FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: nitronut on November 19, 2015, 10:58:51 AM
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Long time door car racer here and new to this site. I raced a mid 8 sec tube chassis Camaro for many years and did pretty good with it (some wins and a couple of championships in bracket classes). I sold the Camaro back in 2011 because I wanted to try Dirt track racing (Dwarf cars) but due to neck and back issues and it being a contact sport my Dr advised against it (gettn old sucks). so I bought a tube chassis road race truck just to go play around with on track day events...
It's been a blast, but I learned that I am more of a drag racer at heart...OH HECK.. I am a DRAG RACER lol :D... So I put the truck up for sale and a deal has came my way and I may trade it for a nice SBC FED. I came here to learn the ins and outs of these cars. So far they sound like a great time.
If the deal goes through... I will then post up my questions. Thanks for having me.. Jerry
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NitroNut welcome to FED Racing. Check-out NHRA web site for the Heritage site for race dates, rules and class info. FED classes; A/FD, JrFuel, 7.0 Pro, NE-1 [ 7.60], NE-2 [8.60], NE-3 [9.60], and ANRA has 4 races a year at Bakersfield, that run 7.60 and slower classes, including one moe FED class, NE-4 [ 10.60]. I race and formed the JrFuel Dragster Association [.com] a GREAT bunch of racers, and will be happy to help you.
Feel free to call me, 805-444-4489, if you'd like more info, and looking for any parts. Because I build wire spoke front dragster wheels, and sell rear slicks, I talk to allot of racers, so I may know about stuff for sale.
For 2016 Heritage has race dates in Phoenix, March Meet, Sacramento, Salt Lake City [ Back-to-back races], Bakersfield [ 7.60 and slower], Hot Rod Reunion in Bakersfield [ NE-1, A/FD, JF, 7.0 PRO, NTF]. And I'm working on getting another Heritage points race in Fontana, and since Tucson is going back to NHRA, we may have another Heritage race there.
Also, if you build a JrFueler, you can race NHRA Comp elim, in A/ND, B/ND, like the 2015 Comp World Champ B/ND Craig Bourgeois.
Keep us informed on your dragster progress.
Jon Hansen
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Welcome
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Thanks guys
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Welcome :) FED are fun and fast and you almost actually wear it. When I drove a Sprint Car same thing. You have a car light weight and you can basiclly go as fast as you want.
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We're looking at a 185" FED..
the seller says the chassis is 17" wide at the shoulders.
My question is... Will a driver that is 5'8" 230-240 lbs fit??
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No, I have 19" and I am 5'10" ,210 and fit perfect.
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Doubt it!!
I am 5 11 / 230 and my car is 21 1/2 at the shoulder--tight as I would want
The 17 inch stuff and 18 is always what you find --older usually
When you test sit a car be SURE and put on enough layers to simulate a -15 suit makes all the diff when test sitting
Skip the old narrow units look for a newer wider unit
These are FUN!! Get one but...take your time--get the right one
S&W cars, Cenpens are wider Just have to be patient
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Thank you!!!! I'll keep searching
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Most new chassis are built with the shoulder at 21" on center (center of the tube just before the bend starts) also stay away from the large single bend hoop as it will roll your shoulder blades. A hoop made from 2 - 6" rad bends and a little flat between them is the most comfortable for the larger driver
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Most new chassis are built with the shoulder at 21" on center (center of the tube just before the bend starts) also stay away from the large single bend hoop as it will roll your shoulder blades. A hoop made from 2 - 6" rad bends and a little flat between them is the most comfortable for the larger driver
Thanks for the advice, this is the car (or cockpit) of the car in question
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/real3/00303_eOrCrSVql0G_600x450_zps5fesl18h.jpg) (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/real3/media/00303_eOrCrSVql0G_600x450_zps5fesl18h.jpg.html)
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The engine is too far back in that car . You may want to go with it out 43" to 50" . The one I am building now is 43" ouy with 1.5* dump
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NitroNut, I agree, the motor is too far back, which really dates the car. It might have been built before VHT was started, just a high gear-smoke-m till half track very old school. That chassis is worthless if it will not pass tech, tubing might even be mild steel, not CM.
If it can pass tech, I would use a low HP motor that will not have enough power to keep the tires spining so that it doesn't pull the motor down out of it's HP range. The roll cage can't be widen because of the seat loop, and again looking at the cage and how close the frame rails are to each other, it's an old car. You could cut off the roll cage and weld a single loop to make it a cackel car, especially if you have any good history on it. But if your plan is to run 9.60's, 8.60, or even 7.60's, this is not the chassis to run those numbers.
Check with Bruce [ dreracecar] he builds/ fixes old school cars. See what his opinion is about this chassis.
Jon
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Once again... Thank you all for your input. Some very sound advice in here and believe i am going to PASS on this one and keep looking for the right car.
Here is the link to the add (if it's against the rules to post this link...Sorry and please delete it)
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5410609183.html
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Once again... Thank you all for your input. Some very sound advice in here and believe i am going to PASS on this one and keep looking for the right car.
Here is the link to the add (if it's against the rules to post this link...Sorry and please delete it)
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5410609183.html
That's a bummer, it looks like a decent FED.
Welcome Jerry!
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Since it has/had a cert on it , then the chassis is fine, its just to narrow for YOU as a driver and the buyer might be someone getting it for his daughter.
As far as the motor out or not out enough is BS!!! you just have to know how to make it work, and in INDEX racing--- everything works
The car itself is not worth the effort to restore unless the history is significant and documented, otherwise its worth is only what you put into it.
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I like my seat around my shoulders for support and more so in a accident. Looks like your shoulders stick up above the seat. The less body movement the better or am I seeing it wrong ?