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Messages - dreracecar

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1
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: June 14, 2019, 08:51:26 AM »
Like anything in our world,  if you see it and don't buy it , you will never see another one for sale, If you do buy it, 2 more will show up in a week for less money

2
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Mickey Thompson 10.5
« on: June 05, 2019, 11:21:49 AM »
I know that with Goodyears, the half size (.5) is a door car tire and plants different and does not grow like a "COMP"( .0) tire size that plants and grows because they were designed for a lighter car

3
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Rear End Coupler question
« on: June 05, 2019, 08:07:50 AM »
Machine a aluminum cup with an ID step to press against the shell portion of the seal but not touch the seal material itself and the hole slightly larger then the coupler shaft. A good fit and set screw to hold the cup in place. Before you install the coupler into the trans slide a needle-bearing thrust washer onto it that way you don't have straight metal to metal contact with the coupler split clamp to "cup".  You will have to take tail housing and chuck in a lathe to turn that area round

4
Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Front suspension
« on: June 04, 2019, 03:44:39 PM »
The reaction of an altered is different then a  100" longer solid dragster. I can put a jack in the middle of a ridged dragster and lift the frame before the wheels come up or I can grab one front wheel and lift it up before the other one moves.  Chassis stiffness allows the suspension to operate otherwise chassis flex negates the action and the only thing it does is add weight -cost-wind resistence (outboard shocks).

  Too many inconsistencys track to track, are the racers willing to spend the time-effort-money to re-spring and re-valve the shocks or do they just run as received from the builder in the limited time they have during the race. The 4 link cars Ive worked on, the racers have never done the work to see if a change made a difference, just assumed it did because they spent the money for it. How can you make changes without putting the car on scales. Maybe that's what a consumet traveling pro racer does with his car, keeps extensive logs. and has a parts inventory, but as a hobby once a month racer, don't expect it to change a thing from a solid chassis

5
Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Front suspension
« on: June 04, 2019, 08:40:21 AM »
I can't speak for websites, but around the Midwest many, many S/P and T/D REDs have upgraded their chassis(s?) with front suspension to keep their wheels in the beams regardless of track conditions. The most popular upgrade seems to be the "rocker arm" style which is nearly invisible under the bodywork, save for the slotted openings for the front axle to move up-n-down - maybe an inch of compression and rebound.


  I thought the whole point was to react and get out of the beams as quickly as possible.  At the hit--- if the front is rising^^^^^, its not going forward>>>>>>

  Racers and builders are a copy-cat/monkey see-monkey do lot, I could win a big race with some rubber dog poop glued to the nose and at the next event there will be others , although it might be made out of carbon fibre or machined Ti.  No Chassis shop wants to build a second place chassis-- if somethings works, they all will produce it


  You can pick and chose however you want to build your car, many ideas out there -good/bad/indifferent.  soft-tail to ridged , front suspension or solid, fully suspended or rock hard, Until it reaches the point where a solid car cannot win anymore, there is no advantage.  It also could come to a point that the solid car gets phased out due to the desire for suspended chassis's as a perceived "next best thing" and not because of an advantage

6
Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Front suspension
« on: June 01, 2019, 03:13:56 PM »
A few years ago there were a few  RED's around running Strange's altered struts.    More recently there was a builder with a swing arm or link type straight axle front end.  The selling point was the ability to keep the front tires on the ground at the launch .  The reasoning behind it is that it would help starting line  consistency  in bracket type rear engine cars that would occasionally and sometimes frequently (depending on xxxx near everything and anything) quickly pop the front tires off the ground and set them back down again almost immediately causing erratic red lights and/or reaction times.

Are you looking to solve an existing problem?


  If it worked, they would still be around today and the question would not have to be asked.  add the same amount of weight all that stuff weighs to the front and it would keep the front end down too and for much much cheaper

Who said it doesn't work?  There's still guys running them and building them today.  Serious bracket racers put more miles on their dragsters in a season than you will in five years and frequently race for serious money.  They're likely to have tried a lot of things to solve their problems and this clearly works for some of them.  Most of these cars have so much stuff on them that they already have a ton of front weight on them and shuffling weight doesn't always have the effect that it does on a lightweight  car.

  Show me a current chassis builders website that offers a front suspension for a rear motor DRAGSTER frame

7
Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Front suspension
« on: May 31, 2019, 05:19:50 PM »
A few years ago there were a few  RED's around running Strange's altered struts.    More recently there was a builder with a swing arm or link type straight axle front end.  The selling point was the ability to keep the front tires on the ground at the launch .  The reasoning behind it is that it would help starting line  consistency  in bracket type rear engine cars that would occasionally and sometimes frequently (depending on xxxx near everything and anything) quickly pop the front tires off the ground and set them back down again almost immediately causing erratic red lights and/or reaction times.

Are you looking to solve an existing problem?


  If it worked, they would still be around today and the question would not have to be asked.  add the same amount of weight all that stuff weighs to the front and it would keep the front end down too and for much much cheaper

8
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Lost cam dowel - what to do?
« on: May 31, 2019, 11:26:10 AM »
The drive hub hole is always larger for manufacturing tolerances , but it should not be a thru hole , just a pocket to keep the dowel from coming out.  rotate drive hub and spot face another pocket, do not drill through. Make sure the cam dowel does not stick out too far.  The dowel is just a gear locator so that installation is always the same, the bolts do all the work

9
Rear Engine Dragsters / Re: Front suspension
« on: May 31, 2019, 08:10:11 AM »
not worth the effort and expense since the driver is along the centerline of the car,  now offset  the drive as in a door car and suspension is a must


10
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: May 28, 2019, 08:14:07 AM »
Very nice

  However, the only issue I have based on the SFI spec here in the States is that the rear end uprite and the mount that is welded to it must go the full length of the uprite and also welded to the upper and lower framerails. A short tab mount like what is shown will not pass chassis cert over here by the rules

11
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 28, 2019, 08:05:45 AM »
You lose consistency with off-set unless you stage very shallow or go in deep. If there is no index/breakout, shallow to qualify (run at the tree) and deep for race (to shorten the track).  60' times will differ on cars with overhang vs cars without even if the both leave the line at exactly the same moment. Reaction times are the function of the driver only (in the type of cars we run) If the driver is a consistent .123 light, there is nothing on the car(providing the car is set up properly) that can be adjusted to change that

12
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Lost cam dowel - what to do?
« on: May 27, 2019, 03:00:14 PM »
45# on a .250 bolt has already stretched it

13
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 27, 2019, 01:44:25 PM »
Some tracks use 3 to deal with offset front ends, pass thru the guard beam while still in the regular start line beam and the tree goes red. If your track only uses 2 beams (pre-stage and stage) then blowing thru the stage beam early will go red

14
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 27, 2019, 09:59:07 AM »
There is 2" of tire above the track surface before the rim edge, add another 3/4" before the light disc starts, So in no way does the disc have any effect with todays starting systems with the beams mounted so close to the racing surface. As to why there was a problem in PHX.? don't know  maybe the extra weight of the disc kept the front end down longer??? but its the 3rd (guard beam) photo cell that determinds red lights

15
Jon's Wheel House / Re: Light shields
« on: May 25, 2019, 02:38:16 PM »
Jon--- stage inferaed beams are on the deck(or close to it)and the old photo-cells were a little higher (but had shields to lower the beams) so the light guard has no influence on roll-out using a standard wheel/tire combo.  Down track timers are 6" up from the track, a 12" square foam block has the reflector in the middle, so covering the spokes of a car without O-H, increases the target area for the beam.  We had an issue at one track where the sun was at the right angle where the refection bounced off the rim and into the beam causing it not to register. The other guy was pissed at us for trying to burn him down, but it was just one of those things, we were well past the line and the stage lights never came on

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