Messages

196

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: repair for PG case

« on: April 23, 2015, 04:50:08 PM »

Is it an after market or stock case? Not sure I would spend time trying to save a stock. Now the cost of a after market would lead me to give it a try. I would rebore it to center press in a solid slug and bore for a bearing. I would avoid welding for fear of case warping.

197

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: power glide goes backward in low

« on: April 14, 2015, 05:48:58 PM »

Band adjustment is easy so check it first, drop the fluid and inspect for debris. If the car backed up after the shifter was put in low, I think you have bigger problems than just the band. Possibly you have a cross leak in the valve body. Probably going to end up pulling it out and going through it again.

Hope this helps,
Dan

198

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Converter snout engagement into Powerglide pump

« on: April 02, 2015, 06:25:18 PM »

You should have 1/8 to 3/16 between the converter and flexplate.

Hope this helps.
Dan

199

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: PG Converter

« on: March 15, 2015, 07:43:40 AM »

Sometimes the input shaft can be a pain to slide back in. Try putting a yoke in the trans to line up the planetary. Without a yoke the output shaft can "sag" causing just enough misalignment that the input shaft won't slide back in.

Dan

200

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: PG Converter

« on: March 14, 2015, 07:14:40 PM »

Horse power is not the only factor when choosing an input shaft. Some things to consider are type of launch, foot brake or trans-brake, how hard your converter hits, and is your car suspended or solid. Solid cars tend to suffer from tire shake and this can be hard on everything including the input shaft. Another thing is does your car dead hook or spin. When all things are factored in it is always better to err on the over kill side, the last thing you need is an input shaft failure in the final.

Hope this helps, Dan

201

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: PG Converter

« on: March 13, 2015, 07:45:36 PM »

Sounds like you got all the right advice. Just for future knowledge PG spline is 17 and Turbo is 30. Definitely check the sealing rings on the input shaft, but sometimes they are just stubborn!

Thanks for the question, Dan   

202

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Dan question on alignments

« on: February 14, 2015, 05:59:35 AM »

I found this article from a company called Wilcap, in it they refer to the proper alignment giving reference to both standard and automatic transmissions. http://www.wilcap.com/ALP.PDF . Based on their numbers your stuff in way off center.

Hope this helps,
Dan

203

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Dan question on alignments

« on: February 13, 2015, 05:18:12 AM »

Sorry so long in replying. I have never done an install using an adapter, so I have 0 experience on this subject. However I do know a couple of guys that do run a glide to hemi combo. When I ask them about run out/alignment I got the same answer, "never checked it, it all went together with no problems". I do think the numbers you have gave are to much not to question it. In this day and age with cnc machines I would think it would fit with less run out and better alignment. It would be nice to compare side by side your set up with that of another brand.

204

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: High low valvebody

« on: February 06, 2015, 11:57:22 AM »

Yes when using a delay box your staging wouldnt change, and after a few hits to get the box set you would be ready to the make the change at anytime and be close. Using the lock out feature of the box would be a must with type of valvebody. For sure it is easier on the high clutch pack to leave in high rather than quick shift, however we were just getting data with a customer to see how his car reacted and what his difference in staging would be as he is a bottom bulb racer. Once a racer has data it becomes a great tool. I have seen guys switch set ups between rounds just to make the guy wonder whats up, or the race has run late and the dew comes in. With as much as we spend $200 is small change.     
So collect lots of data so when the time comes to use the option you will be ready.

205

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: High low valvebody

« on: February 04, 2015, 08:09:49 AM »

We have played with high gear leave. While i dont have one of those valvebodies we do launch off a 2 step and we set the shift 100 rpms higher so it goes into high right after the brake release. Our results for a 2300lbs door car was going from 5.90s to 6.40s in the eighth. The car ran pretty consistent only problem we found was their not much middle ground. Bumping the shift up but staying under the stall speed didnt speed the car up much at all. So going with a high low set up you pretty much just have the two options. But in the case of a blower car with testing a guy could find a high gear combo that would run the same as the low gear combo with blower over drive and fuel curve. For those of up with out that option its pretty much and on/off switch. in the gas comp classes you could use it to drop down an index if you just cant quite get the one you normally run (because of weather or track conditions) and be right back in the hunt. Im sure staging would have to be different (deeper) .

206

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Monitoring your Glide's health

« on: January 16, 2015, 05:04:57 PM »

Yes line pressure is important. How much well that's good question with no straight answer.

To a degree the more power you make the more pressure you need to keep things "clamped". However there are some variables to consider, such as how many clutches you run and what band you run (material and width). example; 8 clutches will hold more torque load at less pressure than 5 will at a higher pressure. Most valvebody manufacturers make between 190 and 210 psi, I have seen as high as 230 psi. Too much pressure does more harm than good, it causes more wear on the pump, and robs horse power to run the pump at those high pressures. One other problem of higher pressure is the shift is not as clean. The band releases by equalizing the pressure on both sides of the apply servo, although it never truly equalizes because of servo pin making less surface area on the release side, thus the need for the spring, but as you increase pressure the pressure difference increases and over rides the spring causing the band to drag.

Ok now to checking pressures.
  Yes you check pressure at the test port in the servo in gear at an idle.
  If your pressure is correct it really only needs to checked again if your start having an issue. I check my units when first installed and again mid year just to keep records.     
 Not sure I would take the time to install one in the car, however as easy as it is to check it would be good peace of mind to check it one or twice a year.

Keeping an eye on trans temp can be useful info in tuning/predicting for your next run. But just like engine temp it's all dependent on each combination.

Different oils respond differently to temp changes, so no one answer to what temp is right. Again just like with engine temp you have to find what works best for your combo. this is why logging data is so important!

Sorry to have so long winded on this post but there are a lot of variables to consider on these two subjects. As for the pressure check with the manufacturer of your valvebody and check to see if your in their spec range, and temp thing just keep records and find what works best for your car.

Thanks for the questions and I hope this helps

Dan

207

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Powerglide Vent

« on: January 10, 2015, 11:22:32 AM »

If its a plastic one, a pair of pliers and a little wiggling will get it out. If its a metal one you may need vise grips and as they can be a little tougher to remove. Just remember your working with a 40 yo casting.

208

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Rear to trans

« on: January 08, 2015, 07:03:46 PM »

Kinda hard to tell from your picture if your chrome piece bolts on to anything other than the trans. It looks to be a cover for the drive shaft just to keep things from getting into the shaft. If it bolts to the chassis it could be being used as a limiter.

As far the blocking/removing the solenoid it depends on if it's a pro brake or not. If it's a pro brake you will need to use the solenoid to back up so blocking/removing is not an option. If it's a standard brake then you can remove the solenoid and install a modulator plug, be sure to leave the brake valve and spring in the trans.

Hope this helps,

Dan

209

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: What trans gear to run.

« on: January 08, 2015, 06:49:27 PM »

With a light weight car like a short FED I would run the 1.76 gear. As far as converters go the rule of thumb is 1000 to 1500 rpms below your shift. The lighter the car the closer to 1000 rpms below your shift you can get. I would put your combo somewhere between 5800 and 6000. guessing your somewhere around 1600 to 1700lbs.


hope this helps,

Dan

210

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Checking and adjusting PG band

« on: January 08, 2015, 12:28:55 PM »

I think you will find that most of the value body manufacturers use the same. I use a torque wrench and tighten to 72 inch pounds then back off 3 and half turns. Be sure to rotate the output shaft a couple of turns with the band loose to insure its square on the drum before setting it. I do this as the last step so the trans can be sitting on the pan. If its a new band I would check it after 10 to 15 passes. After that if you worry about those things every 50 or so, but in reality most guy go all season and never check it.    Hope this helps, Dan