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Messages - BK

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Jon's Wheel House / Re: Tyre slip on the Rim
« on: December 01, 2021, 07:29:18 AM »
With Mickey Thompson tires I used dish soap straight out of the bottle and it made a big difference but was not 100%
With Hoosier slicks I have no problem with leakage without tubes.

Altereds / Re: chassis mods - length vs suspension?
« on: November 21, 2021, 05:45:54 PM »
How much air pressure in rear tires?
With my FED, once I got under 5#s I could do what ever I wanted with the brakes and it wouldn't bounce.
Once you get rid of the shocks your tires became your suspension.

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Braided Lines
« on: November 19, 2021, 03:07:40 AM »
The Push-On fittings really work nicely, but from a visual standpoint the look might be a little too different for many people's taste. I don't know if there would be a issue from any rules standpoint, but the Push-On tubing is some tough stuff. Once tubing is pushed on a fitting, and it takes quite a push to get it seated, I certainly can't pull it back apart. Price-wise it's probably a bit less than braided, but not a huge difference.

Does the hose you use with the push on fittings seem as flexible as the hose with the outer braid?

Spud Miller's Cave / Braided Lines
« on: November 16, 2021, 05:10:03 PM »
Planning on replacing the fuel and trans cooler lines on my car.
I have black fabric covered stuff now and would like to stick with that style.
Just looking for input on Brands if one is better than the other or should be avoided.
Also maybe which is the most flexible .

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: aluminum exhaust
« on: October 30, 2021, 06:09:08 PM »
I'm thinking if the pipes are short and straight it would work.
If they have a turn close to the port it will burn through.
If they have any kind of length they will crack.
Just my guess.

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel filter placement
« on: July 20, 2021, 07:34:05 PM »
I have mine before the pump.
I did learn that 40 micron is way too fine of a filter.
I think its around 100 micron now.
Clean it a couple time a year and my funnel also has a screen in it.

Roo Man's Room / Re: chassis top rail has bowed outwards
« on: May 13, 2021, 08:04:57 PM »
I am building my chassis 225" also. Thanks for the info about putting weight up front to control wheelies. Now I just have to figure out a good way putting weight up front. I am building the nose now and it would be real easy to incorporate some kind of aparatus for weight carrying. My engine is a SBC 350 and it is out 50 inches from the center of rear housing. The only thing I can think of is to stack plates on a small pole on a plate attached to the chassis.
If you have a tube front axle fill it with shot. Mine had a couple pipe plugs in it to add and remove shot.

I run water in mine on Alcohol.
I have a small Honda radiator and remote pump because fuel pump is off the cam.
I drive up and back. If I take two time trials I usually don't need to run the fan until around third round when things start to speed up a little. And only in staging to hit burn out box at the same temp each time.
Forgot and left pump and fan on last time out, car ran slow and lost because of it.

Roo Man's Room / Re: gaining ground clearance.
« on: March 09, 2021, 07:19:49 PM »
Not raising engine. I am actually lowering it to match rearend. All I need there is little shallower pan and was planning on building new one anyway. Could angle engine,but don't like idea and as stated in other thread here it has very little to no effect with tires we have today. In 1965 might have had big effect. I like the low to ground look, but does make driving around crappy pit roads a pain and loading and unloading can be difficult.

As said earlier frontend is fine its 3.5" as is. I am going with some new bolt A-arms and figure to build two sets with 1" difference in height and possibly different stagger.
I thought about spreading the mounting tabs for my A-Arms and then making spacers so I could move front wheels forward or backwards for different stagger.

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: wheel disc
« on: March 05, 2021, 04:14:48 PM »
Mine were riveted over spokes. On the right side.

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Gear ratio and consistency
« on: December 29, 2020, 02:39:37 PM »
The engine is new to me this year and I haven't run it yet.
With the engine that was in it 5.70s.
I was guessing more like 5.30s 40s with the added HP and will start the year with the 4.30s.
The reason for gear change is I have them so there wouldn't be any real cost involved to change them.
I dont have tires and we know how expensive they could be.
Did you notice any difference consistency wise with different size tire?

I am running an altered too.  Last year I looked at my car. When I built it we were racing the full quarter mile in Super Pro brackets. Now almost every (insured) track has switched to eighth mile S/Pro racing. In addition, even the smaller mom-n-pop strips have taken to doing effective starting line prep for good bite. I'm using 4.30 gears and 12 x 32 slicks on my 1800# altered with an inline six. So I asked myself "why am I still running 4.30 gears and a 1.76 'glide and carrying a huge tire down track?" I need more gear and less tire. So I switched from a 12 x 32 to a 10.5 x 28S which not only increased my effective gear ratio but also reduced the rotating mass of my tires since each of the smaller tires weighed about four pounds less. I did not change gear ratios.
I picked up about .05 in the sixty and around .10 in the eighth.
My six cylinder is making about 550 HP on gas. It runs 5.6 / 5.7 in the eighth and 9.0 in the quarter.

With 650 HP I'm guessing you are running around 5.1 / 5.2 times. If your track preps the track why not try a smaller tire before switching to a taller gear?

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Gear ratio and consistency
« on: December 28, 2020, 08:14:07 PM »
Figured this section was good for a gear discussion.
Any thoughts or experience as to what might be more consistent.
My car has 4.30 gear now I have a set of 5.30s if it looks like it might be more consistent.
The track I race at has been running 1/8 mile and doesnt look like that will change any time soon.
1700# Altered, SBC, 630hp @ 6500, 560ft-lbs @ 4700, 1.76 glide. 15x33 slick, converter flashed to 5200 RPM but that engine was about a 100hp less.

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: New to powerglide
« on: December 22, 2020, 07:17:00 PM »
I believe the support also backs up the gasket when in reverse or when the brake is set.
Hi Bill, Thank you for your input. I have since torn the tranny down and learned more about it.
Yes the support is dead weight, but it also serves as the alignment "dowel" for the tail housing.
My best bet is to get a light weight bearing support.

It's funny you suggested a 1.82 gear set for less rotating mass. Upon teardown the gear set was straight cut so I'm
pleased I have a good gear set. That's just great until I see the input shaft with a TCI part number that turns out to
be an input shaft for a 1.82 gear set. The more I looked and compared I finally realized I have a 1.82 carrier
with straight cut gears.

About the rear gear, It's a 9 inch strange setup. 4.30 gearset and light weight spool.

You talked about horsepower. I have no idea. Best pass as of now is 1.12 60, 5.09, 133 @1536 lbs. NE2 around here is 5.00 1/8 mile.

When I bought the car I weighed it in the front and it was 220. A friend with a FED told me it was about 100 lbs light so I built a
weight box and added 125 lbs to the front and took weight out as I learned more about it.

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: primer system jetting
« on: December 15, 2020, 07:10:59 PM »
The Rons primer system uses some sort of adjustable flow control at the spray bar.
Never looked close but it looked like a pneumatic piece at a glance.

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: fuel use per pass MFI
« on: November 13, 2020, 04:14:53 AM »
358 SBC a little over 500hp about a gallon for 1/8th mile.
When we ran quarter mile closer to 11/2 gallons with a long shut down.
I have a 5 gallon tank that saved me a couple time I forgot to put fuel in.

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