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Messages - Dunc the Funk

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16
Altereds / Re: Ran our first seven!
« on: September 18, 2019, 02:39:07 PM »
Nothing wrong with the tank breather in it's normal function letting air in, but it has a rollover valve that pressure inside will hold shut - just as if it were upside down.

Backing it down sounds like a good idea.

17
Altereds / Ran our first seven!
« on: September 17, 2019, 01:58:21 PM »
Team Thundergod just had a crazy weekend. On Friday the car wouild not start at all (see previous threads re poor starting). Eventually we realised it could only be the fuel pump so we borrowed one & it fired up right away. Ran it but it was so fat because the pump was delivering way more fuel that we only did a couple of 9 second passes. I finally got the tune more or less back on track & we went 7.98 @ 169. Still way rich! We were hoping for a better final pass as I had leaned it a bit more but I made a mistake by filling the tank to the brim with the system still full of fuel, then leaving it in the hot sun for half an hour. Fuel must have pushed into the cylinders, it would barely turn over let alone fire & we missed our chance.

Video from Santa Pod Raceway:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2451364821773018&id=100006985711150

18
Altereds / Re: What did you do on your Altered TODAY?
« on: September 10, 2019, 03:15:37 PM »
Aaaaaand then I found some cracks in both axle tubes near the ends. Driver is taking car away tomorrow to get a proper welder buddy & fellow racer to weld it up on Thursday.

Assuming that's fixed, we are towing to the track either Thursday pm or Friday am. RWYB on Friday, our class is running Saturday & Sunday at the NSRA 'Hot Rod Drags' at Santa Pod.

I might even get to do my first burnout / trundle down the track on Friday if I can prise the driver out of the seat & convince him I'm not going to break it.

19
Altereds / Re: What did you do on your Altered TODAY?
« on: September 08, 2019, 02:36:06 PM »
Today the driver & I added some more padding to the roll cage so that after the hit he is still looking down the track & not at the sky.

Also I treated the slicks with 'Grip' softener, at the last event there was not much traction & we are still looking to run our first 7 next weekend.

20
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hat nozzle type and starting issue
« on: September 02, 2019, 01:25:02 AM »
Regarding the starting problem, we got a Wurth pump-up spray bottle on the recommendation of lots of other teams in our class. It's easier to maintain a constant stream of fuel directly at the butterfly crack. Even then it it's surprising how much fuel we needed. The other teams were using gasoline so went to that. 5 secs full pressure spray direct on the rotors, 3 secs in each outer hole too, crank it, ignition on then absolutley p*** it on the crack & away it went, problem solved. Phew. Best run of the weekend (of only 3) with 26 degrees timing we went 8.35 @ 155, driver shut off before the line as it was drifting toward the mirrors. Now we just got to figure out why we are losing traction mid-track which caused the other two runs to be aborted.

21
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hat nozzle type and starting issue
« on: August 10, 2019, 01:44:25 PM »
Thanks for replies.
Car has onboard starter & it cranks just fine.
It's not currently rich at idle. I've adjusted air & fuel it so it idles about 1500rpm & it's fairly lean, it surges a bit but responds to the throttle well.
As I'm sure you know, butterfly clearance & barrel valve leakdown are great for setting a baseline but once it's running then it's best to tune it.
The butterflies are currently at 8 thou, I just checked. This is fairly tight because the injector is too big for the application (buzzard).
We used to prime with gas but went to 50% gas, 50% methanol this year. Have also started it on 100% methanol this summer.
As for using a clip to increase butterfly opening, it was Matsuda Racing though I can't find the vid that clearly shows what he does.
If it gets established on the bottle then it only takes a few seconds for the pump to pull the fuel through, but it often quits before this happens (it goes crank crank - on - Raah! phlut, crank crank - on - Raah! phlut). It often spits back a bit when it quits.
As our tank breather is mounted above the level of the shutoff valve, at the next meeting I am going to remove the line from the shutoff & top the tank off with a small funnel at the breather fitting until fuel comes out of the shutoff. Then I know the pump is full of fuel which will be better than having it running dry & trying to suck as the tank is quite low.
So no-one thinks the hat nozzle type makes a difference at startup? I heard they were supposed to give better atomisation?

22
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hat nozzle type and starting issue
« on: August 10, 2019, 05:24:13 AM »
I'm the one that does the priming, I give it a good squirt, driver cranks it til it puffs then I signal to put ignition on, it always fires but often cuts while I am trying to feed it. We did borrow a pump-up spray bottle from another team for the last two runs we did & that seems easier as you can keep spraying the butterflies much easier.

I wonder if the hole in our priming bottle is too big? When it was cold at the end of last season we were priming with gas & if it didn't go in a couple of tries the plugs would be fouled.

Also, do people sometimes use a feeler gauge size clip to hold the butterflies open a little further til it fires? I'm sure I've seen that done on Youtube.

23
Spud Miller's Cave / Hat nozzle type and starting issue
« on: August 09, 2019, 01:32:33 PM »
Hiya
Our motor has been difficult to start, it always fires after priming but will often die either immediately or while you are feeding it on the bottle. Once on the pump it runs fine.
Inspecting it recently I noticed that the hat nozzles are the non-ported type. Would having the single hole ported type help with starting?

24
Altereds / Re: First full pass on current combo at last!
« on: July 20, 2019, 03:35:25 AM »
Thanks, checking motor over this weekend, compression is good, all around 160psi cranking (don't have a leakdown tester), if oil looks good probably just re-torque heads then ready for next meeting. I think I'll richen it up a little & put timing up to 32.

It's been hard work all year, we had some safety improvements on the chassis & cage which were delayed from January to early April, we had new rear end gears, new coilovers, cam dowel issue, spotted that the engine 'builder' had fitted offset lifters in the wrong positions (!), found a cracked lifter, I broke the powerglide front pump and also the park mechanism had been incorrectly fitted, there were metal shavings in the box & park was close to not working at all but fortunately no other damage. Also it's been really hard to start, it was firing then dying really quickly with a normal bottle no matter what you did (maybe the nozzle was too big?). Removing the legacy start retard helped a bit but we're getting a pump up sprayer as quite a few teams here use them. Control of delivery is much better, I borrowed one for the last two runs.

Incidentally, if you look at all the video & the others from the event, you will see Roland Leong, the Venom nostalgia F/C team got him to come over & help with the tune. My favourite classes are Nostalgia Super Stock, Outlaw Anglia (some are in the 7s) & NFC though not many of them performed well this weekend. And our class, Supercharged Outlaws of course! There's a lot of very slow bikes which are genuine period pieces, interesting but hardly exciting spectating.

25
Altereds / First full pass on current combo at last!
« on: July 19, 2019, 11:54:39 AM »
Exactly a year on from our first meeting with our 'new' combo we finally, after a weekend of frustration, got her down the track under power all the way. The driver pedalled slightly off the line to a 1.33 60', 5.67 @ 137 at the 1/8th but it really charged after half track to 8.40 @ 184mph! We were hoping for 7.7 / 7.8 @ 170 ish but what the hey, looks like we could run 7.3s sometime soon! This was with only 30 degrees of timing! I think it leaned out at the big end, plug plating was burnt just up to 1st thread. Check out this video, we're on at 22 mins, LH lane, you can see me start the motor & on the line.


26
Altereds / Re: What did you do on your Altered TODAY?
« on: July 10, 2019, 03:39:52 PM »
So we have got loaded up ready to tow to the 'Dragstalgia' event at Santa Pod, UK. After fixing an engine problem we discovered two gearbox issues, both now fixed & we're ready to rock.

27
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Can you ID our converter?
« on: July 07, 2019, 12:59:21 AM »
Thank you!

28
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Can you ID our converter?
« on: July 06, 2019, 08:39:05 AM »
We got our converter second hand with the motor & I'm trying to find some info on it. I don't know the manufacturer but it has this stamped on it:
829 B14XLS +1/4 A1014135. It's about 10.5" diameter. Obviously the +1/4 is the extra lug thickness for the motor plate but that's all I can say.
When the car launches, rpm goes to about 5k immediately. I've searched mainly with the B14XLS part but drawn a blank. Any idea on the manufacturer to start with?

29
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Lost cam dowel - what to do?
« on: May 31, 2019, 12:07:35 PM »
That is a very good idea! Cheers.

30
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Lost cam dowel - what to do?
« on: May 31, 2019, 09:05:39 AM »
So I got a new Chevy cam dowel. It is an interference fit in the cam & about 0.25".

However what I did not notice before is that the cam hub dowel hole is bigger, a 6.5mm drill shank fits perfectly. Also the distributor/fuel pump drive spud dowel hole is even bigger, a 7mm drill fits that snugly. So the standard dowel would not achieve very much.

My plan is to drill & ream all the holes to 7mm if the hub is not too hard. If it is I will ream the cam only to 6.5mm. Then I will either buy dowel to fit or cut off a piece of drill shank to use.

Nothing ever seems straightforward in my life...

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