FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: retroboy on November 21, 2014, 10:24:17 PM
-
Howdy
I'm putting a just for fun combo together to go racing on a couple of 1/8 mile tracks. I see guys here talking about 10,000 RPM small blocks using 7,000 RPM converters. Now that's way out of reach for a lot of us so lets talk about our home built low buck just for fun combo's.
I have a 150" chassis, 31x12 MT tyres, 4.3 gears, 904 TF trans with an 8" converter - no trans brake so about 3000 is about where I can hold it with my hand brake. Engine wise a 360 Chrysler with an old Racer Brown ST 21 cam, mechanical injection and a Vertex wil be getting the show on the road. That's it no electronic driver stuff, no data loggers, no radiator, 4 feet of wire and nothing much else. I haven't run this down a track yet - waiting on some body work. I'm hoping for high 5's on the eighth. What are you little guys building and racing?
Cheers
Tony
-
I run a 200 inch f.e.d. 406 sbc pg 4:57 ford 9 inch. Crower stack injection on alcohol. Shift at 6100 with 5200 stall. run 5.60s 1/8 8.90s 1/4. delay box but always bottom bulb at 4800rpm.No cross talk.
-
Here's mine- 135" wheelbase, 327 Chevy, forged crank, pink rods, 11:1 pistons, 305 heads with port and bowl work done, Schneider 299F cam, 1966 2 1/16" Hilborn injectors, 150 pump, shorty powerglide, no trans brake, Chrysler 8 3/4 with 3.73 gears on a spool, Willwood brakes. Not done yet, but hope to run mid 9's in the 1/4 mile. Chassis is certed to 7.50, but I don't see me ever getting close to that. I hope to have it track ready by the end of next year.
-
5.7, 124 1/8th, 350, pg, 8-3/4 4.30,just for fun
-
The great thing about drag racing is that we have so many options for classes we race in . You don't have to put a big buck combination to race . I think that we all share a common bond in our love for front engine cars and I respect everyones opinion . I enjoy hearing about all of the builds on this forum The 2 most important things to me are to be safe and keep the fun factor high ! Bill
-
The great thing about drag racing is that we have so many options for classes we race in . You don't have to put a big buck combination to race . I think that we all share a common bond in our love for front engine cars and I respect everyones opinion . I enjoy hearing about all of the builds on this forum The 2 most important things to me are to be safe and keep the fun factor high ! Bill
^^^ what Bill said!
-
The great thing about drag racing is that we have so many options for classes we race in . You don't have to put a big buck combination to race . I think that we all share a common bond in our love for front engine cars and I respect everyones opinion . I enjoy hearing about all of the builds on this forum The 2 most important things to me are to be safe and keep the fun factor high ! Bill
^^^ what Bill said!
What Bill and Ricardo said!
-
Voxnut your car is a Beauty!! Is that a King Chassis?
-
Here is my 200 in Cenpen new build--6 passes so far
Glide , 4.22 gear, 33 inch MT's flea market 8 inch converter had 6000 stall on the box--- 350, domes, small roller , Hilborn on alky-- has run several 5.60's 122 MPH no quarter mile runs yet
The most fun I have ever had!!!!!!!!!! Looking forward to next season
-
here's mine. built just to have fun
150"
stock 472 Cadillac
3200 convertor
Pg with trans brake
9" rear with 2.73 gears
33/10.5w/15 MTs
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff238/mfp-66/44220be9-a41c-4fa3-9f89-175add71d151_zps920369b4.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/mfp-66/media/44220be9-a41c-4fa3-9f89-175add71d151_zps920369b4.jpg.html)
still doing setup runs so no real times yet
-
It is easy to forget that these are supposed to be FUN.
That is what I built mine for.
Good luck and be safe.
-
Right Glenn!
Love the body on that Caddy!!!
-
You got me thinking about low buck combo's . When my son BJ fist started drag racing he bought an old RED from a friend of ours really cheap . It needed a lot of work and we did it in my garage over the winter . A friend of ours gave us a short block 327 block .030 over small journal 283 crank and small journal rods ! I had an old set of 461 heads that we did a valve job on . a roller cam from a stock car and some swap meet rockers ,intake and carb a 750 . I found a used shorty kit and brake and a well used Fairbanks converter that my buddy Lenny from Ultimate Converters fixed up . I don't think there was 1 new part on that car . Bj raced that car for 2 seasons and had a blast with it ! WE would go to the big buck bracket races at Atco and go a lot of rounds with it ! The car was deadly consistent and more than once we got down to 5 cars in a 10,000 dollar race ! It wasn't the fastest It ran 9 1s at around 145 but it sure was fun
-
This is a fun user friendly FED I picked up from a friend and did a rehab on 355 small block scat rotating assembly pro comp aluminium heads hydraulic roller on gas turbo 350 built 4500 stall foot brake manual shift prior owner ran 112 in the 8th. cant wait till spring.
-
Have thought about building one of my old small blocks up and having some fun. Have cpl 327's,3-283 and 4 350's that are taking up room. Would be fun to just build one up do some head work on factory heads and put in decent liittle cam and go run the crap out of it. Biggest cost would be machine work and some 15x10 wheels with slicks. Man you guys are bad influance.
Something about those old smallblocks that just fun.
Might just have to give it a try after I get car running and tuned out with Hemi. Have a fast motor and a lets just play and if it brakes so what motor
-
if you want low buck fun, put a stick shift in a digger. Wheels up every time, lots to do from the seat clutching and banging gears on the shift light.
-
Voxnut your car is a Beauty!! Is that a King Chassis?
Thanks! Yes, it's a King Chassis that I asked Brian to tweak some specs for me on. Looking forward to finishing it sooner than later. Your car looks like a ton of fun!
Dean
-
Your car has " The Look"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love it!!!
These things are the most fun you can have !!! No matter the speed they are Tons of Fun to drive!
The big thing that I found out is that you must have some crew every time you go to the track--I just never thought about that as I drove a door car for years--It is sort of a PIA--Folks all say they will go and WANT to go but when it comes down to loading up and taking off the numbers dwindle down and you are often left begging for help--Cultivate your help while you build the car! Buy a Big cooler for your rig.
The day you make that first pass is going to be one of the best days you will ever have--Keep working!
-
Howdy
I'm putting a just for fun combo together to go racing on a couple of 1/8 mile tracks. I see guys here talking about 10,000 RPM small blocks using 7,000 RPM converters. Now that's way out of reach for a lot of us so lets talk about our home built low buck just for fun combo's.
I have a 150" chassis, 31x12 MT tyres, 4.3 gears, 904 TF trans with an 8" converter - no trans brake so about 3000 is about where I can hold it with my hand brake. Engine wise a 360 Chrysler with an old Racer Brown ST 21 cam, mechanical injection and a Vertex wil be getting the show on the road. That's it no electronic driver stuff, no data loggers, no radiator, 4 feet of wire and nothing much else. I haven't run this down a track yet - waiting on some body work. I'm hoping for high 5's on the eighth. What are you little guys building and racing?
Cheers
Tony
Now I've worked out how to post pic's - here's mine.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/20141130_125144_zpsaf887e0e.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/20141130_125144_zpsaf887e0e.jpg.html)
-
This is a Mates car here in South Australia. It can trace it's heritage back to the mid 1960's. At different times it ran with a flathead V8,a six cylinder Jaguar and a 332 FE Ford big block. It had a new chassis through it some time in the 1970's using plans copied from a magazine and ran with a 289 and clutch-flight. Now days it has a basically standard 302W with a solid camshaft and fuel injection. It has a C4 trans and a 1955 Ford Customline diff with 3.7 gears. Best to date leaving from idle is 6.1 one the eighth only using 1st and 2nd gears. It's been off the track for a little while but now that other distractions are out of the way (restoration of a Y block powered 1960's Fiat altered) it will be back freshened up and ready to rock and roll in the new year looking for a 5 second pass
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/kymbo_zpsc2755811.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/kymbo_zpsc2755811.jpg.html)
-
If by little guy you mean on a tight budget.................. ;)
Our combo is
2007 Fastech 200" full body
Started with the injected 65 401 Buick Nailhead.
Current engine is a 462" Buick iron block.
4 Port Hilborn Alky injected.
Super-mag 4.
Hosier 33x12x15
3.89 Ford 9"
P/G with brake 4400 rpm stall leave at 4000
Best run was a 1.10 60' , 4.95 @ 144 1/8th , 7.82 @176.9 (trans eating itself up on the pass)
The day we ran the pass was a balmy 49-53 degrees. We had a difficult time trying to get the engine temp up above 160.
Trans is repaired and the converter damage is yet to be determined. Hope to know soon, though....
Good thread look forward to seeing more builds.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c389/buquick/2014%20GS%20Nats/IMG_4896_zps3ab9acad.jpg)
-
What it this budget thing you speak of. Is that where you have acertain amount of money and not just hope for cpl bucks on side so you can buy a new part? If so I got to get me one of those. Right now I got to get me torque converter , driveshaft, Heads finished and a starter mounted. Getting closer anyway.
-
Great to see some different combo's - SBC seems to dominate as the power plant of choice but that comes as no surprise. Interesting to see the Cadillac and the Buick powered cars. Speaking of the Buick - Supercat with the 3.89 gears and tall tyres what sort of finish line RPM does the car see on the 1/8th and on a full track.
-
I Love Retroboys Mopar! I drag raced Mopars for over 25 years--LOVE them but..when I got my FED chassis it was set up for the SBC so I did not fight it--I gave in--Have to say the "Mopar Tax" I had been paying all those years adds up--It has been such a JOY to buy quality SBC parts for a Fraction of what same Mopar part would be--I Love my Chevy but will have a Hemi in a FED before I quit ---NO doubt!
-
Mopar Tax...... tell me about it. Man, if i could only get a tax break and be able to fit a big block mopar in the frame. You chevy guy's have it made. I do get a certain satisfaction from putting a big block chevy RED on the trailer with my small block mopar though.
Got the motor out right now to freshen for next yr. Changing cams and getting the heads cnc ported. Looking to see if we can step-up and run with Glenn in the 8.0 class next yr.
Here' what she is right now.
She's a 1970 170" Woody
415 SBM 12.8/1cr with Indy 360-1 heads
Enderle two holer injected on alky
Glide w/ 8 3/4 4.30 gears
Had been running 33x12 M&H now on 31x10.5 Hoosiers.
Best so far 8.41@159
5.30 @129 1/8
1.15 sixty foot leaving at 2,200
-
Nice car Pipe!
-
Thank You, Sir. Watched the vid. Of you On youtube and can only think of 2 words. HOLY CRAP!!!
-
The Mopar tax - try living half way around the world, being outnumbered about 500 to 1, where you ring up about parts and the guy just isn't intetested when you say Chrysler. Thank goodness for the Internet and guys like Dave Hughes
-
Try Mopartsconnection.com Marsh Performance my best pal Todd Marsh we are master WD for everything Mopar and less $$ than others Indy dealers etc anything you need!!! Tell Todd I sent ya!
-
Pipe Dreams, how much did your performance improve when you went from 33x12 MH to 31x10.5 Hoosier ? And what width rims are you using ? And Oh Ya what tire pressure is working best for you ?
Jon
-
Pipe Dreams, how much did your performance improve when you went from 33x12 MH to 31x10.5 Hoosier ? And what width rims are you using ? And Oh Ya what tire pressure is working best for you ?
Jon
Picked up a consistent.03 to a best .05 in 60'. The M&H tires are a really soft compound that was designed for N/TF and I had put them on the car right after I had finished building the car. Not knowing how much a fed likes wheel speed.
The Rims are an old set of 15x10 ansens. Tire pressure 6.5 to 7 depending on the track. Hoping to gain a little more with the d2585's from you when they come in.
I' m on the list for 2 tires, right?
-
Before I got stupid and plugged a blown BBC in and then bent the chassis.
Fairly low buck build. Old chassis with a few updates, tired 383 from a street rod with a Hilborn from a roundy rounder, 10:1 flat tops and had a flat tappet cam ground with little to no overlap to make the motor think it had more compression. A little money in the trans and converter, some in the heads, and a little help from Frank and Scott Parks telling me what to fix.
Had more fun with this configuration running 5.50's with a best of 5.20 (light weight driver and below sea level air).
Car weighed 1425 with me. Kid driving in the pic was 60lbs lighter.
-
We ran a 12-1 compression 355 factory steel crank and connecting rods, roller cam, set of Brodix Track 1's tunnel ram with 660 center squirters, old accel dual point, cheap carter fuel pump, factory six qt. oil pan. We ran a powerglide, 5500 stall convertor, 4.30 gears, and 31" X 10.5" tires can ran 8.60's easily
-
Yes Shawn, you are on the list for 2 D2585 GoodYear 31x12x15, I hope to submit the 150 tire order in the next 2 weeks.
You have a great looking car ! You might want to think about raising the upper tubes on your wheelie bar, up as far as you can, and delete the tubing between the upper and lower bars, it will work better.
Feel free to call me with any questions, 805-444-4489
Jon
-
As far as "Mopar Tax" I dissagree. I realize that when it comes to SBC parts there are more choices, making the prices cheaper. But unless your building a full tilt racing engine, Mopars "especially Big Blocks" can be made to run very hard with factory parts.
I have a 68 383 with a rerung shortblock, stock 346 heads with handlapped valves, 484 Hyd. cam, TM6 intake, 750 Holley DP and headers and it runs 12.50s in a 3500 lb Coronet. I don't know what it would run in a 1500 lb rail but I'm sure it would dip into the 9s.
Please understand. I'm not trying to start a pi$$ing match as I Love and Appreciate ALL old Cars. When it comes to basic Little Guy Hot Rodding there are alot of choices.
By the way, Great looking FEDs everyone!
-
In stock form Mopars ruled the streets I agree I have been Mopar only racer for over 30 years then...I got a 355 SBC
Photo attached is of 440 I am finishing up this wk end --Harland Sharp is one of the only rocker kits that can stand roller spring pressure on a Mopar--my dealer costs over $700 Compare to Scorpion rockers made in USA that will handle up to 800 lb open SBC foe dealer cost of around $220
That is the thing I am talking about
Same with aluminum heads--This 440 will be a nice unit and run stinking fast but the price of every piece in it is near double triple compared to SBC--
I love anything that runs good --I build them all but if you want a real race Mopar then be prepared to pay the "Mopar Tax" :)
-
I agree Dave. Like I said, unless its a full tilt racing engine. Mopars respond SOOO well to basic hot rod parts, as well or better than most. As far as little guy combos with low buck power plants like alot of the posts have shown, I think a basic hot rodded Mopar would make a FED fly and not cost anymore. Thats what I meant.
-
I wish one would have fit in my chassis!!!! I am a Mopar man from start to finish but am loving these cheapo Chevy Small blocks!
-
Mopar tax paid here too! But at the performance level for a just 4 fun combo it shouldnt be much. Roller cam will drive the cost alot. If you stick with std intake ports itll help with $$ too. Theres a point on the higher end though where everything is custom and it costs no matter the logo on the block. In any case its always nice to see something different at the track! 4 cyl renault anyone? ;-)
Tony
-
I'll come outa the closet. I have a couple 401 AMCs. Rambler anyone!!!
-
In stock form Mopars ruled the streets I agree I have been Mopar only racer for over 30 years then...I got a 355 SBC
Photo attached is of 440 I am finishing up this wk end --Harland Sharp is one of the only rocker kits that can stand roller spring pressure on a Mopar--my dealer costs over $700 Compare to Scorpion rockers made in USA that will handle up to 800 lb open SBC foe dealer cost of around $220
That is the thing I am talking about
Same with aluminum heads--This 440 will be a nice unit and run stinking fast but the price of every piece in it is near double triple compared to SBC--
I love anything that runs good --I build them all but if you want a real race Mopar then be prepared to pay the "Mopar Tax" :)
I could not disagree more. The TAX you paid is because of the parts you selected by choice. Any big block motor can easily best a SBC on cost when the power level is set at 600 or more HP. I also build motors for a living, I know very well the SBC at below 400 HP is no cheaper to build than say a SBF I build both every day. Anyone building a big block for drag race only is wanting at least 600 HP. To build a SBC at 600 HP you had better find a load of used parts or you won't even be close in cost. The cheap SBC goes away fast when reality sets in.
-
I don't care if it has a Helicopter engine but I started this thread so I want you all to calm down. Crikey. At the bottom dweller budget level the engine is just a lump of cast iron and doesn't know what it is. So Froggy, Tony '66 and Van how about some pics and details of your little guy set ups.
Cool yeah Groovy.
Cheers
Tony
-
Im in middle on the mopar thing. My combo is low buck because I have them laying around.High dollar because of what they are. TFX-92 Hemi's with BAE heads. My choice sell these at huge loss and buy chevy or make these work.Minor problems like keeping rocker adjusters alive in them with lack of pressure fed oil(thru pushrods),nothing made for these thats needed to run bracket race deal,not going to run water in solid block and billet heads.
Up sides.A 1000 hp is pretty simple to build and when you consider these are real close to same as modern fuel engine its super low on abu8se scale. Plus nothing looks meaner than big fat hemi sitting in a FED except a blown fuel hemi sitting in a FED.
Its hard to say your running little guy combo when its all aluminum 526 hemi,buts its almost cost free.Heck with car ready for converter,driveshaft,gauges and wiring I am still below 6k in car and should be below 10 when its on track and painted with short and full body.
Still would love to have a stout running SBC combo for car.If starting from scratch I wouls have to say SBC would be way to go for cost and fun.
-
Im in middle on the mopar thing. My combo is low buck because I have them laying around.High dollar because of what they are. TFX-92 Hemi's with BAE heads. My choice sell these at huge loss and buy chevy or make these work.Minor problems like keeping rocker adjusters alive in them with lack of pressure fed oil(thru pushrods),nothing made for these thats needed to run bracket race deal,not going to run water in solid block and billet heads.
Up sides.A 1000 hp is pretty simple to build and when you consider these are real close to same as modern fuel engine its super low on abu8se scale. Plus nothing looks meaner than big fat hemi sitting in a FED except a blown fuel hemi sitting in a FED.
Its hard to say your running little guy combo when its all aluminum 526 hemi,buts its almost cost free.Heck with car ready for converter,driveshaft,gauges and wiring I am still below 6k in car and should be below 10 when its on track and painted with short and full body.
Still would love to have a stout running SBC combo for car.If starting from scratch I wouls have to say SBC would be way to go for cost and fun.
They a shaft rocker? Why can't you run an external line through the rocker covers into the end of the shafts and then where you need it?
And I agree I have a mate who lives in the US and I'd often thought I should get him to buy me some out dated KB or JPI or something and send it on down.
Cheers
-
Check out the, "Advantages or a Chevy" page on this site.
http://www.highflowdynamics.com/
A stock iron BBF will make a ton of power.
-
I still say that dollar for dollar that a small block Chevy is the way to go . There are so many parts for them in their stock form that can produce good power . A good 4 bolt 350 block and a 350 forged crank should be easy to find a decent set of rods and a forged piston . A set of trw or sealed power would be just fine . There are a lot of chevy heads that are good 461 if you can find a set 462's 292's are all good heads .You don't even need a roller cam a good flat tappet cam would work well . I really don't know any thing about Ford or Mopar engines so I can't say witch one is better or worse . Chris get that car finished !
-
I bleed buick. no way I could start over with another brand....other than adapting other brand parts to fit the 350 buick. ;D. but we are working on it on go faster. maybe even tune it like it needs to be. 10.2's @ 128 isn't too bad. hopefully in the 9's this year. it's a fun car. no more door cars for us.
-
Ok so I should probably post something more helpful than a suggestion to hot rod a Renault!
Neither of my cars really fit the budget idea anymore, but I did put together a 413 for my brother that was really a bunch of leftover parts. The short block was left at the machine shop in pieces so the price was right. A old set of iron heads with 2.08/1.88 valves and single 4 intake went on it, the cam was a flat tappet w/500 lift. Couldn’t fit a bigger cam as the valves were too close to the cylinders on the intake side. Compression wound up around 9.75 to one. In a 3700 lb car it runs 12.20’s which supposedly works out to roughly 400 hp at the wheel. With 400 at the wheel of a 1500 lb car it looks like low nines? Anyway, even with totally mismatched parts it made decent power, and with the lightweight of an FED 400 hp goes a long way.
Big down side to big block mopars is the block is heavy, and wide. My starter is relocated to the right side, and getting in/out is tough. Small block should solve both problems.
I put together a 360 magnum for my other brother that was really nothing more than a 408 stroker kit with a cam someone was getting rid of. It was something like 217 duration on the intake at 050 and mid 500’s lift with the rockers he had. That ran mid 12’s in a 3800 lb truck, so similar power.
In any case, I would stick to a flat tappet cam. Most of my $$ was spent on upgrading valve train parts to keep up with the roller cam, and valve springs get to be an expensive maintenance item over time. No doubt getting the job done with a SBC would be easier, parts are everywhere. But if you have the small block mopar, use it and enjoy! Low 9’s or high 8’s is still quick and would still get the adrenaline flowing, plus, you’ll still have the coolest car at any given track, given the engine placement!
BTW, love your car. It has that old school style I wish my car had.
Tony
-
Ok so I should probably post something more helpful than a suggestion to hot rod a Renault!
Neither of my cars really fit the budget idea anymore, but I did put together a 413 for my brother that was really a bunch of leftover parts. The short block was left at the machine shop in pieces so the price was right. A old set of iron heads with 2.08/1.88 valves and single 4 intake went on it, the cam was a flat tappet w/500 lift. Couldn’t fit a bigger cam as the valves were too close to the cylinders on the intake side. Compression wound up around 9.75 to one. In a 3700 lb car it runs 12.20’s which supposedly works out to roughly 400 hp at the wheel. With 400 at the wheel of a 1500 lb car it looks like low nines? Anyway, even with totally mismatched parts it made decent power, and with the lightweight of an FED 400 hp goes a long way.
Big down side to big block mopars is the block is heavy, and wide. My starter is relocated to the right side, and getting in/out is tough. Small block should solve both problems.
I put together a 360 magnum for my other brother that was really nothing more than a 408 stroker kit with a cam someone was getting rid of. It was something like 217 duration on the intake at 050 and mid 500’s lift with the rockers he had. That ran mid 12’s in a 3800 lb truck, so similar power.
In any case, I would stick to a flat tappet cam. Most of my $$ was spent on upgrading valve train parts to keep up with the roller cam, and valve springs get to be an expensive maintenance item over time. No doubt getting the job done with a SBC would be easier, parts are everywhere. But if you have the small block mopar, use it and enjoy! Low 9’s or high 8’s is still quick and would still get the adrenaline flowing, plus, you’ll still have the coolest car at any given track, given the engine placement!
BTW, love your car. It has that old school style I wish my car had.
Tony
Well here's a super cool supercharged Renault from a local South Australian Speedway in the late 1960's
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/renault_zps59360032.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/renault_zps59360032.jpg.html)
And here's my contribution to the argument - LOL
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/20141109_140817_zpsc1d68878.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/20141109_140817_zpsc1d68878.jpg.html)
Let's see you home brewed set up's
Cheers
-
I don't care if it has a Helicopter engine but I started this thread so I want you all to calm down. Crikey. At the bottom dweller budget level the engine is just a lump of cast iron and doesn't know what it is. So Froggy, Tony '66 and Van how about some pics and details of your little guy set ups.
Cool yeah Groovy.
Cheers
Tony
No pics but I gave details (about as detailed as it is) of my 383 Mopar in a door car. Another thing I found about low buck is that no matter what brand, if you get involved with the rest of the crowd that runs the same brand its alot easier to find good deals.
If you want to strike gold you have to pan alot of creeks!!
-
Back in the late 70's I ran a FED with a early Hemi, 331's & 354's All the time I would be approached at the track If I wanted to buy some old Hemi parts & I always said yes. I bought everything I could & would run adds & sell of the stuff I had no use for. It turned out I made more money than I had invested, so the parts I kept and ran were always free.
I remember one night at OCIR we ran against a 55 Chevy & Keven beat him. In the cool down lane I went over to shake his hand and say good race, the guy went off on me big time, You with your big dollar Hemi & sandbagging just pisses me off. I just stood there for a moment and said to him, look It's just a bunch of junk parts thrown together, it just happens to run real good( 8.70's ) and we dialed a lower ET than we have ever gone. This just made him madder, so I tell him just give me a few minutes to unbolt the motor and I keep my mag & injectors & you can have the motor for $400 bucks. This just made it worse, so I just walked away.
Later The guy came over to our pit and apologized, it so happened that a few other racers overheard his rant & told him that it was just as I said, a bunch of old parts thrown together to go out and have fun.
-
Van,
I'll take the Hemi for $400!
-
Van,
I'll take the Hemi for $400!
After seeing the Ford Hemi I just bought for $100 now you have Hemi fever. No known cure !!
-
A Ford hemi for $100. ? Now that is the buy of the year! Any pictures?
-
Local bracket guy did same thing Van.He had basement full of old Hemi's back in late 80's.He passed few years ago, not sure what his wife did with left over parts.She should have had enough to make for good old age fund if she got anywhere near market value for them. Hopefully his kid helped her sell them off and not get screwed over.
Hemis is one tough motor . Chrysler stuff that is. Ford well its a ford enough said since I was told if can't say something nice say nothing.I have to go with nothing. Hemi Heads flow better than most high dollar BBC heads with very little work. Used parts can be bought cheap,just avoid stuff from fuel cars like cranks and rods.Block and heads can be had at great deal and if bad its obvious.
-
A Ford hemi for $100. ? Now that is the buy of the year! Any pictures?
The Lincoln DOHC 5.4 they are in junk yards everywhere, but not for $100. This is the baddest motor made in the US. It finished 1st,2nd,3rd, in the engine masters contest last year. It's gone 5.80's, 220 on turbo alky. anyone (but a Chevy guy) could just buy a carb top & run a distributer off one of the cams, have the cams reground, new pistons & rods & have a real Hemi Cammer that will fly for cheap. All the Chrysler & Chevy guys cried the blues after the bad Fords ran in the Engine masters last year, I am sure that they will never allow them back.
-
A Ford hemi for $100. ? Now that is the buy of the year! Any pictures?
The Lincoln DOHC 5.4 they are in junk yards everywhere, but not for $100. This is the baddest motor made in the US. It finished 1st,2nd,3rd, in the engine masters contest last year. It's gone 5.80's, 220 on turbo alky. anyone (but a Chevy guy) could just buy a carb top & run a distributer off one of the cams, have the cams reground, new pistons & rods & have a real Hemi Cammer that will fly for cheap. All the Chrysler & Chevy guys cried the blues after the bad Fords ran in the Engine masters last year, I am sure that they will never allow them back.
Oh, I was thinking 427 SOHC or the Boss 429. I will have to look at the Lincoln DOHC Engine masters contest.
-
Finished the body work now on my home built special. I could run it now as is but as we approach autum and winter here in the Southern Hemisphere I will now strip it paint and detail ready for next season. When I was in my 20's it took me 9 months to build my FED. Now in the top end of my 50's it's taken 2 years ! I can't wait to go racing again 26 years this month since my last trip down a race track and I have some of the same crew now that I had then with the youngest being 56 and the eldest at 74.
Cheers
Tony
and don't forget to post your little guy combos.
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/DSC03998_zpsf08c927c.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/DSC03998_zpsf08c927c.jpg.html)
-
Looks, nice, want me to swap it in as your avatar?
-
Cheers Glenn thanks
-
I have an incomplete 144" wb 410" SBF with a PG trans, 5000 stall converter with a Chrysler 8 3/4" rear 4.10 gears with 33/12.5 tires. Still never fired as personal issues have stalled the progress so no times or HP ratings, compression etc to give out.
Older trickflow streetheat aluminum heads, ported and polished with a 302" tunnelram with an original 3 rib bugcatcher on it adapted to my 351w based block. Injection fed into adapter plates. Mahle pistons, Ohio crankshafts crank and H-beam rods. Howards roller cam. I have been collecting parts for this build for years so it may not be a budget build.
I just recently moved and exact specs are packed away.