Messages

226

Spud Miller's Cave / DSR, Enderle, waterman or Aeromotive pump?

« on: November 22, 2015, 05:30:55 PM »

I currently have an Enderle 80A-1 pump and going to A) rebuild it or B) Buy a new pump and keep this one as a spare. Note, I also have a very good 80A but it is not the newer -1 so it does not rotate and can not fit in my chassis. May sell it or trade it off for something else.
My questions are:
1.  What is the difference on durability of them?
2. How hard are they to rebuild?
3. How much do they cost to rebuild?

On the surface the DSR pump looks interesting as it appears to be similar to blower type or oil pump and it would seem to me that design would last well. No vanes or anything like to wear and fail just two gears that pump. What ever I do it has to be fairly small and must rotate to clear the chassis. My current pump is 7 GPM but I could run anything from 5.5 to 7.5 prefer to be on larger side to be safe. Thanks in advance.

227

Altereds / Re: Altered or Front Engine Dragster

« on: July 16, 2015, 06:07:44 PM »

Here is a nice one do not know who owns it but it is interesting.

228

Altereds / Re: Altered or Front Engine Dragster

« on: July 16, 2015, 06:07:03 PM »

That black beauty is owned by Russel Mills (Sydney Australia) and was built by Richard Botica - the same talented guy who built my Fossil Fueler injected nitro digger.

Does anyone know what the wheelbase is on this Baby?

229

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: HI SPEED LEAN OUT--DO I NEED ONE?

« on: June 05, 2015, 08:15:07 PM »

I have a High Speed lean out on my motor is a help. But it is an Enderle hat and it may be different than yours and not much help on some. On the difference between dyno and track there are a few things different and you have to compensate for them.  What I did was set up my injection on the dyno and I used the O2 sensors once I got the best performance on the dyno. Now when you get to the track you have forced air into the hat and it will need a little more fuel which will give you better performance. But you are still shooting for same numbers on the O2 sensors.

Point is the dyno is a great tool to help you get the best ET but remember the goal is still ET and not dyno numbers. You can learn things in one day on the dyno that may take you months at the track.

230

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Flat under low end Load

« on: May 22, 2015, 08:08:07 PM »

Good Luck with it and let us know how it works. 

231

Altereds / Re: SBC Headers

« on: May 22, 2015, 08:06:21 PM »

I got a set of DynaTech weld up headers for my Altered and a friend welded them up for me.  They have nice bends and was easy to move where I wanted them before welding.  On my car the old Hedman headers hit the steering bar and my new headers fit great. When you weld them up you can make sure they fit like you want before you weld anything. Similar to these.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynatech/329/762-91510/10002/-1?parentProductId=750012#moreDetails

232

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Flat under low end Load

« on: May 18, 2015, 07:17:22 PM »

Now I do not know here but it seems to me if it was a bad chip it hurt it more on top RPM.  Do you know anyone who can loan you another ignition box to try? I know last year I had all kinds of problems car would run 5.09 one pass the next one 5.49 missing, popping and banging. Changed every thing out and kept testing the ignition box and it tested good. Finally changed it anyway and it ran like a top. Honestly I do not know what would make the ignition worse at low RPM and run good at higher RPM?
Rotor phasing may be an exception. Just do not know. Hope you find it quickly.

233

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Fuel Pressure Problem

« on: April 05, 2015, 07:34:28 PM »

I would not run anything that does not have a return regulator. First thing I would do is check and make sure pump is pumping. Pull the fuel line and make sure it is moving fuel. Then go from there.  If it is not moving fuel check to make sure pump is working, check grounds and make sure it is not locked up. Then check electrical and grounds.
If it is moving fuel then check regulator to make sure it is not stuck open some how.

234

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: lost my tune up

« on: March 10, 2015, 07:54:42 PM »

That is a really nice car. Okay on the tune up I would say go back to original tune and go from there. So you do not know where that is then my thinking is to fatten it up and see what it does. Will not hurt it as much to be fat.  If you have a 170 in there then I would put a 150 in there and see what it does. 
Barrel valve, how I set mine is adjust it to where it spits and stumbles at idle when I give it gas then fatten it up a little from there. Then I do a leakdown test on the barrel valve to get a baseline to return to.
Watch everything you can water temp, EGT, O2 if you have it and see what it is doing. There should be clues as to what it needs.

But if your car has been sitting a while I would say do a complete clean out of your fuel system before you do much. The alcohol can sometimes turn to a gel and that makes it act stupid. If you have trash in the lines then one cylinder may look lean while the others are fat and it will slow your car down. I had a problem with my car recently on the dyno and luckily my dyno guy had 8 O2 sensors. We were able to determine the cylinders were not all tracking the same. The dyno session was a success so I called it a day but it tells me there is a little more there. Some were getting richer while a few cylinders were getting leaner my thinking is it had some gel in the lines.  I cleaned all of the nozzles real good and have flushed a full gallon of alcohol through the lines to get everything out. Will test to verify this weekend to see if it did the trick.

Now I have had the alcohol turn to get several times with my carbs and I always use top lube. I really do not know what causes it or how to prevent it. Of course our injection systems with very small nozzles may be more sensitive to it even though they work at much higher pressure.  Do not know for sure but something to consider.

As I think about it more I would look closer at trash in the system than the tune up itself.

There are several places like Spud here that may give you a baseline tune up as a starting point if you can give them all of your information. I think there are many variables though and would be hard to get it perfect with out dyno or testing.

235

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Fuel Filter

« on: February 18, 2015, 04:18:20 AM »

I use two large filters where it comes out of tank and then it tees into one line to go to fuel pump.

236

Altereds / Re: Altered or Front Engine Dragster

« on: January 30, 2015, 07:53:32 PM »

Here is a nice one do not know who owns it but it is interesting.

237

Altereds / Re: Altered or Front Engine Dragster

« on: January 30, 2015, 07:47:17 PM »

I am thinking about building a long wheelbase Altered. What I have in mind is about 190" narrow front and a small mono wing right behind seat. Also would like the body to be similar to the newer Top fuel Dragsters. Sort of a Flashback to the Future.
I think it would have several advantages that a standard altered does not have. My current Altered is 125" and has been around a while. I have it working really well now and think I want to move on and try new ideas and challenges. The long wheelbase Altered is the direction I am leaning.

238

Altereds / Re: new NHRA altered wing mount rule

« on: November 22, 2014, 04:43:07 PM »

All rules are interpeted and enforced by the person who is teching your car that day. If you replaced the short strut  tube with a web plate, 2 bolts to the chassie and 2 bolts to the main strut, the chance of the support strut entering the cage is eliminated, thats the concern, besides since you built the thing how many times have you changed the strut angle at the track?

I am thinking of using a short plate or bar less than 6". I do not adjust strut bar anyway. There is a wing angle adjustment up top and I have changed it some in the past.

239

Altereds / Re: new NHRA altered wing mount rule

« on: November 21, 2014, 08:03:52 PM »

Mine is mounted to the frame above the rear end with a brace from roll cage to the main strut.  The brace is too long but if I move it lower and shorten to less than 6 inches would it be legal? Assuming the rule was to take effect now it would not pass as is but could be easy to modify brace to less than 6 if that did it.

240

Altereds / Re: new NHRA altered wing mount rule

« on: November 16, 2014, 02:42:42 PM »

So is it okay if wing is mounted to chassis like this?