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Wanted to sell / Re: 190" FED FOR SALE
« on: February 02, 2017, 12:16:19 PM »
What is the closest airport to you?
John
John
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Smokin is not the word for that deal. Heck 15 years ago I would bo on the way to airport.Travel is the killer for me also.Even have someone who said heck he would go half on it. Hate it when you see a deal and can't go pick it up.
If you like a sheet metal rearend, Neil and Parks has one that is very compact and light, and you can get it pre-welded or weld it yourself, comes it chrome-moly or titanium for the weight concerned folks.
with my car as follows is about 15k. chassis w/ front spindles, all steering linkage, steering box, butter fly wheel, parachute (2) mounts and handles, motor mount/plate, brake handle, m/c, pedal, N&P shifter, seat, shorty body, front wing, fuel tank, milter bros housing, strange axles, brake, third member, drive shaft and couplers.
i have new front wheels, picked up some used rears that are new but never used, purchased trans and am at 20-21k. need to get chutes, fire bottles, belts, and misc things so figure ill be about 24-25k into it rolling.. less electronics and motor/fuel system.
as was eluded too earlier, i could of saved and purchased a used car but i would not of fit as im 6'4" and shoulders are about 21" wide. i have seen a lot of cars out there with narrower (19") shoulder widths. if i would of purchased a car as roller, how much money would it of cost me to have it modified assuming the shoulder width was acceptable. further, the chassis im getting is built to 2.2C standards. in the end, the base money spent for the chassis as comparable roller price isnt that much more and it is built to ME and is new. i could of saved prob 1,500.00 by buying one chute, smaller axles, third member, etc... also, when i go to sell it, the car will have a higher resale value even though it doesn't matter what car you build, youll never get out of it what you have in it... thats just part of the game.
dean
building a car quickly is expensive and much cheaper over time, but time has a way of interfering progress.
If you budget high $20/$25 and come out way under cost you win and go racing with money left over, If you budget low $10/$15 and run out of money you lose, not only being able to race, but without being able to fund the rest of the build and are forced to sell to recoupe investment, your return is only .30 on the $$'s spent.
Look at used cars for sale, have the sellers send plenty of body off pictures including the SFI cert tag on the chassis(does not have to be current cert) or take plenty of pics yourself and post them here, Both Roo and Myself will take the time to veiw them to give you an honest accesment before you buy or will tell you to walk away
" Also, are you guys all crunched in the cage to where you have to exhale to drive down range? Lol some drivers look real uncomfortable to me, and others don't....I myself would like a little distance from me to the wheel and have my arms extended a little. Is that a normal question or do I just bite the bullet like the rest of you all??? Lol"
John,
the drivers who look uncomfortable are usually in a car that was built for someone else (usually of a different size). One thing to watch for is the shoulder hoop configuration. As seen in the blueprint posted by Gino, the early cars had a single bend shoulder hoop and that tends to push the driver's shoulders forward as the belts pull him back into the seat. That can make it hard to breathe as evidenced by one of my customers who has a car that was built from an old ) mid 60's) Speed Improvements kit. Don Long figured the problem out fairly early and started making the shoulder hoop with a flat between 6" radius bends rather than the constant (approx 9-10") radius deal.
I build all of my cars to suit the driver (and engine/drive line combo) and put the wheel, pedals etc in the position that they are most comfortable with. I also generally make some recommendations as what feels right in the shop sometimes does not work on the track.
Roo