FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Social => Your Builds / Photo Gallery => Topic started by: gasserx on July 01, 2014, 11:51:16 PM
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Recently bought myself a Front engine dragster!
Complete roller ex. engine - not a project, but a good looking car ready to race when an engine is installed.
Everything smooth so far. Good comunication with seller, made a nice contract, payment made, and i was offered free storage for 3 months.
So now im trying to sort out shipping from USA to Norway ::)
First thing is to choose a shipping company. I have been in contact with several, and it turns out there are huge differences in prices! Also checking references - after all there is nothing new in importing cars from USA to Scandinavia, and there is lots of experience out there.
As soon as i have decided on one, i will have to arrange transport of the car from seller to the east-coast.
Its kind of a "nervous" situation..., afraid of loosing my money, getting a car in bad shape, shipping accidents etc etc.
But based on what i know so far, i have a very good feeling. (But i am not going to sleep well until the car is inside my garage) :o ;D
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Is the engine in the vehicle?
If it is you want to be sure the support the chassis so it is not constantly flexing in it's travels.
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did you have a 3rd party check out the car for you ? depending on where the car is located im sure you could find a 3rd party racer to inspect the car for you prior to buying ... or even help over see the shipment of it .
i have done this a few times over the yrs for guys out of state . if im local or its in my travels id gladley take an hour or so to help a guy out before buying ..
good luck with the new car
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I'm no expert but would do the same (inspect, oversee shipment pre)
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No engine in the car, but i will still ask for chassis support to avoid flexing.
Checked and approved...well, it will always be gambling as long as i dont fly over to have a look at it myself (can still be though). But i have words from another person that it is a nice car, yes.
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Good deal, pictures when you get it.
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Car is getting closer... loaded on ship and estimated to be over here 1. September - guess i can add a week or so for customs etc, but still.. soon 8)
Guess its time for a teaser pic now:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/155_5591em.jpg)
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Just beautiful!
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I like it!!!!
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Great looking Dragster.
Are there any inspections it has to go through (other than looking for illegal stuff)?
When I sold my El Camino to Rob Baarsma in Spijkerboor The Netherlands they required the starter mount on the engine to be tightened. Not sure what that was about, and Bob took care of it.
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Thanks guys!
I dont think so Glenn, not before im actually going to race it. Might be different if its a streetcar.
Do you recognize it? You have wrote about it on here in the photo section ;)
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That car belonged to a guy with Southernslingshots.com I have seen it but not recently. Back last summer I saw it in South Carolina last summer. It was a nice car then. I never liked the injector on an FED, looks too modern to me. Just my opinion though. LOL
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Thanks guys!
I dont think so Glenn, not before im actually going to race it. Might be different if its a streetcar.
Do you recognize it? You have wrote about it on here in the photo section ;)
I knew I had seen it before, but not where, I'm always looking a photos.
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This has taken way too long, but its my own "fault". Have been sent abroad for work, then got sick, all three kids have been sick, etc etc... something always got in my way. Car has been in Sweden for a month now... and i feel terrible about it. However, next wednesday we will get into the car and travel down to Gothenburg to pick it up! Nothing can stop me this time 8)
Here is a couple of pictures Adam took when he had it delivered to the port in Hampton, Virginia:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/IMG_8842em.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_0829.jpg)
Next weekend im gonna have a couple of beers with friends, sit in the car making noise, doing huge burnouts and brake records all day/night long ;D ;D ;D
Kids have booked some time too. The little "men" is very much looking forward to this. My daughter keeps telling me every day its not fair... she also wants her own racecar :D
Here is one of they guys at our local track this summer:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/IMG_1089.jpg)
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We need video of engine noises.
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Cant promise a video, but a few pics at least ..
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Yesterday was the day! Left home at 06:00 and headed for Gothenburg. Stopped for breakfast and fuel when we got to Sweden (its cheaper than in Norway). We arrived at the terminal around 9.30.
Have to say i was very excited and wanted to have a look at the car right away, but first they had to do some minor paperwork. Very nice people in the office and no surprises.
Paperwork done, and we walked downstairs and into the storage, and there it was :) Parked in a corner and looking very good! Only covered by a small layer of dust.
We spent a few minutes going over it, unbolted the wheeliebars and loaded it on my open trailer - wich by the way is a bit shorter than the car. Loaded it with the rear first and supported the frame in several places with woodblocks and some pillows i borrowed from our livingroom (dont tell my wife) to avoid damage to the paint. Worked very well!
Then heading back to Norway. Customs was a pain... so many trucks from eastern europe passing the border, and from what i could here in the customs office, 50 % of them was missing documents, passports, didnt speak english etc etc... i was expecting to stay there for the rest of the day waiting for my turn.
Took me 1.5 hour though, not THAT bad... and the customs guy was very helpfull, and he found it very interesting that i had a dragster with me. A couple of them was "inspecting" it just for fun, and thought it was badass. Even a few Swedish truckers came by and said it was a cool ride.
Several cars drove up on our side and give us the thumbs up as we were heading home 8)
It was a very good feeling to unload it back home and roll it into a warm garage. Needless to say, but i spent the rest of my day in the garage. Tight fit in there, but it feels very good.
I noticed there was a little "thingy" on the PG trans with two white wires on it that was disconnected, not sure what thats for, anyone knows? I can take a pic if thats needed.
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If that "thingy" is at the left rear of the trans, it's your trans brake solenoid.
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Yes, thats correct. I have little experience with these, but i thought it might be something like that.
Where should that connect? Sorry for the noob question that might be obvious for everyone else on here
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One wire to ground, the other to a push button switch on the steering wheel. Applying power should snap the solenoid in. The engine needs to be running to push it back out.
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Thanks :) im advised from a couple of people to not use it, and just run without. So i guess thats the way it will be as a start, but good to know anyway. Might have use for it some day.
I'm also one step forward regarding its history, waiting patient for some feedback now, and crossing my fingers the best i can. Might be lucky and find its pre -88 owner.
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Here is one happy girl 8)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/IMG_1315-225x300.jpg)
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I have been working hard lately, and i do have a lots of good news - at least for myself. Have been able to track down lots of history! I have got many pictures of the car in various paint-schemes and periodes with different owners, and im only about 6-7 years away from its very beginning, and im still waiting for more information that supposed to be available.
Car was originally shorter wheelbase, and it had a chutepack body also, but that was removed and replaced by the shorty that is on it now together with the fixed frontend and a few other details. The cage itself was upgraded in the late 80`s.
I also know the shop that did the changes to it in the 70`s, and i also know the name on the guy who did it, and i know where he works today - so im going to get in touch with him soon (i hope) ;) I hope he can fill in more details about how it looked back then.
Well, i still get told that the car came from Florida and was a top fueler. And i halso heard it once ran an nitro injected hemi in New Hampshire - non blown. Not sure what to trust here. But so far so good.
I have looked at so many thousands of pictures, and never found anything on them that reminded me very much of mine - but now, with the new information, i need to start all over again..haha, at least if i dont get any names.
Here is a teaser;
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/1912282_10152365488091244_8650372652403789964_n.jpg)
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Cool!
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xxxx I wish it was that easy for my car. I'm glad you are getting its history.
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xxxx I wish it was that easy for my car. I'm glad you are getting its history.
Thanks guys!
"Easy" is not the correct word to use..... ;D
I think i have spent hundreds of hours searching and asking around. Even in languages i dont understand a word of. You know, they speak some kind of weird french in Quebec ;)
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How about this 8) This is one of the oldest ones i have for now. Wish i could see the complete graphic. Trying to get more pics, but not that easy. It said Rooster.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/1530343_1385881048333828_1652148152_n.jpg)
Here in action. This is around 20 years before the new cage was made, and it has a different wheeliebar setup. The fixed frontend however is in place from this "version" of the car:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/numari15.jpg)
This is a bit newer, and with another owner:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/10703831_10152366943541244_6354252144328225645_n.jpg)
This time it was painted blue:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/1457710_10152367061396244_6914898960958833827_n.jpg)
Later on it was painted red again before beeing sold back to USA.
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And since im at it...
This should be somewhere in the Canadian part of the history too, i think between the blue and "newest" red version. Then owned by a guy named Dan Gavender.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/CCI20090203_00000.jpg)
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And for those of you that would like to see more... ;)
Here are the 1988 and later pictures, starting with the oldest:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Stone-and-Mederios-1.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Stone-and-Mederios-2.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Stone-and-Mederios-3.jpg)
Little bit of upgrades:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Stone-and-Mederios-5.jpg)
New owner again:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/10705367_10202606786963172_756130202_n.jpg)
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Great research!
So was it carbureted most of the time?
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Great research!
So was it carbureted most of the time?
Thanks ricardo
Seenms like it was SBC carburated since the Rooster and all the way until 2004.
Words says it had a nitro blown hemi in it originaly.
I think i have found the guy that rebuilt in the '70s, and im trying to find out how the chutepack body looked like, if it was a full body or just shorter version. Also the wheelbase.
Not sure if i can expect to find more right now... but im keep trying ;D
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Congrats on an awesome looking FED! Your research is moving along quite nicely, great pix!
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Man! That car has been good for the economy! Think how much $$$ , engines, paint, tires, fuel etc that thing has used up--I bet the $$ number would stagger you!
You have done one heck of a job on the history--Wow!
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Yeah, looks like it have been in the business all the way since its birth, have helped keep a few jobs alive for sure :)
Had a great chat with one of the early owners/drivers on saturday. He had some more information that might be of help.
Im trying to find the guy who chopped up the original chutepack car, but no luck so far. I cant sleep, thinking of it... Not sure how to get to him though. I have used all my previous leads and ways of finding him, but still nothing :-\ Havent found many chutepacks from old local pics around the area either - and it could be one of them, but its impossible to link any of them to my car without finding the owner or someone that knew the owner/team back then.
Got an email yesterday from a local guy in Ottawa that says he has lots of contacts, and he also was in the scene back in the days. Held the Canadian speed record in the early 50`s... wow. Might be lucky and he have some more information for me. I cross my fingers 8)
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Some pics;
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/20141211-174944.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/20141211-174952.jpg)
And inside this box a 358 sbc along with parts from Alkydigger.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/20141211-174932.jpg)
Shorty stacks???? Need to find a set of taller. Maybe make some myself.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/20141211-174918.jpg)
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Just got my chassis 7.50 certified for another 3 years 8)
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Got myself a trailer project yesterday for $100.
Not this one, but exactly the same model. Going to tow it home this weekend and start ripping it apart.
(http://image.bilgaraget.se/extra/carimg/905401_905500/polar-gle-905495_62639482.jpg)
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Keep us updated on the project.
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Keep us updated on the project.
Will do Glenn.
Im thinking something like this - built on a similar caravan as i have, but i want a lower profile with the wheels on the outside:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/13/2uda8e6y.jpg)
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Winter struck hard on saturday, so there was no way we could get it home without the risk of getting stuck or slide off the road, so we left it for a few more days. It snowed like....yeah, you know.
But we are going to give it a try again tomorrow.
Really hope i can start smashing it to pieces this weekend ;D
Meanwhile i have been going through the chassis, and its now back on its wheels again.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150109-091227.jpg)
It seems like the engine will be in Norway next week! I cross my fingers that its a good unit, otherwise i will run short on money if i have to start buying a whole lot of new parts.
Unfortunately no news on its history. Trying hard, but seems like i have met the wall.
Maybe i can go for a research trip to Canada one day ::)
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Towed it home ;D ;D ;D
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_0794.jpg)
This weekend im gonna have fun.
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I look out my window and my weather looks just like yours, 3 F degrees last night.
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Towed it home ;D ;D ;D
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_0794.jpg)
This weekend im gonna have fun.
I'm no fan of the hot weather but when I look at your pic I'm glad I live in a arid semi desert climate. It was about 115 F here a week or two back
Cheers
Tony
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Towed it home ;D ;D ;D
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_0794.jpg)
This weekend im gonna have fun.
I'm no fan of the hot weather but when I look at your pic I'm glad I live in a arid semi desert climate. It was about 115 F here a week or two back
Cheers
Tony
Little off topic but I had to ad this picture.
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Feel free to post Glen :)
Same weather over here. Yesterday night was weird though...thunder and lightning in the middle of winter..?!? Never seen that before.
Its a little bit wet today, but seems like its going back to normal tomorrow. A normal day in jan/feb is usually bellow -10 celsius. I drove a winterrally once in january, -35 to -38 celsius, THAT was cold (without heater)!
Tony, you can send some of your hot weather over here :)
Tomorrow is camper demolition time ;)
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Lots of work done today. And i had good help from my sons and two more boys.
We made a huge fire of all the wooden materials.
Its plenty wide enough, i have around 20cm cleareance from the inside of the fenders on each side to the widest point on my dragster.
The "worst" about this thing is that the wheels are in center, and most weight on my car is in the rear. So, i will probably extend the loading surface either forwards or backwards (depends on wich direction i decide to put the car on it). I have do some more measurements before i decide..
I might have to add some weight in the front or back to balance it corectly.
I know a similiar trailer beeing used for a RED, and they put it in on with the rear first, and that works fine for them - so i think im gonna be good.
I took it for a little ride on the farm where im working on it, and its perfect. It even had almost new all-weather tires :)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175849.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175859.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175910.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175917.jpg[/img
[img width=480 height=360]http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175930.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175939.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175947.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20150117-175930.jpg)
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No picture of the fire :(
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Take a closer look at the top picture... I'll see if i can enlarge it.
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Take a closer look at the top picture... I'll see if i can enlarge it.
A fire!
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I'm doing one as well from a Caravan chassis. What I did was move the axle back the length of the springs, chopped off the outer side sections of the chassis then beefed up where the car sits - if that makes sense.
Cheers
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/DSC02511_zps00a78f2c.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/DSC02511_zps00a78f2c.jpg.html)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/DSC02399_zpsdc081c1c.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/DSC02399_zpsdc081c1c.jpg.html)
(http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss117/Retro-boy/DSC02387_zps9a41bd8a.jpg) (http://s567.photobucket.com/user/Retro-boy/media/DSC02387_zps9a41bd8a.jpg.html)
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Engine not there yet!!! WOW. You'll have no worries with that piece.
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Hi Jim,
X-mas delayed everything, but it should be here on thuesday.
Retroboy, that trailer will look great with those fenders :D Looks like you have made a very rigid frame, should hold up without any problems.
Over here im not alloved to weld in the stock frame, so i have to make another frame and bolt it on. Im going to check with a couple of locals today if they can make me one, as i dont have the space at home right now to build/weld a 6 meter long frame.
And here is the picture for you Glenn 8)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/fire-1024x845.jpg)
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Basic design of the trailer is in place. A good friend with more space in his, shop will help me with the build. He is also a very good welder and an excellent fabricator/engine/car builder.
Going to order 30 metres of rectangular steel tubeing tomorrow ::)
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Hi Jim,
X-mas delayed everything, but it should be here on thuesday.
Retroboy, that trailer will look great with those fenders :D Looks like you have made a very rigid frame, should hold up without any problems.
Over here im not alloved to weld in the stock frame, so i have to make another frame and bolt it on. Im going to check with a couple of locals today if they can make me one, as i dont have the space at home right now to build/weld a 6 meter long frame.
And here is the picture for you Glenn 8)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/fire-1024x845.jpg)
FIRE!
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A huge box with my egine was "delivered" at my house today. The driver didnt want to drive down to my house and told me that he would unload it some 1000ft away..., wtf? I told him to put his thoughts right back up where they came from. I ended up with driving with my trailer a few kilometers to a huge parking spot and loaded in on there.
Got it home, and thank god it was icy today, and not just inches of snow. Just slid the box of my trailer, few meters on the ice and then into my garage.
Well, anyway, i cant open the box before later tonight, some family duty first >:(
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A huge box with my egine was "delivered" at my house today. The driver didnt want to drive down to my house and told me that he would unload it some 1000ft away..., wtf? I told him to put his thoughts right back up where they came from. I ended up with driving with my trailer a few kilometers to a huge parking spot and loaded in on there.
Got it home, and thank god it was icy today, and not just inches of snow. Just slid the box of my trailer, few meters on the ice and then into my garage.
Well, anyway, i cant open the box before later tonight, some family duty first >:(
Pictures!
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I can give you the ones on this side of the Atlantic!! LOL
But would be interested in what Marius received.
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Nice crate Jim
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1029-225x300.jpg)
Unboxed, removed the Brodix valve covers and tried the ones i got from Australia. They are huge!
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1033-0-225x300.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1036-0-175x300.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1037-0-225x300.jpg)
Mag, new fuel pump, etc etc also in the box.
Now i really need a set of zoomies, a starter, a torque converter and a few other minor parts.
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Wow Gas:
Kids ripping stuff apart and burning it.
A cool Front Engine Dragster.
Parts for said Dragster being delivered.
Now all you need is some meat being turned over a spit with your favorite beverage.
Some scantly clad women s
You have the man party of the year..LOL ::) 8) ;D :D ;) :)
Good for you bud
Luke
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Can I have my wood/crate back?
Looks like it made the trip well. All you need to do is bolt it back together drop some alky in it and spin it over!
Good luck with that piece, it was a great engine for me. It only has about 20 passes on it.
jim
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Nice
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Don't forget to put oil in it too. Had a friend do that and couldn't figure out why he had no oil pressure after starting it. Thought it was a sender and messed up his fresh engine.
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There's new oil in it
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Jim, of course you can have your crate back. I`ll store it here for you until you come visit Norway :D
...the day i forget to put oil in an engine, i will stop playing with cars and bikes. Not going to happen.
Haha..
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1028-01-300x225.jpg)
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I have too many questions about Small block Chevy motors with mechanical injection on alky (been wrenching mostly on Harley and aircooled VW boxers before), that i will keep my questions in my own thread to dont spam down the "Engines" section of the forum ;D
I have started to tear down my motor now.
Im sending the Brodix heads away to a family member that works on military machines all day long - and mainly the Leopard engines. They have all kind of the best tools available and he will test and go through them to check every thing is good, and if not - he will fix.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMG_1068-225x300.jpg)
Hilborn injection is disassembled. It will get a good cleanup, new gaskets and some new bolts, then assembled again.
Question: Im not going to run any water in the engine. Can i plug the water holes on the intake, or should i just leave them open?
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMG_1071-225x300.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMG_1070-300x225.jpg)
Motor came without flexplate, and i want an harmonic balancer with a smaller radius (because i think the one that was attached is too big)... and then send the rotating assembly off to balancing.
What would you guys recomend for a good combo (but not too pricey)?
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I have too many questions about Small block Chevy motors with mechanical injection on alky (been wrenching mostly on Harley and aircooled VW boxers before), that i will keep my questions in my own thread to dont spam down the "Engines" section of the forum ;D
I have started to tear down my motor now.
Im sending the Brodix heads away to a family member that works on military machines all day long - and mainly the Leopard engines. They have all kind of the best tools available and he will test and go through them to check every thing is good, and if not - he will fix.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMG_1068-225x300.jpg)
Hilborn injection is disassembled. It will get a good cleanup, new gaskets and some new bolts, then assembled again.
Question: Im not going to run any water in the engine. Can i plug the water holes on the intake, or should i just leave them open?
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMG_1071-225x300.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMG_1070-300x225.jpg)
Motor came without flexplate, and i want an harmonic balancer with a smaller radius (because i think the one that was attached is too big)... and then send the rotating assembly off to balancing.
What would you guys recomend for a good combo (but not too pricey)?
I would copy and paste this in Matt's Thread as this is an engine question, or I could move it for you if you wish?
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no need to re-balance--I bet $1000 it is internal balanced--get any damper you like that is neutral balance--get any SFI 168 tooth neutral flexplate--they are $60 everywhere you look and never look back--that engine had 20 runs according to Jim--just run it save your $$$$$
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Im sceptical to almost everything by nature... but i should probably listen to what you say David.
But im still opening the engine to inspect that all is good anyway.
20 runs with my previous racecar involved two engine teardowns to inspect that everything was okey, but that was not a V8 though :o
Okey, so i will try to decide on a new neutral damper and an SFI flexplate.
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Flexplate is easy $60 anywhere and damper that is smallest diameter is Romac--Mike at Alkydigger has them. ( tell Mike I sent you)I know Jim the man that sold you that engine--it is exactly what he said--he races with our club--JIm is also the best tuner we have so it will be dead on --I understand how you feel--I am the same way but that engine will be a good one. Use correct head gasket--bet it is a FelPro 1003 but just ask Jim--he will know best. It is great to watch your excitement! That first run will be a life changing event.
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Just got home from work and checked the balancer that came with engine. Its 6.25" diam.. Might be doing something wrong, but i cant see that this is going to fit at all. What are you other guys running with your cam driven fuel pumps?
I also noticed the head gaskets was Fel-pro 1004, so i guess i`ll order a few extra sets together with a flexplate and starter.
Any recomendations for valve cover gaskets also? I`ll order a bunch from Jegs or Summit.
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Buy the Felpro 1628 performance gasket you will only need one set
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Just got home from work and checked the balancer that came with engine. Its 6.25" diam.. Might be doing something wrong, but i cant see that this is going to fit at all. What are you other guys running with your cam driven fuel pumps?
Mine's is ATI 917252 (6.325" dia, 1" longer hub). I cut a small notch on the fuel pump base and had the damper hub trimmed to be as close as possible to the fuel pump mounting bracket (picture is before trimming).
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No need for new balancer!! That ones a brand new ATI. I used that with the fuel pump bolted to the cover, I had to "notch" the pump flange and that is why there the bolt on the bottom left is smaller, but it will work. I ran the smaller flexplate because there was no room on my chassis.
As for valve cover gaskets I used the blue silicone/metal ones and glued them to the valve cover, so when I checked the valves between rounds there was no looking around for them. Head gaskets you can use the same as what I left on motor for refrence.
Jim
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How about using a longer pump extension to move the pump further out if you are worried about clearance (despite the fact that the original package worked for Jim)?
Roo
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Im looking into it again tonight. Engine was not 100% complete, and one of the things i needed was a new pump and an extension that i got from Alkydigger.
Make sense now Jim... as you write you notched the pump flange.
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No need for new balancer!! That ones a brand new ATI. I used that with the fuel pump bolted to the cover, I had to "notch" the pump flange and that is why there the bolt on the bottom left is smaller, but it will work. I ran the smaller flexplate because there was no room on my chassis.
As for valve cover gaskets I used the blue silicone/metal ones and glued them to the valve cover, so when I checked the valves between rounds there was no looking around for them. Head gaskets you can use the same as what I left on motor for refrence.
Jim
Jim, you are absolutely correct! I can cut of the bottom of the pump flange and it will go clear! My bad...sorry about that.
I cleaned up the intake, and have ordered some new sets of gaskets for the throttle bodies from Alkydigger...as soon as they get here it goes back together.
Jim, did you run water in it?
Im not... So i was wondering if i could plug the front holes for the water on the intak, or should i leave them open?
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did you buy the your zoomies from Brendan Murray yet ? im thinking of buying a set, would love to see some pics if you have any
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I ran water in my engines. Like all the other posts on here about it, good idea. Regarding the water holes, if your running no water leave them open to vent a little bit and the same on the back ones as well. Just my thoughts on this one.
jim
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Heads are back from the health check. They are straight as can be and there is no leaks on closed valves. Ready to bolt back on!
I did not buy the zoomies yet.
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I got a set of those headers--priced right at $289 look great nice sweep etc but the welding was rough- hot and deep and skimpy-rather they had just tacked them and let me do it--took some doing to get them right but happy with them overall -- nowhere else to get anything near them for the $$--flanges are nice too
I would buy amother set if I needed some for sure
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Working... :D
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_1377.jpg)
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That looks familiar! Getting it done. Shouldnt be long now
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.... im slowing down and (or because) im running out of money, and its just a month to first race! :-\ Still waiting for a few parts from the other side of the pond also, its killing me!
I need a cure (quickly)....
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Hang in there Gasser! Don't rush it--take your time/do it right so you don't have any setbacks--no matter when you get that first pass it will be the best thing that ever happened--I have 7 runs on my car now and starting to get the feel of it pretty good--just take your time--go over everything twice and..do expect some small issues--just don't let them get you down--all part of it--
Jim, the guy you bought the engine from, and Adam the guy you got the car from will give you the best info on getting it all right--go with advice from them and you will be fine--it takes a few weeks to get used to a stack injection and whatever you do don't go messing with it and get it out of adjustment--talk with Jim BEFORE doing anything to that engine--Good Luck!!
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Thanks Dave,
Problem is there is only this weekend of license runs here - second weekend in May (small country and very few races over the summer). My brain is working overtime to figure out how to make this.
Im moving into my garage tonight trying to get a bit further, but im missing parts to get much more done at the moment :(
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I work at race parts place and fed-ex cheap overseas--what do you need?
can't you run un-licensed just for test and tune?
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I work at race parts place and fed-ex cheap overseas--what do you need?
can't you run un-licensed just for test and tune?
The parts are already on its way Dave, but easter delayed shipping. Local post is sometimes way to slow because of customs handling etc, but hopefully i have them in the beginning of next week... one week feels like a year right now, and work has to be done in shorter time.
Not sure if im allowed to run test-n-tune without license, i will check that.
I think i can get a basic personal license with just any daily driver just to pass the theory. But to run the car i thought i needed three license runs before i can do any racing at all...
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Over here we must have a NHRA license to race at official NHRA races but we can run other places, test all we want no problems--with no license at all. I bet you can attend test nights and get by--ask around.
Good luck, keep digging!
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Started working on the trailer last night. Stripped it down long time ago, but havent had space for it inside, so i have waited for the snow and ice to go away before i started.
I originally planed to build a new steel frame for it, but i have changed my mind to save some time and $$ at this point. I will use the stock steel frame (wich is kind of "flimsy" in the rear), but i`ll build a new wooden frame and floor on top of that. I guess it will be more than good enough for a few miles a year.
The frame is narrow, only 164 cm wide.
The original frame are already pre-drilled so all i have to do is cut and drill the wood, and bolt on. Then lights. And i`ll re-use the stock plastic fenders to save even more time and money ;D
$300 trailer... is not bad, when you consider that the trailer to the right on the picture cost almost $4000 new - here in Norway :-\
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_1578.jpg)
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Been busy tonight.... Need to go buy some materials for the floor tomorrow.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_1588.jpg)
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More progress today. Not finished yet, but getting there.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_1595.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_1594.jpg)
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Keep at just like the beaver--one bit at a time
You are doing great!
Let us know when you are ready to fire up--will give you some pointers that will help
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Keep at just like the beaver--one bit at a time
You are doing great!
Let us know when you are ready to fire up--will give you some pointers that will help
Thanks Dave!
Im still waiting for a few parts, but i just got informed that they will be here on saturday, so then im gonna lock myself into the garage and swallow the key ;D
Heads are torqued down. Just waiting for the pushrod retainers before i mount the rocker assembly. Also oilpan gaskets, flexplate, starter and exhaust flanges is in that box. Bolting up the intake and mount mag, fuelsystem etc, and few wires, then im close to starting it.
I might need help regarding wiring. What do i need for the mag? Its a coil of some sort in the car with an rev limiter (i`ll attach some pics later). And a few switches and wires/cables that im not sure whats for....
I dont need an tachometer i think, just setting the rev limiter to 6000 or 6500 for a start. How about other instruments? Oil temp/pressure? Oil lamp? Want to keep it at a basic minimum. Btw; im not going to test its limits at the first race.... just want to "feel" the car a little bit.
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Over reving is not an issue--it is worse for an angine to be bouncing off a rev limiter than turn a little hard one time--forget that
Mag just needs a kill switch--which is just a ground on a toggle switch
Oil pressure on back of engine up high enough you can see from inside car--direct to engine no need for it in the cockpit
do not over tighten the intake--it will distort it and make trouble
my car has a mag kill, no tach, oil pressure on back of engine, a starter button wired to starter solonoid and cable from battery to starter--that is it-- Use a clamp on bicycle light $10--on back of car for tail light--battery powered just flip it on when needed at night
Fuel--make SURE you clean new made fuel lines out with pressure washer etc make SURE!!! they are clean inside!!
For fuel shut off cable you can snag a new cable from truck supply or from salvage yard out of a big truck--the replacment cables sold for rear diff two speeds are ideal and cheap
Make sure you use a large stainless element filter between tank and pump--never paper element!
email me dusterdave173@gmail.com and i will send photos of anything you need for ideas and help
put mag in with oil pump on engine and before you put pan on check to make sure you have end play in oil drive shaft between pump and mag---would not hurt to put grease on mag gear --drop mag in , turn several times and check gear mesh between cam gear and mag gear--sometimes mag may need shimming up --some have adjustable collars--important to at least check mesh pattern see if it is in middle range
After everything is in place and you think you are ready you must go over the injection and check blade opening--get return springs on in corrct places etc
Tune up should be right on, Jim is great tuner and I would bet it is dead on for a start up and start out deal
Don't CHANGE OR ADJUST anything without asking Jim first--if you do --you may be sorry--it could take great effort and time to get it back right--stack injections are easy AFTER you get them right but a real nightmare when they are off
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I have ran into a few problems over the weekend! Me and a friend worked with the valvetrain and got everything in place and adjusted, all good so far.
Then we where going to mount the intake, and noticed two of the bolt holes in the heads are totally stripped.... xxxx thing! I should have checked this before i mounted the heads, but i thought all was good. Maybe im good with helicoils, need to ask around if someone has some.
Another thing is that the new 168-tooth flexplate that i got is too big, and i cant get it through the motorplate. That leaves me with another problem, and thats my converter - wich have the large bolt pattern. If i swap to a 153-tooth flexplate there is no other option than converter with small bolt-patter? (as far as i can find out at least).
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The flexplate does not, need to fit through the hole in the motor plate bolt the plate on than bolt the flexplate to the crank and continue to run the one you have
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Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...
(i assume you forgot an "not" in there 8) )
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Over reving is not an issue--it is worse for an angine to be bouncing off a rev limiter than turn a little hard one time--forget that
Mag just needs a kill switch--which is just a ground on a toggle switch
Oil pressure on back of engine up high enough you can see from inside car--direct to engine no need for it in the cockpit
do not over tighten the intake--it will distort it and make trouble
my car has a mag kill, no tach, oil pressure on back of engine, a starter button wired to starter solonoid and cable from battery to starter--that is it-- Use a clamp on bicycle light $10--on back of car for tail light--battery powered just flip it on when needed at night
Fuel--make SURE you clean new made fuel lines out with pressure washer etc make SURE!!! they are clean inside!! Will do!
For fuel shut off cable you can snag a new cable from truck supply or from salvage yard out of a big truck--the replacment cables sold for rear diff two speeds are ideal and cheap
Make sure you use a large stainless element filter between tank and pump--never paper element! Bought one from Alkydiggers!
email me dusterdave173@gmail.com and i will send photos of anything you need for ideas and help
put mag in with oil pump on engine and before you put pan on check to make sure you have end play in oil drive shaft between pump and mag---would not hurt to put grease on mag gear --drop mag in , turn several times and check gear mesh between cam gear and mag gear--sometimes mag may need shimming up --some have adjustable collars--important to at least check mesh pattern see if it is in middle range - i will check this tonight, not really sure whats correct, but i`ll see if i can figure it out and maybe take a picture or two
After everything is in place and you think you are ready you must go over the injection and check blade opening--get return springs on in corrct places etc
Tune up should be right on, Jim is great tuner and I would bet it is dead on for a start up and start out deal
Don't CHANGE OR ADJUST anything without asking Jim first--if you do --you may be sorry--it could take great effort and time to get it back right--stack injections are easy AFTER you get them right but a real nightmare when they are off
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Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...
(i assume you forgot an "not" in there 8) )
This is the way my rear engine plate is and it is a pain.
Every time you remove the engine you have to take the flex plate off.
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Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...
(i assume you forgot an "not" in there 8) )
This is the way my rear engine plate is and it is a pain.
Every time you remove the engine you have to take the flex plate off.
....but you still have it that way ;)
I understand its not optimal, thats why i asked. I will find another solution later, now i just want to get this thing running.
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Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...
(i assume you forgot an "not" in there 8) )
ha ha yes I will fix that
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Okey if thats what you guys do, i`ll do it also. Just thought that would be a little "odd"...
(i assume you forgot an "not" in there 8) )
This is the way my rear engine plate is and it is a pain.
Every time you remove the engine you have to take the flex plate off.
your mid plate is also a firewall for most of us and it is a part of the chassis.
Glenn why do you have to take the flex plate off to remove the engine? Can you not pull the engine with the motorplate still attached? Not a big deal to leave it all connected in my opinion
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Never thought of doing that way, I will look at it.
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We install and remove the engine and transmission as one unit (with midplate). The blower and injector are removed and we pick it up with the lifting bar and a short nylon strap to each corner of the heads.
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Brodix valve covers doesnt look good, so i have made new breathers on the ribbed covers i got from Aussiespeed
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/IMG_1889.jpg)
They are sand-casted, so they need a whole lot of work to look shiny, but they look pretty much better than the Brodix in raw condition anyway.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/IMG_2115.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_1036-0-175x300.jpg)
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I like the fined covers
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I like the fined covers
Thanks Glenn
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Making a little bit of progress... 8)
Made the first test-start with engine yesterday. We had some various problems that needed to be solved before it fired, like a brand new starter that seemed to be crap after a few turns (but couple of the guys tore it apart and made a few hotfixes to it, so it worked perfect later on).
It ran a little bit lean on 3 cylinders on idle, but full speed seemed to be okey. We removed the nozzles and cleaned them properly, but that didnt seem to help, so im going to check intake gasket and adjust butterflies.
Motor sounded real good though :)
Now im just hopeing it will run strong for a few races without any big problems. Full rebuild this winter, as there are several things that i want to improve.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/IMG_2410.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/IMG_2413.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/IMG_2411.jpg)
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That "Pig tail" vent on the fuel tank can become a problem, if fuel splash gets into it, its trapped and if not cleared before the run, The vacuum pull from the pump is not enough to suck it out and the fuel from the outlet will surge because of the blocked vent. If you bend it over at the base, now its a "cork-screw" and drains itself
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That "Pig tail" vent on the fuel tank can become a problem, if fuel splash gets into it, its trapped and if not cleared before the run, The vacuum pull from the pump is not enough to suck it out and the fuel from the outlet will surge because of the blocked vent. If you bend it over at the base, now its a "cork-screw" and drains itself
I agree to the theory, and a corck screw should be much better (i might make one some day), but this car has been racing with this exact pigtail for at least 45 years now, that makes me believe it should work as is, otherwise it would be thrown away a long time ago.
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It might is all I am saying, if you loose fire on the burnout its a place to look for the cause. Again other people look at pics for ideas and I am trying to get people to look at things to understand what is going on.
If anybody has a problem with what I am doing, let me know and I will leave
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Our car came with a pigtail wrapped around the #5 fire bottle several times. I thought the design was flawed when I took it loose and found fuel in the line. It was redesigned and is no longer a potential issue.
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My car has a similar pigtail design. If there is a better way I would like to try it. Not sure I understand. Do you have a pic? Thamks
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Bruce is right! Those things are on every darn car you see--it is a Monkey see Monkey do menatlity--they are a #1 trouble spot and most folks don't have a clue when they make trouble--we used a 2 in stub of pipe with clear tubing on it--everytime you hit the brakes it would slosh--and fill that loop like a sink trap drain--I use clear to figure out how to do it then make it in metal that way I KNOW it is working right.
thanks DRE--sharp eye good comment. I have mentioned it to car owners in the pits and they start hating you vs. thinking it out and making change for the better so now I just don't poke the bear.
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coil sideways makes sink trap
coil vertical like a corkscrew will drain back in tank
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If anybody has a problem with what I am doing, let me know and I will leave
Wait a sec... :-\ now you make it sound like i have a problem with you and/or your advice?!? Well.., i dont..., just to make that clear!
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Bruce, can you please post a picture of the design you're recommending?
Thank you
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Take some clear tubing and wrap it around a can. Secure the tubing with some tape. Add liquid to the tubing. It will hold fluid on the bottom side of the loops when the can is on it's side and drain when upright. Sorry I have no pictures. There are some other issues I considered when we built our vent but I think you get the idea?
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I vote for an Eddie Hill , Fuzzy Carter vent... ;) ;) ;) ;)
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I vote for an Eddie Hill , Fuzzy Carter vent... ;) ;) ;) ;)
Did it look like a banana? Lol
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Come on man the suspense is killin' me. I saw the pic's on Facebook but no word from you? How did you go on the weekend?
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Come on man the suspense is killin' me. I saw the pic's on Facebook but no word from you? How did you go on the weekend?
Sorry :)
It went better than i hoped for, although we struggled a little bit on saturday with various issues. We had a great weekend, and there was lot of nice people helping us and gave us thumbs up!
Here is a video from one of the test-runs on sunday:
https://youtu.be/Ko_acx6MrTQ (https://youtu.be/Ko_acx6MrTQ)
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Maybe time for a little update...
Think maybe i posted some in other places in the forum but anyway :D
My trailer project went to h**l, not because it didnt work, but because of the "officals", to much forwards and back, so i sold it to a guy that was more motivated..haha.
So, i bought this:
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/IMG_3135.jpg)
Old Mercedes 508 wich have been a military vehicle, barely used, and stored inside for the most of its life. These machines are known to go for ever, and they are very popular to convert into campers for long trips around the world.Well, thats not my plan with it. I hope to find a way to tuck my FED in there somehow - and be able to have a couple of "removable" beds and some storage for tools etc. Its cargo space is just a little bit too short to get the doors closed, but i have a plan for a small extension back there...or, Im actually thinking about shorten my dragster chassis too... i like the way it handles on the strip, but there are several practical reasons for wanting a shorter chassis. I have been in several situations last summer that i had to handle the car all by myself, and i find it hard to move it around etc becuase of the length. My garage is also on the short side...it fits, but just about.
Dont remember exactly how many passes i got, but i think 16 or 17. Best run ended with a 9.08 @ 1/4mile - it went faster and faster every time. Learned A LOT. And i have lots more to learn, and few tuning tips to apply.
Had plans for another event, but found some glitter in the oil, so the engine was taken apart. Just needed to polish the crank, and change to new bearings.
Here is one of the best runs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSybguIWufY&index=4&list=FLT0h6fTWdsk55UDzqA9hVlw
After the season ended, i was invited to Norways largest Car show, and i had FED on display there over the weekend.
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/IMG_3367.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/IMG_3361.jpg)
(http://www.speedfreak.no/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/IMG_3384.jpg)
Spring is closing in, so i better get back to work soon :D
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To bad about the trailer, but if you get the van to work that will be great.
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That's one great looking FED!
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Looking good.
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Awesome thread here, great looking car and tremendous desire by the owner to get it all together and to the track. Love the videos, motor sounds killer. As far as your history goes, here's my addition. Early photos, no way it was a Canadian record holder in the 50's. that style of chassis is probably 67 or 68 build. Definitely Eastern Canada car as pics are at Sanair ( Quebec Cda) and drivers name would appear to be French Canadian. It would have competed in NHRA division 1 in Comp eliminator probably in the C/D class. Real cool car you got there man, keep at it and please more video. Your local track looks very nice and sure has some teeth. Cheers
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Awesome thread here, great looking car and tremendous desire by the owner to get it all together and to the track. Love the videos, motor sounds killer. As far as your history goes, here's my addition. Early photos, no way it was a Canadian record holder in the 50's. that style of chassis is probably 67 or 68 build. Definitely Eastern Canada car as pics are at Sanair ( Quebec Cda) and drivers name would appear to be French Canadian. It would have competed in NHRA division 1 in Comp eliminator probably in the C/D class. Real cool car you got there man, keep at it and please more video. Your local track looks very nice and sure has some teeth. Cheers
Hi Steve, think you got something wrong somewhere, or i have typed in some strange things..haha.
But it was sure not a 50`s record holder, but i think i wrote somewhere that i spoke to some Canadian guy wich had been racing in the 50`s with some records and that he was helping me out or something...
I know my car is built somewhere in the late 60`s. I was able to track down history to the late 70`s, but it stopped there.
I have some information that might be useful to the correct person, but i need to find some oldtimers from around Montreal that would remember the car - no luck so far.
Thanks for the kind words :)