Messages

31

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Nozzle holder air bleed holes

« on: September 08, 2018, 05:12:47 PM »

 Besides helping to break up the stream for better idle and allowing idle air in, the holes also serve as a vacuum break. With the vacuum pulling on the fuel without a hole there, it can suck a BUNCH more fuel into the engine. Things generally change drastically in regard to idle leakdown if you tape the holes off. Big adjustments needed.

They aren't critical in a supercharged engine...when a guy has way too big of a hat on a tiny engine, you pretty much HAVE to get rid of those holes to make it work or you'll never get the idle down.

 In a naturally aspirated engine where the nozzles are in the runner, it really helps to have them - even if they're smaller than the standard 1/8" hole.

 Related story: I tried getting rid of them on my car last summer to see what would happen...I was hoping for better idle control. We start and warm the car up on a bottle. Usually we get 2 minutes or so on a small bottle of methanol WITH the nozzle body holes. I put bodies in without the holes and it was literally out of fuel in about 12 seconds...it SUCKED the fuel out of the bottle instead of letting it gravity feed. I could have made the nozzles much smaller and probably made it work, but I put the bodies with holes back in and got our 2 minutes back. Also it idles much smoother and more even idle temps across the board with the holes when on the bottle.

 Bottom line is, I do think they are optional but even when properly adjusted to suit either way, you might find idle quality and temps are better with them. But of course that's only at idle. At race speed, they are irrelevant for sure.

 Spud

32

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Mag Wires and Computers

« on: August 25, 2018, 03:20:14 PM »

 Anytime there are any electronics involved, then I recommend a RACING suppression core plug wire. 40 to 50 ohms a foot is for racing. 150 ohms per foot is street car stuff and can hurt your cap and rotor. In the case of a Vertex it can hurt the internal coil too.

 The only real reason to run solid core wire is longevity. Unless you slice it or melt it, solid core lasts forever. The suppression core stuff WEARS OUT electrically. If you have electronics, it's worth replacing your plugs wires every other season and your coil wire a couple of times a season.

 Spud

33

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Spud electric lean out volume

« on: August 25, 2018, 03:16:24 PM »

 If you aren't having an issue (slow 60's), then I'd say no need to throw parts at it. Keeping it simple is a good thing.

 If your 60' sucks and you see your EGT's are taking a big dip while staged, then the valve is a great solution.

 Spud

34

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Spud electric lean out volume

« on: August 20, 2018, 02:27:41 PM »

 Most people using it for that purpose run a 70 or 75 pill in it.

 If you leave the pill out of it, I'm sure it'll flow MORE than enough to do the job 

 Spud

35

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Misbehaving plug wires

« on: August 01, 2018, 09:51:43 AM »

 I'd never seen these types of problems before a few months ago, but it could be a change in the points boxes too. Every one of these cases was indeed with MSD wire, but I have no reason to believe it couldn't be a problem with other brands of similar wire. All brands of suppression core wire wear out with use eventually.

 There were quite a few reasons for us switching to Taylor wire, but probably none of which would be the culprit in this case.

 I wouldn't be a bit afraid to use your brand new sets of MSD wire.

 Spud

36

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Misbehaving plug wires

« on: July 31, 2018, 12:01:04 PM »

 The insulation isn't bad...it isn't shorting out anywhere. There aren't any dropped cylinders, instead it messes with timing in a big way which is a delay function and related to the smarts in the points box. And it isn't just a timing light phenomena in the pits...the cars really RUN BAD. So the timing strangeness is real. It's a mystery.

 Spud

37

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Misbehaving plug wires

« on: July 31, 2018, 09:51:52 AM »

 Nope this isn't a Super-mag issue...this is only with Pro-mags. They are VERY sensitive to bad or overused wires due to the solid state components in the points box.

 In the situations referred to, the wires tested good. But they were the problem.

 Spud

38

Spud Miller's Cave / Misbehaving plug wires

« on: July 30, 2018, 09:44:12 AM »

 Since someone brought it up in another thread...I have MANY Promag "bad plug wire" stories this season so far.

 Behavior that you'd never suspect and it's the suppression core race wire that the electronic mags require. People don't understand that it wears out! It looks perfectly fine and good but electrically, it's a nightmare. It might check out fine and seem normal with the ohm meter, but when they're changed out for a new set, everything is happy and normal again. Even if you can't explain why, it's difficult to argue with results!

 So, if your Promag ends up having strange timing and phasing issues that don't make sense, timing lights freaking out, points boxes not working right...save yourself some time and change the plug wires first!

 Spud

39

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: SPud tunnel ram spool?

« on: July 26, 2018, 08:45:34 PM »

 Unlike the cube metering valve, the K-valve is NOT meant to be used with a blank pill in it for naturally aspirated applications. A supercharged deal has a ton more fuel going through it at idle and that extra hole "jumps the pill" at idle and gets rid of excess idle fuel. It blasts through that hole you're missing, and straight across in front of the pill and out the idle check valve along with what shoots through the pill. As soon as you open the throttle, that circuit is closed and the main pill is it. That circuit isn't used in naturally aspirated...the pumps for those setups are much smaller and the idle check valve is generally set at only a couple of PSI for those. Not a ton of flow to deal with. I think if you drilled that hole, your idle setup would change quite a bit from it.

 Drilling a hole to bypass to the pump saver at wide open throttle is a little scary unless you are only using it strictly for an electronic high-speed sort of port. A simple tee anywhere in the system would also do that and add the benefit of helping to bleed off fuel when the throttle closes at high RPM just like a pump saver (if you're using a regular spring loaded check valve). If you supply it through a WOT hole like you mentioned, then it can't help you that way.

 We carry spools with no slot and no holes at all for people that like to do their own thing. I've not seen a notched version with no holes, but they probably have them. Give Enderle a call and see what they have or buy a blank from us and see what you can do!

 Spud

40

Spud Miller's Cave / Catching up

« on: July 26, 2018, 08:04:05 PM »

 Hi Guys,

 It all started when I was displaced from my home office for a couple of weeks...I got out of the habit of checking here every morning first thing. Then I shifted to reading the morning news, tweets, etc. on my phone in the morning instead. I'm not a forum user on my smart phone. Then I took a vacation and forgot everything (that was nice). Came back buried in work and the minute my butt hits the chair in the shop office every morning, it's scramble-scramble.

Sorry I neglected my cave! I'm playing catch up and will get back in the habit. Thanks for taking care of each other here in my absence. I just replied to months old stuff and didn't realize the date on it.....water long since passed under the bridge I'm sure. I'll start from the top down next time!

 Spud


 

41

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Cube vs K style BV on injection setup?

« on: July 26, 2018, 07:57:52 PM »

 There is a pic of the two next to each other on the FIE webstore:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/metering-valve/products/metering-valve-rotor-k-style

A is supercharged (slot goes all the way through), B is naturally aspirated (progressively deep V groove).

If your barrel valve leakdown percentage is lower than you'd expect, it's probably because your idle (main) check valve pressure is too high. For the most part, the following works well to start with...

Supercharged: 7-10 PSI idle check valve, 70-75% leakdown
Naturally aspirated: 1-2 PSI main check valve, leakdown at 7% of the engine size in cubic inches. ie. 350 * .07 = 24%

Spud

42

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Bigger pum at----%

« on: July 26, 2018, 07:49:53 PM »

...

Spud in Nitro note you mention trans cooler.Did you use a hyd. quick coupler and just bypass when in race mode?

Yes, hydraulic quick couplers. It's just plumbed into the pan so there's no need to bypass anything...just unplug. The stuff in the pan gets cooled quickly and we roll the motor over with the starter and the plugs out to swap out what's in the converter...then run the cooler some more.

Spud

43

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Filter for MFI

« on: July 26, 2018, 07:46:24 PM »

Greg, what micron screen are you using? 

Spud?  Can you answer that? i'm not sure.  Its what he recommended.

Our filter is 63 microns.

Spud

44

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: pump test bench ? spud

« on: May 04, 2018, 08:39:01 AM »

 
 Just checking a pump for comparative flow at a particular pressure isn't a huge deal (not like flowing a complete system).

 The biggest problem you'll have is finding a motor and power source big enough to make the horsepower you need to do it. I burned up MANY motor controllers and motors (literally flames a couple of times). A -1 pump running at 100 PSI will require 2-3 HP at the spindle. A 110 pump @ 100 PSI will need 6-7 HP. To keep the power requirements low, consider checking at a slower RPM (not 4000 pump RPM) and a lower pressure (like 50 PSI, not 100).

 Since flow is going to be directly related to speed, your RPM reading being off just a little will result in inaccurate flow readings. Conquer speed measurement and control up front or it probably isn't worth doing.

 Try to stay away from 240VAC as you'll be working with water and probably standing in a puddle of it most of the time. If a hose blew and shot water everywhere, you could easily be electrocuted.

 Spud

 

45

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: What size lines on an Enderle 110 pump

« on: April 27, 2018, 09:07:16 AM »

 The big body pumps (110, 990, 1100, 1200, 1270) all have a -12 ORB inlet and a -8 ORB outlet.