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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: 145" Slingshot build in the UK
« on: April 25, 2016, 11:27:28 PM »
Thanks for the update Ponti 
Whats missing to start assembling it?
Whats missing to start assembling it?
FEDs Forever!
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: 145" Slingshot build in the UK
« on: April 18, 2016, 03:22:07 AM »
We need updated pics 
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: FED to Norway
« on: February 02, 2016, 03:30:07 AM »Awesome thread here, great looking car and tremendous desire by the owner to get it all together and to the track. Love the videos, motor sounds killer. As far as your history goes, here's my addition. Early photos, no way it was a Canadian record holder in the 50's. that style of chassis is probably 67 or 68 build. Definitely Eastern Canada car as pics are at Sanair ( Quebec Cda) and drivers name would appear to be French Canadian. It would have competed in NHRA division 1 in Comp eliminator probably in the C/D class. Real cool car you got there man, keep at it and please more video. Your local track looks very nice and sure has some teeth. Cheers
Hi Steve, think you got something wrong somewhere, or i have typed in some strange things..haha.
But it was sure not a 50`s record holder, but i think i wrote somewhere that i spoke to some Canadian guy wich had been racing in the 50`s with some records and that he was helping me out or something...
I know my car is built somewhere in the late 60`s. I was able to track down history to the late 70`s, but it stopped there.
I have some information that might be useful to the correct person, but i need to find some oldtimers from around Montreal that would remember the car - no luck so far.
Thanks for the kind words
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: FED to Norway
« on: January 15, 2016, 04:44:30 AM »
Maybe time for a little update...
Think maybe i posted some in other places in the forum but anyway
My trailer project went to h**l, not because it didnt work, but because of the "officals", to much forwards and back, so i sold it to a guy that was more motivated..haha.
So, i bought this:
Old Mercedes 508 wich have been a military vehicle, barely used, and stored inside for the most of its life. These machines are known to go for ever, and they are very popular to convert into campers for long trips around the world.Well, thats not my plan with it. I hope to find a way to tuck my FED in there somehow - and be able to have a couple of "removable" beds and some storage for tools etc. Its cargo space is just a little bit too short to get the doors closed, but i have a plan for a small extension back there...or, Im actually thinking about shorten my dragster chassis too... i like the way it handles on the strip, but there are several practical reasons for wanting a shorter chassis. I have been in several situations last summer that i had to handle the car all by myself, and i find it hard to move it around etc becuase of the length. My garage is also on the short side...it fits, but just about.
Dont remember exactly how many passes i got, but i think 16 or 17. Best run ended with a 9.08 @ 1/4mile - it went faster and faster every time. Learned A LOT. And i have lots more to learn, and few tuning tips to apply.
Had plans for another event, but found some glitter in the oil, so the engine was taken apart. Just needed to polish the crank, and change to new bearings.
Here is one of the best runs.
After the season ended, i was invited to Norways largest Car show, and i had FED on display there over the weekend.
Spring is closing in, so i better get back to work soon
Think maybe i posted some in other places in the forum but anyway
My trailer project went to h**l, not because it didnt work, but because of the "officals", to much forwards and back, so i sold it to a guy that was more motivated..haha.
So, i bought this:
Old Mercedes 508 wich have been a military vehicle, barely used, and stored inside for the most of its life. These machines are known to go for ever, and they are very popular to convert into campers for long trips around the world.Well, thats not my plan with it. I hope to find a way to tuck my FED in there somehow - and be able to have a couple of "removable" beds and some storage for tools etc. Its cargo space is just a little bit too short to get the doors closed, but i have a plan for a small extension back there...or, Im actually thinking about shorten my dragster chassis too... i like the way it handles on the strip, but there are several practical reasons for wanting a shorter chassis. I have been in several situations last summer that i had to handle the car all by myself, and i find it hard to move it around etc becuase of the length. My garage is also on the short side...it fits, but just about.
Dont remember exactly how many passes i got, but i think 16 or 17. Best run ended with a 9.08 @ 1/4mile - it went faster and faster every time. Learned A LOT. And i have lots more to learn, and few tuning tips to apply.
Had plans for another event, but found some glitter in the oil, so the engine was taken apart. Just needed to polish the crank, and change to new bearings.
Here is one of the best runs.
After the season ended, i was invited to Norways largest Car show, and i had FED on display there over the weekend.
Spring is closing in, so i better get back to work soon
5
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / SBC bearings
« on: October 08, 2015, 12:52:00 PM »
Im going to buy new rod and main bearings, but seems like the bearings i have now is out of production.
They are Clevite CB663H and MB2509H
What bearings do you recomend? Std size. Sbc alky
They are Clevite CB663H and MB2509H
What bearings do you recomend? Std size. Sbc alky
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: From SBC to BBC -- some questions
« on: September 30, 2015, 07:17:16 AM »
Thanks guys, you have answered my questions. I'll check out Davids alternative
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / From SBC to BBC -- some questions
« on: September 29, 2015, 11:08:46 PM »
I need more power 
I have the option to get a complete BBC, ex Pro Stock engine, complete, with Sonny Bryant crank, EPD heads, starter, carbs, converter etc...for a good price. It needs some work; one new piston, a new valve and a little cleaning and rebuild. Today it is setup with two 4-port carbs, but thats not what i want. So, how do i know if i can use/rebuild this engine with a classic Hilborn, Enderle or Crower stack injection, magneto, dry block etc..? Is it the deck hight that is the critical part?
Or should i look around for something else?
I have the option to get a complete BBC, ex Pro Stock engine, complete, with Sonny Bryant crank, EPD heads, starter, carbs, converter etc...for a good price. It needs some work; one new piston, a new valve and a little cleaning and rebuild. Today it is setup with two 4-port carbs, but thats not what i want. So, how do i know if i can use/rebuild this engine with a classic Hilborn, Enderle or Crower stack injection, magneto, dry block etc..? Is it the deck hight that is the critical part?
Or should i look around for something else?
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Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: 145" Slingshot build in the UK
« on: September 25, 2015, 05:08:29 AM »
Looks great! Does the drawing says 15,6 ft total length?
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Roo Man's Room / Chassis/paint
« on: September 24, 2015, 11:52:00 PM »
Im considering to tear down my chassis to give it a new paint this winter. Chassis is chr.moly. How should i remove the old paint? Someone once said i should not mediablast chr.moly tubing, is that correct?
Or should i just sand it down ligthly and paint over the old paint?
Or should i just sand it down ligthly and paint over the old paint?
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Time for a rebuild?
« on: August 27, 2015, 09:21:39 AM »
They are running blown alky, but as far as i could understand they ran injected alky in earlier years.
I will take the advice of changing one plug for each run, smart way to keep track on things and as you said, i will always have "new" plugs.
The worst part now is that my racing season is over as i have already pulled the engine out, and i will do a complete teardown and rebuild. Last race here in Norway is just 1.5 week away, so im not going to make it. I have learned so many things now that i would like to try out, but i have to wait for the spring to come.
Well... at the next race my 12year old daughter is going to get here license for alky junior dragster, and that might take some of my time anyway.
I only have a stock 350 block, but forged crank and pistons, Brodix heads ... with my so far bad 60 foots at 1.300 (best so far), i really think i can push it way more when i get the correct tune in it.
I will take the advice of changing one plug for each run, smart way to keep track on things and as you said, i will always have "new" plugs.
The worst part now is that my racing season is over as i have already pulled the engine out, and i will do a complete teardown and rebuild. Last race here in Norway is just 1.5 week away, so im not going to make it. I have learned so many things now that i would like to try out, but i have to wait for the spring to come.
Well... at the next race my 12year old daughter is going to get here license for alky junior dragster, and that might take some of my time anyway.
I only have a stock 350 block, but forged crank and pistons, Brodix heads ... with my so far bad 60 foots at 1.300 (best so far), i really think i can push it way more when i get the correct tune in it.
You are welcome Gass, it is a bit disappointing when I give, asked for advice, and they don't take my advice.
Is your alcohol dragster buddy racing NHRA Top Alcohol racing blown alky or injected nitro ? Blown alky is a different game. i agree with his advice to put one new plug in your motor with any tune-up change, matter-a-fact I suggest a new plug every round. As an example, Q-1 could be early in the morning, at 1200 DA, and Q-2 could be around noon, which could have a density altitude of 3000', well your tune-up just changed because you will have less good air going in your motor, it just got fatter. So I suggest in Q-1 new plug in #1 cylinder , Q-2 new plug # 2, etc, that way it's a little easier to keep track where your new plugs are, plus after 8 runs [ ya I know that might be more than 2 events] you will have a new set of plugs in your motor with only a few runs. At $3.00 each it's not allot of money.
When I 1'st started helping my partner, Bud Hammer he was indexing plugs also, but that goal was to keep the high piston dome [ 16;1] from smashing the plug ground strap closed. When I was doing that I kept trying different plugs until the strap was between 10;00 and 2;00, without using plug washers, I think the washers changes the heat range. But when I built my 1'st RR SBC we cut with a porting tool a "fire slot" in the dome, with the idea it would help the flame front go over the dome, but also not have to index the plugs. I always try to keep our car simple, less likely to have a crew member put the wrong plug in the wrong hole. Also when I ran my motor in a Comp elim [ B/ND] and he had help from the Autolite rep, I asked him now that I cut the fire slot, would it be any advantage to index the plugs 180° from what I was doing, he said Autolite tried that and the dyno test didn't show any difference.
You are right it costs more to go fast , "speed cost money, how fast do you want to go ?" But I know allot of SBC injected alky racers running 8.60's,[NE-2] and 7.60's [NE-1] with bowtie blocks, OEM forged cranks, off the shelf pistons, shifting at no higher than 8500.
Your Vertex is fine until you up your combustion pressure with higher compression and higher fuel flow, and even then you can have Spud hop-up your Vertex, or go to a Mallory Mag. I run 20 amp MSD, because i run around 16;1 compression, 220-230 fuel flow and 10,000 rpm. Your 38° timing looks about right for a non-raised runner heads, but I have helped some JrFuel cars at the Bowling Green Reunion when they had a ton of water grains in the air, you can't burn water, so we kept leaning the fuel and upping the timing to as high as 42° to try to get some heat in the plugs. He would have won, except he red-lighted.
Jon
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Time for a rebuild?
« on: August 26, 2015, 12:19:22 AM »
Again, thanks a lot for your input Jon. This is great information for a rookie like me!!
I learned a bit about reading plugs from a very experienced guy on my second weekend out. He and is son is running a Alcohol dragster (wich i believe has had the european record for several years).
He told me the exact same thing as you, that NGK`s are easier to read (i had Autolite). They also indexed the plugs so that the gap pointed towards the exhaust valve on all plugs, that way they got more correct reading for comparing each plug. He also told me if i did changes to the pills, change at least one plug to get a new reading. He also teached me a little bit on fuel.
They lean until they get burned on the first or second thread, but as he said: do you want to go fast or go safe - fast can be expensive! (The next day they got a window in their block.. but he said no big deal).
Im running 38 of timing (Vertex mag), and it seems to be working good.
Waiting for my engine stand to get back from a friend before i remove crank and rods for inspection. Crossing my fingers all is good.
I am absolutely sure i would have been into the 8`s at the next race with everything i have learned since last time. Higher idle and perfect temp on engine sounds like the little extra i need to get there!
THIS IS FUN!
Thanks again!
I learned a bit about reading plugs from a very experienced guy on my second weekend out. He and is son is running a Alcohol dragster (wich i believe has had the european record for several years).
He told me the exact same thing as you, that NGK`s are easier to read (i had Autolite). They also indexed the plugs so that the gap pointed towards the exhaust valve on all plugs, that way they got more correct reading for comparing each plug. He also told me if i did changes to the pills, change at least one plug to get a new reading. He also teached me a little bit on fuel.
They lean until they get burned on the first or second thread, but as he said: do you want to go fast or go safe - fast can be expensive! (The next day they got a window in their block.. but he said no big deal).
Im running 38 of timing (Vertex mag), and it seems to be working good.
Waiting for my engine stand to get back from a friend before i remove crank and rods for inspection. Crossing my fingers all is good.
I am absolutely sure i would have been into the 8`s at the next race with everything i have learned since last time. Higher idle and perfect temp on engine sounds like the little extra i need to get there!
THIS IS FUN!
Thanks again!
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Time for a rebuild?
« on: August 25, 2015, 01:18:09 AM »
Yes Jon, thanks a lot. (and to you other guys too).
I know i have been running way too rich, on purpose, because i was told it would be the safest to start with. However i have leaned it a couple of times on the main pill, and the oil looked much better on the last oilchange (except from the glitter). Its not clear, but looks more like oil than milk. I started with a .060 main, and ended up with .075 before i decided to not run the engine anymore.
Do you use a tempgun to measure correct temp, or do you have sensors connected to the Racepak so you can watch correct temp? Where do you measure temp...heads, block?
Funny how things changes, but i started this season with a clear vision of not using ANY kind of "wired" help, everything has/had to be mechanical. But im not satisfied with a 9.0 @ 1/4mile, and i see the need for a certain amount of infomation from the engine for tuning and for it to last longer.
I know i have been running way too rich, on purpose, because i was told it would be the safest to start with. However i have leaned it a couple of times on the main pill, and the oil looked much better on the last oilchange (except from the glitter). Its not clear, but looks more like oil than milk. I started with a .060 main, and ended up with .075 before i decided to not run the engine anymore.
Do you use a tempgun to measure correct temp, or do you have sensors connected to the Racepak so you can watch correct temp? Where do you measure temp...heads, block?
Funny how things changes, but i started this season with a clear vision of not using ANY kind of "wired" help, everything has/had to be mechanical. But im not satisfied with a 9.0 @ 1/4mile, and i see the need for a certain amount of infomation from the engine for tuning and for it to last longer.
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Time for a rebuild?
« on: August 24, 2015, 02:14:10 AM »
Thanks guys! Seems like i have a few issues to fix then. Oil accumulator seems to be a good thing, and also better oil. What grade oil to use?
What oilfilter do you recomend?
For those of you that use an oil heater - do you also heat oil between runs to get rid of the alky? I talked to a guy at one of the local races, and he used the same oil for the whole weekend as he heated the oil all the time to get rid of methanol.
Myself, i have changed all oil every 2 runs....but that is expensive.., and time consuming when there is tight racing.
I havent split the entire engine yet, but i have removed the heads, and a couple of the cylinders have been beaten. Not sure how bad i should categorize it, so i must ask my engine guy to check. I can feel the grooves with my fingernails.
What oilfilter do you recomend?
For those of you that use an oil heater - do you also heat oil between runs to get rid of the alky? I talked to a guy at one of the local races, and he used the same oil for the whole weekend as he heated the oil all the time to get rid of methanol.
Myself, i have changed all oil every 2 runs....but that is expensive.., and time consuming when there is tight racing.
I havent split the entire engine yet, but i have removed the heads, and a couple of the cylinders have been beaten. Not sure how bad i should categorize it, so i must ask my engine guy to check. I can feel the grooves with my fingernails.
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Time for a rebuild?
« on: August 20, 2015, 09:25:45 PM »
I have 16 runs on it now, and the "glitter" appeared on the last two runs. No traces of it in the oil before that.
Could be thrust bearing also, i'll check everything.
Some of the parts needs to be replaced anyway, like the stud girdle - wich was (sorry) a piece of crap. Going to upgrade to a complete Jesel rocker arm assembly.
I have a best run of 5.7 so far...with very little experience, no transbrake and probably too big rear tires
Closing in...
Could be thrust bearing also, i'll check everything.
Some of the parts needs to be replaced anyway, like the stud girdle - wich was (sorry) a piece of crap. Going to upgrade to a complete Jesel rocker arm assembly.
I have a best run of 5.7 so far...with very little experience, no transbrake and probably too big rear tires
Closing in...
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: First 1/4 mile runs
« on: August 20, 2015, 04:39:37 AM »Another good reason to raise the idle is if you do use the trans brake it will help to make sure its applied fully before you release the hand brake. If you drive up to the line and back use second gear around the pits. It will counteract some of the high idle.
Thanks, good to know