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Messages - THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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1
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: aluminum exhaust
« on: October 21, 2021, 05:18:43 PM »
In the '60s Pontiac used cast aluminum exhaust manifolds on their SS BBP motors.

2
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Front Tires Popping out of the Beams.
« on: October 20, 2021, 06:57:37 AM »
Okay so for the report on how it worked.

 I Won!

 Reaction times came back and it worked quite well. Won a few rounds on the tree. Even handled better on top end. Before it just did not want to steer on the top end, I would be cranking wheel over and it kept going where it wanted to. Never had to abort a run but I was having to work it. Now it works better. I believe what was happening was the front end was so light under full power the front tires were scrubbing and not working good.
Maybe you can replace some of the front end weight with a front canard wing that will keep the front glued down and reduce weight also.
I cannot read replies either.

3
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: September 27, 2021, 07:00:41 AM »
Stay after it Fireball. You'll get there. The fun is in the chase.

4
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fuel tank, leaks
« on: September 26, 2021, 04:07:06 PM »
Welding on a used gas tank can be problematic. Flammable fumes can linger.
At Ford R&E the techs would steam clean a tank before welding on it. Often sensors and fittings needed to be added.
I would also recommend a back shielding gas be piped into the tank during the welding process.

5
Altereds / Re: First drive in my altered!
« on: September 22, 2021, 05:47:47 AM »
nice
What a rush, eh?

6
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Slowing down Transbrake
« on: September 07, 2021, 07:56:25 PM »
OK.
I'll divulge one of my little techniques I developed to keep from going red when bottom bulb racing without a box.
I two-count each bulb. Or three-count it if I'm still too early.
Like this, for each yellow:
2-1
2-1
2-1!
 and release on the last1.

If still too early try a three-count.
3-2-1
3-2-1
3-2-1!

I've been doing this for decades. It takes a little practice to get good (what doesn't?) but its cheaper than mechanical changes and easier to revert back when using the box.

You're welcome.

7
Tow Vehicles / Re: Old Trailer project
« on: August 15, 2021, 06:55:42 AM »
Retro!

nice

8
Altereds / Re: used altered
« on: August 08, 2021, 08:31:55 AM »
I've seen some home built altereds that would certify to 6.0.
I've also had the experience of watching a guy die in his when it disintegrated in the lights.
If you have good welding and fab skills -and a well equipped shop - you can do it.
On my latest S/P car I just let Advanced Chassis (Antwerp OH) do it faster and better.

9
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: July 28, 2021, 09:41:25 AM »
I sent you an emnail.
Sorry about the lost messages.
I have no text capabilities.

10
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: July 27, 2021, 04:00:52 PM »
h_d,
I sent you an email. The 15s I have are actually 8.5 wide! You win!!

11
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: July 26, 2021, 06:57:26 AM »
nice!

12
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: July 26, 2021, 06:54:48 AM »
FWIW, I have a set of vintage aluminum Ansen Sprints - two 15 x 10 x 4.5 BC and two 14 x 8 x 4.5 BC - I'd part with. I can take pics if interested.

Re the cage: I would build it with the thought in mind of what the next caretaker of the car might best need. If that means using 1 5/8" so the next owner is able to run the car faster that is what I'd use, even if I had to pay someone else to do the bends. Money well spent

13
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Rod piston issue SBC
« on: June 27, 2021, 07:03:09 PM »
First thing I would do is measure the thickness of the piston above the rod to see how much material may be removed. Check with your piston supplier on minimum local thickness allowed. I would take material away using a ball nose end mill so there is no sharp edged stress concentration on the underside of the dome. Re balance pistons.

14
Altereds / Re: Back on track at last
« on: June 24, 2021, 06:54:27 PM »
I think I would be tempted to just replace the coil over shocks with rigid tubular struts with a length to your liking. That way you can see if solid works better without welding or bolting the axle to the chassis. You may find that suspension works better than none back there and it will be easy to revert back to coil overs this way.

15
Along the lines of what Curly 1 recommends I would say just hire a shop to build a current NHRA-legal rolling chassis, then build it up with any vintage nostalgia bits you care to surround yourself with. The likelihood of a 1975 chassis still being raceable without significant upgrades (e.g. a six point cage) is slim. As long as you are not dead set on "owning a piece of history" you would be better off starting from scratch. Good luck. Have fun.

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