Messages

1

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fastner material and grades ?

« on: June 03, 2014, 07:26:05 AM »

Agree with the stainless comments. If stainless to stainless is used, the use some type of anti sieze compound. Stainless hardware should not be used in high load areas as grade 8 has a much higher shear then SS. Note that there are many grade of SS (304, 316, 406, etc) and each has its use. And, of course, stay away from chromes hardware in any high load situation as hydrogen embrittlement can take place after a time which can lead to hardware failure.

ARP is of course the best you can get and they have the quality control in place to minimize hardware failure. Remember that the way a screw works is that it is deformed (stretched) when tightened. This is where the stress in the hardware is induces. Each type of hardware will react differently when stressed and this is when the failure will take place.

Also, any bolt in a shear position (rear end, 4 link, etc) should have the proper length in which the shank of the bolt (un threaded) is placed into the various bracketry. This means the threads should actually be outside of the mounting bracket (or flush) and the proper flat washer used to insure that the nut does not bottom on the thread.

Good luck!

2

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: How to properly launch a FED?

« on: June 03, 2014, 07:17:30 AM »

1.) Is the car lifting the front end and then making a move? If so, look at wheelie bar alignment. We had a bar that was bent and it actually drove the car to the side.

2.) If it is not on the bar and going to the side, then all the above will effect it.

3.) Look at your driving techniques. I have seen people that actually turn the wheel without knowing it on the launch. Sounds weird, but sometimes when accelerating, the drive may use the steering wheel to support the hand and it will rotate unintentionally.

4.) Try to get the car to slightly spin the tire.

5.) I have been up to one PSI different between the two tires. Don't be afraid to do it!

Good luck...

3

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: How to make a FED

« on: May 05, 2014, 07:45:21 PM »

The construction is not only chassis stuff but also engine parts. Because of a tall block I acquired as well as a stock height stack injection, I needed to do something with the mag. So, I designed a new timing chain cover and made a drive for the mag and pump off the front. I used a Super Mag II and a belt I had from a previous offset drive. Designed it in Solidworks and I be damned if it didn't all fit the first time!

Also there are photos of the Oberg look alike housing- blew up the cast unit and made a billet one.

Also, initially I was going to run a front distributor drive with a crank trigger. This was before the mag was decided on. This setup will go on my RED (BBC 496).....

What isn't shown yet are the fabricated valve covers and the billet rail pan. 

4

Roo Man's Room / Re: Mopar 8 3/4 "

« on: May 05, 2014, 07:32:25 PM »

We have a 8 3/4 in our FED and have had zero problems...(Will have to watch out now that I said that!). We have a Moser spool and axles (cant remember what spline, but think it is the biggest they had). We run a 3.90 gear and it has been behind a blown 528" hemi as well as a small block. From what I recall it is big pinion. We have 1.04 60' with it...No real additional stiffeners on ours.

5

Roo Man's Room / Re: Oil breather tubes on rear of cage

« on: May 03, 2014, 09:58:52 PM »

We get to play on Memorial Day. Plus, I help with Charlie Proites top fuel car.... Fun time!

6

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: How to make a FED

« on: May 02, 2014, 08:24:35 PM »

Thanks guys...will post more pics. As far as the wing color, it is green with black....always liked the Chrysler colors and with the hemi....well, ya gotta go with it! When the new graphics are done, I think you will like her even better.

John

7

Roo Man's Room / Re: Oil breather tubes on rear of cage

« on: May 02, 2014, 01:02:51 PM »

Here is my set up...Breathers were added later to both sides of the u shaped tubes...Also, don't do what I did and make sure you have some type of system to drain it!

8

Roo Man's Room / Re: Making mid engine mount

« on: May 02, 2014, 12:58:07 PM »

Band saw....I use a regular Craftsman wood band saw with a 14 or 16 tooth blade. I even use the normal speed for cutting wood. Use WD-40 for lube. I have cut 3" thick alum with that saw and it works great!

9

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: How to make a FED

« on: May 02, 2014, 11:58:09 AM »

And for kicks, here is the front axle assy. Yes, I made the spindles....Not too hard to do. You can also see the rack and pinion box. Simple system that I have used for years on junior dragsters and just upgraded it.

And I attached a pic of the Big Dollar fixture I built it on. Because of the small garage and because I did change tubing size from the engine forward, I just did the back half first. That way I didn't have to walk around 200 plus inches of tubing to get to the other side.
All the systems could be done in this state and then just glued on the front end when needed.

And note that the front end is bolted in place. This way, if there ever is any damage to it, I just unbolt it and replace it. I like things that are repairable with ease...

10

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: How to make a FED

« on: May 02, 2014, 11:52:10 AM »

Yup, everything! It isn't that hard. Just some simple tools...attached are pics of the tooling to make the ribs...Use 3003 or equiv. Plot the ribs size, cut the rib blanks, put them between the oak formers, clamp it in a vice and hammer it to shape with a soft blow hammer. Then use a rod to push the extruded material into the flutes in the rib blanks. That will keep them to shape. Just need to remember when you are riveting the structure together to hit the "high" spots of the rib.

The main tube is 1" dia 6061. The main supports go between two ribs that are spaced to accept the front support.

I can tell you from a crew member mishap that the structure is strong enough to support the weight of the front of the car when it fell onto a jack stand! Screwed up the wing but supported the car.

The outer aluminum was 5052 and the leading edge shape was formed by wrapping it onto itself (like a taco shell), taping the two loose edges together, and then pressing down on the folded edge with a 2X4. Just keep working it down until you get the nose radius you require.

Mark where the rivets go, drill and cleco, and then rivet away!

11

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: How to make a FED

« on: May 02, 2014, 10:34:32 AM »

Here is the engine compartment...Note, we made the offset drive as well as most everything you see here....Idler pulley and bracket, all the mounts, body panels, tubing, etc. Was designed in AutoCAD so al angles and lengths were a known factor. Just cut to size and put it together like a plastic model. New stuff is all designed in SolidWorks or Pro-E....Programing for the CNC is done in VisualMill. Just makes life easier...

12

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / How to make a FED

« on: May 02, 2014, 10:17:41 AM »

New to this site but looks like there are many folks here that still make their own cars. Thought I would start a thread on how I made our car. It is a 200" FED with an 8 3/4 rear end. Originally it had the blow hemi you see here and went 7.20s at 190 with a very simple set up but we ultimately kicked the rods out of it so we now have a stock bottom end 350 on stack injection and we now have an 8.50 car. I am building a new 440" BBC for it while gathering parts for a new blown hemi.

The entire car was built in the garage. Yes, I do now have a 3 axis CNC mill, good lathe, Invertig 201 TIG welder, some sheet metal tools, and a bunch of related stuff, but it still can be done on the cheap. When I started the car I only hand a table top Enco mill and did all the work on the car with that machine.

I wanted rack and pinion steering on the car, so I made a r&p from McMaster Carr parts which has worked pretty well. Note that the entire steering mechanism is inside the frame rail. I went as crazy as making the blower studs and nuts as well as some specialized hardware for the mag cap. I just like making things.

So, here is a pic of the car and I will add to it as I get time. There was some earlier conversation on wing construction and I have some simple ways of producing the ribs for the wing-All you need is some oak and a soft blow hammer.

More to come!

John