FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: wideopen231 on September 09, 2018, 02:23:12 PM
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If car has SLE on it would have to be removed or just disconnected for running nostalgia event? I can remove air bottle and pull wiring in 30 seconds and add alink to it so totally non active in anyway.
Removing al together would take good amount more work and bracket or two added.
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I think it's per group.
Pro Nostalgia in Oregon requires it be out of the car 100%.
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If car has SLE on it would have to be removed or just disconnected for running nostalgia event? I can remove air bottle and pull wiring in 30 seconds and add alink to it so totally non active in anyway.
Removing al together would take good amount more work and bracket or two added.
On mine a rod the same length as the cylinder with a threaded hole in one end and a quick release cable end on the other worked.
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That's what i've done, but i have not had to remove it yet. I just keep it in the trailer "in case".
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Yea thought about threaded rod piece to lengthen cable.Lot less work that second bracket for cable clamp to move it back. With headache I have had getting sle setup to work as I want,its out except maybe some bracket stuff with pro tree. The one delay box that does not have adjustable sle just happened to be the one I bought. Everyone else don't care about WOT and 2 step with BV at full flow. Might not be problem ,but I don't like it. I want it to open between 2nd and 3rd light,rev up maybe tickle the 2 step and TB release. As they say it is what it is for while anyway.
Think I will just throw adapter rod in for initial testing just to remove chance of something going bad in SLE system.
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Don't use a threaded rod as they are usually made of soft steel and will bend under enough pressure. Use instead a harden steel rod and thread the ends.
If you have to use threaded rod, use stainless steel as the are a bit stronger. Just my advice.
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The easiest way to extend the cable is to use threaded hex aluminum stock. You can either use a male heim at the pedal (or throttle arm) end or a short length of threaded rod if you need to use a female connector. McMaster Carr has 10-32 threaded hex available up to 6" long in 1/2" increments. The 6" version run to $3.69.
If I am building a car for a new driver and think that he may have second thoughts on throttle pedal angle I mount the cable so that different length hex extensions can be used to adjust the angle.
Roo
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Don't use a threaded rod as they are usually made of soft steel and will bend under enough pressure. Use instead a harden steel rod and thread the ends.
If you have to use threaded rod, use stainless steel as the are a bit stronger. Just my advice.
Let me rephrase that. The threaded rod is actually a piece of ss tube thats threaded in side and ends screw into one end the other on cable, Not sure where I got it,been using same stuff for years and down to about 3 feet of it.
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What is SLE?
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starting line enhancer. Lets you floor it,while throttle remains shut and opens at a preset time after hitting button for trans brake.
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AKA Launch controller.
Mine is powered by my trans brake. I let go of the brake, and air fills the cylinder on the controller and slams the throttle open. When i'm on the brake it'll go about 5,000 on the converter (flashes to 6200)
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You can also adjust how hard it leaves with a needle valve on the inlet.
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Oh cool