FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: RacinJacin on November 07, 2014, 01:17:14 PM
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I'll start:
Maybe some stuff that no one would ever notice?
For me no wires/linkage thru the motor plate.
Turned down v/c studs so that covers slip on/off easy without grinding any aluminum on the studs - bottom 1/4" of stud original size so it still pilots properly.
Machined v/c nuts with integral washer flange.
Installed pem nuts on aluminum parts - less likely to strip than threading the aluminum - easier to replace than helicoils.
I machined Teflon inserts (totally hidden) for steering linkage - where the links drag thru the aluminum brackets.
Removed pickup from oil pump so it could never fall off.
Modified my 1 piece girdle so you can individually preload each cap.
Added seat belt hangers so you can get in without sitting on them (may sound silly, but I am really glad I did this one.)
I added a coupler on the fuel tank to make draining it easier - just snap on the hose.
Care to share some of YOURS????? :-)
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All wiring for switch and gauges on right side so I can pivot the crossbar,dash and most of the electronics up and out of way for easy trans work with one bolt thru cross bar and one from draglink.
Two hole in motor plate so that both lineup with conveter bolts at same time,only have to rotate to get 3rd bolt out.
Making tool tray to mount over zoomie and attach to blower restraint brackets using quick pin to loc them in.
Oil pressure,fuel pressure and nitrous pressure gauges mounted in void at back of sheetmetal intake .Keeps them out of cock pit ,less lines & less weight.
One temp gauge for 4 readings using 2 - 3 position switchs
Working on slide that mounts to trans and chassis to allow sliding trans back for quick converter swap ,especailly helpful when your only one doing the work.
Air pressure gauge holder for those weekends when nobody shows to help.
Stub for helmet hanger
Chute body built for 2 chutes with quick one bolt and cpl dzus fasteners removing one leave one packed for next run in case hot lapped and not time to repack.
Have a richening valve setup to shut one bypass pill to richen and cool motor,since now way to run cooling system with solid block and billet heads. Also a leanout to add heat on starting line if needed.
Primer system(self made) for easy starting when alone.
Going 16v battery for faster cranking speed to lite easier with mag.
Went with aLLEN WRENCH dzus fasteners. lot easier and no slipping screwdriver scatchs. Call Parks if need them.
larger than needed fuel line. little more capacity plus flipper trap near front to make sure will not run dry when shutting down. Wait am I giving away to many ideas? will have to think about what else I have done. My wife says a good mind can be dangerous thing to use in some cases.
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Wideope231, Yours jogged my memory on some others of mine.
Harmonic balancer marked to allow access for converter bolts (not as slick as your 2)
I couldn't afford the NAS bolts - instead I used longer bolts and cut them down so I would get the benefit of the long shank and then I'd ream the holes for fit. Sometimes I'd c'bore them to ensure I had the shank in shear and not the threads.
I know some guys don't like the morse red jacket cables - I got them cheap - so I used them. I also duplicated the ends and made my own shifter cable using them.
When welding chassis - drill small hole to vent hot gas - especially important on small dia./length tubes - if well thought out you can do this so then next tube covers the hole. Prevents the hot gas from blowing out the weld.
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Great thread, keep the ideas flowing guys. I especially like the ones target to one-man-band like me.
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I keep my battery on an automatic trickle charger (battery tender) at all times. Never have to worry about state of charge. Bought a set of wheel dollies to spin the car around then the pit are tight. At the end of the day while the motor is hot I put a shop vac in the valve cover oil fill hole and draw cool air through the motor to cool it down and to avoid any alcohol or water condensation back into the oil.
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few from me
spare circuits and fuses in a loom
adjustable battery tray / mount to use any available battery
an ignition light, added after leaving ignition on all night
a proper jacking pad off the chassis
water pump restrictors to slow coolant flow /aid heat transfer
fan and pump external plug to cool the car with a slave battery.
alternator and andersen jack
Holley carb bowl vent extension stops fuel sloshing down the carb
drilled and tapped manaifold to bleed off airlocks
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Howdy.
I know this is a really old thread but just as relevant today. I particularly like Pipe Dreams vacuum cleaner cool down trick. What other smart ideas do you all have?
Cheers
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When welding chassis - drill small hole to vent hot gas - especially important on small dia./length tubes - if well thought out you can do this so then next tube covers the hole. Prevents the hot gas from blowing out the weld.
My friend's altered chassis builder located each vent hole under the next pipe welded on. Then after all was complete he added a Schrader Valve (tire stem) to the rear of the chassis.
Pressurize the chassis with air.
Holds pressure = no cracks in chassis.
Doesn't hold pressure = cracked tube / weld somewhere.
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I keep my battery on an automatic trickle charger (battery tender) at all times. Never have to worry about state of charge. Bought a set of wheel dollies to spin the car around then the pit are tight. At the end of the day while the motor is hot I put a shop vac in the valve cover oil fill hole and draw cool air through the motor to cool it down and to avoid any alcohol or water condensation back into the oil.
I did the vacuum deal at the valve covers (suck thru engine) untill one day a spark from the motor ignited the fumes from the engine and I had a vacuum that looked like a jet engine !!!!!
Reverse the hoses and blow thru the engine.
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I have been trying to make as few of the nuts and bolts different sizes as possible. Pretty much down to 7/16,1/2 and 9/16 except fuel lines and there its 11/16,7/8 #12 and #20 on oil lines which don't come off too often. Bought specailty nuts for stuff like 7/16 studs so they ar 9/16 nuts. Amke as many parts as possible so they remove together.Like fuel pump clamp removes fuel pump drive(belt),pump all line between pump,shut off and block at pump and you lay complete assembly forward,zero bolts.
Dzus any part possible so as to not need anything except 3/16 allen wrench.