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Messages - Curly1

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31
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: stage rpm vs stall and wheel speed
« on: November 24, 2019, 03:18:21 PM »
Never going to know until you get out and run it. depends on stall, power curve, tune up, weather etc.

32
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Not seeing any gains !
« on: October 28, 2019, 01:45:05 PM »
I do think the Nitro gains would be at lower RPM and tighter stall may help with that. With your motor turning lower RPM than it was before I suspect something else may be going on. What kind of injection you have?

33
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Bent chassis
« on: October 19, 2019, 06:59:44 PM »
With those bars so close together and no uprights and diagonals it is going to be very flexible.

34
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fed build design ?
« on: September 08, 2019, 07:09:43 PM »
Iím not to big, 5-5 170, whatís the reason for shoulder hoop width?

Build it as big and wide as you can, you can always use extra padding to raise you up but if cage is too small you can not ever sell it unless they are smaller than you. I am 5'11" and I built my dragster to fit anyone up to 6'3" or maybe more. If you are 5'5" and you build it to only fit you then you would never be able to give the car away. And you need room for padding, helmet clearance.

35
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fed build design ?
« on: September 05, 2019, 02:00:58 PM »
If you are limiting it to 150 inches or so then I would say drop the idea of a front engine dragster and go with an altered roadster. You can make a good altered really work but I think it would be difficult to make a 150 inch dragster work in the 7's. Not impossible but would be a pain. Buy or build a Spitzer type design and it would work.

36
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Top Fuel car in wall
« on: August 22, 2019, 06:29:17 PM »
That was a really nice car. Hope you get it back together soon.

37
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: August 21, 2019, 04:52:18 PM »
Chris, you got a trailer now have you ran the car yet?

38
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel tank to fuel pump elevation
« on: July 22, 2019, 10:59:10 AM »
The pump can draw fuel up some but you do want to make it easy as possible.  I think it is always difficult to make a MFI system start nice and clean on alcohol. They are touchy, too much alcohol it floods and does not want to start. Same if there is not enough fuel. Mechanical injection dumps a lot of Fuel at low RPM because it does not have pump shot. And alcohol is harder to start in colder weather. Mine runs better when motor is hot but is harder to start. So you are trying to get the right fuel mixture to get it started and run.

39
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 12:44:25 PM »
I also agree with very tight seat belts but that is on any car I drive.

As for consistency my dragster is good now that I have got most of the bugs worked out.  The problem is the shut down area on most tracks that is not an issue with all the other cars I have drove.

40
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 11:14:28 AM »
There are a lot of tracks around here with rough or short shut down areas. Not worth crashing the car. My dragster is actually much stiffer than it was originally and still very flexible and it does not take much to make it bounce in the shut down due to flex. In fact some of the tracks I raced in my altered never even thought of the shut down area or noticed how rough it was. Same track in my dragster was a handful. Using parachute helps but who wants to do that every time?

41
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 07:24:38 AM »
Plus a FED is flexible and the chassis will not last for as many passes as a stiffer suspended car. Note we are not talking about a short, slow FED here.  When you start running low 5's or faster then you need to get that chassis to working or suspension. An altered, a door car, funny car or even suspended dragster has a stiffer chassis and will last much longer. With all of the flexing a 225 inch FED has it going to break uprights, welds and stuff. And if it does not flex it probably is not going to work good. On a fast car it is hard to get chassis, tire, weight balance and everything working together right. Tire selection on a suspended car is very forgiving. On a FED it is not and I do not I do not know about you but I do not have $750 a pop to try 10 different tires to find right one that works. The MT 3074 tire was best tire ever on my altered.  Does not work good on dragster at all. Same rear gear, same motor, same transmission and almost same weight yet does not work good. Luckily I have a good data logger to help me narrow down the problem.

I also agree the FED is cool and while RED 4 link dragster may be best tool  for bracket racing I have no desire what so ever for one.

You can bracket race a FED but you will find it is much more of a pain in the tail. Unless your car was running something like 6 in the 1/8 mile or slower. The faster you go the harder it is going to be to make it work (unless you know someone who has already got a really good combo and closely copy it) even then they are not the same. My altered was just as fast and it was fun and easy to bracket race and I did not need any help to do it. My dragster is a whole different animal and I do not bracket race it. Too much of a pain and no fun. I think you will quickly tire of bracket racing it. But to answer your question. Yes, you could.

42
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 06:44:04 AM »
It has taken a year to get my FED to working good and it still is not as good as my 4 link altered was. Plus the FED really is a pain to load and unload, race etc. The 4 link altered handles much better in shut down are and stops better. There are several tracks around here that I simply can not run the dragster. The altered had no problems. The altered stopped much better than the dragster because it had front brakes but more importantly does not flex / bounce like the dragster does. So you really should throw out parachute every pass. That is not good for a bracket racer. You want to make it simple for one man to race.

You certainly can bracket race it but you will find it is much harder than a door car or 4 link car and that takes a lot of fun out of it. Much more like work and if it is any where near as hot there as it is here you do not want to make it any harder than you have to.

43
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fabricated Fuel Injector
« on: June 18, 2019, 07:52:37 AM »
That is really nice trailer. I like that it is kind of Old School with new design and technology. Impressive and I really like that is was designed to be easy to use.

44
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Rear End Coupler question
« on: June 05, 2019, 11:57:07 AM »
Thanks guys, I am probably going to use a combination of your ideas.

45
Front Engine Dragsters / Rear End Coupler question
« on: June 04, 2019, 08:18:37 PM »
I have a Front Engine dragster with long tail shaft powerglide. Last year I had a wooden dowel in the yoke to keep the yoke to the correct depth in the pinion nut. That was not a good solution because you have to pull motor out to change transmission or converter. With the dowel in there you can not slide the yoke forward in the transmission so that means motor and midplate have to come out.

 So this year I put two slip collars on the yoke to hold it to correct depth but it has damaged the transmission seal. Loosen the slip collars, slide yoke up in transmission then you can lift transmission out the top.

So is there any good solutions that can make it easy to remove transmission and will not hurt the seal?

A friend told me someone used to make a pinion nut for coupler that had a snap ring type deal to hold the coupler in place while running. Then to remove transmission take out snap ring, push yoke forward and then you can easily take out tranny.  I have not been able to find such animal?

Mark Williams and Strange both have a quick connect yoke pinion deal but they both said the ONLY work on SHORTY transmissions.  Mark Williams said my only options are put a dowel in the yoke or change transmission to a shorty, new planitaries and then use their funny car drive shaft. That would make it fairly easy to remove transmission but would cost about $2000 and would take a lot of time. Plus I would have to fabricate a large two piece drive shaft cover over it.

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