FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Social => Your Builds / Photo Gallery => Topic started by: Ponti on May 14, 2015, 09:09:55 AM
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Well I've taken the plunge. I have commissioned a small shop to build me a slingshot chassis. The car will be a blown methanol SBC driving through a shorty glide to a final drive 9" ford. The reason for the fairly short WB is that it will be stored in my garage and unfortunately UK garages are not very big. I'll keep this updated as things progress. I hope folks like my build and any advice you can inpart would be greatfully recieved.
Cheers
Andrew
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Great!!! Enjoy the build--you will have that thing or some detail about it on your mind for the next two years easy--every night as you fall to sleep you will be planning dragster stuff--it is a good life! That first pass is as good as your first girl friend--and if it makes a full pass first time out well...maybe better! Good luck!!
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Chry 8 3/4 rear is a little smaller and less expensive, holds up fine to around 800hp
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Do you know Sam Freeman? He is over in UK as well, and is building a FED himself in his garage there. A super nice fellow as well!
Chris Dafoe
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Hi Chris, Name doesn't ring a bell.There are a few being built here.
Andrew
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Well I've placed my deposit, Steve will order the chrome molly for the chassis and hopefully in three weeks he can start my chassis. So looking forward to having a car.
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Exciting times, post pictures as the build progresses.
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Put the engine out as far as you can. Other wise your wheelie bars may need to be as long as the car.
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Ok. Enough teasing. I now have some pictures of the car being built. Hope you all like.
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Nice Mate
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looks good nice short car
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Looks great! Does the drawing says 15,6 ft total length?
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Latest pictures of the build
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Nice stance! 8) Keep the pictures coming!
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Wow!!Beautiful car so far!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Well it's here, car has arrived at my house. Now the hard work starts, before returning it for the bodywork at fuel tank build.
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👍👍👍👍👍
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We need updated pics :D 8)
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We need updated pics :D 8)
Ok picture update. I don't feel I have made much progress, money has been shorter than I was hoping. I have stripped it back to a bare frame and primed it ( And most of the garage :o ) . I got hold of a Powerglide and then sourced a shifter, problem was it was a 3 speed. Took me a few days of head scratching to work out how to modify it, but I've managed it, stripped and cleaned it before blowing some Satin Black over it, just need to rebuild it now ;D .
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Thanks for the update Ponti :)
Whats missing to start assembling it?
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Lots of elbow grease...... Have to paint the chassis, going to be standard style Gloss Black. Clean and paint the steering and front end. I haven't got any internals for the back axle, but I am going to make a temp axle so I can set it on it's wheels so I can work out backspacing etc for disc's hardware.
Then I need funds for engine work and box work :'(
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I wish you were closer Ponti. I'd sure lend you a 9" Ford center.
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I wish you were closer Ponti. I'd sure lend you a 9" Ford center.
Thx for that, would have been cool.
Hardest problem I'm having is finding classic Injection parts to keep the old school theme.
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Well I have had a productive few days, I have managed to fab a temp rear axle and managed to mount the wheels at the desired spacing from the body. I have also modified the steering box mount so that the butterfly sits a bit higher, it was just hitting the diff before so no hand room at all.
Next job is prime and paint the front axle and mounts.
I am also going to see if some one local can come and have a look at making some padding for my rollcage, and seat.
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Alkydiggers in nashville TN will send you a nice vintage injection set up for reasonable
Call Mike Chilando tell him David Kluttz sent you Guess you will run a SBC? You can get an older unit like a 2 3/16ths hilborn that will work great I would not go smaller but those work great Use an enderle 80A-0 pump and you will be set used pumps from Mike are trusty and reasonable $$
Good looking car just hang in there
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Cheers Dave,
I'll get a hold of him, my other half is visiting friends in Texas next month so might be able to reduce my shipping costs and get stuff sent there.
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Well I have been out working on the Ol' girl the last few days. I have managed to make a temp rear axle so I can work out the axle lengths, and get it looking more like a race car. I've primed the parts of my front end, and a few other bits. I am also working on my powergilde and have had to trial fit it to work out lengths and such, so while I was at it I just HAD to drop a block in, ,oh and maybe a head, rocker cover and intake. lol
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Is that a Standard 8/10/Cadet steering box?
Roo
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Is that a Standard 8/10/Cadet steering box?
Roo
TBH I can't be fully sure as a good friend sourced it, but I think it was a Fiat 500, it's a cast alloy case.
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The Standard has a cast alloy case with four bolts holding the ends in place. It is actually reversible as the internals can be flipped to put the splined end (for the column) at either end of the box. We started using them as they were much lighter than the cast iron Austin A30/35 box and did not have a built in steering column like the BMC box. If you box does not have metric fasteners is is probably the Standard unit.
Roo
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Well after a weekend of Drag therapy, I have managed to take advantage of the warm weather and have spray painted my front end, fingers crossed once it's gassed off and varnished you won't be able to tell the difference from chrome plated versions.
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Paint looks great, what is it, I need to do similar job?
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Paint looks great, what is it, I need to do similar job?
Halfords rattle can, nothing special ;D . Only thing I made sure of was that with primer the surfaces were as smooth as possible, as it's a fine surface coat and it would show any imperfections.
What are you thinking of painting on yours then?
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Rattle cans, amazing, looks real good.
I need to do exactly the same parts, I was thinking maybe chrome finish powder coat but I would much rather do it myself if I could get a result like you have. Did you have to do a black base coat as with powder coat?
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Another option for you guys would be the jet hot coating that they use for headers ! It is a small fraction of the cost of chrome and it is very durable !
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Thanks Bill, I will look into that option, sounds like it would last better than paint, cool.
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The shop that polishes my wheels also does the Jet Coating for my zoomies. I have had them do some street rod Jet coating that has worked real Good. The only limit I have found is the coated parts have to fit into a tumbler, you see when the parts come out of the oven, they are dull, so they need to be tumbled to get shinny like chrome. One of the best projects was our JrFuel driver had me Jet Coat his front bracket for the A/C water pump, power steering pump, etc on his crate motor for his 40 Ford, it looks like chrome, and he doesn't need to polish his chrome. Just make sure your silver High Temp coater has a tumbler big enough for your parts.
BTW, I have used chrome polish on my zoomies when a crew member let the engine cover fall onto the hot zoomies.
Have Fun,
Jon
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Also, the pipes cool down after a run MUCH quicker with the Jet Hot coating. Less risk of burning yourself or starting a fire.
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Well, the painted front end was a waste of time and money. The chrome never fully hardened and as soon as I touched it, it marked. So rubbed it back, will have a think of another idea.
In the mean time have put a few more bits back on for mock up purposes, routings of pipe work etc.
Also just visible in the rear view is my rear light, just trying to work out position for mount.
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I didnt want to say anything about the chrome paint in case they came up with some new product that really worked
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Paint is very particular about temperature and humility.
It is also very particular about re-coat times and thickness of coats (Enamel generally wants two thin (dust coats) followed by a median wet coat allowing ten minutes between coats and all re-coat within an hour).
I have been able to get very good results when following the directions on the cans. Humility can cause really poor and disappointing results.
I do not know if you used enamel paint but enamel paint takes for ever to cure, in optimum conditions 7 DAYS to harden. Enamel tends to have the surface harden while under the surface the paint stays soft.
Below is a steering gear box I painted up to look like cast steel with the cover plate in aluminum. A coat of clear was added over the top of the three coats of paint. I left it hanging above a dehumidifier for a week. The paint is rock hard.
You might want to get a scrap piece of metal and give paint a second try? Paint will never be as hard as chrome, and will scratch, but should not mare with handling.
(This steering gear box is for my CJ-7 Jeep)
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Hi Glenn,
Might give it another go then. Yeah I gave them a couple of flash coats, and got a great coverage, then I'd left them for near as dammit 2 weeks to gas off, as weather went a bit screwy so might have got under the paint.
Or just find someone with a spray booth.
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You did nothing wrong,
The base material for chrome paint does not like to be touched or handled and if you try shooting clear over it , it will no longer look chrome.
The chrome paint base is more suited for having a CANDY paint shot over it
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Chrome powder coat is getting there and has the look of highly polished aluminium but still not close to the reflective qualities of stainless or chrome
There are specialised paints out there which are getting close. Essentially you lay a gloss black base and put a lightly tinted binder over it with a very fine silver pigment which gives a translucent effect much like nickel plating.
Personally if I were you I'd stump up and get it chromed now. Chrome plating is getting more expensive due to environmental controls and according to a guy I used the EU was looking to ban all proper chroming by next year. Might be hearsay but the compliant methods are no where near as reflective or durable
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Well, I enjoyed the sun, and so did the car..... First time since getting her up here she's got back outside, well partly.
Bolted a few more bits back on to test placements etc.
Also started at looking at a path to route the chute release cable and placement of the handle. Have thought of placing the handle down just in front of the brake lever, with the cable routing forward and round to keep a gentle curve, then run it back along the top tube / shoulder rail and having it come from under the pack ( not worked that bit yet ) What do folks think?
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Lookin' great!
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The only way to determine proper placement is to suit and helmet up and sit in the car and find out what works. Its one of those things you want to do right the first time.
I prefer to mount a chute handle to the left side in front of the forward hoop pushing forward to pull cable and open chute. Trying to pull back on something that needs a lot of throw is difficult in a cramped car and trying to find something burried while in darkness could lead to trouble. My prefered left side/push forward keeps your left (driving)hand on the wheel and you cross your right across your chest and find the roll cage, slide your hand down the tubing to the bottom and push forward on the lever and then go back to the brake handle. You will always find that bar even if your visor is covered in smoke/oil
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Chrome powder coat is getting there and has the look of highly polished aluminium but still not close to the reflective qualities of stainless or chrome
I powder coat to make money on (pretty professional), this is my oven
(http://www.lever-family-racing.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Oven_001.jpg)
Chrome powder coat is very disappointing. I try and get people not to do it and when they insist and I do it it is disappointing, it is nothing but shinny silver
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I agree with Bruce. Lever directly in front of the front cage hoop so that it is easy to find and push forward to operate. Depending on brake lever placement (if you have a hand brake) I like to put the chute release on the right so that you can fan it on your way to grabbing the brake. If your car is tight and you can't get your elbow back enough to do that the left side placement and cross over deal is better. And please don't use a Morse type cable for the chute--a simple single wire deal is more than enough to hold the pack closed. My Don Long car did not even have an outer sheath on the cables--they simply ran under the upholstery where it was snap fastened to the shoulder hoop.
Roo
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Another vote for left side in front of hoop. I cross over with my right hand and it is easy to follow down the front of the hoop to find it in case of a problem. I am also a fan of opening it on every run to develop muscle memory. New build will not have a sheath either, just the wire.
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Roo , with the round back shoulder hoop its going to be cramped, different story if it was a square hoop instead.
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Roo , with the round back shoulder hoop its going to be cramped, different story if it was a square hoop instead.
My cars all use a "square" (Long style) shoulder hoop
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Bit more work done today.
I've attached a couple more pictures, might make more sense of where I am thinking of my chute handle. I have mocked it up with one from a fire suppression system, I mounted it infront of my brake lever, so it's a pull chute......pull brake.
Also sat in the car and tried the shifter, Oops... hit the axle when I pulled it back for 1st, I then realised that once strapped I'd not be able to shift it forward enough for reverse or park. Time to get thinking ::) out with the woodworking tools and some ply and a temp handle fab'd to test operation. Took a couple of goes but it works, just need to sort some cable for operating the lockout, and get a shifter made. Not sure a wooden one would pass Tech inspection ;D
Oh and the views not bad from the seat.
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NEVER have anything protuding (chute cable bracket) that your knee can come into contact with in case of accident or you will limping for a long long time
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I would have a fairing on the bracket if I kept it there, and obviously a more rounded outside edge.
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Will not make any difference, Your knees not mine
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I personally wouldn't have it there. You'll be unable to find and deploy it from down there when you REALLY need it in a hurry. It'll also be a pain to live with getting in an out of the car, ie bootlace, trouser material snagging / deploying it. You really don't want stuff around you're knees either, difficult to get out of a burning car with shattered knee caps.... Also when belted in with arm restraints on can you actually reach it ?
If you're using a pull handle maybe place it in whatever arrangement you make to support the upper steering column. In my experience you want it within your peripheral vision and reach when sat in the car belted in with restraints on looking down the track. Looking down to find and pull it really isn't practical at speed especially with a helmet support on.
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Well I have picked up one of the bigger finds for the car, an Early Enderle bug catcher, still need the blower so I made a wooden frame to hold it at the correct height and get the feel for the final look.
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Where is the shot of you sitting in it making engine noises?
Looking good.
Glenn
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This is what the chute lever install in Glenn's car looks like (on the left because the shifter is on the right). In your application pushing the lever forward would put your hand right where the brake handle is located. No need for a loop in the cable and you can slide the back of your hand down the front cage hoop to locate the lever.
(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/aussierooman/aussierooman028/IMG_5530.jpg)
Roo
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OMG In trouble for not posting on here for a while. ;D
Well I haven't dropped off the face of the earth, still been trying to get back to normality.
After a weekend away at the track with some great cars, I have got back into the garage and managed to build the extensive wiring loom. All of 2 relays, 1 for the fuel primer pump the other will be for the starter.
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Hey Brother it's been more than a little while since an update on this little cutie.