Messages

1411

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Enderle barrel valve adjustment question

« on: August 07, 2014, 10:57:30 AM »

Not sure richening is correct way to go.Normally a slight lean would have lots of response. Will to rich might have stumble. 28% is very close in the ball park. Is sytem just rich?

Heck try 2 maybe 3 flats thats pretty big move IMO if does not work go back then 2 flats over direction.Remember theres plenty of fuel sitting there when you open barrle to full flow engine has to pull air in to mix with it .Its not like a crapurator where the incoming air pulls fuel.

 Without knowing full system its hard to say how to tune it with a edumacated guess.Pump size nozzle size  and main jet all play into it.

1412

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Helpful advice for first timer?

« on: August 07, 2014, 10:24:38 AM »

It is funny how your perspective change with more speed. My firs car ran 6.30 1/8 first season.2nd year was running 5.90 with few new parts.Broke the 5.13 reargeart and swapped in a 4.86 dropped it back to 6.19.Man I thought I could get out  run faster on foot.

Now going from 5.70 1/4 TA/D car to a hopefully high six second car.MAybe the front engine vs rearengine will help keep the fun meter up there. Those sub 6 second runs get costly quick.

1413

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Helpful advice for first timer?

« on: August 06, 2014, 04:16:55 PM »

yeap and she sounds bad a  oops almost got introuble there.LOL Was affraid might not have enough to win that round so I hit the laughing gas button. Ok now back to the original programing.

1414

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Aluminum rod lifespan.

« on: August 06, 2014, 03:28:16 PM »

Totally T
With the low RPM you mentioned I think you could use a set for a long time. I have built dozens of Big Block Mopars with BME aluminum rods for bracket racers--before we had aftermarket blocks they helped keep stock blocks from breaking once we had Indy heads etc and started really making some decent HP for stock blocks--We used to get 400-500 runs easy with those turning no more than 7000 RPM.
I have always been of the opinion that aluminum rods need a good warm up before racing. BME says un-torque aluminum rods over the winter or when stored--we Never did this ever and could get 500 plus runs. My experience tells me in your application you could run them a very long time betting you don't get near as many runs as average bracket racer --many will see 300 runs in a year.
Follow the mfg's specs on bearing clearance, warm them up good before racing, torque them with a quality inspected tq wrench using the EXACT lube as outlined by the rod maker and let er rip tater chip--no worry.
Now..If you are turning big RPM and making big HP then you know... that they should be replaced much more often.
BME offers racers inspection, correction, and some piece of mind if you send them in--always better to let THEM do any of that than regular machine shop on alum rods IMO.

Bill Miller swear leaving rods torqued over winter with oil will cause a catlyist  and rods will crack,or so he told me was reason for one blown engine and other had 4 out of 8 with cracks at bolt holes.This was in the last set of BME rods we ever bought. Guess brooksb 88 had different aluminum as it was never issue with their rods.

1415

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / bench racing time what will it make

« on: August 06, 2014, 03:24:29 PM »

Building 526 TFX Hemi for my FED.Have been playing with desktop dyno.Normally its pretty dang close given correct info. Seems its estimates are high this time for what I would expect. So lets get a few guess as to what yout think out put would be.

 4.310 bore
 4.500 crank
 7.196 rods
 13:1  compression total seal low drag rings
 BAE heads fuel style 2.375/2.00
stage 5 roller rockers
 Sheetmetal intake w/
 enderle injection
 mag 12
282/278@.050  116cL .800 lift roller cam

 give it a shot  winner gets high 5 by the way.Down side will not know for sure real answer for while but maybe idea if I am off or program is off. Heck hopefully me.

1416

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: fastest et

« on: August 06, 2014, 01:55:03 PM »

yea but be warned you can be moved down that list pretty quick.My last alky dragster pass is around 225  or so.But hey it was 16 years ago. Nothing money can't fix. Dang I love the ride in blower car.Real blower not that under drive stuff.Sorry Glenn couldn't resist,didn't try too hard though.LOL

1417

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Helpful advice for first timer?

« on: August 06, 2014, 01:51:38 PM »

Still to make a pass in FED. With my TA/D I did pretty much the same a license deal.Stage drop hammer and shut dwon around 60' then 330 and then I went full track ,well about 100o foot and popped blower. DO IT AT YOUR PACE and forget what everyone else thinks.They did not pay for it and any idiot can hold a throttle down, it takes adriver to know when its time to lift and bring her back for next run.
 I use to sit in car and make practice runs doing every thing just like a run from firing to hitting chutes .Might seem stupid to some,but it does seem it should help program brain for automatic reflex.


 Have fun this crap cost too much money and work not to enjoy it some.

1418

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Aluminum rod lifespan.

« on: August 04, 2014, 06:34:24 AM »

Yea the rpm you run has HUGE effect on number of runs.Most of the time its rod bolts that are issue more than rods. Some of the bracket guys mostly BBC have told me thet get 500 runs out of a set,turning 7500 range for the most part. Thats pushing it in my opion. I would have no issues running them 200 runs if rpm stayed below 8000 for most of the runs. Now uif spinning it I would say 100 and change.When you consider what they destroy on the way out its not worth pushing them to the limit.How do you know limit ,that one run before they came out.

1419

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: fastest et

« on: August 04, 2014, 06:28:42 AM »

welcome. Not sure fastest pass with blower I know Scott Parks went 6.77@197 with 383 injected alky. Yea was not a cheap SBC needless to say.

1420

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: hoses for burn down breathers

« on: July 29, 2014, 03:20:26 PM »

x3 Home depot

1421

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: First Front Engine Dragster?

« on: July 23, 2014, 09:45:48 AM »

heck of rollout!

1422

Drag Racing / Re: Top dragster qualifying from Epping

« on: July 22, 2014, 12:34:22 PM »

More blower cars in T/D than TA/D now days. What no blue and white FED? Saw a cpl fed's but seems to be missing one.

1423

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: New tire recommendations for our FED

« on: July 22, 2014, 12:23:29 PM »

needless to say have not tried them out. From comments I have gotten I am almost expecting one of those brain rattling tire shaking deals from my TA/D. You know you get out of car still half blind ,head about to explode.

1424

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: New tire recommendations for our FED

« on: July 21, 2014, 07:51:09 PM »

Bill,

 You said you had them on last year.What did you go with this year? I have a set of Hoosiers right now that are used.Have bad feeling I am not going to like them for same reason you stated.I have had cpl others say same thing. Going to try them anyway,heck will not be first $150 I threw away.

1425

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FEDs on trailers

« on: July 19, 2014, 04:48:13 AM »

IMO if you are going to buy a frame to build a trailer on you would be better off building it all. That way you get everything the way you want it from start.Most of the time converting something to work for you needs ends up costing more in the long run. If building to get by the frame you have located may work and you can build on final deal as you go.I t does lok very questionable on carry much of load and could need some rails thru center section.My biggest issue with one your looking at would be the front hitch area ,looks like rial have hole stamped in them .If so I would figure cost of replacing as part of cost for trailer.Have broken hitch at trailer before its not fun day,I got lucky and nobody or any thing got hurt.

  Not living where you do I have no idea how available material is or how readily available trailer parts are.Here I can drive few miles and pickup most everything needed. I figure me building one will sve a little but I can do it in stages.Open trailer for while and then enclose it later. With my ar being 225" I figure Im going to need 28' minimum and probably going with 32' because while building the extra 4' will have very little ectra cost and be worth more when done.

    If you have never built a trailer take my word for it its HUGE job.