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Messages - dreracecar

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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Power+weight+time.
« on: January 19, 2019, 05:00:58 PM »
These days  Engine angle has zero affect unless you were way out of the park to begin with. Engine angle is the result of the relationship to how far the motor is out from the rear end to the front oil pan clearence. We are raising the front of the motor these days so that you dont tear up the diaper.  Building a new chassis right now, motors out 55" and the crank snout is 10" of the deck, I dont care what the motor angle is

weight divided ET3 ( et x et x et) X 197.14

 So if the car weighs   1750# / 636 ( 8.60 ET3)  =  2.75
 2.75 x 197.14  =  542 HP

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 19, 2019, 11:21:25 AM »
old school

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 19, 2019, 08:48:36 AM »
current mild steel tubing wall is undersize for the spec and will not pass if the car must be stickered

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 17, 2019, 09:24:23 AM »
It was a Mickey Thompson dragmaster chassis!and it belongs to Dave Huber Rooman knows his stuff! Could you build that chassis and have it NHRA legal? If wearing y'all with these questions I appologize but appreciate the input

  Best to get in touch with the NHRA Chassis tech inspector for your area to answer that question before moving forward. He will guide you since the design you are after is not shown in the SFI spec book and you may be restricted to 10sec or slower

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 16, 2019, 03:50:46 PM »
You can go online to Aircraft Spruce and look at there tubing charts for material. Good prices and consider you basicly buy by foot so you dont have to buy the full length--only what you need, They have a east coast outlet in Georgia. A 225" SFI spec car Im doing now , I have about $1000 in tubing

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 16, 2019, 11:53:18 AM »
I'm going to try and look at some cars when spring rolls around but I don't that I would fit in most used cars 50 inch chest and all shoulders most cars you see are built for small people for some reason???

  Along those lines you might be better suited for an altered as they tend to be wider, Dragsters now run around 19.5 inside between the shoulders and altereds around 23"-24" between the tubes. It has to do with the body/looks of the dragster. To get a good look, you dont want so much taper from the shoulders to the motor plate because it will look like a slice of moms apple pie, an altereds body hides it

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Chute weight.
« on: January 15, 2019, 08:20:45 AM »
ordering a double cheezburger with a diet coke

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 15, 2019, 08:16:48 AM »
Mild steel is a pain to use and has low resale value. Its heavy, some wall thickness does not meet spec, takes longer to fit. Legal CM telescopes together so it can be sleeved and step down in size. The only real disadvantage of Moly to the home builder is that it must be Tig welded and not wire feed so your fitment must be exelint and not just close. Mild also moves around a bunch when welding, if you dont understand the welding sequince , it will be bent before you put the car together and in a dragster the motor to rear end aliginmet MUST be dead on;
 You want a budget car, buy used, its around .35 on the dollar spent. Its gets you out there quickly and you will discover likes and dis-likes to help you plan on your next build. Two things to remember--- Get fully suited up and see if you fit (minor adjustments if needed) and make sure there is an SFI tag on it, the tag can be out of date which is fine because you know it still can be tagged

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Chute weight.
« on: January 14, 2019, 03:07:41 PM »
Reaction times are extremely important, but how can they help your ETs?

 ET is not that important if you get to the finish line first

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 14, 2019, 11:42:31 AM »
With that combo, plenty of Mopar 8 3/4's out there, small-cheap- easy to work on, The car will weigh in at around 1500#, no need for a gynormas and heavy rear end. Although a 9" is popular, its still on the side of overkill and not cheap to build

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Chute weight.
« on: January 14, 2019, 11:34:52 AM »
There are more track variables out there that will alter ET's then would a pound or so in a chute pack. Drop the weight and work on RT's  those 2 things cost nothing and have the most impact

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Power+weight+time.
« on: January 10, 2019, 04:19:22 PM »
My car weighs with driver 1650# and I run in 7.0Pro index class and usually hit the number. I dont have the time or money for dyno time to get HP figures, And that about how "real world" I get

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Intake design with MFI
« on: January 10, 2019, 08:43:11 AM »
with injection (alc-nitro) its more important to get the fuel delivery as close to the intake valve as possable, Air is Air and not that critical on how it gets there. Port air volume decreses the further away from the intake valve you get

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Power+weight+time.
« on: January 10, 2019, 08:32:12 AM »
Weight divided by ET3 (cubed)  X 197.14 = HP

 1650# / 343 (7x7x7) = 4.81
 4.81 X 197.14 = 948 HP

  Rough terms is that is how much HP is needed to move that weight 1320' in that amount of time

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