Messages

61

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Some basic simple questions

« on: May 08, 2018, 10:07:43 AM »

I've owned & raced 3 feds in the past along with my current altered and none of them had a rear trans mount. They all had a front motor plate and block plate for support and all worked fine. My view is that having 3 attachment points, front and block plate and rear mount, puts more stress on the trans if there is any frame flex when power is applied. At that point, the aluminum trans case would be the weak link and the first to fracture. Wouldn't want that happening down between my feet and legs:)

62

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: A New look....

« on: May 07, 2018, 08:41:46 PM »

"now to run it". The best part of the deal:) Enjoy.

63

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Ed Mabry 71 Jr. Fuel

« on: May 07, 2018, 08:39:22 PM »

Nice trailer, looks like the operation is coming together.

64

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Some basic simple questions

« on: May 07, 2018, 08:36:42 PM »

Looking good:)

65

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Basic 355 combo

« on: March 31, 2018, 09:12:43 AM »

As you can see, a lot of different ideas and views here. That's good because it exposes you to all the ins and outs of making your car work. Once you get it running, I'm sure you'll be just like the rest of us and will make it go quicker & faster! Because you have so many parts already, just consider putting a cam in the block you have now, bolting the top end on you own, putting some gas in the tank and make some passes. You can always go alky later if you choose. Just be sure and take 10 or 15 gallons of water with you for cooling when using gas. Back in the late 70's my altered and feds all ran on gas and the cooling was a bit of a pain in the ass but it worked. After a run I'd pick up the chute and open the water drain petcocks on the block and then let it drain. Let it finish draining in the pits and then let it sit and cool for 20 minutes. Then filled it with warm water from 5 gallon containers setting in the sun on the roof of the trailer to avoid shocking the iron. Took about 30 minutes turn-around time as I recall. That was with an all iron big block but it worked for us. BTW The custom radiator built for my current altered, the water pump, the hoses and fitting along with the water fill manifold came to a little over $1k. It's worked very well so far, we'll see how it works in a couple of months when I double the horsepower and the additional heat that goes along with it.

66

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Basic 355 combo

« on: March 30, 2018, 08:25:10 AM »

I think that cam looks like a good pick. I'd suggest using no more than the required spring pressure with the flat tappet and break it in correctly. And I think you're right, you'll probably start running out of power just before the finish line because of the limited intake port area and compression. But that won't hurt a thing, by the time you feel it, you're on the brakes anyway:)

67

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Ed Mabry 71 Jr. Fuel

« on: March 29, 2018, 09:25:31 PM »

That's Gary's old car, I always liked the paint job. Enjoy:)

68

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Basic 355 combo

« on: March 29, 2018, 01:27:38 PM »

Looking at your combination of weight, gear,tire diameter, and an engine like yours making 400-425 hp, car should run the eighth mile in about 5.70 seconds at about 120 mph. Give or take. That's puts your finish line engine speed at about 6300-6400 rpm.
With that said, use your rpm heads, the savings in weight will offset any hp gain from increased compression from a smaller chamber. And you already have them.
Since your are using zoomies and aren't killing the engine with rpms, there might not be a big difference with cam timing. Since you will get no inertia scavenging or wave scavenging as collector headers would give you above maybe 5000rpm, I'd suggest giving the cam at least a 108*lsa and at lease 6 more degrees duration on the exhaust as compared to the intake. That will cause the exhaust valve to open earlier to aid in clearing the exhaust gas out and it will minimize the valve overlap to help defeat exhaust reversion into the intake manifold. Invest in a good torque convertor that stalls about 4000-4500 rpm and see what happens.
Most of all, get it running and enjoy!

69

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Dripper for warm up

« on: March 17, 2018, 10:03:50 PM »

Gravity feed, no details.

70

Wanted to buy / Re: WTB/ Period correct Rear end

« on: February 23, 2018, 02:37:02 PM »

Here's some pictures of a Winters non-quick change rear-end in a fed. It might be to bulky for your needs but it does have that appearance of an early banjo rear-end on steroids.

71

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Zoomie size?

« on: February 22, 2018, 08:46:44 AM »

I agree, a stepped header just slows down the exhaust flow as it moves past the step into a larger area and that slows flow a little bit. With as short in length as most zoomies are, there probably isn’t much if any, difference in performance between straight and stepped. Now if you move in the other direction and make a set of “zoomies” that have a pipe length of about 32” in your case, then you could get back the inertial scavenging effect of equal length headers, less the collectors. Could be a little known speed secret from the past:)

72

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: duration change with lash change

« on: February 07, 2018, 11:43:03 AM »

From Comp Cams:

"The general rule of thumb when adjusting valve lash is that 0.004” of adjustment from the valve lash specified in the cam card equates to a 2° difference in duration when measured at 0.050” lift."

73

Altereds / Re: Merry Christmas

« on: December 13, 2017, 07:07:29 PM »

"On the seventh day of Christmas my true love gave to me, seven second time slips"

74

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Engine parts coatings

« on: December 13, 2017, 04:37:45 PM »

Looks like the server is down on the site. Here's the pictures. A section of 1/8" copper tubing was run from a pressurized oil galley through the front cover and pointed at the gears. The poster said it cured his wear problems and that the 0.040"-0.050" hole in the end of the tubing didn't reduce his oil pressure.

75

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Engine parts coatings

« on: December 12, 2017, 04:09:42 PM »

Are you using a bronze gear on the distributor now? Might look at the material compatibility of your cam gear and the distributor gear. A mismatch of materials could lead to excessive wear. Or look at this oiling solution; simple, inexpensive, and appears easy to do. About a third of the way down the page, they are using a billet cam with a stock 350 cam gear.

https://www.turbobuick.com/threads/distributor-gear.182964/