Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - JrFuel Hayden

Pages: 1 ... 37 38 [39] 40
571
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Rear wheel width
« on: January 16, 2014, 10:20:56 AM »
I believe Parks runs bead-locks because their motor combo makes less torque than other J/F cars and in order to keep the tire speed up so it doesn't pull the motor down out of the RPM range it needs to be, they run as low as 4 1/2 lbs of tire pressure. So with that kind of low pressure you'd need bead-locks.
Now about your combo; what kind of HP are you making ?  With your 526 I assume you are using a 8" or 9" converter, I also assume your 526 makes more torque than our 400 ci SBC and early iron Hemi, [ I just picked-up our 354 block from the machine shop] , so that's why you plan on running a 14" tire. With your 3.90-4.10 gears what kind of RPM are you thinking of running thru the 1/4 ? I also assume your 6400 stall is close to the RPM the "cam" comes on. I've seen many a combo where the stall is too low and the motor struggles to go from stall to where the cam is designed to work.
We have also learned that stiffer chassis deliver better ET's unless you are running Big Show Top Fuel. You might want to call Parks about chassis combo's and they have someone that can covert you wheels to bead-locks, maybe for less $.

Jon Hansen, 805-444-4489

572
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Rear wheel width
« on: January 15, 2014, 08:57:17 PM »
Bill, for years we ran 12" tires on 10" rims, but as we started running below 7.20's I found we needed a 11" rim, mostly for the finals at Bakersfield when the sun went down and the track cooled off. Then as we made more power, we were using the 11"  D2585 combo more based on the tire speed I saw on the RacePak computer. So then I made-up a 12"/ D2585 combo for declining tracking conditions. The wider rims also were needed not only for the start-line, but also when the car would move around at half track. The wider rims kept our 60' times 1.01 - 1.04. The down side of wider rims is the tires will not grow as much, so the MPH is lower. As a matter-a-fact one of the Heritage J/F racers racing the lightest car [1355#] & running with the smallest motor [ 387ci ] doesn't like to run 12" rims because of the slower MPH, but then again he's running canard wings to try to get a hold of the track around the 1/8 running on his 11" rims. 
BTW we run 5 3/4 to 6 1/4 lbs of tire pressures, and launch at 6,000 to 6,400 rpm. I had Bogart widen our 10" rims to 12" because we don't use the 10" anymore, only the 11" or 12".
So, use your light 10" rims until you have traction issues, because racing a JrFuel type car, you need tire speed to keep the motor in the RPM it will work best. Case-in-point if your 60' are above 1.15, use the narrower rims and raise the launch rpm, and maybe lower your tire pressure to increase your tire speed. As you lower your tire pressure the tire will concave in the center and run more on the edges. To confirm that check your tire temps right after your run, going across the tire tread with your temp gun, you can see the temps are higher on the edges. I always check the tire temps when I pick-up the race car after a run. I also check engine temps just before final staging and after the run, so I get an idea what to change for the next run.
I can see Bruce has good results with his blown alky SBC on 10" rims using 33" tall tires [ I think] because he's making different power at different points in the track than our injected alky 400 ci SBC's.
Glenn's point about asking GoodYear what rim to use, is a good idea, but for the D2585's their chart says 12" rim, and they are conservative suggesting wider rims for more traction. GoodYear has told me "use rims only 1" on each side of the tire size", ie 12" tire use no less than 11", and no more than 13". Racers still have to decide what combos work best for them.
Feel free to call me with any questions, 805-444-4489
Good Luck racing,
Jon 

573
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Front Rims
« on: January 13, 2014, 10:54:27 AM »
Well, GraPro, it depends on your application, if you're looking for wheels for the car in your profile picture, or a FED that would be different  wheels & tires. As far as chrome vs alum rims, I would recommend  alum because of where you live, the chrome will rust in time, especially if you are not on top of taking care of them.
Now you asked about rims, do you mean wheels ? Because if you are looking for parts, we can sell you all the parts you need, too.
If you are looking for Dragster wheels, we have some close-out 17" wheels, and even more close-out 18" wheels for Anglia spindles,
and we have "T" bucket wheels we can build to fit early Ford spindles, and tires.
Feel free to call, so we can figure what will work best for you, 800-624-3803, or 805-444-4489, cell.
 
And Thanks Recardo for the recommendation.
Jon
 

574
Roo Man's Room / Re: Steering turns issue
« on: January 05, 2014, 09:07:29 PM »
Sounds like your pitman arm needs to be re-aligned.  Take the arm off the steering box shaft,  find the center of your steering wheel/ box by turning it all the way to the left, then all the way to the right, then turn steering wheel to the center of both.  Re-install pit arm, and then adjust draglink  so the front wheels turn equal left and right. Make sure the front wheels are not hitting any part of the racecar.
That should straiten you out.   

Good Luck

575
Bill, So how much battery do you need for your MSD dist ?
       And you are right we run MSD magnetos in all the west coast JrFuelers, mostly because of the 15-17;1 compression we need to run alky.

576
Bill, 15 lb battery?
       How about a ONE pound 15 amp Lithium battery, I can get you for $140, retail $169.95.
      Call me if I can help, 805-444-4489
       Jon 

577
Bill, since you are looking to put your car on a diet, have you looked at your battery combo; ie do you have a 16 or 24 volt battery on the car to start and run your transbrake, computer, rear light ? If so, you can save more weight by changing you battery combo than lighter axles. The biggest savings would be if you carry 16-24 volt batteries to start your car. You could change to a remote battery pack for starting. However if you want an on board battery because you worry about the motor dying on the burn-out or you have limited crew, you could install  lighter battery in the front of your car and remove equal amount of ballast. If you already use a remote battery pack for starting but still have a battery on board to run the rest of your electronics [ ie transbrake, RPM / RacePak] any battery that weighs more than one pound, you can save that weight also. Start by weighing your batteries to see what you can save. We saved 6 lbs by switching to a light lith battery [ one lb] to run our transbrake, and RacePak]  We also switched to two 12 volt 500 cc amp batts that weigh under 9 lbs, to start the high compression motor.
And/ Or you could spend $1000-$2000 to take 30-40 lbs off your iron block.
Also take a real good look at your racecar looking at every bracket, mount, nut and bolt, puke tank and hoses, rear wheels, size/ weight of your chute, wheelie bar to see what you can remove or modify to remove weight you don't need.
Good luck finding parts to remove, remember, it all adds up, lots of 1/2 lb reductions adds up to your 150 lb weight reduction goal.
Jon , 805-444-4489

578
Wanted to buy / Re: 16'' front tires?
« on: December 30, 2013, 11:01:45 AM »
If you want to lace & true yourself, I have the spokes, nipples , rims, and 17" tires.

Jon, 805-444-4489

579
Wanted to buy / Re: 16'' front tires?
« on: December 30, 2013, 03:14:00 AM »
I just checked, there are some 2.25x16 tires on Ebay,
Good Luck with your project,
Jon

580
Wanted to buy / Re: 16'' front tires?
« on: December 29, 2013, 11:57:40 PM »
The 2.25x16 Cheng Shin rib tires are no longer available. Cheng Shin stopped importing D.O.T. tires about 10 years ago.
You might find some old 2.25x16 uni tread Cheng Shin on Ebay. Which will be at least 10-15 years old, and might be too light of a tire if the weight across your front axle is over 350 lbs.  There are a couple of 3.00x16 tires available, [$60 to $100 ea] but if you plan on running your slingshot for awhile, you may want to convert your wheels to 17" so you can get replacement tires.

Feel free to call me with any questions, 805-444-4489

581
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: The latest car out of my shop
« on: December 23, 2013, 06:10:08 PM »
Ah, another wrap-a-round body, Nice.
And about the 60's styles, check-out my crew uniforms, too bad I don't have any pictures in color.

Parisey/ Hansen Racing

582
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: The latest car out of my shop
« on: December 22, 2013, 07:11:28 PM »
Roo, I like the car you built, good motor location, nice front end, great full body, and I really like the wrap-a-round back body. It reminds me of my wrap-a-round body on my real nitro JrFueler that I owned/ drove from 64-69 and raced mostly at Great Lakes Dragway in Union Grove Wisc, just up the road a piece from you.

583
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Hi from a British newbie.
« on: December 13, 2013, 03:51:44 AM »
Yes, they will mount on your 2.15x17 rims, but 2.15" [ inside bead-to-bead] is way more than you need, and of course they will be heavier, but they will mount and bead-up just fine. You will lose some tire height, but not a big deal.
So keep-in-mind one pound of rotating weight is equal to 9-10 lbs of static weight, and the more rotating weight you are trying to move the more HP you will use/ need. Old school thought is 100 lbs = .10 of a second.

Jon

584
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Hi from a British newbie.
« on: December 13, 2013, 01:40:24 AM »
The most common 17" wire wheels are 1.4" bead to bead [ well], and some are 1.2", 1.6", 1.85".
The Front runners will not bead-up on the 1.2", and are difficult to bead-up on the 1.4" matter-a-fact most race tyre guys will not try to mount front runners on wire wheels.  I have found I can mount them on 1.4" rim with some mods.
I have not needed to mount front runners on anything wider than 1.85" wide rims.
The issue is getting the tyre to completely bead all the way onto the rim. If you just pinch the beads of the tyre to 1.4" you will see there is not much "elbow room" for the inner tube to press the beads all the way onto the rim.
An option is use a 1.6 or 1.85 rims, however those wide rim are no longer made. Hayden Wheels does have some Akront and Borrani 1.6 and 1.85" wide 17" rims in stock.

Feel free to Email me with any questions, jchansen60@gmail.com
Jon

585
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: tire care
« on: October 28, 2013, 02:20:45 PM »
George, How did the Hoosier JrFuel tires work ?

Jon, Hayden Wheels

Pages: 1 ... 37 38 [39] 40