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Wanted to sell / Re: Goodyear slicks #2585
« on: October 22, 2019, 08:06:05 AM »
Mark, I sent you a PM.
FEDs Forever!
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17
Wanted to sell / Re: Goodyear slicks #2585
« on: September 14, 2019, 12:00:33 PM »
$500 for the pair. U pick up.
18
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fed build design ?
« on: September 09, 2019, 09:14:25 AM »
Short garage, long car? Make the chassis a 2 piece unit. My pervious car was a 2 piece chassis that worked and ran great. Never took it apart but the original owner did. The first photo shows the car backed into the trailer on the left and the front half of the chassis is suspended above it. His cackle-fest dragster is on the right with the front axle and wheel hanging above it. And this is all in a 20 foot trailer:) A blown engine like you're are wanting to install will work better and be more consistent in a longer car as opposed to a shorter car. Just another thought.
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Wanted to sell / Goodyear slicks #2585
« on: September 05, 2019, 01:08:21 PM »
New pair of GY 2585 slicks, 31x12-15. Stored in a cool dark basement. Pickup in Manhattan or Topeka, KS. $625
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: steam holes
« on: September 03, 2019, 09:21:17 AM »
If you're only running it a quarter mile per at a time, you can probably get by without holes. The steam holes are only needed when the engine is running hot for a long period of time because of the siamesed cylinder that don't allow for complete water circulation in a stock block. The two center exhaust ports are close together and also tend to concentrate the heat at the deck which the holes help with circulation and cooling.
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Altereds / Re: First full pass on current combo at last!
« on: July 19, 2019, 06:11:00 PM »
Congrats! What a charge last half of the run:)
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: March 15, 2019, 12:04:55 PM »
Legal, probably. Safe,? You have a nice car with some nice workmanship, congrats. The only dog I have in this fight is safety, for you and the others at the track. Just by chance, the photo is from the current issue of National Dragster and shows what happens when a compressed extinguishing agent is expelled at a high velocity from a loose cylinder…instant unguided missile (upper right in photo). With your bottles so far legally forward they would be the first to encounter damage in an accident and could be broken loose or have the system rendered inoperable due to damage and would be of no use in the subsequent fire. I suppose the driver in the photo should feel relieved that the bottle wasn’t aimed at him…
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Who is "FLIPPIN AR" ?
« on: March 08, 2019, 11:41:03 AM »
Flippin is a town in Arkansas. Don't know about Performance Automotive but the guys at Spirit Cars in Flippin might be able to help you out. They build street rod bodies and chassis.
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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: shifter help
« on: January 26, 2019, 09:48:28 AM »
I have a Quarter Pro shifter in my altered, it's the same shifter as the standard Outlaw with just a different name. Uses the same cable mount bracket. Distance from the center of the shifter arm in the trans to the center of the cable hole is 1-3/4", as close as I can measure. The arm I used for the trans is the same one Biondo sells for this shifter. Hope this helps.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Power+weight+time.
« on: January 24, 2019, 07:14:37 PM »
While it’s not a FED, my altered ran a best of 6.81 in the 1/8 mile at about 1620# with an almost stock 350 SBC and a 2100 stall convertor. That is about a 10.50 in the ¼ mile. Engine had 86,000 miles on it with a small cam (idled at 700rpm, 14” of vacuum), a high-rise and 600cfm carb. It was slow but VERY consistent:)
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: NOS fuel install...
« on: January 24, 2019, 07:00:10 PM »
Sounds like you have something similar to the photo. I used a #6 AN gauge adapter with a 1/4" pipe thread for a gauge on one side and on the other side the same fitting will be used for the RacePak fuel pressure sensor. Instead of the sensor, put a fitting in and attach your 4 AN line.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Spring upgrades....
« on: January 09, 2019, 09:44:22 AM »
After looking at the photo of your dragster, you might consider moving the fuel pump & filter to the right side of the car and putting the bottle on the left side. The bottle doesn’t have to be perfectly centered, you will already have the weight of pump, filter, & hoses on the right so a little to left of center shouldn’t effect anything. Will the mount & bottle fit under the body and still set at an angle?
As for which single pipe in a set of zoomies to install an EGT sensor, that will depend on intake manifold flow characteristics from cylinder to cylinder and every intake is a little different, among other things. I’d suggest just going with the manufactures recommendations. Using Bruce’s example, with your car making about 400hp now & running 9.5 - 9.6 ETs, just a 75hp hit of nitrous should put you into the 8.9s. I think NOS is a good idea, I’m wanting to try some later this year myself:)
As for which single pipe in a set of zoomies to install an EGT sensor, that will depend on intake manifold flow characteristics from cylinder to cylinder and every intake is a little different, among other things. I’d suggest just going with the manufactures recommendations. Using Bruce’s example, with your car making about 400hp now & running 9.5 - 9.6 ETs, just a 75hp hit of nitrous should put you into the 8.9s. I think NOS is a good idea, I’m wanting to try some later this year myself:)
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: sbc rocker?
« on: January 06, 2019, 10:50:03 AM »
As a suggestion, see if the fella with the rockers will let you run 8 on the exhaust and buy them if the car runs quicker in A-B testing. If they don’t, return them to him. I’d be interested to know the results.
As to if this would work, I think it might. But that all depends on what you have for a cam right now. Reasoning? Replace the headers with zoomies and you lose the wave and inertia scavenging the headers produced by way of the length of the pipes and the collectors. Your engine is now down on power, just as your testing proved. One way of getting some of that lost power back is to get rid of more exhaust gases quicker to help overcome the current lack of wave scavenging. If you replace a 1.5 arm with a 1.6 arm everything that happens on the valve side of the arm occurs quicker, or sooner. According to Dick Jones, Jones Cam Design, when he tested a cam with 268* duration @ 0.050” lift, he found the cam picked up another 2* duration with the addition of the 1.6 arm. At 0.200” lift it saw a 4* duration increase. So, maybe increasing the length of time, along with the additional lift, will better evacuate the cylinder by the time it gets close to TDC. Might work
I like your attitude…do not remove the zoomies!
As to if this would work, I think it might. But that all depends on what you have for a cam right now. Reasoning? Replace the headers with zoomies and you lose the wave and inertia scavenging the headers produced by way of the length of the pipes and the collectors. Your engine is now down on power, just as your testing proved. One way of getting some of that lost power back is to get rid of more exhaust gases quicker to help overcome the current lack of wave scavenging. If you replace a 1.5 arm with a 1.6 arm everything that happens on the valve side of the arm occurs quicker, or sooner. According to Dick Jones, Jones Cam Design, when he tested a cam with 268* duration @ 0.050” lift, he found the cam picked up another 2* duration with the addition of the 1.6 arm. At 0.200” lift it saw a 4* duration increase. So, maybe increasing the length of time, along with the additional lift, will better evacuate the cylinder by the time it gets close to TDC. Might work
I like your attitude…do not remove the zoomies!
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: nostalgia eleminator type event
« on: December 19, 2018, 10:02:36 AM »
Pro tree or Sportsman tree?
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Roo Man's Room / Re: wheel backspacing
« on: November 19, 2018, 08:43:00 AM »
Here's what the rub looks like on my altered with a 1/2" static clearance. Only way to get the tire to touch the frame is to turn a corner at speed, like turning off onto a return road. This is with 7 psi in the tire. Like the Flyer said, it don't take much lateral movement for the chassis to contact the sidewall.