Messages

46

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: the Prisoner

« on: May 07, 2017, 06:15:08 AM »

Luke, Peterson makes an adapter that lets you run your fuel pump off of the back of the R4 pump. I use that on my car. If you do it that way, the engine will stop running if you ever lose the oil pump drive belt. I can send you pictures if you want.

47

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Setting push rod length

« on: April 19, 2017, 05:07:49 PM »

Well I am not a guru but my B/ND SBC motor uses two different push rod lengths...one for the intakes, one for the exhausts. The lengths are set to .01". Use the strongest push rods (largest OD, thick wall) you can physically fit in the motor. Don't worry about their weight!

48

Drag Racing / Re: Back to work this weekend

« on: April 18, 2017, 01:39:28 PM »

Have fun with it Bill! Hopefully I will see you at race #2

49

Drag Racing / Re: First run cost

« on: April 09, 2017, 08:48:32 AM »

I agree with the posts above. You don't even want to know what it costs! I can tell you that in the early 1990s I calculated expenses based on 60 runs with our Top Alcohol Dragster. We were reasonably competitive at the NHRA National level. I included travel, entry fees, parts depreciation, etc. If the car did not break any parts, it was $1065 per run. I can't imagine what it costs to run one of those today.

50

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Converter to flexplate gap

« on: April 05, 2017, 05:57:46 PM »

My thoughts are you have too much clearance. Look up aluminum unthreaded spacers on the McMaster Carr website and get .125" thick spacers.

51

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Got a problem. Probably fuel supply issue.

« on: March 27, 2017, 02:41:24 PM »

Now that your poppets are sorted out, you may need to adjust your barrel valve leak down for a proper idle.

52

Wanted to buy / Re: WTB Main Bearings

« on: March 21, 2017, 04:09:57 PM »

Thanks for the advice Bill. I just contacted them and are waiting for their reply. Clevite discontinued the bearings that I have been using and are looking for. It looking like I may have to go to option B which is the spacers with Calico coated MS429HX bearings. Thanks again!

53

Wanted to buy / WTB Main Bearings

« on: March 20, 2017, 03:08:54 PM »

Looking for Clevite MS1110HXK if anyone has a set that they will part with. Thanks

54

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: #6 line how much return

« on: March 14, 2017, 06:20:33 AM »

Don't know any specifics about that motor but I agree with you...generally 13.5 GPM at 4000 (pump) speed should be a bit rich for a roots blown combo. Is it a 14-71 hi helix? If so, it should still haul butt with 13.5 in it. Sounds like you may have to go through everything. I've seen two guys with the rotors swapped (both after restrips) and they will run rich and are down on power. Check and make sure that the rotor helix follows/matches the pie shaped opening on the bottom of the blower case. Is the ignition okay? How much timing in it?
For reference, my old TAD combo was 438 KB Hemi, Veney heads, R-296, 11.8/1, 14-71 hi helix, 46% over, 12 GPM at 4000, Super Mag 4 and 38 degrees of lead. Would go 5s at 230 down a dirt road. Good luck!

55

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: #6 line how much return

« on: March 13, 2017, 05:49:58 PM »

Total area of the three jets is 0.02466156 in2. Area of the #6 hose is 0.11044 in2.

If it is a roots blown deal, make sure the rotors are not swapped. I've seen that happen before.

56

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: #6 line how much return

« on: March 13, 2017, 02:39:58 PM »

Are your sure the blower is good?

57

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: February 28, 2017, 02:03:36 PM »

Back when I used to run TAD, we used a set of hotter champion N63DR plugs as warm up plugs. Our race plugs were N57DR. The thought was that the hotter plug would bring the engine up to temperature quicker during the warm up because of the hotter tip temperature. Eventually we stopped doing that (for cost reasons and limited benefits) and our warm up plugs eventually became what Roo described above.

58

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: February 26, 2017, 03:29:52 PM »

Note that I edited my original post! Before you crank the motor to start it, fuel needs to be ON. Also, if you have aluminum blower studs do not over tighten them or they will crack. Also leave the blower belt a little loose when the engine is cold. Set the final blower belt tension when the engine is fully warmed up. Good luck

59

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: February 26, 2017, 12:16:29 PM »

I recommend doing things differently than you listed. Check for oil pressure in the pits with the spark plugs out of it. Leave the mag off and the fuel shut off and crank the motor. That way you will not kill your batteries.
There are variations but here is what I do

To start  it...
Mag off, fuel on.
Open butterflies and squirt Alcohol into/past butterflies
shut butterflies
crank motor for about 2 seconds and turn on the mag.
As motor starts keep squirting alky into the injector until it runs on it's own. You can use gas if it is colder out. If you are priming with alky you can squirt in a lot of volume. The volume that you are putting in is small compared to what the nozzles will deliver.
Watch for oil pressure and any leaks. Keep track of the head temperature and idle speed

To shut it off...
Close fuel
engine rpm will come up and just as it starts to come back down, kill the mag.

If you are starting it for the very first time. I would leave the fuel off and just see if it fires smoothly on the primer first. That way you can tell if there are any ignition or timing issues.

Good luck!

60

Events / Re: 2017 March Meet Auto Club Famoso

« on: February 19, 2017, 03:04:04 PM »

Got a text from Brian that says "yes we are"