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Messages - BK

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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: MSD retard
« on: May 16, 2018, 06:49:02 PM »
There is a complete Grid set up for sale locally here for $600.00. Includes the Grid controller the the Ignition box and the coil.
If interested look up brandon iamele on face book.

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: purifying oil
« on: May 03, 2018, 05:07:28 PM »
When I tried cooking it it seemed to take forever but it worked.
When refrigeration guys install refrigerant lines they pull a vacuum on them to remove the moisture. And it takes a while.
I wonder if that would work with the oil in say a pressure cooker pot? Something that wouldn't cave in under vacuum.
It would remove the risk of fire if it would work.

Tow Vehicles / Re: Tire sizes and towing
« on: April 15, 2018, 04:32:03 AM »
If its a relatively short tow they probably wouldn't matter that much. If its a daily driver or extended tow I would think too short.
Also check the load rating. If they have a lighter rating they may not be a bargain anyways.

Altereds / Re: TH400 in an Altered
« on: March 25, 2018, 01:51:33 PM »
 I tried looking at Promods as a lot of them use 400s. It was hard to say for sure but I think they have rear mounts. I wouldnt worry about adding one if you decide to, my Spitzer Altered has a solid rear trans mount that doubles as the engine limiter. No breakage issues. I dont think you get a lot of flex with an Altered.

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Safety equipment...
« on: February 17, 2018, 01:25:15 AM »
 I'm not big on the big box stores but I know of an instance where a helmet was bought through Summit Racing and they paid all the shipping on 3 returns to get the one he liked.

 Question 1. With the engine you mention you should be able to get it to run sub 10 seconds. So the first thing I would do is contact whoever does chassis certification in your area and have him go over it. Check tubing thickness and placement to make sure what you have will pass without changing the entire cockpit area. Our guy only charged me when he put a sticker on not for a precertification inspection.
 Question 2,3 and 4. You will find in a rule book. If you put it together to meet the NHRA rule book you will meet IHRA also as it has a little bit tougher requirements.
 Question 5. The hoop is a big handle. If the engine was in the correct location you could use the rear tire to help you get in.
 Question 6.Oil pressure, water temp and Tach. would be minimum gauges for me. You could lose the Tach. with an auto shifter of some sort. But they are still nice for setting idle.
 Question 7. Where ever you can reach them and get in and out without getting caught up on them. I like to use relays and switch as much stuff as i can with the fewest switches.
 A lot of older cars like yours the shifter was on the floor just in front of seat. Make sure you have all your safety stuff on including arm restraints when checking.
 Question 8. No

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Cylinder/Ring Wear Issue
« on: October 25, 2017, 01:13:00 PM »
Could the ring issues be from the piston cocking in the bore like it does?

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: ceramic bearings
« on: October 16, 2017, 03:42:15 AM »
I thought you were going bracket racing. Save the money change the dial.

Jon's Wheel House / Radial vs Bias
« on: September 28, 2017, 01:35:49 PM »
Is there a reason we don't run radial slicks on dragsters and altereds?
Or do we run bias ply because that's what we have always run?

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hilborn stack idle problems
« on: September 27, 2017, 08:54:43 PM »
 Usually the pressure you check at is higher than the secondary setting so you need block it off.

Roo Man's Room / Re: How much ballast needed on a 60's FED?
« on: September 11, 2017, 01:56:44 PM »
 My FED had a short glide with a coupler direct to the rear but was 175" WB and had similar problem.
 I did get it to launch with about 60#s up front and set the wheelie bars to roll some weight to the right. Worked OK.
 I tried as much as 11/2# difference left to right in air pressure on Scott Wenys recommendation. It helped but not enough.
 I was bracket racing it and low ET wasn't my main priority so the thing that worked best was to put a pneumatic cylinder with a needle valve to slow the opening rate of the throttle a little. I lost 1 tenths in 60' and 2 at the finish line but it was deadly consistent. Still needing the weight and wheelie bar also.
 It would go 1.14 to 1.18 60s at 8.45 to .50 inconsistently with out the cylinder and 1.24 at 8.63 with.

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Tuning Help
« on: August 11, 2017, 08:41:59 AM »
How about a nozzle right above that cylinder in the Blower case just below the rotors?

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Tuning Help
« on: August 06, 2017, 07:18:58 PM »
Look up Moroso 26100 Distributor Timing Indicator

Roo Man's Room / Re: Keep push bar or not?
« on: July 29, 2017, 03:57:10 AM »
I left mine on my car.
Its mounted where the down tube meets the lower frame rail that loops around the seat.
I doubt I could ever get the wheelie bars folded up and still have enough energy to cave that area of the chassis in.
Now a broken rod end on the upper wheelie bar strut. That might be something to think about.

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hilborn stack idle problems
« on: July 19, 2017, 01:37:51 PM »
 Secondary bypass is OPEN from idle to about 20 deg. of opening. You primary bypass and idle will generally be the same. Containing a spring loaded check for idle pressure and your main bypass jet or pill. The secondary should by a spring check set significantly higher than your idle check maybe 25 lbs or so.

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