Topics

46

Front Engine Dragsters / Change gears or tyres?

« on: April 09, 2016, 09:23:54 PM »

Howdy
Long story short version I ran a basic small block Ford FED 35 years ago with 4.11's 28.5 tyre leaving at 3000 (clutch auto) about 6300 through the lights (1/4 mile) I went to a 30.5 tyre and it was a dog slow thing to drive. Now I have a basic 400ish HP small block Chrysler with 4.3's 31 tyre and a converter leaving with foot brake. I've only run it once 1/8 mile and hurt the motor and had no second gear so have no info. I've been thinking of going back to a 30" tyre  to help it off the line. Today I woke up thinking it would be cheaper to change to a 4.88 or so diff centre and leave the existing tyres and rim. Anyone changed gears rather than wheels and tyres?  This is an 1/8 mile car with a three speed trans (2.45:1 first gear) and 6500 it will be all out of breath. I haven't done the maths on the gears so don't shoot me down over that.
Cheers
Retro

47

Front Engine Dragsters / Wheelie bars

« on: January 26, 2016, 02:14:40 AM »

Howdy
I don't see the need for a long wheelie bar/bars on a FED with a basic 5 sec 1/8 mile combo leaving from idle or say up to 2200 rpm. I recognize the extra length will add a bit of stability but does anybody run a single wheel at the rear of the chassis like some of the early fuel cars?  Photo's of the early set usp please if you have them.
Cheers
Tony

48

Front Engine Dragsters / No money no funny !

« on: December 23, 2015, 03:03:01 AM »

Well after two years building on a super tight budget I made my first passes in my small block Chrysler powered FED in nearly 30 years and Killed the engine.  It's a long story and one I won't bore you with but now I'm piecing a motor together mostly from what I have kicking around. I have a block with some wear but it's @ .040 same as my pistons So I've had it tanked new cam bearings fitted and honed. I've put a set of bolts in some factory rod and had them resized, and I've had a crank ground. I have to clean some metal out of the piston skirts with wet and dry - fingers crossed. My old "J" heads are OK and I will use the same old Vertex. To get the car and myself sorted I'm going to take my injection off and go with a 750 DP initially. Now I need a cam and lifters. My heart lie's with a good old fashion solid lifter set up but I'm xxxx scared of loosing cam lobes now that engine oils are all messed up. All I want to do is run high 5's on the eigth at some relaxed country tracks. Now I run with no electronics and no trans brake so it's really hard to get any revs up on the line on the brake because the car wants to creep/drive at much past 2200. The converted isn't ideal but it's a 9" that stalled at 5000 in a Dart. Now I'm looking beyond the engine only,  rather the whole package and I'm asking what would people think if I put in a Hyd cam around 260/270 degrees @ .050" and used the V-max adjustable lifters from Rhoads that wash off some lift and duration unit around 4,000 rpm to help me off the line but still let me see 6500 - 6700 or so in the top end. It's effectively VVT set up so I cam use a big HYD stick. Any ideas

49

Front Engine Dragsters / M/T slicks

« on: November 13, 2015, 02:51:23 AM »

Howdy
Anyone run an MT 3068W Slick on a FED? They're an M5 medium compound 31.0/10.5-15W Tyre.
Cheers
Tony

50

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Help school me on converters

« on: October 15, 2015, 03:31:12 PM »

Howdy
Back in the day I ran a Clutch-flight,  wind 'er up drop the clutch and change gears - easy. Now some decades later I've built a new FED and fitted a conventional converter driven trans. What a nightmare. Latest thing I have to ask is about converters in hand or foot brake cars. I have a Turbo Action converter that was in an A body Mopar and stalled at 5200. I don't have the vehicle weight so don't expect that sort of number but I can only hold it at 2000 rpm on the brake and it doesn't flash just drives off the line like a slug. WTF.
Cheers

51

Spud Miller's Cave / Sticking throttle but not a mechanical problem ?

« on: September 21, 2015, 12:45:00 AM »

Howdy
In 12 days time I'm driving 4 hours each way to make my first runs since 1989 but I have a problem and I'm needing a bit of guidance please. I had a  little test drive yesterday to check brakes steering etc on a quite country road and I couldn't help notice my throttle would not return when the engine is running. I have a very basic Mopar small block with a solid flat tappet camshaft. I have a Vertex internal coil magneto that has just been serviced. It has 10 degrees advance in the Maggy and is set on 36 overall. I have new Enderle 80A pump fed by a dash 10 line and a dash 6 from the pump to the injector which is a single 4" venturie similar to a Rons or Enderle single butterfly injection. I have a dash 6 return line and a 3/8 breather in the tank filler cap. When I start it the idle seems to increase as the engine warms but the bigger issue is the throttle will not come back from the highest rpm I hit. The throttle lever is firm to pull back to idle - I sort of think there is a hydraulic feel to it. I have checked the check valve in the return line and it is fitted facing the correct direction and seems to operate with out any sticking. Could a too small a return line cause this?  The cable and butterfly shaft move freely when the engine is not running. Anybody come across some thing like this before?
Cheers

52

Roo Man's Room / Why radius rods?

« on: September 06, 2015, 05:57:56 AM »

Howdy. Why am I seeing radius rods on FEDS with either bolt in or weld on front axles?

53

Front Engine Dragsters / How frustrating is all this ??

« on: September 02, 2015, 09:34:58 PM »

Wow 26 years since I've been down a race track and it appears it's still a little while away. I've spent the last two years rebuilding/ building a FED, done every thing in my shed except the trans. I've been planning on making my first passes on the first week end of October. in the last few weeks, I found no 2nd and 3rd gears in my trans, a crack in the auto pump drive and a few little last minute dramas. Last week my local track closed up unexpectedly, so my next closest track is 4 hours away and while I had planned on going there for a big meeting they yesterday closed entries as they have run out of pit room ! Bugga

54

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / No 2nd or 3rd ?

« on: August 15, 2015, 01:08:24 AM »

Howdy. I've recently converted a 727 clutchflight to a conventional transmission using a converter. The clutchflight had been sitting for a while but was a new built and unused transmission. Now effectively I've swapped the case and pump but I only have first and reverse. I've checked line pressure and it's virtually non existent. The pump is new and the valve body was a ok when we spilt it to check. Any thoughts?

55

Front Engine Dragsters / weight of American Racing salt flat wheels

« on: May 16, 2015, 10:57:45 PM »

Howdy. Further to the conversations about tyre sizes and weighs and so on can any one tell me the weight of American Racing salt flat wheels in 15 x 10 size?

56

Front Engine Dragsters / Is it Monkey see Monkey do ?

« on: May 15, 2015, 07:23:27 PM »

Howdy
Gee it's been quite here the last few weeks everyone must be busy racing. Way back when I ran a SBF powered FED with a 3 speed clutch auto.
In the early 1980's Powerglides were becoming the thing to use - "You'll be more consistent" they said "you'll go faster because of less parasitic losses" they said, so like others I jumped on to the band wagon and fitted a two speed PG up behind my Cleveland. It was no more consistent, it was no faster but it did turn my car into a boring ride overnight. Now 30 years on a lot of development has gone into the Powerglide and they can be build to handle big power. But why? Are people using 'glides because that's what your supposed to use? Monkey seen Monkey do.  I've seen discussion here about different ratio gear sets and the merit or other. Why not stick with a three speed and get the benefits of the lower first gear. I'm just waiting on our (Australian) summer so I can make my first passes in 26 years and I'm using a 3 speed. Remembering my comment about making the car a dull ride I would never consider a 2 speed. 
Cheers

57

Front Engine Dragsters / How did they build those early jnr fuel cars so light?

« on: April 25, 2015, 05:53:35 AM »

I weighed my 155" car today. I have no excess bits and pieces, no battery, two wires, no suspension, the only concession is a little upholstery. 1190 lbs. I could save a little with a pair of lighter wheels some alloy heads analuminium diff centre. How did they build the early junior fuel cars under 1000 lbs?   

58

Front Engine Dragsters / Little guy 1/8 mile RPM

« on: April 19, 2015, 03:56:28 AM »

Howdy. I've just finished the rebuild of an old FED just in time for our Aussie winter so I stripped it this afternoon to get ready for paint and detail.
I have a 31" tyre, 4.3 gears and no trans brake so will leave around 3/3,500 RPM. I'm going to change to 4.56 gears. What RPM are you guys with similar set up's running on the top end of the eighth.
Cheers
Tony

59

Front Engine Dragsters / Steerin' and Spools

« on: February 13, 2015, 09:43:51 PM »

Howdy
My home built early 1970's FED has what I beleve is an Anglia steering box and bell crank steering. Only about 1 1/4 turns lock to lock and very fast with the motor out - which is the same as saying very heavy with the motor in. Now I have a spool in the rear and around the yard at home in gravel it basically won't turn ('coz the spool  wants to push it straight). I haven't run this car yet but is it going to steer OK on a concrete track? Now I ran a FED 25 years ago with an open rear and it steered great.
Cheers
Tony

60

Front Engine Dragsters / Pinion height.

« on: January 14, 2015, 02:47:21 PM »

Howdy.
I’m just about finished my build and it will be the first time I’ve been down a track in 25 or more years but I’m already thinking about building my next car.  Next time I would like to use a diff with a higher pinion than a 9” so I can run the engine nose down a little rather than the current set up that is level.  Any suggestions for a diff that has a higher pinion height ?
Cheers