Messages

16

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Motor dies

« on: May 21, 2017, 09:47:06 PM »

    I have equipment that can handle the thicker material as well so I try to go with the .080 5052 on a fuel tank. I use a radius brake for the largest section, a Pullmax to form the ends, and a Eckold machine to shrink where needed. I figure the heavier wall may hold up better for a longer period of use, so I feel I might as well go with it when I can. But then for something smaller and not carrying weight like a puke tank, I would go with a lighter thickness. Around what time did 5052 first come in to use anyway? I still much prefer using annealed 3003 H14 for deep shaping, but only if corrosion resistance and polishing are not required.

17

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Motor dies

« on: May 20, 2017, 09:28:05 PM »

.080 5052 aluminum is a little more effort to work, but worth it in my opinion. Polishes a bit better than 3003 alloy for sure! Spud's article has a lot of ideas on tank design, and he's a down-to-earth good guy to work with as well.

18

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Alcohol fuel system maintenance between races

« on: March 23, 2017, 08:45:03 PM »

Out of the different oils to consider for Alky injection maintenance; WD-40, can dry out O rings, ATF, can make O rings swell up, Marvel Mystery, good stuff, but can gum up a bit if it sits for a long time, another oil to consider might be a good quality air tool oil, it's anti corrosion and moisture, contains a solvent to act against gum, and lubes tools meant to maintain tight clearances, which seams similar to an injection pump.

Just my 02

There is also a marvel mystery air tool oil as well.

19

Roo Man's Room / Re: ground clearance

« on: March 23, 2017, 08:52:47 AM »

Ok - a dumb question, just how low is considered too low, anyway?

When it wears holes in the lower frame rails 

Roo

Ok - a dumb question, just how low is considered too low, anyway?

When it wears holes in the lower frame rails 

Roo

Stocking up on skid plates.   

20

Roo Man's Room / Re: ground clearance

« on: March 22, 2017, 08:52:54 PM »

Ok - a dumb question, just how low is considered too low, anyway?

21

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Where to Start

« on: March 11, 2017, 11:27:53 AM »

There is no science in rake. It is the relation of how far the motor is out in front of the rear end and the clearance of the front of the oil pan to the ground. The further back along the driveshaft center line the more angle the engine achieves,the further out the more of the angle is reduced.
A powerglide is the most common installed drivline in drag cars today,but never was considered in the early days

Another reason for the reduced engine rake is the huge popularity now of the 9 inch ford rear end, which has the pinion intersect the ring gear at a lower point than the 8 3/4 Chrysler rears that used to be more common back in the day, and add to that, a large full length oil pan can be run as well.
But I still love the old look, myself.

22

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Where to Start

« on: March 08, 2017, 08:30:46 PM »

I really agree with the responses above, you will be way ahead on money and time if you can find a tagged car that can modified just a bit to suit your needs. If not, do give a lot of consideration to having one built by a reputable shop, you will still have a lot of satisfaction finishing one you receive as a roller, I also feel they re-sell better if you later decide some day to move on.

23

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: March 05, 2017, 05:50:38 PM »

Just before  starting, should put a long ratchet in the top pulley a back the motor down to clear the cylinders just in case. Brings up another point, if you are using a block starter and not a blower starter, you should at least have the blower starter mount and drive dog installed. When the block starter fails, there is a chance to borrow the remote blower starter and fire the motor

I'm sure its never a bad idea to back a hemi or any other motor down, but how effective is doing it on a wedge type combustion chamber? Would turning the engine with out spark plugs be an alternative?

24

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Where is everyone

« on: December 17, 2016, 09:22:46 AM »

I was thinking the same thing, I had to make sure I was logged in!

25

Roo Man's Room / Re: New fed chassis tubing question!

« on: October 29, 2016, 03:21:39 PM »

I built my car using a Tuttle plan and the SFI book, and it worked out well for me, the plan gave me working dimensions for a "average" size driver and the SFI book let me know how much I could deviate from the plan if I felt the need too. Also I was confident there would be no problem when it came time to tag the chassis. Getting the relationship of the seat to the rear end housing as ideal as possible to make the car comfortable seemed to be the biggest challenge, the rest was easy. Use an alignment bar, and do one final alignment after the chassis is completely welded and then last drill and ream the rear end mounting holes out to the bolt shank size.  I also tapered the rear end mount plates in at the bottom 1/8 per side to make sure the housing will still go in and come back out, as things may move around a bit during the final weld up.

26

Wanted to sell / Re: Anglia spindles

« on: May 14, 2016, 08:46:17 PM »

Got the spindles and steering box yesterday, all excellent parts, thanks Roger!