Messages

511

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Lithium Batteries

« on: September 24, 2014, 12:01:49 PM »

Dragster Nut, are you asking about 18 volt, because that is what you are using to start your car now? You might want to call your data computer guys about 18 volts.
We use a 15 amp, 12 volt 1lb lithium battery in the car to power the trans-break and RacePak for 4 years now.
If you change to a remote battery pak, the cheapest would be two 12 volt car battery in your tow truck or golf cart. The remote battery pak we used before our current two Harley Davidson Lithium batteries is two Harley Oddessy batteries. One trick to consider is all the teams using a remote battery use a quick disconnect connector, I get mine from a fork lift dealer, but look, ask around other racers you race with to see what size/ color connector they are using. Talk to all of them about using the same connectors so if anyone is about to start, but have a dead battery, then another team can just plug in and get going.
Most JrFuel racers use A MSD 12 or 20 amp mag, ign box and two step. Again, they all use a 24 volt battery start system. The down side to lith batteries is the cost, the batteries I use and sell thru Hayden Wheels cost $260 each, but my crew is happy the new battery pak carrier, and cables weighs less than 10 lbs.
The reason the JF guys use the MSD mags is with high compression, high RPM, and allot of fuel flow, you get high combustion pressure, so the motor needs more juice. Now I understand Spud has had some success with his Mallory, hoped up points mag.

Feel free to call my cell anytime if you have any questions. 805-444-4489,
Jon Hansen , haydenent.com

512

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: trailer floor space

« on: September 23, 2014, 11:27:01 PM »

Make sure you use a double strap on your rear tires, a single can come loose.  Also support your chassis at the rear motor plate, to keep the chassis from flexing while towing. I've seen busted chassis just from towing, not racing. Plus we always check the trailer/ racecar when we stop for fuel or a piss break. The last chassis I saw cracked/ broken was when the racer relied on the inflatable type support, that of course, it developed a leak and the chassis bounced around. 

Good Luck, and have Fun !
Jon, Hayden Wheels, and JrFuel Dragster Association

513

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Front End Designs / traction issues

« on: September 23, 2014, 11:09:48 PM »

Hello DragsterNut, welcome to this site and FED racing.
Here are my thoughts, I think you are hurting your self running the 30x10.5 tires, the 10.5 tires are designed for 2,000-3,000 # door cars , so they have stiffer sidewalls than what dragsters want. I would at least lower the tire pressure, we run 5 3/4 to 6 # on my JrFueler running 7.0's and 189 mph. What most of the fast JF teams use is 31x12x15 GoodYear D2585, but GY is not making them now, so try the newest Hoosiers of the size. The GoodYears weigh 22.6 lbs each and that's less rotating weight. Does the 4.11 give you the RPM  you are looking for going thru the finish line ? If your motor can stand more RPM, then but a 4.33, or 4.56 in it because the lower gear will allow the tires to hook up sooner.  We changed to a 1.68 trans gear so we hit the tires softer. Also try leaving at a lower launch RPM. Your stall seems close, but the best is to find out what RPM range your cam/ motor wants to run. Then get a converter that will work in that range. Case in point if your motor will be happy starting at 7,000 then your motor is struggling from 6700 to 7,000.  Also what size is your converter, if it's 9" or 10" to have too much flywheel effect, besides more rotating weight.  Most of the fast JrFuelers run  7" .
As far as losing car weight, 1'st thing I would do is take that heavy battery out, and convert to a remote battery pak.  Again most JF guys use two batteries in series to get 24 volts so it will will spin the motor enough to get the mag working and over come our 15-17 to 1 compression. Our remote 24 volt battery pak weighs 10 lbs total. Alky runs better with higher compression and motor heat. We leave the start line around 180-200°.
BTW, I can covert your wheels to 17", just send me your 16" and I'll clean-up/ polish your early Ford Crietz hubs and make spokes for 17" rims, chrome or alum. And of course I have 17" rib tires.
Feel Free to call my cell anytime, 805-444-4489 with any questions.

514

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: trailer floor space

« on: September 22, 2014, 01:42:58 PM »

OK, here is a couple of options I've seen or helped load and unload.
The removable [ steel or alum] or non-removable rack for golf cart works by making the roof of the golf cart removable, then load the cart 1'st, then load your FED in so the front-end is under the cart.
Option two is back your FED into the trailer, and move the front end to one side of the trailer [ use a patch of carpet to protect my wire spoke wheels], and the load the cart next to the dragster on the other side.  This would be a good option if you want to use your cart before and after you have loaded the race car. And you may be able to hang the JR over the FED, just make sure your trailer can handle the weight of the JR, or build a frame support inside the trailer.
The most inventive trailer loading I've seen was, in a 24' trailer [or maybe shorter], had a big removable tool box, a Chevy II [ Super Gas], golf cart, and a FED [ A/ND] with the front end hung from the roof. He had installed a steel frame inside the trailer to tie the dragster front-end to, so the front of the dragster hung over the Chevy II. OH Ya, the big stackable tool box in the front of the trailer.
YUP, all this in a two axle trailer. Sorry I have no pictures or not sure of the size of the trailer. 
Of course the amount of floor space you are using for tool boxes, work benches, wheels/ tires, etc may have to be relocated.
So get out your measuring tape, and have fun !

Jon Hansen

515

Drag Racing / Re: Who Is going to New England Hot Rod Reunion in Epping, NH Sept 12 - 14

« on: September 14, 2014, 08:32:52 PM »

Yes, Congrats Glenn,
       Looks you are having Fun Now !

        Jon

516

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Intro...Geez I really miss drag racing

« on: September 13, 2014, 11:30:17 AM »

WOW, what a Great Looking Parks car !

But there most be something wrong with you, your shop is WAY TO CLEAN !!

Where, when are you planning on racing ?   I'd love to have you come out west and race with us in the NHRA Heritage Jr Fuel series.
Maybe you and Darcy  could team up and put both cars in one trailer, what do you think ?

Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, and Jr Fuel Dragster Association

517

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What did you do on your Front Engine Dragster TODAY?

« on: September 12, 2014, 10:04:37 PM »

I'm very Glad you like your wheels !
Have a great time with your dragster !

Jon

518

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: New Car Build 205"

« on: August 30, 2014, 09:36:52 PM »

Zoomies look the best, but collectors will give you better power.
Our zoomies are aimed at the top of the slicks. Action-reaction theory.

519

Drag Racing / Re: Stagging Rules / Etiquette

« on: August 29, 2014, 11:12:56 PM »

In my 50 [ yes] years of dragracing I have not run into that, it sure seems illegal. I bet it is in NHRA racing, maybe it's a local door car trick.  NHRA does not allow crew to be near the race cars when staged. I guide my driver  to just before the 1'st beam, then back away, so he can finish staging. I'll check the rule book.
But I will tell you  I saw the 2013 Comp Elim champ [A/AP] have a problem red lighting, against a certain door car racer. I saw the video of his car not even wringle his slick and his red light came on, after the door car left. NHRA checked his video and the staging beams, and tree, but found no issue.  So the thought was since this happend at least twice before with against the same racer, that something fishy was going on. One thought was the door car racer had the photographer stand at the start line and shot flash pictures, and the flash bounced off the front wheel and triggered the red light. NHRA told all photographers to not stand near the start line. Also another  fix was to powder coat both front wheels black and added a bigger wheel disc, no red lights after both of those changes.   

Crazy Heh ?
Jon

520

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: MOTOR PLATE , FLEX PLATE AND TORQUE CONVERTOR BOLT UP.

« on: August 27, 2014, 10:55:51 AM »

We have nutserts in the flexplate and just run the converter bolts in from the converter side. No clearance issues with motor plate, plus we buy our converters to consider motor plate thickness.
We have set-up our converter swap process so we can swap converters in 25 minutes, you know between rounds, except for the semi/ final round because they tend to push the time for the finals.

Have Fun

521

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: more questions

« on: August 23, 2014, 09:50:29 AM »

Your problem may be the 50% barrel setting, that is way rich, we set our valve at 18% using a cylinder leakdown.
We keep track of the barrel setting because it can change after we pull the injectors off the motor. I like 18% because it lets my motor build engine heat, and the hotter we get the engine temp on my alky burning motor the better it runs. I try to get the engine temp to 180° to 200° just before staging in my all iron SBC with water.  150° to 160° with no water. BTW on  dyno testing we found the SBC would make 20 more HP using water in the block & heads. WE think because, ya the more even temps is part of it, but the water gives the cylinders more support and also cuts down on harmonics, there by getting better ring seal, and that's where the extra power comes from.

Have Fun
Jon Hansen

522

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Exhaust temp questions

« on: August 23, 2014, 09:35:45 AM »

I have found when using my infared temp gun, the zoomie temps vary depending on the coatings on the pipes. I have had my pipes, chromed, VHT painted, High Temp ceramic coated, and even raw. I use the temp gun during warm-up to adjust the injectors to get them even temps. The EGT temps will vary depending on cam timing and yes tune-up. 1300° is too high for my combo, but some cams with more overlap can put too much fuel in the pipes and burn the alky in the pipes, so you can get higher EGT's. That's why it's hard to compare different racers EGT.
The best is to read your spark plugs, I use NGK because they are cad plated, and will burn off showing me how much heat I'm getting on the plugs/ in the motor. I have recommended to other racers that when they are working on their tune-up to install at least one new plug for each run so you can see what's going on. Example 1'st run of the day put a new plug in # 1 hole, 2'nd run new plug in # 2, etc. Just keep track of which cylinder has the new plug, I have a tool tray with S-plug holders, I just keep the run plug in the tray to remind me which has the new plug.

Have Fun,
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels 

523

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Oils and Methanol

« on: August 23, 2014, 09:13:55 AM »

My race oil supplier says we should NOT use a full synthetic oil in a methanol race engine, because synthetic oil and methanol are ester based products and the alky will dilute the oil too much. I use Motul 6100 10w40 synthetic blend oil in my 10,000 rpm NA SBC for 8 or 9 years. After replacing my alum rods when I got to 80 runs, the bearings looked so good I just put back on the rods.  Hey I'm not that cheap, rod bearing don't cost that much, but the bearings looked good, and were all broke in. We also run 60 to 65 lbs of oil pressure.  I use 6100 15w50 in my Hemi, different clearances.  Motul has additives that help anti-forming, anti-milking, besides lubing the high RPM motor.  If you have trouble finding Motul car oil [ most MC shops carry Motul] call Motul at 909-625-1292 for a dealer near you.
When I first started helping my current race car partner, he was not happy with the look of his bearings. Also I had not raced powerglides before only clutches so I bought a RacePak computer to understand what was going on with the FED. We found that the Titan oil pump had to adjusted down because the computer showed we were at 120 lbs. The bearings looked allot better at 55 to 65 lbs.
BTW we have never hurt any of my motors in 12 years of racing 7.00's 188 mph racing because of oil issues. We only hurt stuff because the trans broke and both times the motor went to 12,000 rpm. 

Have Fun with your race car.
Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels, 805-444-4489

524

Wanted to sell / Re: 17 IN AKRONTS with AVONS MINT!

« on: August 18, 2014, 10:51:29 AM »

Yes Dave, check is in the mail,
Thank You.
Jon

525

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FEDs on trailers

« on: August 14, 2014, 03:09:28 PM »

DON, no not every spindle, but I have made/modified hubs to fit odd-ball spindles. Like Euro M/C side car wheels, Fiat spindles,  airplane wire wheels, etc.
I have an inventory of odd hubs that I may be able to fit your spindles.  I just made a set of wheels and tires for the "Super Snake" Don's 67' FED SOHC dragster, and I had the exact hubs, rims, and tires he ran on his car in 1967.
So if you'd like some wire spoke wheels on your slant 6, call me, 805-444-4489, and think about sending me one of your spindles, when you are ready for some "Down Time".
And once we have hubs that will work on your spindles, then think about what size wheels and tires you'd like, that will change the look of your Hot Rod.

Jon Hansen, Hayden Wheels.