76
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Top Fuel car in wall
« on: August 22, 2019, 06:29:17 PM »
That was a really nice car. Hope you get it back together soon.
FEDs Forever!
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77
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: August 21, 2019, 04:52:18 PM »
Chris, you got a trailer now have you ran the car yet?
78
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel tank to fuel pump elevation
« on: July 22, 2019, 10:59:10 AM »
The pump can draw fuel up some but you do want to make it easy as possible. I think it is always difficult to make a MFI system start nice and clean on alcohol. They are touchy, too much alcohol it floods and does not want to start. Same if there is not enough fuel. Mechanical injection dumps a lot of Fuel at low RPM because it does not have pump shot. And alcohol is harder to start in colder weather. Mine runs better when motor is hot but is harder to start. So you are trying to get the right fuel mixture to get it started and run.
79
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 12:44:25 PM »
I also agree with very tight seat belts but that is on any car I drive.
As for consistency my dragster is good now that I have got most of the bugs worked out. The problem is the shut down area on most tracks that is not an issue with all the other cars I have drove.
As for consistency my dragster is good now that I have got most of the bugs worked out. The problem is the shut down area on most tracks that is not an issue with all the other cars I have drove.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 11:14:28 AM »
There are a lot of tracks around here with rough or short shut down areas. Not worth crashing the car. My dragster is actually much stiffer than it was originally and still very flexible and it does not take much to make it bounce in the shut down due to flex. In fact some of the tracks I raced in my altered never even thought of the shut down area or noticed how rough it was. Same track in my dragster was a handful. Using parachute helps but who wants to do that every time?
81
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 07:24:38 AM »
Plus a FED is flexible and the chassis will not last for as many passes as a stiffer suspended car. Note we are not talking about a short, slow FED here. When you start running low 5's or faster then you need to get that chassis to working or suspension. An altered, a door car, funny car or even suspended dragster has a stiffer chassis and will last much longer. With all of the flexing a 225 inch FED has it going to break uprights, welds and stuff. And if it does not flex it probably is not going to work good. On a fast car it is hard to get chassis, tire, weight balance and everything working together right. Tire selection on a suspended car is very forgiving. On a FED it is not and I do not I do not know about you but I do not have $750 a pop to try 10 different tires to find right one that works. The MT 3074 tire was best tire ever on my altered. Does not work good on dragster at all. Same rear gear, same motor, same transmission and almost same weight yet does not work good. Luckily I have a good data logger to help me narrow down the problem.
I also agree the FED is cool and while RED 4 link dragster may be best tool for bracket racing I have no desire what so ever for one.
You can bracket race a FED but you will find it is much more of a pain in the tail. Unless your car was running something like 6 in the 1/8 mile or slower. The faster you go the harder it is going to be to make it work (unless you know someone who has already got a really good combo and closely copy it) even then they are not the same. My altered was just as fast and it was fun and easy to bracket race and I did not need any help to do it. My dragster is a whole different animal and I do not bracket race it. Too much of a pain and no fun. I think you will quickly tire of bracket racing it. But to answer your question. Yes, you could.
I also agree the FED is cool and while RED 4 link dragster may be best tool for bracket racing I have no desire what so ever for one.
You can bracket race a FED but you will find it is much more of a pain in the tail. Unless your car was running something like 6 in the 1/8 mile or slower. The faster you go the harder it is going to be to make it work (unless you know someone who has already got a really good combo and closely copy it) even then they are not the same. My altered was just as fast and it was fun and easy to bracket race and I did not need any help to do it. My dragster is a whole different animal and I do not bracket race it. Too much of a pain and no fun. I think you will quickly tire of bracket racing it. But to answer your question. Yes, you could.
82
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?
« on: July 04, 2019, 06:44:04 AM »
It has taken a year to get my FED to working good and it still is not as good as my 4 link altered was. Plus the FED really is a pain to load and unload, race etc. The 4 link altered handles much better in shut down are and stops better. There are several tracks around here that I simply can not run the dragster. The altered had no problems. The altered stopped much better than the dragster because it had front brakes but more importantly does not flex / bounce like the dragster does. So you really should throw out parachute every pass. That is not good for a bracket racer. You want to make it simple for one man to race.
You certainly can bracket race it but you will find it is much harder than a door car or 4 link car and that takes a lot of fun out of it. Much more like work and if it is any where near as hot there as it is here you do not want to make it any harder than you have to.
You certainly can bracket race it but you will find it is much harder than a door car or 4 link car and that takes a lot of fun out of it. Much more like work and if it is any where near as hot there as it is here you do not want to make it any harder than you have to.
83
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fabricated Fuel Injector
« on: June 18, 2019, 07:52:37 AM »
That is really nice trailer. I like that it is kind of Old School with new design and technology. Impressive and I really like that is was designed to be easy to use.
84
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Rear End Coupler question
« on: June 05, 2019, 11:57:07 AM »
Thanks guys, I am probably going to use a combination of your ideas.
85
Front Engine Dragsters / Rear End Coupler question
« on: June 04, 2019, 08:18:37 PM »
I have a Front Engine dragster with long tail shaft powerglide. Last year I had a wooden dowel in the yoke to keep the yoke to the correct depth in the pinion nut. That was not a good solution because you have to pull motor out to change transmission or converter. With the dowel in there you can not slide the yoke forward in the transmission so that means motor and midplate have to come out.
So this year I put two slip collars on the yoke to hold it to correct depth but it has damaged the transmission seal. Loosen the slip collars, slide yoke up in transmission then you can lift transmission out the top.
So is there any good solutions that can make it easy to remove transmission and will not hurt the seal?
A friend told me someone used to make a pinion nut for coupler that had a snap ring type deal to hold the coupler in place while running. Then to remove transmission take out snap ring, push yoke forward and then you can easily take out tranny. I have not been able to find such animal?
Mark Williams and Strange both have a quick connect yoke pinion deal but they both said the ONLY work on SHORTY transmissions. Mark Williams said my only options are put a dowel in the yoke or change transmission to a shorty, new planitaries and then use their funny car drive shaft. That would make it fairly easy to remove transmission but would cost about $2000 and would take a lot of time. Plus I would have to fabricate a large two piece drive shaft cover over it.
So this year I put two slip collars on the yoke to hold it to correct depth but it has damaged the transmission seal. Loosen the slip collars, slide yoke up in transmission then you can lift transmission out the top.
So is there any good solutions that can make it easy to remove transmission and will not hurt the seal?
A friend told me someone used to make a pinion nut for coupler that had a snap ring type deal to hold the coupler in place while running. Then to remove transmission take out snap ring, push yoke forward and then you can easily take out tranny. I have not been able to find such animal?
Mark Williams and Strange both have a quick connect yoke pinion deal but they both said the ONLY work on SHORTY transmissions. Mark Williams said my only options are put a dowel in the yoke or change transmission to a shorty, new planitaries and then use their funny car drive shaft. That would make it fairly easy to remove transmission but would cost about $2000 and would take a lot of time. Plus I would have to fabricate a large two piece drive shaft cover over it.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED & Transbrake
« on: May 22, 2019, 06:11:41 AM »
I would like to know how it runs leaving off transbrake.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: battery inside driver area
« on: April 13, 2019, 08:20:43 PM »
I have not heard of any problems with the Golitium batteries but regardless I do not think it is a good idea to put a fuel cell or battery in the drivers area. It does not weigh much at all and it is fairly small you can find some where else to put it.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: battery inside driver area
« on: April 09, 2019, 06:58:21 PM »
There have been several battery fires from Lithium batteries. I would not put it in the cockpit area if it was me no more than I would put the fuel cell in there.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: April 04, 2019, 05:43:00 AM »
On my FED I have a diaper under the motor and belly pan under rear of car that goes to back of transmission but it does not cover the pan. I am thinking of making a small pan to catch tranny fluid if anything ever happens.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: water or not
« on: April 04, 2019, 05:33:09 AM »
A lot of people run them dry on alcohol. I do not feel comfortable doing that and I bracket race sometimes to. So I run a small Honda style radiator with water pump and fan. I have complete control over water temps and it does not weigh much. Whole system including block takes less than 2 gallons of water. With this set up I do not need to be towed to the lanes and back, I can drive it all around and if I am hot lapping in later rounds my water temp stays in control. The cost is maybe an additional 20 Lbs? Well worth it to me for the security of protecting my motor and the consistency of being able to control water temps. By the way the little Honda radiator on Ebay with the fan was under $70 shipped.