Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - JrFuel Hayden

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 39
1
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Wheelie bars
« on: May 29, 2019, 09:15:13 PM »
yes I agree Neil & Parks Racing 785-422-8722, in KS
It is a good idea to have it made out chromemoly, at least 5 feet long, with no vertical supports to keep it somewhat flexable so it will not hit the WB so hard it will unload the slicks.
Jon

2
Wanted to buy / Re: wtb pg torque converter
« on: May 29, 2019, 05:10:58 PM »
What size, 7", 8",9",10" I highly recommend A-1 in Washinton they know FED and have built ALL of the JrFuel converters and most of the Comp Elim too.  360-574-9966, Adam or Alan

3
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 27, 2019, 06:26:32 PM »
Bruce, I have built a few tall 21" wheels, with 28" tall tires, that they race full tree classes, Comp Elim, Top Dragster, with legal offset axles, which of course gives them great 60' times, and reaction times, because they are blocking the beams longer. I compared  two cars roll out , one with 17", and one with 21" , the 21" has a 4 1/2 " head start on the start line. No red light because of 3'rd beam problems.
No advantage with a pro lite tree. 
Jon

4
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 26, 2019, 02:48:33 PM »
Bruce, then nobody needs light shields ? Then why when we raced Phoenix did ALL of the cars without shields red light and all that had light shields not red light ?
I witnessed a red light problem at a national event at Vegas with a Comp Elim A/AP when it red lighted without moving [ video] , not even tire wringle, NHRA tested and tried to doublecate, and NHRA decided that a photographer standin shooting at the startline, outside the K rail , was the cause of the flash camera reflecting off his front wheel because the photgrapher was actually shootting his competitor because they left 1'st. That's why NHRA does not allow photos at the start line now. Allan Ellis has since blacked out his wheels. 
How's Dennis Murphy car coming along ?
Jon

5
Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Front suspension
« on: May 25, 2019, 03:00:17 PM »
here is a photo of a FED Woody front indy suspention, from what has been said , "no advantage"
Well my photo is too large to post , so if you are still interested Email me so I have your E address and I can Email the photo
jchansen60@gmail.com

Jon

6
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: GOT MY LICENSE...FINALLY
« on: May 25, 2019, 02:04:25 PM »
Yes , I think 9 lbs is too much, but it also depends on the brand of slicks you run. Call the slick manufacture for pressure suggestions.
M/T seem to like around 7 #, I use mostly 6 # on our JF Goodyear 31x12x15. Keep in mind the 10.5" tires are designed for the 10.5 class 2500-3000+ door cars not FED's, but I know of some teams running well with 10.5 tires like the NHRA Comp Elim points leader now is A/ND [ JrFuel type car] running 6.80's .
You also posted that you hit the wheelie bar a number of times, I have suggessed to a number of FED racers to add ANOTHER 20 lbs on the front end, and they run quicker I think because it will not hit the wheelie bar hard and unload the slicks, plus it may run straighter because you can steer it. Add more weight if you think you need it and then take some of the weight off to get the weight balance where your cars wants.
I know of some teams that run a total of over 100 lbs.  Less if their engine is further away from the rear end.   
What size and brand slicks are you running ?
Jon, 805-444-4489

7
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED & Transbrake
« on: May 25, 2019, 01:43:52 PM »
Wow, Greg, 500 rpm under stall, that would be way too high for us , we stall 8500-8700 with the SBC JF car , but what seems to work good for our car is leaving around 6400 rpm giving us 1.01-1.04 60' times. Keep in mind the higher you launch at the quicker the RT you get.
Again it's all about your combination , Greg you are running a blown alky SBC, running in a breakout class, we are running a 10k rpm injected alky no break-out JF . We need to get some tire spin going at the hit, yours makes more torque because of the blower, and you no-doubt run a 8" tighter converter than my alum light weight 7" converter. I still run a 7" but tighter converter with our Hemi [ more torque].
We shift at 9600-9800 rpm with the SBC, and 9500 with the Hemi.
How high you launch has to do with what RPM the motor comes on at, track prep, tires , tire pressure, rim width.
The other issue is tire shake, I think tire shake is caused by TOO much bite dead hooking then unwiding of the side walls. Too much bite , I let some tire pressure out so the tire works more on the edges of the tire thus reducing the footprint . To check that out I use my temp gun at the turn-out and read temps across the tire, ei hotter on the edges. On our Gooyears we run 5 1/4 to 6 1/4 lbs, depending on track conditions. i have heard as low as 4 3/4 with bead locks on a low torque engine combo. My  GY guy has said that more and more racers are having tire shake issues because the tracks are over preping the tracks [ TOO much VHT] that is why I'm going to try some other tires, like 31x10.5wx15 M/T and M&H. No doubt I'll need to try different tire pressures [ MT like high pressure] launch rpm , and rim widths. 

8
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Learners questions...
« on: May 25, 2019, 12:24:07 PM »
I agree Hoosiers are track temp related, even with my JF Goodyears I will not make a Qualifying pass if the track temp is in the mid to low 50's , it just will spin not even smoke on the buern-out , just spinning.
If you are running NE-1 [ 7.60] NE-2 [8.60] you can run some nitro and some not all teams run nitro. if you are running under 50% no compression ratio change is needed.
Jon

9
Wanted to buy / Re: advanced ET roller
« on: May 25, 2019, 12:16:47 PM »
Justin, I know of a few FED for sale , one is a roller JF car with out engine or powerglide, in Phoenix it has won NHRA Comp and Heritage races.
 I think his engine is out 44" with 225" WB, he also has a trailer that will take a 225 WB car. Also there is a JF roller for sale that will require some work, last time out the air bag under the car broke and some tubing will have to be replaced. I think its 185" WB with the engine location at 44" it was running a Ford so as with any car you get , you'll need motor plate and front mounts. This chassis is in the LA area, last I heard he wants under $5k. In Walnut Creek there is a JF 185"wb roller for sale racing the last two years the engine is 42" out I think.
So call me if any of that is interesting
Jon 805-444-4489

10
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 25, 2019, 12:00:06 PM »
Most of my light shield customers buy them for the starting line, to prevent red lights , the shield gives you a bit more roll-out, and of course with cars with no nose, the front wheels will click the ET stop.
But keep in mind the start line light beems are on the track [lower] and the finish lights are about 3" above the track.
For years we did not run a light shield on our JF car with 18" wheels with low profile tires , 2.00x18, but the rims had a lip , like Akront or Borrani , and we had no issues of red lighting, UNTIL we raced at a Heritage race in Phoenix, where we had a redlight for the 1'st time . When I checked the other JF teams they also had red lights with the cars that did not have light shields , but no red lights with the cars that had light shields. So yes we have been running a light shield since.
When I get a call for light shields I ask if they are having red lights because the front end is jerking the front end up at the hit, if so just add another 20 lbs on the nose, because a light shield will not help if the wheels are pulling out of the start line lights. 
I hope this helps,
Jon 

11
Roo Man's Room / Re: Help....Input on cage modifications
« on: May 20, 2019, 01:25:03 PM »
I agree with Bruce, look for a car that will fit you better. I know of a FED that has a 20 or 21 wide roll cage, and he is 6' 1 or 2" driver weighs 190 ish. It's in Calif turn key with iron SBC that races in NHRA Heritage JrFuel. Wayne will sell with or without engine /trans, and open trailer too.  Call me if you are interested Jon 805-444-4489 or Email jchansen60@gmail.com I also know of another JF in Colorado, another in Phoenix that will fit you.
Jon Hansen, Hayden wheels, and JrFuelDragster Association 

12
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Engine Moisture
« on: May 14, 2019, 12:25:01 AM »
I have no experience with alky carbs, but when I had moisture in my oil I leaned the fuel injection barrel valve. Do the plugs show heat , if not enough lean it down. I think you might be too rich.
The engine temps are in the right range, do you run water in the block, what temp do you stage you car with , I like 180 and then 200-220 at the turn off. Alky runs better with higher engine temps.
We also use a puke tank to vent the engine/crankcase/valve covers, and drain it after every run after we check valve lash every run, in our JrFueler. 
Jon

13
Wanted to sell / Re: airheart front disc brakes
« on: April 27, 2019, 11:27:28 PM »
Jay, if Buddy does not have them anymore, call me 805-444-4489 I have have some.
Jon

14
Jon's Wheel House / Re: D2585 Goodyear 31x12x15, and D1288 GY 33x12x15
« on: April 27, 2019, 11:21:13 PM »
John, do you have the D2585's ? I can'tr get them now.
But to get to your question with me running 10", 11" and 12" rims the width depends on the bite you are looking for . Narrow is good for more MPH because it allows the tire to grow more ,but we changed to 11" and the 12" as we were making more power and need more traction even after the shift. GoodYear says we should not very more the 1" from tire size, but I think no more than 2" .
With our Heritage Jrfuel car we now run 12" but we have tried the M/T 33x10.5w/ 15 on the last set of 11" rims. I'm thinking of selling that wheel tire combo, right now I have too many tires , GY 2585, GY 1288 [ 33x12x15] MH 33x12x15, M/T 31x10.5 [11] x15 and we have not tried MH 31x10.5 [ 11] x15 yet.
Call me if you want more info. 805-444-4489
Jon

15
Jon's Wheel House / Re: slow leak
« on: March 19, 2019, 10:00:52 PM »
I agree with Frenchtown, don't use fix a flat, too messy, but check rim for nicks, etc, and seal the rim , bead to bead, spray paint might work,  I have used this trick to seal alum wheels that were leaking thru the casting.
Also check to see if any flashing is on the tire, if so trim it. Sometimes I have to trim flashing to get the bead to fully bead up on wire spoke wheels.
I assume you are finding the leak by dipping the wheel/tire in water.

Jon

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 39