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Messages - cad500justin

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16
Front Engine Dragsters / Zoomie size?
« on: February 21, 2018, 08:49:23 PM »
I need to build new zoomies for the new motor. Because the new heads have a different bolt pattern.
529” injected alky/nitro 7000rpm limit
1.88 exhaust valve

Anyone ever try step tube zoomies? My current ones are 1-7/8-2” and work fine, but no dyno numbers to compare to.

I’m leaning toward 2” step to 2-1/8”, roughly 18” oal? (Old ones are 25”oal) But could go bigger? Could just do one size tubing without a step?

Anyone ever play with stainless for zoomies? 

17
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Anyone running early olds engined feds?
« on: February 21, 2018, 08:45:35 PM »
My car had a gene Adams olds motor in it before I got it. The previous owner was lacking in skil/intelligence/ and money and blew it up twice then sold the car to me. Call gene, he is a wealth of knowledge.

18
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED Tire Recommendations
« on: February 21, 2018, 08:42:08 PM »
I run the same Goodyear’s (I got  them from Jon a while ago) very happy with them.
Whoa, never thought about taller rims, woulda thought the added weight/inertia would slow the car down but I guess tricking the beams is worth it.

19
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / LSM Engineering
« on: February 21, 2018, 12:10:31 PM »
Anyone had dealings with them lately? They have my cam blank and have suddenly quit returning my calls and emails. I don’t want to order pistons until I know what the cam will be.

20
Give bill at GZ motorsports a call, All he does is sell vacuum pumps.
https://www.gzmotorsports.com/


It’s not a small block, but this is how mine was setup.

21
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Angry cadillac engine.
« on: January 27, 2018, 01:43:29 PM »
While sitting on the couch watching tv with my wife who had fallen asleep I decided to check Racing junk for cadillac parts. Lo and behold I found I guy selling parts I didn’t know existed. I ended up buying a pallet of parts from this guy that does tractor pulling with a god-danged cadillac 500.
Billet 4.400 moldex crank
Aluminum main caps/girdle
Aluminum heads, no water jackets, ti intake valves, raised runner, professionally ported with flow numbers
Blank LSM solid roller cam with provisions to drive a Hilborn pump
Gear drive and timing cover that accepts a hilborn pump

I have a block that is filled with epoxy, machined for roller cam bearings, and modified to accept (king) Pontiac main bearings which is what the crank is setup for. Riolo Racing near sac did the work.

My plan is to run NE/1  7.60 index on alcohol (roughly 15-16:1 cr) but down the road change pistons and put it into a different fed to make some hits on %80+ nitro. Supposedly nobody has been quicker than 7.90ish with a (blown) Cadillac RED.  I’d like to reset that number well into the 6’s with a NA motor in a FED.

My old motor was showing wear from inadequate oiling, so this one will be a dry sump. I’m leaning towards a Dailey pump. He supports his older stuff unlike Peterson and appears to have better technology than moroso, etc. But I’ve never built a dry sump system before. I don’t know how many stages to run, what filter(s), oil tank capacity,  plumbing tricks, etc. This is my current dilemma, any help would be appreciated. Certainly budget is a concern, I’ve found used Dailey pumps on the web, and I have the ability to make my own tank, etc.

22
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Justin and my copper cadillac
« on: January 26, 2018, 07:24:57 AM »
Hey guys! Long time occasional lurker, finally getting around to building a new motor, thought I’d drop in and ask a few questions.





My old motor: 500” caddy, 12:1, .600 hydraulic tappet cam, h-beam rods. Ran consistent 8.60’s on alky till I wore its ass out.
I’ll post the new motor details in another thread, but I’m staying Cadillac and it will be angrier.

23
Bitchin! 15" rear wheels seem wide to me for a FED.

24
Events / Re: Nostalgia Race in Redding CA for KAN
« on: April 21, 2017, 06:23:38 PM »
Yahoo! See you guys on I-5 Friday morning.

25
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Exhaust pipes, what to use...
« on: February 09, 2017, 11:18:28 AM »

26
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Exhaust pipes, what to use...
« on: February 09, 2017, 10:30:56 AM »
Run zoomies. You can find them regularly. It's not how fast you go, it's how you go fast. That's why you're building a fed and not a red. You can always put a blower on it later....
I imagine most of the dragster zoomies you find will be pretty close to optimal length, unless you're looking for that last .01
You could always buy a long set, and once the car is sorted out, start hacking an inch at a time until she slows down. I halfway wonder if the added weight of longtube collector headers would offset the hp difference of shorty zoomies?

27
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...
« on: February 07, 2017, 09:47:17 AM »
Old cars just aren't as well thought out, so things don't always make sense.
Although they sometimes look cooler.

 I have had to deal with more design/failure issues with a "modern design" chassis verses a traditional designed and newly constructed one. There is no function superiority to either of them, it just comes down to the builders tooling and skill level on which design he choses to build. Old style cars are old from age and  material specs, not by design

Thanks for the info.

28
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...
« on: February 06, 2017, 11:03:43 PM »
Hey guys, I'm a bit of a lurker here. I'll post an intro when I get a min. But I'd like to chime in on my chassis experience.

My car was originally built in '71, it's been front halved and back halved leaving only about 2' in the middle of ugly work.

Chassis cracks are not something to be too concerned with when buying a used fed as long as you're buying a good car. Hopefully you have a mill, lathe, and tig welder. I couldn't imagine racing without them.
The problems I've encountered with an older car are:
The shoulder hoop is really narrow (I barely fit) making it harder to sell should I ever want to.
The motor is really far back making the car want to wheel stand and more difficult to remove the tranny. (Mine is 30-1/2" out, I have a shorty glide, with a shorty coupler, right into the rear end.
Most older cars were built with Chrysler 8-3/4" rear ends. This is good and bad, they're lighter and use less hp than ford, but there's less gear ratios available. A bit of a problem for me with a low redline rpm.
If the frame rails were used for breathers, alcohol and moisture may have rotted the inside of the frame in places.
It would be too much work to make this car cert to 6.0 so I am limited to 7.50.
Old cars just aren't as well thought out, so things don't always make sense.
Although they sometimes look cooler.
Spin the front tires and look for flat spots in the rims. New hoops ain't cheap.

My advice is to buy the most modern lightweight car you can afford. Parts will be easier to get. It takes less hp to go fast in a light car. Less hp is less maint and less money. Maybe look for a guy that runs jr fuel and is upgrading to an on-kill N&P chassis.
If you don't have a good trailer, in the long run, it will probably be cheaper to buy someone's whole operation with spares, etc. all those little things add up to time and money.
See if it comes with a chassis stand.
Fwiw, if you get an altered, you can also run in a,b,c gas if they don't have the NE classes. And altereds fit in standard garages and trailers. But dragsters are sexier ;)
When you do finally get a chassis. Take it all the way apart-every single nut and bolt. Literally. You want everything that is wrong with that car to be your fault. Not the last guy's. Lord knows I found a few things that might have literally killed me.
I stripped the paint off the chassis too so I could look everything over carefully.

Good luck in your adventures.

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