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Messages - dusterdave173

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« on: November 22, 2021, 10:34:24 AM »
I thought about it --reproducing the wonderful Frameworks Shifter--the Best for a FED  but was told B&M had the patent etc and just did not think it was worth a legal tangle but someone is now making them again--They are on Ebay under powerglide race shifter Hot Shifter for $300  anyone building a car --this is great news--there are just no more used ones around --I urge anybody needing a shifter to check it out

Wanted to buy / Re: Miscellaneous Parts Wanted
« on: October 01, 2021, 11:01:02 AM »
should be just fine! look for a used gear on   it used to be The Mopar forum and has calmed down in recent years but many many Helpful mopar guys there t--if you post there you will find a gear for sure

Wanted to buy / Re: Miscellaneous Parts Wanted
« on: September 30, 2021, 04:48:27 AM »
Long time Mopar guy here
The 741 was the weakest of the three 8 3/4's  The 742 is the top--straight shimable pinion--easy to set up--the 489 has thick pinion also but used crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload--you can buy a steel spacer to eliminate the crush sleeve but that is added expense--shoot for a 742 for the best --I have broken 741 pinions before
also gear selection is much better for 489 and 742 style units   just a note there are two pinion splines fine and course yokes are interchangeable if splines are correct  Keep your old pinion shims they can be reused and the new ones are usually India or china junk

I would not---the amount of weight on aluminum would be next to nothing  Run it
Next cam get a ,900 base circle it will clear better  on most combos, that is why they were invented

Altereds / Re: First drive in my altered!
« on: September 24, 2021, 06:37:56 AM »

It is the thrill of a lifetime welcome to a pretty small club of guys with permanent grins

,900 base circle is smaller than Small Base circle and cleared on mine   degreeing cam does matter at that point  measure with a  copper wire of know diameter is how we do it in my shop

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Rod - cam clearance sbc…
« on: July 18, 2021, 07:59:40 AM »
Probably will need a .900 base  cam to clear--cam has to be degreed close to where it will run to check--
.900 base units look spooky thin but I have run them with giant spring pressures and no issues
You can always clearance the rods but it needs to be Pro done ( I use a mill)

« on: June 21, 2021, 08:11:58 AM »
cleaning up
I have two sets ARP flexplate to crank bolts new, one set converter to flex plate bolts ARP 7/16ths, one 39ths set and one Nice REED brand USA made bronze distributor/magneto gear  It is in ex cond--used but almost zero wear--these are old school USA made not china junk  and......ARP oil pump stud kit  new in package
Entire lot $50 shipped free  please email   Thanks

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: April 29, 2021, 05:01:55 AM »
IIRC Shirley Muldowny lost one off wheel at 200MPH nearly cost her life--about then they all changed out to solids and Goodyears

I ran John wheels and Kendas 160 MPH zero issues--FWIW I had scored a set of vintage wires--called John about fixing them turns out they were valuable to restorer guys on west coast so he traded me new set for my old ragged set and everyone got a win--the resto guy that really needed originals and me that really needed new and true and John who could make a buck both ways--Sweet deal for all involved

Drag Racing / Re: Engine oil
« on: April 22, 2021, 12:43:24 PM »
AMALIE is the best I have ever seen with alky and nitro--they have oil formulated for alky and it can swallow a bucket of nitro and still keep engine safe--by design. They offer racer net prices
Really depends on the fuel but there is just no way I would stray from what one of the worlds best engine builders said run in his engine--as long as he knows what fuel you are running
Again--with nitro or alky I just have not found anything better able to withstand dilution than Amalie

« on: April 02, 2021, 09:13:17 AM »

« on: April 02, 2021, 08:50:20 AM »
 Guys I found another of the greatest shifters ever for an FED, RED, or Altered--Frameworks all aluminum the thinnest lightest ever I can't list pix on here so call me 704 244 6649 and I will email photos--$375 shipped--It is listed on the Facebook FED group page--grab it while you can these always sell fast--They are simply the best! Not made in decades
704 244 6649 Thanks David

No reason to run water  I could fire up in lanes , make my run, drive back to the pits from 1/4 mile run, and sitting in pits idling it would start to cool--at idle with alky you are so rich the cooling is amazing--when you stab it it goes lean makes heat--soon as you close the blades she is cooling again
Water--can mean leaks and if rods fly out you are driving in the rain  NOT for me...........

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: measuring nitro percentage
« on: February 22, 2021, 07:27:17 AM »
Spud at FIE has a great kit to do this with--it comes with all important temp chart--15% at 68 is not 15% at 85 degrees
If you consider that you are mixing bomb making materials in the pits with the public standing right there then you need to be very careful about what you are doing--
It is especially important to Know what you are doing when starting the engine --one wrong move then all the "I am sorry" in the world will not fix a problem
We started and warmed on alky in pits--drained tank added nitro mixture--then when we started in staging we were starting on alky in the pump and lines--Much safer than firing up with nitro in there IMO
When I was a kid I got hit by a piece of exploding engine in just such a pit accident--made an impression

You have to be educated and Know what you are doing or you could kill someone

It was fun to fire up idle and then wait for the nitro to enter the stream--wow! If you have never run nitro do it while you can--the memory will last forever!! It is Real drag racing but remember it is pretty easy to hurt  yourself or others with it

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Bushing or Needle Bearing
« on: January 01, 2021, 11:56:49 AM »
needles bearings require a coupler or yoke etc that is designed for needles and I think is hardened different--Mark Williams and others offer them both ways--I would just go bushing--a needle there can cause premature wear on wrong coupler and any drag reduction would be next to nothing--bushing is way less trouble potential 

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