Messages

331

Roo Man's Room / Re: Keep push bar or not?

« on: July 28, 2017, 07:32:07 PM »

I suppose the push bar could be made to break away in an impact, by bolting it on with aluminum fasteners or just drilled or necked down common steel ones. Then it would be an energy absorber.

332

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Engine is stiff, hard to turn over???

« on: June 21, 2017, 12:32:37 PM »

FWIW it looks as though the crack started at about the 10 O'clock position on the last photo. Maybe use a smaller journal lightening hole. And nitride. And more generous cheek radii.

333

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: The testing of new rods

« on: June 05, 2017, 02:20:27 PM »

I have broken one aluminum rod in five decades of racing. I neglected to change them and kicked one out at 294 passes (inline six, on gas).

After that I always changed them after 293 passes.


Just kidding - I switched to Oliver steel rods about ten years ago. Ran the same as with aluminum.

334

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Weight bars

« on: June 05, 2017, 01:55:23 PM »

7 inches is a bunch to move an engine, not from a weight standpoint, but a chassis design/engineering potential issues.

TRUE

I mis-spoke. I lengthened the wheelbase seven inches while moving the engine out two inches. The other five was to make room for a radiator and alternator so I could drive it around without being towed on the end of a string. I guess not having to get a tow back from the big end doesn't make it nostalgic anymore too.

335

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Anybody know what these plates are for?

« on: June 05, 2017, 01:46:59 PM »

weight bar?

low and rearward

336

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Evac

« on: May 30, 2017, 07:55:35 PM »

I do not think it will work as well as routing it to a collector where it would see a signal from all eight cylinders instead of two. It may have trouble keeping up with the positive pressure build-up in the crankcase. Having said that - its on the car; try it. It may work well enough to work well enough.

337

Roo Man's Room / Re: More wheelie bar questions

« on: May 25, 2017, 07:22:03 PM »

Curious - what are everyone's thoughts are on single-vs-two wheel bars? I've used both and aside from the weight savings of a single (sprung) setup I've had success with both.

338

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Powerglide Cable Adjustment

« on: May 24, 2017, 06:44:19 AM »

Mine does, especially when the engine/trans is cold. I attribute it to viscous drag internally, as I can easily stop the car from rolling by putting a hand on the tire, or dragging the brake slightly. If it is significantly more than that I'd look for some misalignment in the drivetrain somewhere.

339

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Weight bars

« on: May 15, 2017, 08:59:17 AM »

FULL DISCLOSURE: I should have mentioned I DID front-half the entire chassis - after an intimate head-on encounter with a seductive concrete guard wall.

340

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Diaper or belly pan

« on: May 15, 2017, 08:46:26 AM »

That is kinda what I use on my personal car - metal straps Dzused inplace over Pig Mats. I also have one on my belly pan under the transmission. I have also seen metal mesh screen used to retain the pads.

I am a part-time tech inspector at the once-a-month Heads Up series at our local NHRA track where diapers or pans are mandatory on ALL classes. I have been asking some of the top competitors which they prefer - diaper or pan? I'd say it runs about 60/40 pans to diapers.

341

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Weight bars

« on: May 15, 2017, 08:16:12 AM »

As a long term solution would you consider moving the engine "out" further from the axle CL? I did that on my wheelstand prone Logghe altered (moved the engine 7 in. forward) and it turned it into a totally different (tamer) animal, without the penalty of added weight. This solution addresses the real elephant in the room.



Prior to moving the engine I was using 80 lb of lead on the axle. Note wheelie bar positions.

342

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: cooling question

« on: May 15, 2017, 07:57:45 AM »

Well, I run a Super Pro altered and I will tell you what works for me:
First, as others have mentioned, I installed a Schrader valve to bleed the air at the back of the head (My highest point in the system).

I also installed a Schrader valve in my Sirocco-style lay-down radiator. It is mounted on the body side panel via a 1/8" tubing, just in front of my front axle.
I also drilled a 1/8" bleed in my radiator cap to essentially run the system at "zero pressure". The overflow empties into a puke tank.

I drive to the lanes, start the car in staging to bring the temp up and pull to the ready line around 155 - 160 degrees. Make my run, usually around 180 degrees in the shutdown area, drive back the return road, pick up my e.t. slip, and return to my pit space. It usually stays under 200 degrees and puts about 1/2 cup of water into the puke tank. My fill neck is about six inches tall and I leave the water level at the bottom of it.

Here is a vid showing the bleed just below the tach on the head and the fill neck with radiator cap:



and another typical run:



The temp gage is to the right of the tach. BTW, 550 HP six on gasoline.

343

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Neil and Parks Shop visit

« on: May 15, 2017, 07:31:17 AM »

...nice site to build a drag strip

344

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Alcohol fuel system maintenance between races

« on: March 17, 2017, 06:50:26 PM »

While I don't have a blown BBC on alky, a fellow racer at my track runs an alcohol RED and he has a separate gasoline system on the car to make it easy to start, put heat in the engine, and drive it up to the staging lanes. You may want to consider something similar?

345

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: SCE ICS Titan copper head gaskets

« on: March 16, 2017, 10:49:02 AM »

My N/A SBC uses Fel-Pro composite head gaskets now, no issues. If starting from scratch, I'd consider MLS (they require smoother surfaces though).

I made the mistake of ordering a pair of custom (read: pricey) MLS gaskets to replace my Felpro 1024, which I was having to replace twice a season. What I did not do was re-machine the block and head surfaces to a more mirror-like finish, as suggested. Lasted two runs. My block machinist said to transition over to MLS from composition required a smoother sealing surfaces. Just an FYI to maybe save somebody grief. [I have since resolved my sealing issues with the Felpro style and can get upwards of 200 passes from one without serious leakage.]