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Messages - THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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1
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Battery Cut-Off/Kill Switch
« on: January 17, 2023, 06:17:05 PM »
Thanks for the clarification and suggestion. This afternoon I abandoned my thoughts of doing some sort of electrically switched cut off and ordered a push/pull cable. I already have a manual battery cut off on hand and after thoughts of using the hollow handle to attach a cable, I decided to fabricate/machine a different steel or aluminum handle with a bit extra length for leverage to lessen the push/pull load on the cable itself.

I appreciate all of you who have offered sound advice when I'm stumped. This FED stuff is all new to me. I am thoroughly enjoying the build process and look forward to the car moving under it's own power!

Lynn
We are rooting for you.

2
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Who builds own engine
« on: January 17, 2023, 06:12:48 PM »
I farm out my block machining.
I farm out my crankshaft machining.
I farm out my torque converter builds.
I farm out my transmission builds.
Other than that I build my motors. When you are racing a crossflow headed inline six cylinder there is very little you can get by opening a racing catalog.

3
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Battery Cut-Off/Kill Switch
« on: January 09, 2023, 09:18:43 AM »
Yes, tech requires the engine cutoff switch be "push to disconnect" in the case of a push/pull switch. You can orient the switch or the twist-off lever to get this action. I have had to put a stud in the end of a switch that had a thumb lever to attach the rod. Some levers are hollow. In that case in addition to tapping the lever for the stud I filled the hollow in the switch lever with JB Weld for strength.

BTW, these switches do not last forever. I have had to replace one that was giving an intermittend bad connection. Maybe using isolator grommets would have prolonged it's life?

4
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Cage/Helmet Clearance
« on: January 01, 2023, 01:38:26 PM »
I think SFI specs for dragster / altered are 3" clearance above the helmet to the roll cage.

5
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Jr dragster chassis
« on: December 16, 2022, 05:29:08 PM »
Thanks a lot , I plan on doing the diagonals this afternoon . So just in time ;) thanks a lot .
Is there a particular reason to have the longer part in the bottom?
I have seen chassis with all 4 in the bottom like i planned to do . But also some chassis where the lower ones where with the bottom ones long , and the upper rails where inverted so the longer bit was on the top parts.
Thanks
Sam
I think it may have to do with the bending moment put on the frame rails. If the frame wants to buckle in its middle from bending (visualize bouncing down from a big wheelie) then the bottom side of the bottom member will be in tension and the load can be distributed over the larger section of the 45 degree bend. Likewise the top side of the top member will see the biggest compression load and then the top of the top rail would be the most highly stressed and hence would benefit from the top side being longer.

6
Google 'Trustart drag racing'

Why? Meaning where this comment come from? Thanks
I am pretty sure somebody said one good reason for being the faster car is the slower car has the first chance to red light, in bracket racing. With the advent of the Trustart in "crosstalk" trees the driver with the worst red light will get the lose ticket, not the first driver to go red.

Maybe that statement got edited out of the original post. Sorry for the confusion.

7
Google 'Trustart drag racing'

8
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Blown sbc lit for the first time.
« on: October 10, 2022, 07:04:51 PM »
Very nice.
The ignition system looks interesting. Is that something you built or is it aftermarket?

9
When I build a chassis I farm out my bends to a commercial chassis builder. I have found it valuable to make full size templates of thin hardboard or cardboard so the bender can lay the pipe on the template to get the bends very close.

10
Altereds / Re: Do I need a wing?
« on: August 14, 2022, 06:12:17 PM »
You do not need a wing. This, from a prominent A/Altered Comp Eliminator racer who tested one and said below 200 MPH a wing on a '23 T is unnecessary.

Play with the 4-bar. Try a shorter, higher instant center. But don't go any farther than necessary to keep it glued down or you may start to pull the tires out of the beams.

11
Wanted to buy / Re: Miscellaneous Parts Wanted
« on: August 01, 2022, 05:42:05 AM »
Lynn, I know you are using a mild SBC with a conservative tune up but I think you should not rule out converters with a higher stall - in the 4000 RPM region at least. You may find a lower range converter will cause the car to leave abruptly, pulling the wheels out of the beams.
Additionally, since you have a mild small cubic inch SBC a converter rated at 4000 RPM for a high strung SBC will likely have an actual stall speed significantly lower in your milder SBC. Good luck in your search.

12
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: July 05, 2022, 08:05:23 PM »
Congratulations.

P.S. Now you can upgrade your avatar specs form a 5.0 best e.t. to a 4.7 best.

13
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: July 03, 2022, 05:59:43 PM »
nice run FinnishFireball.

14
Drag Racing / Re: battery mounting?
« on: June 11, 2022, 05:35:48 PM »
I have no opinion on the batteries you specifically mentioned, but trust me, you want an alternator. Some mini alternators (Mitsubishi???) are quite small. Look at East Coast Auto Electric for ideas, both 12 or 16 volt.
https://ecae.com/product-category/alternators/

15
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: May 31, 2022, 07:52:40 PM »
Your car looks good.
Congratulations

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