FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: kiwikid on February 10, 2020, 04:05:35 PM
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Hoping I can get a bit of assistance here-
I have a FED running a blown Injected 540bbc with 2 speed lenco
I have a Crowerglide clutch that seems to be wearing a lot more than I would expect, ie 15thou after two passes
I set it up with an airgap of 35thou and wound the nuts (holding the springs in ) one and a half turns.
Keen to get a better idea of what other guys are finding works for them
Thanks in advance
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I agree, sounds like .015 is a bunch. i don't know much about them, learning a lot. i'll be watching.
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How much counterweight are you running? --how close is it to spinning the tires (hard) ? How well prepared is the track? Is it running close to its potential--horsepower/weight etc ?
Basically---if you have more power than the track can handle you need to slip the clutch more --if you don't have enough power you need to slip the clutch more to keep from pulling the motor down. If you have plenty of traction and power you need to add counterweight until the wheel speed gets too high--aka tire smoke.
Roo
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Do your floaters have "cutter" slots machined in???
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Roo man is dead on. IMO ad some weight till you smoke the tire and back up a little. Nothing wrong with over powering track once and while.It shows you are giving it all it will handle. By the way hazing the tire means its about right,big difference in hazing and smoking the tire.Wheel speed thats controlled is your friend.
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Thanks very much for the responses, I am new to these so may seem pretty ignorant, by counter weight are we meaning on the arms ??, at this time they only have the small not bolt, I am not sure of the weight - I will check tonight and respond
I will check for slot in floaters as well
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With my pedal clutch I burn .005-.007 I know I have burnt more than that but my shift light would stay on... just add some weight to your arms not sure how many grams you currently have on your clutch but figure that out and go from there
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Little tip. ebay has reloading scales and they are great for knowing how much weight you have and add.
Probably going to get some kick back here. Do not worry about the small number stuff. I have friend that has .25 gram increments and IMO its just headache thats not needed with any thing other than top fuel clutch with ton of fingers. I always made changes in 2 gram increments and worked great, but was on pedal clutch.
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With my pedal clutch I burn .005-.007 I know I have burnt more than that but my shift light would stay on... just add some weight to your arms not sure how many grams you currently have on your clutch but figure that out and go from there
For comparison, our A/F (BAD) pedal clutch car wore .003-.005 per pass. Closer to .005.
Titan 2 disk 10" lenco 2spd
Ran 6.30s, 224mph,
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Probably going to get some kick back here. Do not worry about the small number stuff. I have friend that has .25 gram increments and IMO its just headache thats not needed with any thing other than top fuel clutch with ton of fingers. I always made changes in 2 gram increments and worked great, but was on pedal clutch.
I ran a East West 9” 3 disc and fought it went from blowing the tires off to walking through the clutch with a 2 gram change which as from what I was doing was the smallest change I could make. Well after talking to the guy I sold that clutch to (he bought it as a spare) he would make .25 gram changes on his car with nylon washers I wish I thought of that. But yes with my Crower 10” 2 disc I make 2-3 gram changes that make a difference.
Once you know how many grams are on your counterweights I would add 8-10% more and make a pass
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Thanks guys for this info, I will be back working on car this weekend, can I just ask when we are talking a dding weight of say 2 grams, - this is per arm I take it ??
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Is it an older six lever clutch? If so, you may need higher amounts of weight as suggested. If you want small increments use AN washers--they come in .030 and .060 thickness. Also try half nuts vs full nuts or longer bolts as ways to change weight.
Get yourself a gram scale and quantify what you have available to change counterweight. A compartmentalized fishing tackle style box is a good way to keep all of your parts organized. Also keep a book with details of what you try.
If you have a crew member video your runs (a very good idea) a "slip" stripe on the tire is also a good plan, especially if you don't have a data logger. When it does spin the tire how quickly and how much the stripe blurs will also give you valuable information as to what is happening and when.
Roo
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Thanks heaps, will follow this advise
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Thanks guys , it is a 6 lever clutch , it had only had the nut/bolt on the levers, this weighed 16+ grams, I have bought an assortment of longer nuts bolts , varying thickness washers etc, will weigh them all so I can make subtle changes.
The car has been set really really soft, only 28 degrees timing, still rich,
Will try adding 2 grams on each lever and go from there
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16 grams for all 6 levers or 96 grams total 16 grams each lever?
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Each lever had nut and bolt on it weighing 16g so 96 in total
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Each lever had nut and bolt on it weighing 16g so 96 in total
With that kind of weight on your arms I wouldn’t be afraid to add 6 grams total. What you want to consider is total weight not weight per arm.
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Hey KiwiKid:
Any updates on how your clutch is working?
The only information I didn't see was the gear split on your two speed.
A large spread can try and pull the engine down and cause extra slip / wear on your pack thickness.
Matt