Messages

196

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Footbraking Enderle hat SBC

« on: February 12, 2017, 06:10:57 AM »

I checked the idle bypass and it has a very small thin spring and you can easily blow through it. I believe it needs to be around 8-10 PSI? As it was probably closer to 1 or 0 PSI opening.

I think I am going to increase it a little at a time and adjust barrel valve as needed for the changes and hope that fixes the issue.

197

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Footbraking Enderle hat SBC

« on: February 05, 2017, 06:18:08 AM »

Let me add a few more things. It idles and takes gas (alcohol) real good and crisp. Also I have worked with barrel valve some fattening it up and leaning it down and nothing seemed to help at the higher RPM of 2400-2800.  Idle is good and high RPM is very good the problem is right at 2400-2800 launch. It even seems to run well from dead idle but can not race like that because reaction times are slow. Raise RPM up reaction times are good but creates a stumble. I did not have much test time to experiment with this at end of season and will not get much testing before season starts. We expect to get two test days weather providing. Note my converter stalls at 6300 so that is not much of an issue.

So You think I am on the right track with the smaller nozzles to increase pressure and need to add more pressure to idle return?

198

Spud Miller's Cave / Footbraking Enderle hat SBC

« on: February 04, 2017, 06:23:35 PM »

I have some questions and I think I am on the right track but since it is Winter and I can not verify it on the track stuck with bench racing.

On my Enderle hat injection works great on the trans brake with 4400 RPM chip in two step. My problem was in footbraking it for No Box classes.
I need to raise the RPM up around 2400-2800 to get good reaction times but when I do it will stumble and flat fall on its face. SBC 760 Hp Enderle hat with .038 nozzles and 60 PSI fuel pressure at finish line. What I did was lowered nozzles size to .034  and it should raise finish line fuel pressure to around 100 PSI. This is with Enderle 80-A1 pump flowed at 6.9.

I also added a small shim to the idle return but did not want to do too much there.  My data logger is reading zero at low RPM.

I believe what was happening was the fuel pressure was too low at the the hit causing the stumble. I believe the smaller nozzles will put out same peak power but at higher pressure and better fuel control at the hit with less stumble.

1. Is my thinking right there?

2. Is there anything else to do to help low RPM stumble?

3. What would be right size nozzles for foot braking a 760 HP SBC?  Not hard to get it tuned perfect on a dyno or at the finish line but a little trickier for foot braking.

199

Altereds / Re: 23 altered

« on: January 17, 2017, 03:34:02 PM »

Nice!

200

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: 4 port hilborn parts.

« on: January 15, 2017, 05:48:31 PM »

I have some sad news. Keith Dyer has passed away. Do not know the details but he was a good guy and will be missed.

201

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: injected sbc hard to start

« on: December 10, 2016, 12:15:32 PM »

Welcome to the site it is almost like already know you. Mine does not start easy and I built a primer system to help it. Turn on primer pump for a few seconds, hit starter and it starts but idles high until it comes on the pump. Then the RPM will drop and I shut off primer pump.

202

Drag Racing / Re: Which data logger for a FED?

« on: October 18, 2016, 06:24:48 PM »

I run the RPM unit and highly recommend it. Mine is set up to use some of the sensors I already had. It has 8 -O2 sensors and that has been a huge help in tuning. I have learned some things you simply can not learn on a dyno or on the track by itself. Yes, you should learn to tune but the logger gives you much better, more reliable and faster data. Big help if you can translate it all.

203

Altereds / Re: used altered

« on: September 20, 2016, 07:09:10 PM »

Okay, my opinions for what it is worth. A four link car has a better resale but can also be harder to tune the chassis. Make sure you look over car closely and look at their log book for aborted runs, consistency and performance.
If something does not look right walk away. There are many good cars out there and they are hard to get rid of if you get one with problems. Take your time and get one that will work for you.
On my car I bought a four link that I thought was a good car but later found out it had a lot of issues. The rear springs were WAY too stiff in effect making it a hard tail. That may have been the only reason it would get down the track at all because it did not have an Anti-Roll Bar and corner weights and IC was way off. Car would pull huge wheelie and make a hard right turn front wheels in the air. To resolve it first off I built a heavy duty Anti-Roll Bar and then set up chassis with some right rear preload. Then I bought new AFCO shocks and soft springs. Was still trying to pull hard wheelies so I moved IC back and up some. Now car does not try to stand straight up on the starting line. It pulls front wheels up slowly and goes straight most of the time. Once your chassis tuned right you drop wheelie bars down low to keep it under control. In the end it does not matter much if it is a hard tail or four both have advantages and disadvantages and you get what you want.
Now the reason I talk about chassis tuning on an Altered is critical. Things can get ugly quick if it is not perfect. That is also one of the reasons that an Altered is so much fun to drive, you have to pay attention and stay on top of it.

204

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Barrel Pumps

« on: August 07, 2016, 06:39:04 PM »

This is the one I would get. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-gpm-air-operated-barrel-pump-93755.html

I bought one of the plastic ones from Facebook and it cost as much and does not come with the hose, does not have a regulator or safety valve. Waste of money. Ended up costing nearly $100 and still inferior.  The one above from harbor Freight is a better deal.

205

Altereds / Re: New guy from Texas and almost finished with new car...

« on: June 03, 2016, 05:06:38 PM »

If it ever stops raining here in Texas we may get to see how the thing runs.

206

Altereds / Re: New guy from Texas and almost finished with new car...

« on: May 19, 2016, 04:01:58 PM »

Welcome to the Forum and welcome to the SHRA best racing series around.

207

Altereds / Re: 4 link starting point

« on: May 05, 2016, 04:43:07 PM »

Curly1,
Was your altered lifting the front wheels out of the beams and red lighting?
Thx
Chris

Up until last week I would have said no it does not pull front wheels out of beams but last race it certainly did and went RED. One thing the air and traction was the best I have ran this car on. Generally my car leaves the line and starts a slow power wheelie up peaking at about 12" high around the 60 foot or less, hits the wheelie bars light and it comes back down smoothly.
My four link is set up very aggressive and short so it works the rear suspension a lot but does not wheelie much and hooks good.
The AFCO shocks I use are the double adjustable (I think 14") and springs are 85 Lbs.
Let me know a little more about what your car is doing and I will try to point you in right direction. I do not  know or claim to know everything but can tell you what works on my car and why I think it works so you can try it.
If you are pulling the front tires out of the beams with out knowing much about your car I think the IC may be too long and low. That will pick up front of car. Also on the top bar if you lower it even while keeping same IC it will reduce the tendency to pull front wheels up. The top bars pull back pulling front up, lowering it reduces that leverage and tendency to wheelie. Many will add weight to front of car to prevent wheelies but I prefer to do it with chassis settings, fine tune it with wheelie bars and use a weight bar only as a last resort.
There are people who can tell you almost exactly where the four link needs to be set at on a door car but nobody really has it down perfect on an Altered.
My thinking is the Altered has more weight on the rear and center of gravity is further to the rear but the chassis is longer so it is different than a door car.

208

Altereds / Re: 4 link starting point

« on: April 24, 2016, 06:57:26 PM »

Awesome, now that you have made some passes you should now know what direction you need to go to tune the chassis. If it is going hard left then you have too much right rear preload or possibly the anti-roll bar is not neutral. Once you get it very close you can fine tune it with wheelie bars.

I set up my car somewhat different than many others, I have it set up with IC fairly short and up kind of high. Also the top bar is down fairly low. What those things do is limit the tendancy to wheelie at the hit. It will power wheelie up peaking around 60 to 80 foot out but it is smooth and easy. When the front wheels are in the air it is 1. your four link. 2. the anti-roll -bar. 3. Wheelie bars. 4. tire pressure that steers the car.  My thinking on an altered is they are like a 175 MPH unicycle under power almost all the  way down the track they have almost 100% of the weight on the rear tires when they are set up right.

Your 60 foot and MPH is good for that ET so it is working pretty good there. For your first time in one of those animals running a 5.17 had to be a blast!

209

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hard to start

« on: April 18, 2016, 06:22:32 PM »

They can be a pain in the tail even with a primer system. It took me a while to get my primer set right and the timing on it right to make it start. Now I have to hit primer for about 3 seconds and then hit starter switch and it will fire but will not stay running with out primer until pump kicks in about 5 to 10 seconds. I tried gasoline and E-85 but plain old alcohol seems to work best in my primer system.
It just takes a little time to get it set up right.

210

Altereds / Re: 4 link starting point

« on: April 09, 2016, 06:27:15 PM »

Let me know after your testing and then you can fine tune it from there. If the chassis is not just right with an Altered it can be an evil animal. I think you have my number so you can call me if you have any more questions and I will try to help as best I can.