541
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Aircooled VW powered Slingshot
« on: July 12, 2014, 11:51:51 AM »
Yes, Steve has been working on his FED Nitro VW for a few years, with the hope of running in NHRA 7.0 Pro Heritage.
Jon
Jon
FEDs Forever!
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542
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: 200 oinch Finished Up!
« on: July 07, 2014, 09:24:43 PM »
That's interesting since those cars run 3 speeds, and as far as I know, they run 33x12x15 Hoosiers or GoodYear.
One thing to keep in mind is the 10.5's have stiff sidewalls, thus they don't grow, so mph will be down.
I'll let you know how they work, Dean Carter is thinking of testing them also, in Sonoma.
Jon
One thing to keep in mind is the 10.5's have stiff sidewalls, thus they don't grow, so mph will be down.
I'll let you know how they work, Dean Carter is thinking of testing them also, in Sonoma.
Jon
543
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: 200 oinch Finished Up!
« on: July 07, 2014, 12:44:08 PM »
Are these "Fast Guys" running them on 1430 lb FED , and going 180-190 mph ?
I would like to talk to any FED using 10.5 tires.
I know beside 10.5 classes there are door cars running well on the 10.5's.
Thanx,
Jon
I would like to talk to any FED using 10.5 tires.
I know beside 10.5 classes there are door cars running well on the 10.5's.
Thanx,
Jon
544
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Switch to Mag?
« on: July 06, 2014, 02:36:10 PM »
George, what compression ratio are you running and what fuel flow ?
I find with the more combustion pressure you run the more ign you need.
If you are running 13 to 1 compression, and under 2 gpm fuel flow you may not need a mag.
As far as the weight of an on-board battery to power your dist ign, you could go with lighter battery, I sell a 12 volt, 550 amp battery that weights under 5 lbs. And MSD said a 7al only needs a 12-15 amp battery, which I can get that weighs 1 lb.
I'm sure Spud can fill-in some details, on mag vs dist ign systems.
Jon, Hayden Wheels, 800-624-3803
I find with the more combustion pressure you run the more ign you need.
If you are running 13 to 1 compression, and under 2 gpm fuel flow you may not need a mag.
As far as the weight of an on-board battery to power your dist ign, you could go with lighter battery, I sell a 12 volt, 550 amp battery that weights under 5 lbs. And MSD said a 7al only needs a 12-15 amp battery, which I can get that weighs 1 lb.
I'm sure Spud can fill-in some details, on mag vs dist ign systems.
Jon, Hayden Wheels, 800-624-3803
545
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: 200 oinch Finished Up!
« on: July 05, 2014, 03:09:04 PM »
Dave, Thanks for the "Thanks" about Hayden Wheels.
Are you burning alky ? And what tire pressures are going to start with on your M/T's ?
I have a set too, for our B/ND, but have not tried them, yet. Planning on testing them this month at the Div 7 race in Sonoma.
Jon Hansen
Are you burning alky ? And what tire pressures are going to start with on your M/T's ?
I have a set too, for our B/ND, but have not tried them, yet. Planning on testing them this month at the Div 7 race in Sonoma.
Jon Hansen
546
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Aircooled VW powered Slingshot
« on: July 01, 2014, 12:14:12 PM »
Steve from Wolfgang VW has a FED VW that ran 7.25, 180 mph , with no turbo or blower.
Jon
Jon
547
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: ordered chute.....buddy say to big?
« on: June 30, 2014, 06:55:22 PM »
CJ, yes 12 ' seems big for your 130 mph car. One thing to keep-in-mind is you can "tune" a chute by adjusting where all the lines come together. BY chocking the lines you make the chute act smaller, because it's catching less air. Also keep-in-mind Garlits stopped driving because of eye problems from de-acceleration from chutes. Use common sense here.
I adjusted my 1'st chute on my 60's nitro JrFueler, so it would stop soon enough but not throwing me into my belts. At some tracks I raced in the MidWest, I opened it up more because of short shut downs.
Have fun !
Jon Hansen, Heritage JrFuel racer, and Hayden Wheels.
I adjusted my 1'st chute on my 60's nitro JrFueler, so it would stop soon enough but not throwing me into my belts. At some tracks I raced in the MidWest, I opened it up more because of short shut downs.
Have fun !
Jon Hansen, Heritage JrFuel racer, and Hayden Wheels.
548
Wanted to buy / Re: Need a small parachute complete for my 10sec. FED.
« on: June 28, 2014, 11:24:31 AM »
Are you looking for used or new ? If new is OK, call Parks, they sell a light weight chute.
Jon, Hayden Wheels
Jon, Hayden Wheels
549
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Looking for a lost dragster Dos Palmas Machine Spl. AA/GD
« on: June 28, 2014, 10:32:29 AM »
Come-on Now, Bruce how about some more pictures of Paul Stages AA/Comp car.
Thanks for posting pix.
Jon Hansen
Thanks for posting pix.
Jon Hansen
550
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: A/ND & B/ND
« on: June 19, 2014, 09:15:19 AM »
Actually there is no difference in $$$$$, it costs as much to build a A/ND as a B/ND, just different part numbers.
B/ND can run raised runner 23° SBC iron heads, but limited to 2 7/8" injectors.
A/ND can run any valve angle, and they can run Hilborn rotary injectors.
B/ND can run raised runner 23° SBC iron heads, but limited to 2 7/8" injectors.
A/ND can run any valve angle, and they can run Hilborn rotary injectors.
551
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Bad Alcohol??
« on: June 19, 2014, 09:09:28 AM »
Was that the only change you made, different alky ?
552
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: How to properly launch a FED?
« on: June 02, 2014, 09:39:58 AM »
Mr Fitz, I agree with Bruce, shoe polish on the wheelie bar wheel, and look at marks on the track after you take off. You can also use VHT wheelie bar spray, or I use kids side walk chauk. Also if you have a crew member video your runs have them shoot your wheelie bar tracks so you can watch.
I have run into a FED pulling to the right when I had one of my motors in a B/ND running in NHRA Comp, we fixed it for that event until we got the slick company to give us another pair, by running 1/2 pound more in the right slick.
Another good idea is to check rear end location by measuring wheel base on both sides, keeping in mind if your chassis has an offset front axle [ NHRA allows 2" offset]. I know a famous JrFuel driver that always commented on how much he had to "drive" the dragster that was built in the 80's, but when they had the car "front halfed " the chassis guy found the rear end was not square in the frame, so Don was very happy afterward that the car went straight. The very best thing to do if you think your race car is not plum is get it on a chassis jig.
The reason the wheelie bar height is important is if your bar is too high, and you have a tight converter, at launch you could be jerking you front end up hitting the wheelie bar hard thus unloading your slicks and maybe unloading your right slick more. Bruce is right about 2 1/2" height. It could also add to your problem if your wheelie bar is too stiff, thus adding to the unloading of your slicks. We use a 3 bar CM 5 feet long with no supports between the 3 tubes so it works like a spring and more gently pushes the front end down.
Another crazy thing that might be going on is since you are new to this FED deal is right after launch you may be looking for your shifter [ on the right ?] thus going to the right. After all you will go to where you are looking.
Have Fun with your new project !
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer-Hansen-Hook JrFuel
I have run into a FED pulling to the right when I had one of my motors in a B/ND running in NHRA Comp, we fixed it for that event until we got the slick company to give us another pair, by running 1/2 pound more in the right slick.
Another good idea is to check rear end location by measuring wheel base on both sides, keeping in mind if your chassis has an offset front axle [ NHRA allows 2" offset]. I know a famous JrFuel driver that always commented on how much he had to "drive" the dragster that was built in the 80's, but when they had the car "front halfed " the chassis guy found the rear end was not square in the frame, so Don was very happy afterward that the car went straight. The very best thing to do if you think your race car is not plum is get it on a chassis jig.
The reason the wheelie bar height is important is if your bar is too high, and you have a tight converter, at launch you could be jerking you front end up hitting the wheelie bar hard thus unloading your slicks and maybe unloading your right slick more. Bruce is right about 2 1/2" height. It could also add to your problem if your wheelie bar is too stiff, thus adding to the unloading of your slicks. We use a 3 bar CM 5 feet long with no supports between the 3 tubes so it works like a spring and more gently pushes the front end down.
Another crazy thing that might be going on is since you are new to this FED deal is right after launch you may be looking for your shifter [ on the right ?] thus going to the right. After all you will go to where you are looking.
Have Fun with your new project !
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer-Hansen-Hook JrFuel
553
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Help with stack injection
« on: June 02, 2014, 08:53:30 AM »
How we prime our JrFueler is the 1'st time we fire the motor in the pits is we spin the motor, with mag off and spark plugs out, until fuel comes out the spark plug holes and of course by then we see oil pressure too. The only problem we have ever had is when our Hilborn pump was not all the way "in" the pump drive on the cam. You may have a problem if you fuel pump/ motor sits allot higher than your fuel tank. Mechanical fuel injection pumps are great "pushers" not good "pullers".
Our start-up program is open throttle, squirt alky into stacks, spin motor then flip mag on. If you have just changed you main jet or hi-speed you may have to try it a couple of times because you will have air in the system since you opened it up to make changes.
Good Luck and have fun with your race car.
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer-Hansen-Hook JrFuel "B" with Wayne Ramay driving to the 2013 and 2014 March Meet wins
Our start-up program is open throttle, squirt alky into stacks, spin motor then flip mag on. If you have just changed you main jet or hi-speed you may have to try it a couple of times because you will have air in the system since you opened it up to make changes.
Good Luck and have fun with your race car.
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, and Hammer-Hansen-Hook JrFuel "B" with Wayne Ramay driving to the 2013 and 2014 March Meet wins
554
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Congrat's to Brian Darcy
« on: May 25, 2014, 05:23:13 PM »
Congrats Brian on your 6.82 194.94, AND your 6.78 194 Great runs !
I guess your small motor/ light car combo is working.
Good Luck with your next race.
Jon
I guess your small motor/ light car combo is working.
Good Luck with your next race.
Jon
555
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Goodyear D2585 Question
« on: May 16, 2014, 11:12:33 PM »
On our 12" wide wheels with 6 lbs of pressure my D2585's have 1 1/2" from the rim edge to the sidewall.
The less tire pressure the more the sidewall "bubbles", less tire growth. With only a couple pounds of pressure my tires where at 2 1/4"
We make about 900 hp with our Heritage Jr Fueler, and need the 12" rim because with the 11" rim it would get loose at about half track. We ran 10" rim for about 8 years, which gave us more tire growth, ie less RPM at the finish. Are you sure you need a 12" rim ?
The less tire pressure the more the sidewall "bubbles", less tire growth. With only a couple pounds of pressure my tires where at 2 1/4"
We make about 900 hp with our Heritage Jr Fueler, and need the 12" rim because with the 11" rim it would get loose at about half track. We ran 10" rim for about 8 years, which gave us more tire growth, ie less RPM at the finish. Are you sure you need a 12" rim ?