FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: Scottmech on April 10, 2016, 05:26:08 PM
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New to the forums. Been running a street legal blown altered for a few years, but just picked up we believe is a 137" Woody jr fuel chassis from the mid 60's....but has been updated for 7.50 cert.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii628/Scott_Shiffler/IMG_0693_zpscdx1dbd6.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/Scott_Shiffler/media/IMG_0693_zpscdx1dbd6.jpg.html)
Anywhoo.......I may have to make a new seat to sit me a little further down. The current pan is pop riveted to the upper frame tube and one tube on each side at the fwd edge.
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii628/Scott_Shiffler/IMG_0705_zpsd8sxw2of.jpg) (http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/Scott_Shiffler/media/IMG_0705_zpsd8sxw2of.jpg.html)
Will this pass tech at an NHRA track? If not, what constitutes a "securely mounted" seat? I really couldn't find much in the NHRA rules for FED's. Seemed it was more meant for door cars and such. Thanks.
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Not the way most people do it, but you are fine
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(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/tcoupekyle/20160413_171722.jpg) (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/tcoupekyle/media/20160413_171722.jpg.html)
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Not to be a hijacker, but I thought this fits. Would a seat position like this be ok?
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As long as you are comfortable and get the belts anchored correctly
And speaking of belts with this set-up , being reclined as this picture shows, I would not use the single crotch strap and use the "V" type to hold you in. The chance of submarineing would increase in a crash with the single and injure parts of the body that one does not want injured
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Dreracecar, what about the tube position? Does more tubing need to be ran under the seat? I read 2.4b spec on it but, I didn't understand it.
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Has the chassis ever been certed before to 2.4 spec. by NHRA ?
What did you not understand about the spec?
Really hard to make an assesment just by that pic alone---eveything is covered up
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It had nhra cert to 7.49 or slower I think that is 2.6 spec? Not really trying to go faster than that. I just had access to the 2.4 spec when I was working on it yesterday.
The question I have is does the seat need to be supported in the back by tubing?
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I'm changing the seat cause, with the seat that was in it when I bought the car I can't reach the pedals.
(http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg245/tcoupekyle/20160413_170740.jpg) (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/tcoupekyle/media/20160413_170740.jpg.html)
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Where the recline in the seat is there's nothing there the other seat went flat.
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No spec requiring tubing to follow contour of the seat.
There may be an issue of the crotch belt hanging below the bottom of the chassis tho
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Thank you
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Most cars I have owned and all the cars I've built have a seat strap. This is a steel strip .062 to .125 thick & one to two inches wide. This is welded to the shoulder hoop or the seat belt bar just below the shoulder hoop, the strap then follows the seat contour to the lower seat support bar at the front of the seat and welded to it. I form this strap to the driver then build the seat to follow the strap. The strap adds a lot of support to the seat.
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I'm changing the seat cause, with the seat that was in it when I bought the car I can't reach the pedals.
Wouldn't it be easier to move the pedals?
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I like that idea van.
I'd move the pedals but, the housing axle tube is right under my calves if I sit in the original seat.
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Oh yes understand that
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When I bought my car it basically had a piece of sheet metal that wrapped around the back and sides (one piece) and a piece of metal pop riveted to the lower tubes for a bottom. It put your butt so low in the car that I had to have a new seat made. We moved the rear end housing forward and down a bit to give me a better fit in the car. This made for a lot more work (motor plates etc) but being comfortable in the car is key to good lights , good driving and safety (or so they tell me). Do what you have to do to make it the best fit for you. Secure mounting is really a cross bar along the bottom leading edge of the seat and a tube or plate curved from that tube to the rear structure to follow the lower seat area. Great places to mount zeus buttons too.
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Pics of the original seat(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/ec4e6825e19f0986c706736ed386c9f6.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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New seat(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/872c3dcd2fc87338a50a7bf848e6642a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/8d6cf13129981260c702023d4b75c399.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/fbd4db98b4bf5675f9c1bc75ee785415.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Right on
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What kind of aluminum do ya'll use to build seats? And bodies?
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If any forming needs to done then 3003H14 for flat stuff with minimal forming the its 5052H32
3003 forms well and you can aneal it back soft after it work hardens whereas 5052 does not aneal so simple forming with a brake or roll is all you can do, its really stiff and 30% harder to work then 3003, but you can get away with using .040
Depending on welding skills .050 is 50% harder to weld than .063
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Depending on welding skills .050 is 50% harder to weld than .063
Just so nobody takes this as gospel, it does say it depends on welding skills. The 50% number is meaningless, depending on your skill level it could be 0 to 100% harder to weld than .063.