FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Social => Your Builds / Photo Gallery => Topic started by: andrewb on March 04, 2014, 06:05:55 PM
-
Now that it’s almost complete I thought I’d post a few pictures of a supercharger manifold I’m working on what seems like forever. I don’t have a machine shop so I cut every piece by hand and spend countless hours on the end of a file. I did have the top plate machined and a local shop do the welding. I’m going to start out running methanol then add nitro into the mix, but I have a long way to go before it’s ready to fire up.
I did find a chassis today for the engine, now to just get my wife to loosen her purse strings.
Andrew
-
I will follow with great interest, thanks for posting.
-
Nice job Andrew, it looks great!
If you don't mind me asking, what did you use to fill the block? It looks shiny. Aluminum?
-
Yes, it's filled with aluminum. My father-in-law had two blocks filled 25 years ago. He build one, which is still running, and had this one. If I had to fill another one I'd use epoxy. We fill other blocks with it and it's so much lighter.
-
Well, I think I found my chassis. I got a pretty good deal on it and I think the rear wheels are worth more than I paid for setup. I really would like to get it back on the strip and I'm pretty sure I can upgrade it to meet the SFI Spec 2.6A. (7.50 and slower). I know it doesn't need to be, but it is moly. The front rails are butt welded, so I'll modify that and taper them down, add a 5 point cage and a few additional uprights are needed. The Olds rear will have to go and be replaced with an 8 3/4.
Andrew
-
Yes, it's filled with aluminum. My father-in-law had two blocks filled 25 years ago. He build one, which is still running, and had this one. If I had to fill another one I'd use epoxy. We fill other blocks with it and it's so much lighter.
Thanks Andrew. Aluminum block filling is bitchin' old school. I used HardBlok in my SBC 400, man that thing is a heavy paste.
-
Hard to tell on my phone but the front wheels look like Borranis to me
-
andrewb – enjoyed seeing your intake pictures. Modern twist for a fh and maybe less weight. And “almost complete” always nice to reach a milestone in any project, bit exciting to share accomplishments, good job! I’m sure your wife already knows you into race cars, continue treating her like princess, she’ll be helping you more than you know. Maybe buy her a file : )
I saw your other post, you might check with your local race track for their chassis cert/tech day. If it’s close by and convenient, take it there. Put on your polite hat and visit with the nhra sfi tech, let him know what you’re doing and show him your chassis. I’m guessing he’ll be helpful (and won’t charge you the $150). In about 5-10 minutes, he can provide guidance on the big items of concern, then you can plan and make better decisions. DF
p.s. you probably already know, but for fed with fh, usually a conflict with zoomies and top chassis rail.
-
Hey Denverflatheader,
The only problem my wife has with it is, once it's complete, is I wont be able to spend time at the track working on her's. I married into a drag racing family and her hot rod is a 1967 Cassidy car running an injected nitro 55' Desoto Hemi. Her brothers is an almost identical setup. Here's a pic of them from last year.
I'm a little familiar with the Flathead zoomie issue. My wife ran an injected nitro fl in her car a few years back and there were clearance issues. If this chassis works out I'm pretty sure I'll be modifying the front frame rails. At least step them down in size and at the same time try to accommodate for the exhaust.
I did leave a message with our local inspector to see if I can get him to do a once over on the chassis.
Since you're a flathead guy, here's a picture of the lifters I'll be running. I ended up having to them made and they're out getting polished and DLC coated now. The coating is needed because they are made out of 8620, which is the same material as the cam. I'm really trying to get the rotating weight to a minimum, and the mushroom lifters are 40 grams less that the typical Johnson style adjustable lifters. I can also go with a bit higher lift cam with them.
Pretty much everything with this engine is custom, I even had magnesium bronze valve guides made. I'm just wanting the titanium valves to wear better.
Anyway, I'll be posting pictures of my progress but it may be a year before I'm done.
Andrew
-
Yes Andrew, neat photo! Hope those hemi’s run in a different class than your fh, probably create a little friction losing to a L-head, although be fun with your family : ) Had to read up on 8620 alloy and DLC, always a good day when I learn something new, found 8620 is between .50-.55 carbon and 4130 is .70 and they can be used interchangeably on some parts. Your engine got me curious, I agree on less weight, plus helps your valve springs. The ti valves $$$ compared to ss (cost-benefit analysis). I’ve seen mushroom style lifters before, never like those and never in a fh. I’m guessing your plans are to run 8620 cam less bearings to increase lobe/lift, you might achieve over 0.500 (pretty rare for V8 ford fh) maybe prompting your decision for mushroom lifters. You been studying your engine build for awhile… I think what you doing very cool! Taking your time, smart move. DF
8620 Alloy (from ehow.com) When the 8620 alloy is properly carburized --- heated to a set temperature and then exposed to an agent containing carbon, a process which adds an extra layer of carbon to the outside of the steel, thereby making it stronger --- it is used to make such machine parts as gears, crankshafts, and gear rings. Carburized 8620 alloy is strong and durable, which is why it is preferred for these parts.
Properties of Diamond-Like Coatings (from azom.com the a to z of materials)
Amorphous (a-C) and hydrogenated amorphous carbon (a-C:H) films have high hardness, low friction, electrical insulation, chemical inertness, optical transparency, biological compatibility, ability to absorb photons selectively, smoothness, and resistance to wear. For a number of years, these economically and technologically attractive properties have drawn almost unparalleled interest towards these coatings. Carbon films with very high hardness, high resistivity, and dielectric optical properties, are now described as diamond-like carbon or DLC.
-
Andrew now I see you are married into the Floyd's that is a pretty cool chassis you found was it local? Just curious where it was hiding
-
Hi Paul,
Ya, Earl saw it years ago sitting in the rafter of a local paint shop. He mentioned it again last week so I headed down to check it out. The only history on it is that they took it as partial payment for a paint job 10 years ago. They were reluctant to sell it but they liked the idea that I would try to get it back on the strip. I'm anxious to start playing with it but until I know that it's a certifiable chassis, it's just sitting in the garage.
Andrew
-
You just missed the chassis cert day at woodburn, but thankfully we now have a guy in portland that is a chassis cert guy since Denbo retired. I assumed Earl found it he has seems to know how to find some cool stuff!
-
Good to see another flathead car,, Tim Jones
-
You're probably going to see a lot on my engine build for this thread until I can start on my chassis. Well, after 9 months, I now have my completed lifters. The just returned from being DLC coated. While they where at it I also had my wrist pins coated.
Andrew
-
Andrew – two more pieces of the puzzle in hand, you have to remove (?) some material from engine block to fit mushroom part of lifters, or maybe already done. Looking marvelous : ) DF
-
I have magnesium bronze bushings to insert into the lifter bore then I will have it back spot face cut to accommodate the larger foot of the lifter. I know that the gains are probably minimal with this style of lifter but it's something I've always wanted to try.
Andrew
-
Andrew - one of three possible outcomes with your mushroom lifter design over stock Ford tappets; negative change, no change or positive improvement (engine dyno would verify exact results from stock tappet to mushroom lifter). The next best thing is use what’s available, pencil and paper for me : ) I draw cartoon sketches, helps me visualize easier. Based on my cartoon with stock Ford fh V8 cam, your mushroom lifter idea has obvious advantage over stock tappet. Plus your lifters have additional merit being lighter and stronger. I see “much” positive improvement over stock… DF
-
That's a great visualizaion DF.
-
my pleasure, enjoyed sketching it out : )
-
My father-in-laws motto is “I don’t what to buy it; I just want to borrow it”. Back in the mid 90’s he borrowed these solid machined billet heads designed by Virgil Hanson. He ran this best time in the injected fuel flathead, something like 8.48@155. When it came time to buy them, he opted to return them instead. Luckily for me Virgil still had them and I decided to buy them.
The chamber design is exactly what I was looking for with the main combustion area moved over the exhaust valve and accommodates a pop-up piston. Not much left for me to do with them except to find someone who can O-ring them, if it’s even possible.
Anxiously waiting for the Moldex crank, GRP rods, and billet cam blank I ordered to arrive.
Andrew
-
Woo Hoo! The GRP connecting rods finally showed up. They're like little bars of silver, but probably cost more. Here's a picture of one of the little beauties next to a stock Ford Flathead rod. Now I can get started on ordering the pistons.
Andrew
-
Pretty!
-
Andrew – good choice (grp in Denver). I know of another vintage engine ran grp rods very successfully. Met a guy from the northwest last month (WalterPearce), enjoyed visiting with him and his vintage race car. DF
p.s. I like the spark plug location on those Hansen's too (moved closer to piston) maybe less timing.
-
Andrew I look forward to watching your build. I have a soft spot for the flathead stuff. My brother has a 50 Ford pickup with it's original V-8. Before dad died we had talked about doing a flatty in a K-88 style digger. Are those rears the small window Halibrands? Very cool deal!!
Carl
-
Hi Fedonnitro,
No, not Halibrands but Romeo Palamides wheels. I just started another Flathead project in addition to this dragster. It's a 50's style wood hydroplane boat similar to the one in this picture. Nothing extreme with the engine for it, just a few standard hop ups.
Andrew
-
Neat.
-
As I sit here an wait on my crankshaft and cam (6 months and counting) there's not a lot more I can do on the engine. I decided on pulling parts together for the rear end. I ordered the Mopar Performance Aluminum Case ('742' style). I plan on going with the Mark Williams aluminum spool and axles. I'm going to start out running 3.55 gears and have found 3 manufactures of them: Motive, Nitro, and Yukon. Are any of the makers better than the other. Are there any US made ring and pinion gears. I'm kind of limited with the ratio I'm running.
Thanks,
Andrew
-
What needs to be considered is that the gears you are looking at street or race gears, If they are street gears then they need to be softened up a little for impact resistance instead of hard for longevity
-
Bored. Slow work week and I'm waiting for parts. Decided to name my future FED.
-
I like it.
-
what is the problem you have with "DOTES" that you have to be "ANTI", Some of my best freinds are "DOTES"
-
what is the problem you have with "DOTES" that you have to be "ANTI", Some of my best freinds are "DOTES"
Your friends are Dotes or Dopes? LOL
-
Woo Hoo! Camshaft finally arrived yesterday and it only took 6 months. I had Joe at Roto-Faze turn me a cam blank then shipped off to Jerry at Schneider Racing Cams. Told Jerry the purpose of the build and they ground out this 180 degree cam. Crankshaft should be here in a few week and I can get back to building the engine.
Andrew
-
Neat camshaft, enjoyed seeing your pictures. Recall you wanted more than 112 LS and the lobe design was in the think tank. With special one-off heads you’re using, can understand your hesitance to add more radical lift, as it might require modifying the valve pocket (affecting optimum flow which you know works with those heads). Guessing you can’t wait to put the new cam in and compare stock tappet to your mushrooms, be nice to know that information.
You might also consider empirical test, set up the valve springs (using 185g) with 100 lbs on the seat, and turn cam over with a torque wrench (i.e. beam deflection/pointer style). You would then know different lift rate has between stock tappets and mushrooms right away (maybe none, maybe more). If it shows “much more” torque needed with the mushrooms, might make you think about your mushroom bushing's wear (for watching it). Excellent Andrew, positive progress : ) Alan
-
Marry Christmas to me! The 180 degree (4.25" stroke) crank showed up on my doorstep yesterday courtesy of Moldex. The reason for the longer snout is to accommodate a pulleys for the supercharger, fuel pump, oil/vacuum pump, and crank support. In the one pic you can see it compared to an original Norden crank.
Andrew
-
What happened to the rest of the main bearings? :)
Roo
-
180 degree flathead crank won't that be hard on the mains?
-
Mains are overrated and more than 3 is a waste ::)
-
Enjoyed seeing your pictures. Neat composition (old vs. new) really rare image.
-
New to this board -- I've been following your build -- very nice
Thought you might like to see my front cover mod for Hilborn pump
-
Nice mod RailDog. Did you drill/install a drive stud on the front of the cam?
Andrew
-
Yes -- cam snout was drilled for 7/16 fine thread allen bolt and a center made out of 7/16 bolt was screwed into cam. Then cam put in block, Offy cover put on block and tapped with hammer to give center of drill hole. Then milled recess for pump flange using the center drilled hole.
Had to shave about .020 off cover surface to clear cam gear below distributer boss -- the offy covers have enough meat to just tap the 3 pump mounting bolt holes into the cover -- you have to rotate pump a little or use a clamp type coupler if you have a particular index position you want on the pump orientation.
Used allen bolt with a an washer under bolt head to set the pumpshaft end play.
I will probably use a 4 " pump extension on the new engine (blown) to clear the blower belts