Messages

241

Altereds / Re: how do i know when i need to cook my oil

« on: September 12, 2014, 08:01:25 PM »

I never cook the oil. I have always just made sure at the end of race day to get water temp up over 210* and the water steams right out.  Now I am running a vacuum pump and it helps some but very important heat up motor good at end of day and you are good. I also believe some people change the oil way more often than needed.

242

Altereds / Re: Dry block

« on: August 02, 2014, 06:36:30 PM »

Curly, are you running a radiator because you burn gas, or drive your racecar back from the track to your pit ?
If you are burning alky, your car will run faster if your motor is hot, 180° to 200° if you still run water, or 150-170° if dry.
If you are running fuel injection, lean your barrel valve to build more heat.
I run water just in my iron heads and iron block in my alky JFueler [ no pump or radiator] , running 7.00's @188 mph with 16;1 compression with no head gasket issues since I started running Cometic 3 pc gaskets.
If you are not sure if your motor is running too hot, next time you pull your heads off, look for black spots on your cylinder walls, if you have black marks, that is where is was red at onetime.

Good Luck, have Fun !
Jon

I run an Enderle hat on alcohol and bracket race. Still I would not run with out a radiator even if it is a small heater core just something to circulate and allow you to control it better.

243

Altereds / Re: Dry block

« on: July 27, 2014, 05:29:38 AM »

I run a very small Honda racing radiator from EBay and use fairly small hoses (-10). Cost about $75 with fan and shipping, works great and does not weigh much even full of water. If I remember right the radiator was under 10 lbs full of water. You still have water in the lines and block but it works great.

Personally I would not run one with out a radiator even if it is very small. I do not want hot spots or torched head gaskets or loss of power due to inconsistent temps.

244

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Injectorator

« on: July 04, 2014, 11:00:26 AM »

Let us know how it works out. I like those systems and think they may even be improved on more if they had gas in the squirter nozzles to make it easier to start and less fuel needed. The problem is a carb idles better uses less fuel and starts easier. The injection makes more power, the Injectorator is trying to make the best of both but I think could be a little harder to get just right.

245

Altereds / Re: Altered Weight

« on: July 04, 2014, 10:55:41 AM »

I weighed my car again and it was 1795 with me in it! ouch! I thought it was 1650. Not sure where I picked up all that weight. I guess I need to skip a taco. LOL.

246

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: How much spark advance with alcohol?

« on: July 01, 2014, 07:16:57 PM »

I do not think the fuel selection is as big of a factor in timing needed as chamber and piston design is. A more efficient piston and chamber needs less timing. I agree with staying a few degrees conservative on the timing. Plus there may be other variables. Your timing light or marks may be off a few degrees so you really need to run it and see what works best on your combination.

247

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Injectorator

« on: July 01, 2014, 07:10:34 PM »

You may contact me at  386-589-1620 or jabarton05618@gmail.com.  Jim Barton 

He is the guy selling those systems now, give him a call and see if he can help you.

248

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Injectorator

« on: June 23, 2014, 07:35:37 PM »

I believe the guy who is selling them and supporting them now is Jim Barton. As I understand it Sid waterman and Bill Mitchell worked together to design, test, build and sell them. I can get Jim's number if you need to talk to him and like I said I think they should be a good system when you get it tuned right.

249

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Injectorator

« on: June 20, 2014, 08:21:44 PM »

I think Injectorators are a good idea do not know why more people do not use them. That is where the problem lies, there is not many people who can give you a baseline. With that said they are basically a standard mechanical fuel injection with a set of squirter nozzles added.
Cheapest and best way to get it to work is dyno it with someone who knows how to tune injection. With out data it is just a guess.
If you think it is fat down low you can lengthen the turnbuckle on your barrel valve to lean it down some.   You can probably put smaller nozzles and different plastic cam to cut the fuel down on your squirter system just like a carb?
If you have any high speed lean outs I would disable them until you got rest of mixture right then start adding HS a little at a time. Looks like you have several bypasses and I would find out exactly what each one does, what jet it has in them and where they open at. A leakdown tester can check them quickly and easily. I put a -6 an fitting on my leakdown tester and can check them at the track with my small El-Cheapo compressor.
Generally if I am not sure what it needs I try fattening it up first and see what it does. If it is fat it will not hurt much just slow down a little. If it is lean it could hurt the motor.
You can measure the turnbuckle with a set of calipers before you start making changes so you can return to your baseline if it does not work.
I got an Enderle hat last year, took me quite a while to get it where I wanted it and only took about 4 pulls to get it perfect on a dyno.
There is a guy who bought the rights to the Injectorators or selling them now, do not know exactly what the deal is but I can find him for you if you need me to. He may be able to get you a good starting point.

Nice looking car and good luck with the Injectorator, should work great when you get it dialed in.

250

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: water overflow tank ? size?

« on: May 18, 2014, 04:28:30 PM »

I got a very small Honda radiator off of EBay. It only cost about $65 with fan and it has the transmission cooling on it to. You can get them with out transmission cooler even cheaper. That thing does not hold much water at all but cools very good. I welded AN fittings on it and removed the cap and welded it over.
In my opinion I would get that small radiator and a small electric water pump. Run it anytime the motor is running.  It will not add much weight at all and will help keep car cool and consistent. If I remember right I saved about 35 Lbs over my other radiator that was fairly small and this one cools much better. I think the radiator only holds about 1/2 gallon of water when full then if you use -10 radiator hoses it will not have much water (weight) in there.  I see no reason not to run one.

251

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: My dads gate

« on: May 07, 2014, 03:43:36 PM »

Somebody has way too much time on their hands. LOL  Seriously that is nice and unique.

252

Altereds / Re: Altered Weight

« on: May 07, 2014, 03:40:32 PM »

Mine is not a Spitzer but it weighs 1650 with me in it full of fuel and ready to run. It is a 125" Four link with brakes on all four wheels and large radiator. SBC with aluminum heads and Iron Eagle block. 1900+ Lbs for car only sounds like a lot even with a big block.

253

Altereds / Re: TIRE PRESSURE

« on: April 15, 2014, 06:58:57 PM »

It is hard to answer what tire pressure you will need because of so many variables. One big variable is the gauge itself. I have seen 3 different gauges get three different measurements. So what ever gauge you use stick with it and only use it. I think a good starting point would be around 5 PSI though. Good photos of the launch can tell you if it is too low (tire wrapping up too much and rim too close to ground) Also if it is too low it can fold up over itself. Wrinkles in the sidewalls and some deformation in front of tire is good.

254

Altereds / Re: Brakes

« on: April 03, 2014, 07:51:37 PM »

Mine has front and rear brakes to one master cylinder. I have a completely separate system on a hand brake with additional calipers on rear only. The foot brake has the harder compound and the hand brake has softer compound. I did not like not having back up system just in case. Many of the tracks around here are shorter than I like and want to be able to stop. I know too many people who have had brake failures and it can get ugly quick with out a back up system.

255

Altereds / Re: race trailer list

« on: April 01, 2014, 04:09:55 AM »

I have an enclosed trailer with nice cabinets. I keep everything I need in there and keep adding to it. Make sure you put some snacks in there. Oil filters, spare set of plugs, jets, tools. I bought a very small cheap air compressor off of Ebay, very small and light weight, noisy as can be but it does everything I need it to do. Things like that I want small lightweight and easy to move and use. If it fails or gets stolen etc it is not much.
I would get a good QUIET generator. Mine is a Champion 2000 watt inverter type. You can not hear it running and will run all day long on one fill.
I put a radio in the trailer to hear the announcer when they call us. A couple of chairs to sit in and a fan to keep cool.
I put velcro on the back of my log book and my laptop so they will not slide off my counter when going down the road.
As for a list I made a long list and put everything in the trailer.
Tie downs along the wall for air tank, fuel etc are nice to have.