Messages

16

Roo Man's Room / Shoulder width vs cage size

« on: November 03, 2019, 03:34:10 PM »

Hi guys,
  Been awhile since I was in here, back with some questions about driver fitement.

How wide of a man will a 19” cage allow with any comfort?
I’m 22” wide at shoulders and 5’10” 265lbs
I am looking very strongly at a fed and it has everything I want on it...
Thanks
John

17

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Exhaust pipes, what to use...

« on: February 09, 2017, 08:48:25 AM »

Dre,

  Well, before I even touched my El Camino to began the conversion from a street puff to a drag vehicle, I had to make list's, and more list's and then more list's.....the rear axle had to be designed and built to what I wanted, so buying parts FIRST is what I needed to do with that component, same with the trans, headers, engine fitment, front and rear suspension and so on.  So in essence, everything we build either from scratch or a preexisting build needs to be done in stages.   Call me a cry baby if you want, but my minuscule amount of pride is large in my eyes as I built my junk by myself, ran it and hit an et without a lot of help.  Not bragging, just fact.

So, all that being said, the exhaust system needs to be thought out before the chassis as well as many other things before I get into a used chassis build.  I like to stock pile many but not all of my parts, then begins the project, that way, it won't stall and I won't loose interest waiting for more money to roll in.  It's how I roll.  Nothing worse for a guy to have a chassis in a garage and taking him 2+ years to get it built!!!!  I'm an impatient person and want my stuff yesterday, I'm high strung, and like a hand gernade with out a pin in it that everyone around me try's to put back in!!!  I work hard and play hard, sorry it is not at YOUR level but I have to start somewhere.
 
I am a fact finder before I do things, than I make my decisions...my apology if I ruffeled your feathers, you obviously don't know me as I keep everyone around me entertained at the least and always try to put smiles on people's faces.  Thanks for your concern also

John

18

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Anyone spray there BBC in a fed?

« on: February 08, 2017, 03:45:48 PM »

Slowing down the et is very doable, but stepping up without my juice!!! Not so easy
My last combo made 830 at the crank and with the new block and newer build, this engine should be closer to 875ish or higher...

I calculated my starting line ratio while building my Elky, and I see a lot of 4:10, 4:33 ratios and some with 1:76 and 1:80 glide gear sets.  Anyone experience issues with a 1:80 straight cut set and if you did what tire size and size of a convertor size and stall??  I would launch at 4800 and climb the ring gear right away and ride the bar about 80 feet out, now with a digger, I'm sure a convertor is needed, not sure about trans ratio and tire size yet.  How much tire does a 850hp BBC need to run 4's in the qtr???   Aaahahaaaaa yeah right, 4's  .  How about 7's ?    Could you imagine the look on my crew chiefs face after I tossed 200 at it and ran 6's .  Guess I better look into a 6 sec. chassis cert huh? Lol

The thing with my Elky is, 8.70 is all I had time for to tune!!!!  I had just figured out what the chassis wanted with the I/C and actually needed to calm it down a bit so 8.60's were right there...had I tossed another 50 at it, 8.50's may have shown up on the slip!!! Or not, needed more time...
My combo was or should i say, should have been making 1030hp to get 3525 lbs down range.  I ran a 4:33 gear and it trapped at 155 but I needed to launch higher and shift higher.  Crossed at 73-7400 and it was an 8000 rpm engine...

We shall see as this all plays out...my wife says she sees me in a digger and I say what color??? Lol. May have to convert the Elky to a street car!!!

Thanks for your info guys.

John

19

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Exhaust pipes, what to use...

« on: February 08, 2017, 03:16:42 PM »

Aaahhhhhh crap, that means I need to build another set of headers or buy a set
I suppose I could cut up the set I just made for my Elky!!!! . Had a lot of hours on the headers at the flanges themselves...the transitions from head to flanges and 2" straights are darn near perfect!!!!

John

20

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Exhaust pipes, what to use...

« on: February 08, 2017, 10:02:38 AM »

If I run my BBC in a fed, what exhaust setup options do I have that will work the best?  My heads have been worked on the exhaust side as well as the intake side.  Will zoomies give me more or less power and what length work the best for N/A application on gas?

Thanks

John

21

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / What do you run on top of your carb, N/A no power adder?

« on: February 08, 2017, 09:26:42 AM »

Got to thinking about this and well, a scoop would block my vision straight on unless I sit on a milk crate molded to the seat!!!  Lol. Remember, N/A only...

So what do you people run on top of your carb?  any pictures would be great...
I was thinking of a little scoop like the Greer Black Prudhomme yellow digger, just a wee bit taller though.

Thanks

John

Going to search on line now so I will ask questions about different options...

22

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Anyone spray there BBC in a fed?

« on: February 08, 2017, 09:18:13 AM »

For racing in NHRA Heritage series, Nitrous is prohibited in all NE classes
Most of what you will see in the INDEX classes are
NE3 -- carburated   9.60 index
NE2-- Norm Asperated injection on alcohol    8.60 index
NE1-- Blown or injected on alcohol    7.60 index
7.0PRO -- Blown alcohol, injected nitro   7.0 index

So if I run race gas, run low 8's, high 7's, no nitrous, I can't run in this series....hhhmmmm great...
Hope the ADRL has a class for me!!!!  If not, I will just run bracket races...

In this heritage series, IF I run 7.60 on gas, n/a, no nitrous could I run in the 7.60 class?

23

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 07, 2017, 07:37:04 PM »

Actually I was just looking at that rail a few hours ago.  I asked if they would sell as a roller.  I like the looks of it but I would like to try a 190-200" in length. Nice piece too.

24

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 07, 2017, 12:59:34 PM »

Thanks for starting the thread John. I learned a ton with you, I am in a similar situation as I  have been shopping for my first FED. Unbelievably knowledgeable and patient posts from all of the contributors.
The biggest thing I am running up against is the majority of the cars I've looked at just weren't built for an NFL linebacker sized driver. The most important thing I have learned is that there is reasons for all of the bargain cars available and I will most likely have to really reconsider my budget.
We are still kicking our selves for missing out on few cars that were within a days drive but at same time very thankful now that we didn't hastily buy a few others that we would have most certainly regretted.

Well if you move to Michigan right away, we can pool our pounds of gold together and really buy a good one!!! Lol . Have to leave now though. HahahahaAaa lol. My wife loves Seattle too but we can't afford to rent a room in that town!!!!!

Hey old digger ruler
I am learning the feeling about this stuff as well.  Very nice knowledgeable people on here too!(hats off to you guys) .   Being bigger has advantages,  but not when it comes to a dragster or an altered...  I've always been partial to a 23 T altered but a 150" one myself.  Nothing against you all that drive shorter ones mind you...  and in my mind, it still IS an altered, anything OVER 150" is a digger .  Just bustin some chops is all, I love em all.

I would rather have a cockpit that I can rest my arms out on the doors like a 32 duece in American Graffitti, than have them mashing my kidney beans and gasping for air like a gold fish out of water!!!! Lol, no really! Lol   

So I guess I need to keep saving money and keep waiting for one to come by.  I'm not getting any younger so waiting will test my patience once again....not sure if I want to wait or get my Camino back to the tarmac.  Either way I think I will be racing this year or next...just hate waiting!!

Anyone feel sorry for me yet?       Iiiiiii. Didn't think so

John

25

Funny Cars / Re: The Restoration of Veney's Vega

« on: February 06, 2017, 05:01:45 PM »

Oh cool thanks

26

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Anyone spray there BBC in a fed?

« on: February 06, 2017, 05:00:15 PM »

Hey all,
  Since I am a door slammer racer, and I spray nitrous, I set my engine up a certain way, to catch people at the other end, and it works pretty good.

So, that being said, does anyone here spray there engine on the launch?  My 3500# tug boat dead hooks, paddles the tires and off I go.   I am wondering if I will be able to do the same in a fed?

Thoughts and input anyone!!!!!
Thanks

John

27

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 06, 2017, 02:20:43 PM »

Paul, aafa, John & George,

  That's what I was looking for as far as info.   I'm not a genius, but I kinda know what metal does and doesn't do under certain conditions and it is really neat to see it move and the reasons why.

You guys more less hit the nail on the head.  It's the locations of (where to look) for a possible issue.  If or when I buy a dragster, I will be anal about certain things, the chassis will most likely be stripped so I can inspect every joint and where everything meets.  I also agree on replace the wearable items such as heim joints, hardware and so in.  Working on heavy trucks off and on during my career in the auto industry has taught me a few things and many are a direct crossover to my race vehicle, my trailer and my dualie. 

Is there such shops that can inspect a chassis once stripped for issues or is that an (option) type job for a chassis shop or other shop that would charge extra for just that?

I also agree with you all about finding out who built the chassis, and the names I cannot even afford to call and talk to such people  as N&P, Uyherra(sp), and some of the other top name builders as they are who I would go to for a scratch built to me chassis and a small loan would make that happen.  So I am one of those guys who needs to know as much as possible before I dive head first into the digger world and you all have helped soo much so far and I want to thankyou all again...one of the better sites I've been to with less arragonce ...Great job guys keeping it real, and real cool (insert thumbs up emoticon here) lol.

John

28

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 05, 2017, 05:43:37 PM »

First and foremost, any used chassis even Worthy a look must have an SFI date tag on the frame , those tags have been around to close to 20 years now. The tag does not have to be current, updates to a older chassis that has been tagged are minor compared to an old chassis that never had been inspected

Ok,  correct me if I'm wrong, the inspector from SFI or any other authorized inspector from NHRA or the IHRA looks for the correct tube dimensions per location surrounding the driver on each chassis being certified per that chassis spec.   The chassis inspector Pete Woodriff near Norwalk, Ohio mentioned to me that as long as the correct bar sizes are in the correct locations around the driver and have the correct supporting bars, all the other bars are just going for a ride...meaning the rest of the bars that support the rest of the chassis are not inspected!!!!

That being said, with a dragster which I believe have more to inspect from front to rear, what does the actual inspector look at besides correct size and correct  location per the chassis as per the et range and speed?  All the inspectors I have ever had only measure around the driver area.  So, am I under the assumption that all inspectors check welds too!!!!   Maybe I'm not up on this with a dragster, but they don't inspect welds correct???  So just by having a chassis number means that chassis is ok...  that is what I am concerned with, and why I asked these questions when buying a used chassis.  I'm not asking about a chassis that was built in the 60's to pass spec in today's world, but a chassis that is built in the 70's and later, has passed tech numerous times along with the needed upgrades.  So, unless the buyer checks each weld them selves, couldn't they be buying a chassis that MAY have fractured welds somewhere???    I can't believe every chassis ever built will not have any fractures anywhere whether it is 30years old or 2 years old....  I'm asking this because I just don't know, I'm ignorant to the dragster chassis itself and of course I will buy the SFI spec info., but that doesn't tell me if the chassis cracked somewhere or not.

This thread is not about tube size or placement, but about where to inspect a used dragster chassis for possible stress fractures over time racing and traveling to and from tracks... I sure wouldn't buy a tube chassis door car unless I crawl underneath and inspect welds myself which I do, so is a dragster chassis different in that respect?

I'm not trying to create a crap storm here ok?, I am only asking where to inspect as a buyer to make certain that chassis does not have fractures, That's it!   If I'm going to be running quicker than 8.50's and over 155mph, my chassis better be done right and have ZERO fractures.  I asked this question to find out if there are areas I need to look for first before purchase.  I apologize if it read differently.

John

29

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 04, 2017, 03:14:38 PM »

Awesome, add that to the thread beginning
Which copy do you guys find easier now a days, PDF file or paper?
I will get the paper copy.

30

Front Engine Dragsters / What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 03, 2017, 05:14:45 PM »

I thought Would start this thread to help myself and others that are looking into buying a completed chassis that has been used.  This thread isn't intended to cause a contest, but a fact finding thread to help locate areas on a chassis frame, rear axle housing, steering and so on to look at prior to laying cash down.

I have some experience looking at things such as chassis, rear axle housing, 4 link bars and hiem joints, brackets and a few other systems but for the most part I look for strange things...cracked paint, bent metal etc.

So, with that being said, I would think to inspect the rear axle housing itself, and the attached brackets that secure it to the frame.  I would check each bolt hole for movement and elongation, ANY loose hardware and I will zoom in on that area unless specified by seller, that's just me though...  next would be the rear & front motor plate locations and surrounding tube and support bars.  A magnaflux tool would be perfect in this whole process too, we all have one of those in our tool boxes right?  Lol. A black light and some floresant die will work too...

I would then just continue a frame inspection of all welds, joints and any holes that are in the chassis.  The steering attachment areas would be next along with the complete system itself.  Check for any looseness at heim joints, and any component that moves purposely.  I would finish with the back of the cage and lower chassis if wheelie bar/s were located for again elongated holes, fractures in paint...  what else on the steering system needs to be looked at closer?  Of course fuel tank, battery, fuel pump/filter, radiator, ign. Box mounting brackets and rubber mounts, what else did I miss?  Along with most of these components, the wiring, fuel lines, hoses etc., etc...

Now here is a question or two for the builders of these wicked macheeens

Where do a majority of fractures/ cracks show up on the chassis itself?  I would think in the center and towards the front near the steering from wheel torture from launches.  Are top bars more prone to cracking or bottom bars?  Support bars???  Is there other areas of concern to target more closely like the slip joint areas?

So, if you masters of chassis construction and repair could step in, I'm sure it would be much appreciated.

John