Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - noslin

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13
1
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: how to buy a dragster in another state
« on: September 20, 2018, 05:05:44 PM »
personally, id make a trip and look at it.  if they have ever transported it without any bladder under motor i can flex and damage the chassis. just tough to buy a race car without actually checking it out in person.  you can get stung very easily.   if you found someone to transport, it will prob cost about 1200 or more im guessing. whever it is at, see if you can locate someone in that area to go look at it and maybe have them arrange payment. 

Steve at wolfgang has a RED that he would sell.  ask him  how much without the pauter motor, turbo, etc.  idk if he would sale as a roller but worth a try.  its just sitting in his shop.   

2
Wanted to sell / Re: zoomies for hemi
« on: September 17, 2018, 08:42:04 PM »
do you still have these?  if so, do you have a pic?

thank you
dean

4
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: August 29, 2018, 05:53:22 PM »
Dean - maybe keep in mind when designing your sheet metal the couple areas that are more prone to wear and damage, like the front end.  Your future effort to repair or replace a complex design may help select the final shape.
       
For your fire system, running the feed lines and nozzles above the bottom of the adjacent frame rail is required per the nhra rulebook.  Your nozzle placements look like they’ll do suitable job, all located inside the frame rails. 

You’ve probably done this already; suited up with driving shoes/boots on and climbed in/out of the driver’s compartment by yourself to verify the feed lines and nozzles allow unblemished movement.  When activated, the fire bottle(s) must completely discharge, not sure of the force, you could test your nozzles with pressurized water to see the spray pattern and adjust as necessary.
 
When you’re ready to do final feed line and nozzle installations, you might consider a product like this one, or perhaps you already have them or something similar.  Alan

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Piece-Stainless-Steel-Metal-Zip-Ties-Straps-Wrapping-Exhaust-Locking-Pipes/323416367245?hash=item4b4d1e208d:g:kBgAAOSwt~5bg6mh

Thanks Alan for the input, ive jumped in the seat many times but not with suit yet.  i  know that will change things but i htink with the nozzles, i think they will be out of the way of knees and feet.

so, i called Good Vibrations today asking about cable for the fire system.  The person was extremely helpful and got me to re-think how im setting this up.  my plan was to do two seperate systems and pull to activate.  In speaking with the sales person, he pointed out NHRA rule and also noted there are half dozen that he knows who have two seperate systems.  He mentioned one way to get around it is to hook both cables together if asked about it.

the other thing he brought up is to push and not pull.  He mentioned with/when doing the blind-fold test you dont want to be thrashing around trying to find handle to 'pull'.  so, since in the front i have it setup to do a pull from bottle end.  i would have to do same setup on drivers in so it is a push setup; which he pointed out people do set them up this way.

so, dilemma..  first is getting both handles in one spot that isnt in the way while getting in/out of fed.  secondly, building setup to make this a push setup; which is no big deal.. just takes up space.  lastly, maybe just set it up so both fire bottles as per rules and not do separate setup.. 

I understand the premise of having two seperate systems as if one blows you can use your bottle for the other one and save yourself some money not having to fill both bottles.  i guess the road block for me is getting both in one spot thats easily accessible and where i can tie both handles together if need be.  also, enough room to build the cantilever setup at driver end to make a push setup.

on a side note, i asked how much to refill 10lb bottle.  its $130 and recert is $35 per bottle. 

5
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: August 27, 2018, 04:50:26 PM »
I am also quite tall (6'6") and do have some back pain issues. When I had my chassis built (Advanced Chassis, Antwerp, Ohio) I took them a plywood template of my back in the seating position with appropriate lumbar support built in. It is very comfortable.

thats very cool and looks great.  its neat they were able to do the lumbar for you too.  gonna be a fun ride for you. 

6
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: August 26, 2018, 06:21:54 PM »
Mmmm. Nice work, especially love the seat pan, how'd ya do that, in awe.

oh, the chassis builder Bill Comstock did the seat pan.  he was going to use a carbon fiber seat but due to me being so tall he had to make aluminum one.  i think the CF one is 90 deg (guess) from back to seat and i think this one is probably a tad tighter, so the CF wouldnt work or fit correctly.

7
for me, i just cant see paying someone for something that i can do.  I look at it as, we are going to have 'x' amount of money and if we/I pay someone to do the work then thats less money for parts so it takes longer.  whatever the task at hand, it may not turn out as good but i can live with that.  I enjoy the build but while building i want it done so its tough to appreciate it but i guess the appreciation for the work you do is when you step back and say you did it and doesnt look to bad. now, if i had a lot of discretionary income then i would probably pay someone to do the work.

Dean

8
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: August 25, 2018, 09:01:18 PM »
noslin - your sheet metal work nicely done, takes skill for it to look and fit right.  Plus locating dzus fasteners to align front to back and match flow.  Hand crafted foot pedals very different look, was good idea and turned out well.  A+ on tranny purchase, excellent buy waiting for right moment.  Alan

p.s. on dzus placement, I’ve seen some where dzus located such that rear wheel has to be removed to gain access; slight delay removing panel.

Thank you sir for the complements, they are much appreciated.  trying to think/figure out how to do the front end tin.  shaping the nose will be interesting.

so i finished plumbing the fire system in the driver compartment.  i have no idea if it is acceptable or not.  so input would be nice as i can change it.  i put one pointing up at the torque convertor, one down by feet pointing kind of upwards and one at the steering thinking it would get the crotch area and hands; more crotch area.  i have never seen fire system work so im just guessing how the nozzle spray and also guessing what kind of force they may put out which would affect spray pattern.

thank you
Dean














9
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Down force and zoomies
« on: August 22, 2018, 05:20:51 PM »
These are the subjects that interest me with racing and trying to improve performance.  F1 has a lot of good information too.  i was researching different wing design for the vw i had as even though i raised the wing (engine cover actually) i still had rear lift at 160mph even as heavy as it was.  you could see it in the ride height sensor i had on the shock.

anyways, i'd like to stick cannards on my ride as i think it helps with appearance but i have been told they really dont work till over 200 mph.  but when you look at some of the F1 designs or basic premise on the kind of downforce they get i wonder if you could do a design to get downforce at a lesser speed so it is worth while to put them on other then astetic points. 

you look at TF wings (modern wings) and they follow this principle for design somewhat.  its basically just up side down wing.  think of a jet when you take off, there the main wing, the flap and then there is another little one past the flap.    i wonder for slower speeds then 200 if putting another smaller wing above the last one would create some downforce for >200mph


im getting ready to fab up some headers, ill use 45 deg for angle.  i was wondering what angle to set them at. 

ty
dean

10
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Starting Battery Setups/Carts
« on: August 05, 2018, 05:33:57 PM »
im going to use my golf cart as battery supply to start the FED.  no sense in spending a grand when you dont really have too.  i think eventually it would be nice to have a separate kit if needed.. say for starting at home when the cart is in the trailer.

i think on the starters you can throw 48 at them, assuming its a blower type starter.  just makes them spin faster.  i have a chart from the person that built my starter showing starter type, voltage, and rpm. 

dean

11
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: July 06, 2018, 05:22:41 PM »
torque convertor.

when starting this venture, i knew i would have to buy a trans.  so, this was about black-friday time.  i was looking at a few sites and for what i wanted, the trans was going to run about 4300 to 5k depending on whom you purchased from.  its overkill for what im doing but, my thought is in the long run its cheaper to spend the money now instead of going back down the road and upgrading.  also, get something thats has some value, and or if i change my mind and build a door car i have something good to use. 

first i got the trans, i actually scored on it.  BTE runs a 20 percent off for Black Friday week.  at that time the Sportsman trans was like 3400 bucks. i picked it up for 2700 with the discount. same trans year later was 3995.  i dont know why it was 3400 at the time.. but hey, saved me prob 1500 bucks at least.  here is link to trans https://www.bteracing.com/products/BTE074473

so, torque convertor.  i want a bolt together torque convertor for a few reasons.  first, if something happens (blow up trans or ??) i can clean it myself and put it back together.  second, i can get different stators for different power levels or track conditions.. who knows.. and lastly, if i did purchase a TC and it wasnt right i would have to send it back.. spend more money.. then hopefully it would work.

black Friday comes around and im lookin at BTE again becuase of the 20 percent off.. so i get the bolt together torque convertor with additional stator for cost of the convertor if no discount.  stators are only 150 bucks.  the convertor was 2k. one side is aluminum.

i know there are good companies out there like A1 that are good with the info you provide adn setting up convertors for you  and being spot on but this is what i wanted.





12
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: July 06, 2018, 05:09:20 PM »
run stands.

i want/wanted some run stands. eventually ill get some pro-jacks.  but for now the runs stands i think will be clean and safe to use rather then jack stands.

i had some 1 1/8" 062 wall cm tubing from my old car.  i was going to make set of wheelie bars for the old car.  since this was laying around i figured no sense in spending money on say 1" OD tubing so i used it.  now, im a beggineer welder so i figured it would be good opportunity to warp some tubing.. that i did haha.

i made the front one, which didnt turn out too bad.  welds suck but i think it will last a while before they all start to crack.  now i ventured on to make the back one and said, i got this now.. well. i didnt.  my gaps were way to huge, they were grand canyon size.. but i said screw it and plundered on anyways.  well, the back one turned out like crap.  it moved on me and i got so much heat in it it literally warped the top bar.

so, i called up Bill Comstock (a professional) and asked him to make me one for the back haha.  at least no worries of that sucker crackin and causing damage or hurting someone if something did fail in the pits.

here is the front one.  for the back one.. just picture yard art or.... maybe an end table haha.





13
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: July 06, 2018, 05:01:27 PM »
parachute levers.   since the plan is to run 7.0 eventually, i went and put two chutes on anyways.  my delima was the handles and location.  This is what i ended up with for location.   i really would of like to stick this handle setup in but i think if your only pull/pushing one at a time, it might be challenging to do. 


so, here i what i ended up with.  I seen this in Bills A/F FED so i figured id do the same thing.  only will be able to tell how it feels is when you get to actually use them. they are on the left side, ill swipe with right arm.  the right arm is the do-everything arm.  stage, trans-brake, shift, etc



next was to how-to run the p-chute cables.  i ran them so a cable would approach from outside of each bag.  also, (like everything on my fed, i got ideas from others.. so nothing is original lol... disclaimer :D )  i seen this attachment for the cables on the bags and thought it was clean and neat. 












14
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: July 06, 2018, 04:45:54 PM »
thanks all, ill put one on each side of hat if permissable and also i want to do one on the gas pedal too.

for power, just gonna run a dash logger and the transbrake.  so i picked up little 12v battery and made my own battery tray for it.  the solenoid is to provide power when master on/off is turned on. just will have little switch on dash panel.



this is half way down the frame.  i think since im going to do a full body, ill make a bracket to mount to tab and put that up in the foot box area.

the tab welded to the frame is for fuel line mount down the middle.  im waiting for the bigger return line to come in, i get 20' at local steel place and just put male bungs on the end.  ORB's would be nice but more money and idk if it matters.  just that the ID would be bigger too on the ORB type fittings then the bung.  i had 3/8 ID but since half the fuel will be returned i order 1/2" ID alum. tubing.

ill do something similar for hte c02 bottle and mount it on the back.  just need to add a couple tabs in to do this as there is no place to attach the billet clamp too.

15
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: July 05, 2018, 06:31:30 AM »
You should put a lope on the go pedal so that if the return spring ever breaks you can pull the pedal back with you toes?

 :)

Thank you, there is one. The last pic is what's in there now.  I'm wondering though about return spring at pedal and at hat.  I feel pedal could use little help..  is that typical.  Do ppl put return springs both locations or just at hat?

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 13