Messages

151

Wanted to buy / SBC roller cam

« on: July 31, 2016, 11:16:44 AM »

Need a solid roller camshaft for a small block Chevy. At least 260* duration @ .050” and at least .600” lift. Will only be used to clearance a 383 Chevy build so the cam doesn’t have to be perfect (no wiped out lobes!). Trying to decide if I need to order a new reduced base circle cam or not.

152

Altereds / Re: New guy from Texas and almost finished with new car...

« on: May 17, 2016, 07:03:29 AM »

Welcome to the board Pete. Lookin' good with that new Ford power!

153

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Brass shavings from distributor gear and new billet cam

« on: April 06, 2016, 05:59:54 PM »

You might check this out:

http://www.cranecams.com/bulletins_listview.php?s_id=27

154

Wanted to sell / Anglia spindles

« on: April 01, 2016, 12:04:11 PM »

Original Anglia spindles. Came off a 4-door Prefect, unmolested originals. $250 and I pay the freight in the lower 48. Also have a Corvair aluminum steering box. $75 and I pay the freight. Both for $300. Can email pictures   785-320-2829

155

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: The Nostalgic 265 Engine Build

« on: March 31, 2016, 05:37:10 PM »

The conventional wisdom says that a rod-to-stroke ratio of 1.6 to 1.8 is a real good for a high performance engine. With a 5.7” rod and the 3” stroke in your 265 the rod-to-stroke ratio is 1.9; 5.7/3=1.9. With the 5.94” rod the ratio goes up to 1.98 and will probably do little good in producing more power as you are already over the sweet spot for rod length. The new engine I'm building for my altered has a 3.625” stroke with 6” rods resulting in a rod-to-stroke ratio of 1.65 and I’m very satisfied with it. Just my 2 cents.

156

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: The Nostalgic 265 Engine Build

« on: March 31, 2016, 03:34:10 PM »

A longer connecting rod will reduce the rod angle to the cylinder centerline. Less rod angle will reduce piston side loading so there will be less friction and less cylinder wear. The long connecting rod also allows the piston to stay at top dead center longer as the mixture ignites. That gives the combustion pressure more time to build before it starts to shove the piston down the cylinder. All this would result in additional power being produced along with a decrease in cylinder wall wear.

157

Altereds / Re: new member

« on: March 25, 2016, 11:26:29 AM »

Welcome to the board. Lots of knowledgeable folks here affected by the same need for speed as you:) Just so happens I'm also in the process of finishing a new (for me) altered.

158

Altereds / Re: Altered driveline cover requirements.

« on: January 31, 2016, 05:52:26 PM »

The rule states that if you sit over or in back of the rear end section, then you must have .120” min. steel plate securely mounted to the rear end center section if you use universal joints.

Just bought an altered last week with a 4 link rear. When sitting in my car I sit in front of the rear end, not over it or behind it. The back of the roll cage shoulder hoop is about plumb with the u-joint on the rear end but my butt is well in front of the rear end so it appears this rule wouldn’t require any steel plate. If yours is like this then it doesn’t appear to be required. There is a drive shaft loop directly below the front of the seat in my car and another about 10” towards the rear along with a 3" wide piece of .120" steel attached between the two that won’t allow a loose shaft to come up and bite me in the ass. The setup has repeatedly passed tech at many national NHRA events though I don’t know if the car ever went through IHRA tech.

 Besides, the paragraph from the rule book appears to be talking about the preferred use of couplers instead of a driveshaft with a solid mounted rear end; couldn’t use a coupler instead of a driveshaft in our case. And there’s the driveshaft loop for the front of the driveshaft installed within 6” of the front u-joint.

Now if you’re sitting over the rear in your car then you might want to contact an IHRA tech person or an experienced chassis craftsman just to be safe. Myself, I want to keep all the parts I was born with in one piece cause I’m kinda attached to them so I’ll error on the side of safety. There’s two reasons my car is going to the chassis shop; making a few modifications to the car and letting the expert look for and fix any problems or concerns. Safety first.

159

Wanted to sell / Re: 2002 Bob Meyer Race Cars FED

« on: November 16, 2015, 09:29:07 PM »

Thanks Jon. The car was sold to a guy in western Kansas and where he plans to race it I don’t know for sure. I did let Buchanan know who purchased it. I didn’t have to sell it; I just couldn’t get good help to come out with me on a consistent basis. It sucked to see the car sitting in the shop on a sunny Saturday when a couple of area tracks were running and I didn’t have help. So to cope with my itch to go fast, I’m now looking for an altered with a cooling system I can run by myself if necessary. It ain’t over for me by a long shot!

160

Wanted to sell / Re: 2002 Bob Meyer Race Cars FED

« on: November 10, 2015, 02:07:02 PM »

Sold

Thanks Glenn

161

Wanted to sell / 2002 Bob Meyer Race Cars FED

« on: October 20, 2015, 07:08:14 AM »

2002 Bob Meyer Race Cars FED, 185” wheelbase, engine 42” out
Current 6.0 NHRA sticker good to Aug. 2018, legal B/Nostalgia Dragster
2 different nose configurations, single wheel wheelie bar
5# fire suppression system, 4 gallon anodized fuel tank with 1-1/4” line
407” Chevy Dart Iron Eagle block, Stef’s Comp. Elim. oil pan
Crower Ultra-Light crank and rods, JE pistons with Total Seal gapless rings
Crower roller cam and lifters, Jesel belt drive
ATI damper, Star Machine vacuum pump   
Pro-Action raised runner ported iron heads with titanium valves
Crower pushrods, shaft rockers, titanium spring retainers and springs
Hilborn 2-3/4” injection, Hilborn 1/2 pump
MSD Mag with 2 points boxes, two-step, tach, shift light
Racepak V300 system with 8 EGT probes, engine and driveshaft rpm, pan vacuum,
  trans fluid temp, oil pressure,  fuel pressure, fuel flow, G force, and battery voltage
Mike’s Powerglide with Dedenbear case and Hipster brake
6000rpm stall convertor
10” Winters rearend with 4.12 gears and Strange axles and carbon brakes
Bogart wheels with 9 runs on new #2585 12-31x15 Goodyears
Current Stroud belts and DJ Safety parachute
Comes with extra valve train parts, fire-up stands, all records, and 5 gallons of alcohol

Nice car, runs well, don’t have consistent help to operate the car. Fresh engine has 9
easy passes. Car can be hauled in a 20’ v-nose trailer and will fit in a 22’ deep garage.

$22,500 OBO
Roger (785)-three-two-zero-2829
Might separate if engine sells first

162

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Where to put trans brake button with a hand brake car

« on: September 21, 2015, 10:45:54 AM »

Here's a picture of Frank and Scott's car. If you look close you can see the trans brake button sticking out of the top of the brake handle.

163

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: New Zoomies are done!

« on: September 21, 2015, 10:23:49 AM »

Nice looking zoomies.

164

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: New Guy love FED but clueless and scaried

« on: September 16, 2015, 09:19:59 AM »

After reading several threads from the past and then this one, I’ve got to say that buying a complete used rolling chassis or even a complete running racecar will put you a whole lot closer to making passes down the track and at a whole lot less expense. Buy as much of a car as you can afford, keeping in mind your car is an investment of your dollars. Buying a quality used car that fits you and meets your needs will give you many seconds of pure joy (1/8 or 1/4 mile at a time) and can provide a good financial return on your investment should you decide to sell it (as long as you care for it properly and stay out of trouble). Couple of years ago I bought a nice running junior fuel car that was built in 2003 by a veteran chassis builder and then added a new set of tires, new rings & bearings, and a few small items. I could not have bought a new cylinder block, rods, crank, heads and injection like what came with the car for what I paid for the complete car. Just my thoughts:)

165

Roo Man's Room / Re: 2.75 x 19 Tires

« on: August 31, 2015, 06:30:46 PM »

Have you tried Jon Hansen at Hayden Enterprises? He might have some Avons that come close. 800-624-3803