Messages

16

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: 16 nozzles pressure

« on: January 27, 2019, 11:22:44 AM »

 Pressure is determined by total area of nozzles and bypasses (or leaks) in the system and the specific gravity of the fuel.

16 nozzles of the same area as 8 would be identical pressure. Atomization would be better as the droplets/streams would be smaller. Might not be a noticeable gain in performance however. It usually isn't.

 One thing that can get you is that different orifice types that are the same size don't flow the same. The lead-in on the hole, the length of the hole, the surface finish of the hole - all determine actual flow. So, you might have an Enderle .032, a Hilborn #16 and a Kinsler 620...all should be pretty much the same area calculation-wise, but they don't flow the same...close, but not the same. Flow testing them would be one way to get good numbers for them.

 For example, some place (like FIE) could test your 8 @ 100 PSI/.792 SG and conclude that they flow 1.51 GPM.

 The 16 you chose to replace them with might flow 1.63 GPM. Among other things, that would tell you that the main pill size for the new nozzles will need to be slightly larger to drop the system pressure a few pounds to make the GPM output equal to the original 8.

 Spud

17

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: grounding mag

« on: January 03, 2019, 05:06:34 PM »

 Yes, good point on the master disconnect mag kill...

 For points mags I recommend one of these to ground the ignition when the master switch is thrown:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/kill-switches/products/mag-kill-relay-for-use-with-ignition-switch

 For Pro mags, one of these works terrific:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/kill-switches/products/remote-changeover-kill-switch-for-msd-mags

 Spud

 

18

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: grounding mag

« on: January 03, 2019, 10:00:33 AM »

 Ultimately, the mag is defeated when the positive coil terminal is shorted with the negative coil terminal. The best mag ground is the other side of the coil.

 Instead of running a single wire from the (+) coil terminal to the kill switch and then grounding the other side of the kill switch to the chassis or another local component, run 2 wires from the coil...one (+) and one (-). Attach one to each kill switch terminal. That's as good as it gets.

 Spud

19

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Time for some changes

« on: December 02, 2018, 10:42:23 AM »

 I don't have any experience with gas ports, but I don't think they're a good thing for use with nitro.  I've heard that running a gapless top ring isn't good with that either. Something about fuel getting trapped between the rings and causing flutter. That's probably at high percentages and volumes however.

 At 30%, I think most of the rules for methanol still apply but I would call and talk to the ring experts.

 Spud

20

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Time for some changes

« on: December 01, 2018, 11:08:11 AM »

If I am going to make this change over to small percentage work I need to make some changes to my motor ! I am replacing my pistons so I might as well get the right parts ! I had 14.5 compression and my plan is to run about 30 percent so I am thinking about 12.5 ? I used .043 top and second rings with a total seal gapless top ring ! I also had gas ported pistons ! Bad idea ? Never had a bad plug reading but I did lift a ring land on one piston ! i put athicker head gasket on it and I think that may have led to the ring land lifting  my total deck was .072 ! I will go back to the .041 gasket !I am crossing the finish line at 9600 rpm so I think a gear change will help too ! Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks Bill

Yes, I think 12.5 should be ok for 30%. I like the gear change idea too...no need to spin it so tight if you can make the power down low.

 Spud

21

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: nitro and high gear only pg

« on: November 15, 2018, 05:17:42 PM »

 Leaving in high gear will definitely load it good, but your 60's will be crap. It's hard on tranny fluid and converters too. Instead of leaving in high gear with nitro, try some different rear gears. The best of both worlds...more load and a good 60 while using the tranny low gear.
 
 Some 2.91's will load it good

 Spud

 

22

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: New 6 cylinder Magneto: Super-Mag IV

« on: November 01, 2018, 08:43:21 AM »

Are they for even-fire (inline sixes) or odd fire (many V6s)?

The mag makes 6 evenly spaced pulses per revolution...60 degrees apart.

Spud

23

Spud Miller's Cave / New 6 cylinder Magneto: Super-Mag IV

« on: October 25, 2018, 05:11:47 PM »

 (Also posted in the 6-cylinder section)

 Hello,

I just wanted to drop in here and let every one know that in 4-6 weeks, we'll have brand new 6 cylinder Super-Mag IV magnetos for sale! These are points-style, external coil mags making 4 amps average (about 10 amps peak). They're the standard band-clamp type generator like the regular Super-Mag series that we have been manufacturing for over 7 years now.

Mallory never offered a 6 cylinder version and neither has MSD. Vertex quit making their 6 cylinder mag a number of years ago. Our Australian dealer convinced me to build some 6's and try them since 6-bangers are a hot item over there. So, we're doing a "limited production run" of these to see how they sell.

At this point, we have no lower drives ready for any of the 6's. We're happy to take distributors from customers, measure them up and get some of the popular drives made and offered that way.

Also, mainly because of these 6's and their eventual and intended use in Australia, we've reintroduced the advance weights that Mallory once offered for the magnetos. They allow an advance curve in the lower drive, mainly to make starting easier. We have 10, 14, 18, 22 and 26 degrees available.

Thank you!
Spud

24

Six Cylinder Drag Vehicles / New 6 cylinder Magneto: Super-Mag IV

« on: October 25, 2018, 05:10:00 PM »

 Hello,

I just wanted to drop in here and let every one know that in 4-6 weeks, we'll have brand new 6 cylinder Super-Mag IV magnetos for sale! These are points-style, external coil mags making 4 amps average (about 10 amps peak). They're the standard band-clamp type generator like the regular Super-Mag series that we have been manufacturing for over 7 years now.

Mallory never offered a 6 cylinder version and neither has MSD. Vertex quit making their 6 cylinder mag a number of years ago. Our Australian dealer convinced me to build some 6's and try them since 6-bangers are a hot item over there. So, we're doing a "limited production run" of these to see how they sell.

At this point, we have no lower drives ready for any of the 6's. We're happy to take distributors from customers, measure them up and get some of the popular drives made and offered that way.

Also, mainly because of these 6's and their eventual and intended use in Australia, we've reintroduced the advance weights that Mallory once offered for the magnetos. They allow an advance curve in the lower drive, mainly to make starting easier. We have 10, 14, 18, 22 and 26 degrees available.

Thank you!
Spud

25

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: starting point leanout

« on: October 16, 2018, 09:16:47 AM »

 You might end up at a .070 but I sure wouldn't start there. A .060 should be safe and then lean from there.

 Spud

26

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Acetone in methanol - good or bad idea

« on: October 02, 2018, 10:01:44 AM »

 I have no experience adding acetone to methanol. No sure what that would do for you.

 Spud

27

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Electric shift with Mag.

« on: October 02, 2018, 09:59:31 AM »

 Yes, use a relay with that and you can do anything. Here's our new relay with socket:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/magneto-accessories/products/heavy-duty-relay

The tach pulse generator won't activate anything...it only makes a tach signal. You need something receiving that signal to make the RPM decision. The MSD RPM Activated switch (#8950) works great for that.

 You could also use a crank trigger pickup to feed the RPM activated switch a speed signal. A crank trigger puts out a nice, reliable signal. Better than converters or pulse generator boxes.

 Spud

28

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: lookin for help, eh

« on: October 02, 2018, 09:53:15 AM »

 Yup, I agree with Curly1. The main pill is really only relevant for wide-open throttle use. Is this gas or methanol? The #14 nozzles tell me probably (hopefully) methanol...

If you really want to just idle it off a trailer a block away and idle it to the cruise-in, then I'd just throw a .090 main pill in it, adjust the idle to make good temperature on the headers (350-450F) and good throttle response. I'd set the leakdown to 27% or so to start with and adjust from there for exhaust temperature.

Having an O2 sensor as Curly1 mentioned is a HUGE help if you can. You can get an O2 setup now pretty danged cheap.

Anything partial throttle, off-idle (like driving down the road) is going to be wrong and probably lean. There isn't really anything that can be done about that short of trial and error. At least an O2 display would allow you to try different adjustments to find something "sort of happy" for cruising. Boiling it over (lean) or ruining your oil and suffering severe cylinder wear (rich) are what you will fight.

You could get it converted it to EFI pretty reasonably. Here's a link to our "Old School" setup (no fuel rails). We can also convert YOUR casting to EFI for a bunch less money than this complete new system:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/efi/products/old-school-hemi-enderle-stack-fast-efi-system-complete

 Spud

29

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Fuel Contamination

« on: September 11, 2018, 02:50:57 PM »

 Killing weeds.

30

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Fuel Contamination

« on: September 11, 2018, 10:30:17 AM »

 Yuck...anything with more than a percent or two and I wouldn't use it.

 When it gets moisture in it, it turns acidic and sets up a chemical reaction that can etch your fittings and ruin stuff quickly.

 Spud