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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 07, 2014, 05:58:40 PM »
Shaving cram huh? what a neat idea, I will try that.
FEDs Forever!
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92
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 07, 2014, 09:39:30 AM »
Just to follow up since I know everyone is worried about how this turns out....
Motor is going to be torn down to bare block and goes to the machine shop.
Will use a timesert and a combination of grease on a bit, proper jig, then cleaning out the passage, for just a few bucks more than what I would spend on the timesert kit.
That way if we find more holes that need repair the cost only goes up a little.
And I will sleep better.
Motor is going to be torn down to bare block and goes to the machine shop.
Will use a timesert and a combination of grease on a bit, proper jig, then cleaning out the passage, for just a few bucks more than what I would spend on the timesert kit.
That way if we find more holes that need repair the cost only goes up a little.
And I will sleep better.
93
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 05, 2014, 10:21:52 AM »
If I drill it myself, yes I think I can find a spare or at least use an aluminum sleeve in the one on it.
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 04, 2014, 07:16:43 PM »
Luke, thanks... I came here to bounce ideas and think outloud with some feedback. If I was sure it was only one I would be fine with the heli coil and a good cleaning of the bare block. (no it was not new to me) but since I am worried about there being others putting it in a mill and being able to drill square and in line to do several is the best solution. Won't know if others are bad till I blow it apart anyway, so might as well. Sad part is there is a Bridgeport and a knock off copy sitting a few feet from this motor and neither are set up and ready to run. (they belong to the other brother)
Several of the head bolts have heli coils done by me from the last build, and all of the intakes have heli coils, but none of those torque to 110lbs. I believe the time serts or other none wound inserts may be a touch better (I could be wrong, I have been wrong before, even today) this hole also only has about a half inch of threads because of the oil passage at the bottom. I believe I knew the answer when I started, just needed convincing. Will find out tomorrow if one of the local machine shops can get to it anytime soon. If not I will run up next weekend and get dirty.
Not to prolong the drama, but just to complicate things, I am in San Antonio TX. The motor is in OKC. My brother blew up the motor in his boat and I am letting him use mine since I bent my chassis and am out till I decide what I want to be when I grow up. I trust him to take it apart and take the block to the machinist, but I want to be the one that screws it back together. If it blows up in his boat after I put it together I am ok. If if blows up after he puts it together I may not be so forgiving.
Several of the head bolts have heli coils done by me from the last build, and all of the intakes have heli coils, but none of those torque to 110lbs. I believe the time serts or other none wound inserts may be a touch better (I could be wrong, I have been wrong before, even today) this hole also only has about a half inch of threads because of the oil passage at the bottom. I believe I knew the answer when I started, just needed convincing. Will find out tomorrow if one of the local machine shops can get to it anytime soon. If not I will run up next weekend and get dirty.
Not to prolong the drama, but just to complicate things, I am in San Antonio TX. The motor is in OKC. My brother blew up the motor in his boat and I am letting him use mine since I bent my chassis and am out till I decide what I want to be when I grow up. I trust him to take it apart and take the block to the machinist, but I want to be the one that screws it back together. If it blows up in his boat after I put it together I am ok. If if blows up after he puts it together I may not be so forgiving.
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 04, 2014, 06:53:49 PM »
Delay would be if I disassembled it and waited on machine shop. This was the motor in the car in my avitar, but planned to power a flat bottom drag boat 8hrs away. Still alot to do besides just the motor so 3 weeks is pushing it.
I am leaning toward pull it apart, buy the time sert kit and try it myself. With some soapy water and bottle brush clean it all up then re assemble. It is in my brothers shop and not the cleanest environment.
The bottom of the bolt hole is where the oil passage to the crank intersects with the passage running the length of the block. Not sure grease is an option as it will just push into the passages, really no place to screw around with crumbly little bits of cast iron.
I am afraid this is not the only hole that will need repair, and that is why I would want to get a machinist involved.
Thanks for all the input guys.
I am leaning toward pull it apart, buy the time sert kit and try it myself. With some soapy water and bottle brush clean it all up then re assemble. It is in my brothers shop and not the cleanest environment.
The bottom of the bolt hole is where the oil passage to the crank intersects with the passage running the length of the block. Not sure grease is an option as it will just push into the passages, really no place to screw around with crumbly little bits of cast iron.
I am afraid this is not the only hole that will need repair, and that is why I would want to get a machinist involved.
Thanks for all the input guys.
96
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 04, 2014, 06:18:33 PM »
4 bolt factory, not splayed.
I know the correct answer is to strip it, take it to the machine shop and have it and any of the questionable ones redone with good time sert or other aircraft quality fastener and then flush out the block and not use helicoils. But we have a race the end of May that we would like to make and if we do this there is no way we will make it. Other side says do not risk catching garbage and screwing up a really nice high dollar crank, rods, etc.
Can it be done by hand with the block upside down and the oil passage blocked off somehow and the motor still assembled?
this block has had several of the head bolts helicoiled so I am loosing faith in the integrity of the other threads.
I know the correct answer is to strip it, take it to the machine shop and have it and any of the questionable ones redone with good time sert or other aircraft quality fastener and then flush out the block and not use helicoils. But we have a race the end of May that we would like to make and if we do this there is no way we will make it. Other side says do not risk catching garbage and screwing up a really nice high dollar crank, rods, etc.
Can it be done by hand with the block upside down and the oil passage blocked off somehow and the motor still assembled?
this block has had several of the head bolts helicoiled so I am loosing faith in the integrity of the other threads.
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Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Pulled threads on #3 main
« on: May 04, 2014, 12:50:27 PM »
Looking for some guidance from those that have experience with this.
Putting new bearings in a cast iron block BBC. Has ARP studs and when I went to torque #3 main one of the outer studs pulled the threads out. Looks like some of them were already rusty and on their way out. Thought I would helicoil it till I realized that one went into an oil passage and I did not trust myself to get all the little crunchy parts out if I drilled and tapped it. I have not disassembled the motor yet. Thought about stuffing a piece of hose thru the outer galley plug and making sure not to drill into it, but wonder how many other threads are about to go.
Will a heli coil hold or do I go with a timesert or one of the better pieces?
Pull the whole thing apart and take it to a machine shop and have them check all the holes? One of the inner holes thread did not look so hot either.
This is on a blown 496.
Putting new bearings in a cast iron block BBC. Has ARP studs and when I went to torque #3 main one of the outer studs pulled the threads out. Looks like some of them were already rusty and on their way out. Thought I would helicoil it till I realized that one went into an oil passage and I did not trust myself to get all the little crunchy parts out if I drilled and tapped it. I have not disassembled the motor yet. Thought about stuffing a piece of hose thru the outer galley plug and making sure not to drill into it, but wonder how many other threads are about to go.
Will a heli coil hold or do I go with a timesert or one of the better pieces?
Pull the whole thing apart and take it to a machine shop and have them check all the holes? One of the inner holes thread did not look so hot either.
This is on a blown 496.
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: First passes with a clutch
« on: April 29, 2014, 08:47:27 AM »
Thanks for the info, why a 3 speed?
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: First passes with a clutch
« on: April 28, 2014, 06:22:36 PM »
Very cool, tell us more about the set up. What clutch are you using?
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Front Engine Dragsters / Re: fed bodys
« on: April 28, 2014, 06:18:38 PM »
I have no pics from my build, but I decided that I could do it on my own.
Had some .050 mill finish aluminum and did some research on how the old guys did it. Some of the old masters had nothing more than a few mallets and a telephone pole and an oxygen/acetylene tank to bend it over and a torch to anneal it. I picked up a baseball bat, cut it int 3 pieces and some 1" dowel for handles and made my own mallets. I bought a leather purse at the second hand store and filled it up with sand. I splurged on a sonotube (heavy cardboard tube used to pour concrete piers) that I used to bend the material and form the radius I wanted for the cowl sides. Some tape, markers, and poster board. You will also need the tool to make dzus divots.
I have no talent and was unemployed at the time so I had more time than money. In my opinion the older style bodies that had more complex gentile curves are not only better looking, but easier to make than the new "drain pipe" style that are built with a break. One side panel needed a blister to clear the starter so I took a piece of 2x6 and routed out the negative shape I wanted and hammered the aluminum into it to create the blister. I never painted this car, instead I hit it with a scotchbrite pad and some WD-40. It has a short windscreen that was made with the same materials and finished with a kratex in a drill press.
You can do this, and if you can't you might only be out $125 for a 4x8 sheet of aluminum. Might go with .040 instead if you are worried about the weight.
Be sure and take some pictures please.
Had some .050 mill finish aluminum and did some research on how the old guys did it. Some of the old masters had nothing more than a few mallets and a telephone pole and an oxygen/acetylene tank to bend it over and a torch to anneal it. I picked up a baseball bat, cut it int 3 pieces and some 1" dowel for handles and made my own mallets. I bought a leather purse at the second hand store and filled it up with sand. I splurged on a sonotube (heavy cardboard tube used to pour concrete piers) that I used to bend the material and form the radius I wanted for the cowl sides. Some tape, markers, and poster board. You will also need the tool to make dzus divots.
I have no talent and was unemployed at the time so I had more time than money. In my opinion the older style bodies that had more complex gentile curves are not only better looking, but easier to make than the new "drain pipe" style that are built with a break. One side panel needed a blister to clear the starter so I took a piece of 2x6 and routed out the negative shape I wanted and hammered the aluminum into it to create the blister. I never painted this car, instead I hit it with a scotchbrite pad and some WD-40. It has a short windscreen that was made with the same materials and finished with a kratex in a drill press.
You can do this, and if you can't you might only be out $125 for a 4x8 sheet of aluminum. Might go with .040 instead if you are worried about the weight.
Be sure and take some pictures please.
101
Wanted to buy / Re: WTB cast "Burn Down" Breathers
« on: April 15, 2014, 03:57:27 PM »
George, they may be available someplace else but these are the only ones I have ever found for sale outside of swap meets.
http://www.rbssuperchargers.com/Products.cfm?pn=2600-0001&pID=6540
http://www.rbssuperchargers.com/Products.cfm?pn=2600-0001&pID=6540
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Spud Miller's Cave / Re: stack injection question
« on: April 01, 2014, 07:19:42 AM »
I had hoped someone smarter than me would jump in and offer advice. But since they did not, here is some free advice learned from experience.
Send your system to Spud and have it flowed and have him set it up for you. Too many variables like, is the pump fresh? is everything else tight and new? What spool in the BV?
I used some common formulas on my first stack and it would run, but was not optimized. Had a well known JR fuel guy flow it and made some recommendations.
It was like night and day. So much better and more responsive. When I built my first blower motor with a hat I did not even try. I just filled out all the info Spud needed and he sent me a set up that was spot on. Now I can also change my tune up for altitude and weather based on his readings.
Send your system to Spud and have it flowed and have him set it up for you. Too many variables like, is the pump fresh? is everything else tight and new? What spool in the BV?
I used some common formulas on my first stack and it would run, but was not optimized. Had a well known JR fuel guy flow it and made some recommendations.
It was like night and day. So much better and more responsive. When I built my first blower motor with a hat I did not even try. I just filled out all the info Spud needed and he sent me a set up that was spot on. Now I can also change my tune up for altitude and weather based on his readings.
103
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Compression ratio
« on: March 31, 2014, 07:59:58 AM »
While I was not playing with nitro, I was very surprised how much changing the cam on my alky motor made the engine feel more compression.
I had a 10:1 flat top piston motor that had run on gas and put a stack injector on it running alcohol. I had a cam built with little overlap so the motor would "see" more compression. Makes sense that you can build one to "see" less also.
If you increase the overlap is there any detrimental affect on the valves?
I had a 10:1 flat top piston motor that had run on gas and put a stack injector on it running alcohol. I had a cam built with little overlap so the motor would "see" more compression. Makes sense that you can build one to "see" less also.
If you increase the overlap is there any detrimental affect on the valves?
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Events / San Antonio Nitro Jam
« on: March 14, 2014, 07:39:09 AM »
Just a reminder for the folks around San Antonio.
March 28,29 IHRA Nitro Jam. Not sure if there will be much Nostalgia activity, but there will be Nitro in the air.
March 28,29 IHRA Nitro Jam. Not sure if there will be much Nostalgia activity, but there will be Nitro in the air.
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Front Engine Dragsters / March Meet coverage
« on: March 09, 2014, 10:18:39 AM »
Not sure if anyone has posted, so if it is a duplicate carry on.
Bang Shift live coverage of the Bakersfield race.
http://bangshift.com/bs-productions-live-broadcast-page.html
Bang Shift live coverage of the Bakersfield race.
http://bangshift.com/bs-productions-live-broadcast-page.html