Messages

1

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Strange Brake Question

« on: March 31, 2024, 11:32:32 AM »

Lynn - your 3362 master cylinder is rebuildable.  Strange sells kits, around $50.  Dragster brakes are different than a passenger car.  They are not going to last 75,000 miles plus.  Due to extreme pressure and the resulting heat from high speed stops, you do need to inspect your master cylinder and calipers if you experience brake issues.  The usual fix requires replacing o-rings and seals.

However, with the few number of runs that you and your driver have done the past year, and your description of the bent master cylinder pushrod, you may have a different issue with the master cylinder that is causing your problem.

Below information is from the Strange Brakes Website; maybe check your pushrod linkage alignment to see if your master cylinder has primary piston skirt damage.  Happy Easter!  Alan 


Primary Piston Inspection: The primary piston needs to be inspected. The piston skirts and faces highlighted in red should be carefully inspected. If the push rod linkages are misaligned and the pushrod is being engaged at an angle, the piston is forced to rub against the master cylinder bore surfaces. This will result in shiny spots or in extreme cases deformation of the skirt towards the front of the piston. If there is evident damage of the piston skirts the master cylinder bore should be inspected. Furthermore, the brake linkages should be corrected so they’re in line with the pushrod prior to master cylinder reinstallation.

Master cylinder bore inspection: It’s vital to inspect the master cylinder bores for wear, scoring and deposits. Discoloration or shiny spots in the bores are acceptable. Scoring should be felt by the finger. Generally, if the depth of a score catches the finger as it’s glided across, the master cylinder body is not acceptable. Scotch brite can be used to gently scuff out any minor scores. Scores will cause fluid to seep past the cup seals and inadequate to no brake pressure to develop. If the master cylinder body is found to be unacceptable, please contact Strange Engineering. After inspection the master cylinder bores and body should be cleaned with brake cleaner and dried prior to reassembly.

2

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Advice on a 1971 FED Frame

« on: December 27, 2023, 10:39:28 AM »

Since you are expecting to run faster than 9.99 seconds and/or over 135mph, yes, you should take it to the next nhra chassis cert day at your local track.  Remove the seat and body panels so the nhra inspector can easily see the driver's compartment area.  The inspection will focus on the roll cage and driver's area to determine if it meets current specs, and includes inspecting the welds.  The inspector will also do a sonic test to determine the thickness of the metal tubing to assure it meets current specs.  An nhra chassis cert is required every 3 years. 

With this information, you will be better able to make decisions on how to proceed.  If you are not familiar with race fabrication shops in your area, you could also ask the nhra inspector for any shop recommendations.  Take it to a few shops to gather some repair estimates for comparison.

3

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Advice on a 1971 FED Frame

« on: December 24, 2023, 03:02:07 PM »

JimmyD1333 - First things first, you need to know I like old race stuff, I like to look at old race stuff, and I like to see old race stuff preserved.  Your question to save this chassis or build new, and then; what would be safer and more cost-efficient?  Racing is dangerous, events can happen to an old restored vehicle just as easily with a new modern vehicle.     

Your Uncle taking his fed to a nhra chassis cert is the first advice probably all of us here would have recommended.  The question is did your Uncle do this back in 2008-2009 or recently.  If it was done recently, very good.  Now you know what it needs to cert to 7.50et.  Adding the extra bracing and repairing the crack (?) by the motor mount if done properly will assure the chassis passes nhra cert.  Obviously this would be the most cost-efficient route, as this chassis already has run and all the part are there and fit together for a complete running vehicle.  Properly replacing any failed tubing and adding bracing to a racing chassis is not that difficult for a competent shop. 

To build a new chassis and all that encompasses will take more time and money.  I'm guessing $10 to $20 thousand dollars depending on your parts selection and how much of the work you do yourself.

I think the NHRA Hot Rod Heritage Series did run at Tulsa.  I'm not sure they still run there, but is the NHRA Heritage Series Group 2 what you are interested in running?  You will have to do a lot of traveling to run that Nostaglia group.  If you are racing with a local group at Tulsa, that is a good way to start and have fun.  Also, you do not need to go 7.50et starting; running 9s at 150 in the quarter is plenty fun in a fed.  Alan

p.s. Merry Christmas to all!

4

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: direct drive

« on: November 15, 2023, 12:32:11 PM »

Lomiler - I received your message.  Correct, Denver area.  Alan

5

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: direct drive

« on: October 30, 2023, 01:10:21 PM »

For your early 1960s time frame ¼ mile, we assume a few things for direct drive.  Not modern drag slicks that circumference grows at higher rpms, so fixed 30 inch diameter slick.  IR injected fuel 394ci Olds full race prepped engine at max 6700 rpm at stripe.  Vehicle weight 1100 lbs.  Elevation 4600 feet.

My overly optimistic guess as follows for rear axle ratios (depends on your race engine build):

         MPH      GEAR RATIO   RPM
straight alky   125      4.29:1      6000
33% nitro      150      3.75:1      6300
75% nitro      175      3.42:1      6700

6

Drag Racing / Bandimere Speedway Closing October 22, 2023

« on: October 22, 2023, 10:18:51 AM »

Bandimere Speedway's last day today after 65 years.  The track is now open and they are doing Test and Tune only today.  If you pass tech, you can make a final pass down the strip.  I have a lot of good memories there, thank you to the Bandimere family.  Alan

7

Gassers / Re: 1949 Chevy Gasser Build

« on: August 18, 2023, 10:17:34 AM »

As shown in your video, lighting inside a building makes a huge difference, and selecting the lighting placement and correct color temperature very important in helping you make the area comfortable.  I can see your lighting has Kelvin (K) value of 5000 or above.  That just means it's like sunlight, bright daylight which is excellent for a work area.  A lower Kelvin value like 3000 is more of a warm light which you might use over a dining room table.  It would be softer, not so harsh bright white light.

You could light your shop with 3000K, but for doing tasks, 5000k is much better.  And...  I wish I could weld like that too!

8

Gassers / Re: 1949 Chevy Gasser Build

« on: August 16, 2023, 08:19:31 AM »

Glenn - enjoyed seeing your videos.  Nice roomy shop, the overhead lighting excellent.  Alan

9

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Looses oil pressure

« on: August 16, 2023, 08:06:38 AM »

Guido - you know what happens to your oil pressure when the car is moving to WOT.  Try it in the pits stationary and rpm up to 7800rpm and hold it there a few seconds to see if oil pressure drops off.  If it does, then you need to explore where the oil is sitting (i.e. valley or heads) and how to improve the restriction so it flows down faster to the oil pan. 

I'm guessing if it holds oil pressure constant at 7800rpm when stationary, then the issue is probably more related to your oil pan design.  Alan

10

Gassers / Re: 1949 Chevy Gasser Build

« on: August 11, 2023, 04:52:48 PM »

Glenn - Four doors sure unique, everyone will know who you are.  The sheet metal work and design of the rear door jamb and fender opening done excellent, looks to me better than Factory.  Automatic over a 4 speed, that's interesting; I ran both a 4 speed and a TH400 in my Camaro, the automatic worked real well and was faster with the TH400.  Alan

11

Roo Man's Room / Re: SFI chassis specs

« on: July 23, 2023, 08:41:46 AM »

Yes, I see that Number 2 Rear Hoop Center Brace.  See lll.1.f. and the Table to the right showing If Roll Cage Height 18 inches or less or exceeds 18 inches. 

The Table shows the same Specs for either 6 point Roll Cage Height.  I think I'm seeing 1. major axis x .049 or .857 minor axis x .049. 

Yes, you are not confused. That translates to an ellipse (oval) from my understanding as well, with 1.0 inch being the longer dimension of the ellipse and 0.857 inch being the shorter dimension of the ellipse.

If those are the dimension of the ellipse, right away I would think it would be too small for the top center brace you are questioning.  1 inch tubing in the helmet area of the roll cage is usually for the helmet bar. 

When Number 2 item mentions See lll.1.f. - what information is that?  Perhaps it will help answer the question if it shows a diagram.

12

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: ram tube length for more power

« on: July 22, 2023, 08:45:10 AM »

spookie - I'm thinking it's not such a simple question for individual runner stack injection.  It needs to have all the fuel injection parts correct based on your engine specs and fuel selection.  For example, a more important item is the size of the butterflies based on whether you are going to run gas, methanol, methanol and nitro, or just nitro.

As wideopen stated, the Jr. Fuel guys running IR stack injection run virtually no stacks, and their butterflies are probably 3 inch diameter or larger on a sbc style engine.  Compare that to a 327ci bracket racer with an early Hilborn running gas, their butterflies are easily half the size when it comes to flow.  The early Hilborn would slow the Jr. Fuel person down, and vice versa, the 3 inch diameter on the 327 running gas would slow it down as well no matter what length velocity tube was selected. 

For me, if my goal is to achieve the best hp/torque for my own engine spec, I'd start with the correct basics and add parts correctly from there (e.g. pump, barrel valve, filters, nozzles, lines, etc.).  Alan

13

Roo Man's Room / Re: SFI chassis specs

« on: July 22, 2023, 08:36:09 AM »

I checked the SFI website and the last revision shown for Spec. 2.6c was done in December 2021.  The only mention of Oval Tubing in that revision was related to the minimum acceptable wall thickness for mild steel round and oval tubing is 0.118 inches.

Per the SFI website, SFI reviews exiting specifications on a periodic basis to ensure the specs remain current to changing conditions.  SFI has in the past held their review meeting at the Performance Racing Industry Trade Show (PRI) usually held around the first week in December.  When it is closer to the meeting date, they will probably post a meeting agenda on their website of the topics and potential revisions to discuss.  You could check the agenda when posted in December to see any discussions related to Spec 2.6c.

Just click on the SFI website link posted above by Paul, go to the top menu line-item Tech & Safety to see the last Chassis Spec Tech Advisories and Updates currently listed.

 

14

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Driveshaft UJs

« on: May 21, 2023, 08:57:29 AM »

My dragster uses a coupler, so I'm not at all helpful selecting a manufacture of which 1350 U-joint to choose.  From what I've heard, for racing only, you do not want the greasable 1350 u-joint (weaker and more prone to failing), you want the solid U-joint which is what you are selecting. 

The only other comment is I know they have steel driveshafts, aluminum driveshafts, and carbon fiber which is the lightest, and most expensive.  Lighter is faster.  If you had a new driveshaft made, verify the U-joints are phased to each other correctly.

15

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What did you do on your Front Engine Dragster TODAY?

« on: May 18, 2023, 12:58:04 PM »

Lynn - marvelous plan if it works out, having private access to a race track for testing doesn't happen too often.  I've watched your fed build here, got my fingers crossed all goes smoothly for you.  For all of us here in Denver, our local track, Bandimere Speedway is closing down in October (five months away).  It opened in 1958 and John Bandimere Jr. made the Track's closing announcement last month April 21st.  If you have been racing at Bandimere Speedway for the past few years, you have seen the development advancing closer and closer with each passing year.  Bandimere Speedway in located on the west side of Denver near the Town of Morrison, and it is in a beautiful gorgeous setting, right at the foothills leading to the Rocky Mountains, elevation 5800 feet. 

I sure am going to miss Bandimere Speedway.  I raced there my first time on Memorial Day 1974.  It was their 1st High School Drag Race, there was maybe 20-25 of us at that first race.  From our High School, it was me with my Dad's 1967 Camaro RS/SS, and one of my best friends Todd with his Dad's 1969 GTO convertible.  And after all these years, both Todd and I still have our High School cars.  Over the years, their High School Drag Race grew and grew, and likewise, Bandimere Speedway grew and grew and got better and better each year with plenty of racing classes and events including an NHRA National Race to attract everyone.  Lots of fun times there.  Alan