Messages

76

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: April 16, 2018, 04:51:07 PM »

Glen,couldn't you have used split shaft collars  and not cut shaft ?
      DON

There was no area for the split collar to tighten up on. Cutting the driveshaft, although nerve racking had no unwanted side effects.

No, wiring, say it isn't so

Wiring, Here we go, This is the "Brains"?

I did not complete a project this week.

Thought I would just put up a progress report.

Drew up a circuit diagram for the Points box, 3-step, RPM Signal Generator, and RPM Switch.

Actually turned some screws, or in this case crimped some wires.

Learned that I need a magnifying glass in order to read the numbers on the back of Deutsch Connectors.

It would be nice to be able to report at the end of next week that the wiring is done.

77

Tow Vehicles / Re: Tire sizes and towing

« on: April 13, 2018, 08:46:07 AM »

I have a 2011 f250 I use primarily to tow my chapparal trailer to the races.  My truck needs tires and currently it has 265/75R17 and tows the trailer remarkably well.  I ran across a good deal on some 245 75 17s and am wondering what size tour would be a better option.  Any opinions are appreciated.

Looks like the tires you have are already a little short (makes it easier to pull that trailer.

I see 275 70 18 for f-250 diesel and on the Lariat they have 275 65 18

I think they will be to small in diameter.

78

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: April 11, 2018, 06:34:58 AM »

Modify and install the Coupler Driveshaft into the Front Engine Dragster

In this video we modify the coupler between the transmission and rear end to accept two additional locking collars.

There is no universal joint in the drive train of a Front Engine Dragster. A coupler takes it's place.

There was an incident in our racing series last year when on came loose and did some damage. I would like to try and avoid that kind of excitement, so we are doubling up on the locking collars.

79

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: April 09, 2018, 01:24:19 PM »

In this video we will remove an old valve spring from a head, determine valve spring install height, install the needed shims, and install the new valve spring while the head is still bolted to the engine.

We will then test out calculations by measuring seat pressure with the valve spring installed.

It was pointed out to me that the springs I had installed on the new engine in the Front Engine Dragster did not have enough seat pressure for my expected top end RPM of 7,800.

What to do? My mentor, Steve Walczak, found a set of Comp Cam springs (#996) that were a good compromise between seat pressure and open pressure with the lift that I have.

My valves are relatively small, and light, so I can get away with a little lighter seat pressure. I will be shooting for around 338 pounds of force at close and just under 800 open.

I have a strong valve train, a copper struck solid roller cam (Engle), .135 thickness push rod walls (Trend), Shaft mounted Crower rocker arms. So…..it should stand up to these pressures.

80

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: April 03, 2018, 06:07:27 AM »

We have a two part video project this time!

Part 1 Of installing the transmission into the Front Engine Dragster

This video contains the modifications needed to make the flex plate work to install the transmission into the Front Engine Dragster.

There is a link at the end of this video to the second video.

The mounting holes needed to be opened up to except the bolts, to bolt the flex plate to the crankshaft.

We run a six bolt torque converter, so the flex plate had to be drilled to accept the new bolt pattern of the torque converter.

We did a better job than the professional transmission shop that did it the last time.

There is a link at the end of part one to part two.

Part 2 Of installing the transmission into the Front Engine Dragster

This project ran long so I have broken up into two easy to watch video (I think).

In this video the front seal in the transmission removed and replaced, the torque converter is installed in the transmission, and finally the transmission is installed into the front engine dragster

81

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Ed Mabry 71 Jr. Fuel

« on: April 03, 2018, 06:07:06 AM »

Keep us posted with the progress.

82

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 27, 2018, 09:09:27 PM »

thank you for the videos, it helped me understand a few things; especially not having done this before.

The next one is going to take some time and should be interesting (spoiler, Seat pressure is not high enough so the valve springs need to be replace, will talk about spring bind, clearance, etc  I have to say I have had quite an education over the last week)

83

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 27, 2018, 09:06:28 PM »

most hats have extra hole or two.They are plugged off with 1/8 pipe plug.Remove one pulg and idle will gain 200 to 300 rpm. as said it just makes simpler since you do not have to readjust BV. Most setups stay pretty close except when good change in  Correct altitude causes idle to change. If hats is off and has no holes with plugs is pretty simple to set up cpl holes and plug them till needed.

 While I'm giving tips. You can also use holes to keep check on blower. Pull one plug and use to check vacuum on fresh blower. Record number.Check every so often,if idles is same it should read same,if down blower is falling off and probably needs stripping. Not big deal on most of stuff guys here are running but if your running headsup where power is king then blower is number one piece needed to get max out of it,well according to some old guy named Newberry. Then what does he know about blown alky stuff.LOL

Got it, thanks, check blower performance, if it is falling off (strips being worn), with vacuum is a good tip.

84

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 27, 2018, 01:23:49 PM »

I do not understand 1/8 inch plug?

85

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 27, 2018, 05:59:52 AM »

A great Tuning Tool for the dragstrip

This video introduces a tuning tool that was introduced to me. I found it very helpful and thought I would pass the information on.

This is the contact information for the person that sells the device;
Mr. Ray Hadford
rayhadford@frontier.com
Pacific Standard Time (425) 238-3235

I was not paid or compensated in any way to present this information, just thought it was a good device and am passing the information on.

86

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 26, 2018, 08:47:46 AM »

NOTE...I state in the video that I do not know as much as I should and it comes through in the video. I'm also pretty tired. There is a major flaw in the comparison of the normal linkage and the Click-Fast, but it is still a great addition to tune up tools. The hex link has right and left hand threads for very fine adjustments.  But the click-fast allows you to make adjustments without having to carry two wrenches with you.

Put the Blower onto the Front Engine Dragster / Discussion on A/F mixture at idle with Click-Fast adjustment device (second half of the video).

We install the Blower on the Pontiac engine in the front Engine Dragster.

I give a small discussion on Air Fuel mixture and it's importance.

I describe a product called Click-Fast (I have no affiliation other than I am using the item) and it's impact on setting up the engine to idle smoothly.

The contact information for the guy that makes these devices is Mr. Ray Hadford,

He can be reached through his e-mail address at rayhadford@frontier.com or if you are courteous of his time zone (Pacific Standard Time)  (425)238-3235

87

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 24, 2018, 10:37:29 AM »

Valve springs are too weak!





Hopefully this is the final Engine install into the Front Engine Dragster

I believe this maybe the final time I put the engine into the Front Engine Dragster.

To do that the remote oil filter adapter must be bolted to the engine.

To do that -AN fittings need to be installed on the ends of new -10 hose.

I had intended to show the process of putting -AN fittings onto the hose in this video but it ran to long. I have done a separate video that shows that process, I put a card in the video at the appropriated point.

88

Jon's Wheel House / Re: Tires for 7.0

« on: March 24, 2018, 06:28:17 AM »

Thanks for the info, when I get closer I will call.

Went shopping for double bead-lock wheels, and found an interesting thing. Both Jegs and Summit list available ship date on all 13 X 15 X 3 inch back space 5on5 as May!

31's will not work for me as I need to keep RPM down in the 8,000 range

89

Jon's Wheel House / Tires for 7.0

« on: March 22, 2018, 08:01:50 PM »

Working on tires for a FED

Current set up is for 8.000 index,  top end RPM is 6,700 at 165 MPH on 31 X 12 X 15

New engine and desired index is 7.00 around 7,800 rpm engine is good for 7,500 to 8,000, would like to see 7,500

Rear gear is 3.73

Looks like a 33 inch tall tire would be around 193 MPH 6 -8 % slippage in the torque converter.

How much will the tire grow? Is this calculation correct with tire growth?

90

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: March 20, 2018, 07:42:01 AM »

In a couple of videos posted by -AN fitting sellers, they assemble these fittings very quickly and with ease. In one, in six minutes they assemble three different styles. It takes longer in the real world.

In this video I show what it really takes to assemble AN Fittings on Braided Hose . I cover the basics of cutting braided hose lines and installing -AN fittings on the ends of braided hose.



I also have the 101 basics on my web site at this link

https://www.lever-family-racing.com/lever-family-racing-home/family-vehicles/1978-pontiac-fire-bird/an-fitting-assembly