Topics

1

Wanted to buy / 4-71 blower

« on: December 07, 2015, 07:13:10 AM »

Not that I'm ready for it at this time but I thought I'd toss this out there to see if anyone has a 4-71 blower that they want to sell. I don't need snout at this time as I'm unsure of the length needed.

Andrew

2

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Blower setup for gas vs alcohol

« on: December 02, 2015, 08:23:48 AM »

Don't know much about blowers other than I want to run a 4-71 on my wife's Ford Flathead powered dragster I'm working on. I searched the web but didn't find any info on the difference between a blower setup for gas vs alcohol. We plan on running alcohol and the ones I've seen for sale so far say they're setup for gas. What's the difference in the setup?

Andrew

3

Wanted to buy / 8 3/4 Mopar 10 Spline Female Pinion Coupler

« on: November 23, 2015, 08:35:25 AM »

Looking for a 8 3/4 Mopar 10 Spline Female Pinion Coupler.

Andrew

4

Wanted to sell / B&J Two speed with Lakewood bellhousing

« on: September 08, 2015, 03:07:43 PM »

Reduced price to $1000. Need it gone so I can buy other parts.

Going with an automatic instead of the B&J two speed. Gear ratio is 1.70. Bell housing was on a Chrysler. Asking $1000 for everything OBO. Would consider partial trade for a Mopar 8 ¾ spool for 30 spline axles.

Andrew
503-707-4245

5

Roo Man's Room / Frame question

« on: September 08, 2015, 08:15:10 AM »

First, this is a rear engine chassis but you guys the ones that know this stuff. Back story. Purchased this chassis for my wife to run a rear engine Ford Flathead. Really only need to go 9.99 and slower but would like to see if I can get it certified for 7.50 and slower. Original builder did a great job on the moly chassis but last owner was a hack.

My question is in regards to the lower frame rail. As you can see by the photo, the rear frame rail (#3) is butt welded to a cross brace the front seat support (#1) and its butt welded to the front frame rail (#2).

I’ve read the General Regs and the the 7.50 regs and (other than pictures) it doesn’t mention that the lower frame rail needs to be a continuous piece in the roll cage area.

Before I get too excited about working on this, I want to verify if this is a NHRA legal setup. I’m been trying to contact our local Tech guy but he just doesn’t seem to want to return calls. It’s worth the $100 to have him do an initial inspection before I continue.

Thanks,

Andrew

6

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Question about custom pistons

« on: December 19, 2014, 08:28:57 AM »

Now that I have the crankshaft and rods I need to start looking into having custom pistons made for a supercharged nitro engine.  For a manufacturer, I’m leaning towards Ross due to their familiarity with Ford Flathead engines. Anyone feel there is a better mfg for pistons out there?

IMO the most critical aspect of these pistons is making sure the piston dome matches that of the heads. Do I just need to send in a mold of the dome? I guess I could just call them but thought I’d ask.

I've done a great job at throwing money into this build so what “Optional Features” should I also consider? Gas ports, skirt/dome coatings, etc.

Oh, one more thing. The machinist always asks for a piston before boring, but if I make a piston mold it will be pre-bore.  What should be done in this case?


Thanks,

Andrew

7

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Floyd Family Racing

« on: August 12, 2014, 10:24:15 AM »

Made the winners circle in Top Eliminator last weekend at Woodburn. Final run was the slowest of the weekend with a 7.70 @ 180 mph. Been having crank issues and had to change the #3 rod bearing after every pass.

Andrew

8

Wanted to buy / 1955 Desoto Hemi blocks

« on: June 23, 2014, 07:22:37 AM »

We popped one of our engines over the weekend and are getting a tad low on blocks. We need to bring a few more along and are looking to by a few more blocks. A little carnage from last weekend.

9

Spud Miller's Cave / Belt drive fuel pump plumbing question

« on: June 03, 2014, 10:42:44 AM »

I’ll be running a belt drive fuel pump with limited space. What is the best pump/plumbing setup for this? How close to the pump does the fuel shutoff valve need to be or does it matter. How about the primary bypass valve? I was thinking about picking up an Enderle 80A-1 pump, which only has one outlet, then route that up a foot or so to a 4-way shutoff valve and plumb in the primary bypass there.

Any suggestions on this?

Thanks,
Andrew

10

Roo Man's Room / Is this a legal butt weld splice?

« on: April 29, 2014, 10:43:50 AM »

I’m unable to find any company that can bend 1-3/8 x 0.058 4130 tubing with a 6” radius. Well, I did and they want $500 for 4 bends. Now I know why most chassis builders use larger diameter and thicker tubing… they can make the bends on a manual bender.

I need a wider shoulder hoop than what’s available (Mark Williams, The Chassis Shop) because I’m 6’5”. What I’d like to find out if I can use a 2” spacer to widen the shoulder hoop with an interior sleeve. It needs to meet the SFI Spec 2.6A (7.50 Seconds & Slower). They allow for a single butt weld splice in the center of the upper frame rail, I just wonder if this is legal as well.

Thanks,
Andrew

11

Wanted to buy / Wanted - FED front Axle and other stuff

« on: April 21, 2014, 08:33:08 AM »

Looking for a chrome-moly tube front axle around 42”-44” wide (kingpin to kingpin) with a 5”ish drop for Anglia spindles. Bare finish would be preferred but not necessary. Also looking for a Hilborn 150 # fuel pump, which I'll be a belt drive setup, and a front torsion bar.

Also, I'm interested in a Mickey Thompson magnesium 8 ¾ carrier if any of you have one squirreled away.

Thanks,

Andrew

12

Roo Man's Room / Modifying a chassis to meet spec

« on: March 06, 2014, 09:46:52 AM »

I have a couple of questions regarding chassis modifications in order for it to meet the SFI 2.6A Spec, which I own a copy of (should be free if you ask me). I need to remove or replace several of the back half uprights as well as the expanded metal “seat”, that’s welded to the frame. I didn't find anywhere in the spec about grinding on the frame rails. I only plan on removing the welds but, you know, things happen and I could unintentionally hit the rails.

Unless it’s completely obvious, do they even ask or look for such things when inspected a car? Anyone here have any tips or advice getting this hot rod up to date?

Thanks,

Andrew

13

Roo Man's Room / Who made these wheels

« on: March 05, 2014, 06:22:51 AM »

Didn't know where else to post this in the forum but I'm wondering if anyone knows the make of the rear wheels on this FED. It's for sale at a very reasonable price and I'm considering picking it up as a donor car. But then again, it may make a good cackle car for someone..

Thanks,

Andrew

14

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Ford Flathead dragster build

« on: March 04, 2014, 06:05:55 PM »

Now that it’s almost complete I thought I’d post a few pictures of a supercharger manifold I’m working on what seems like forever. I don’t have a machine shop so I cut every piece by hand and spend countless hours on the end of a file. I did have the top plate machined and a local shop do the welding. I’m going to start out running methanol then add nitro into the mix, but I have a long way to go before it’s ready to fire up.

I did find a chassis today for the engine, now to just get my wife to loosen her purse strings.

Andrew