256
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Happy Thanksgiving Everyone
« on: November 22, 2018, 06:49:22 AM »
Thanks, You too Matt.
FEDs Forever!
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
257
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Throttle Linkage/Cable Help...Ideas??
« on: November 20, 2018, 08:14:52 AM »
Countin Carbs,
I faced a nearly identical situatrion when restoring my Logghe car (except, being a Ford everything is symmetrically opposite on the engine) and I chose your PLAN B.
I'm sorry I do not have a better pic.
Gas pedal on the right, barely visible behind the red shield mounted off the lower frame rail. You see the mandated throttle return toe loop on the pedal.
Then through a couple of bellhousing mounted bell cranks with Heim jointed links to a short (yellow) cable out the top of the body work just behind the block plate. The yellow cable is actually just a piece of nylon air line with a piece of stainless steel welding wire inside it, threaded on each end for small heim ends. I carry a spare stainless wire with me but it has never broken. Then to a common intermediate shaft with additional adjustable Heim jointed links for each carb which in my case are sideways mounted.
Whew. When I was done I counted 138 separate pieces needed to make up the linkage. But it works well. Good luck with your project.
I faced a nearly identical situatrion when restoring my Logghe car (except, being a Ford everything is symmetrically opposite on the engine) and I chose your PLAN B.
I'm sorry I do not have a better pic.
Gas pedal on the right, barely visible behind the red shield mounted off the lower frame rail. You see the mandated throttle return toe loop on the pedal.
Then through a couple of bellhousing mounted bell cranks with Heim jointed links to a short (yellow) cable out the top of the body work just behind the block plate. The yellow cable is actually just a piece of nylon air line with a piece of stainless steel welding wire inside it, threaded on each end for small heim ends. I carry a spare stainless wire with me but it has never broken. Then to a common intermediate shaft with additional adjustable Heim jointed links for each carb which in my case are sideways mounted.
Whew. When I was done I counted 138 separate pieces needed to make up the linkage. But it works well. Good luck with your project.
258
Roo Man's Room / Re: wheel backspacing
« on: November 19, 2018, 06:59:19 AM »
As rooman alluded to, the biggest hindrance to running them tight to the body/frame is from turning. My cars have the paint worn off from getting crossed up, where the tread is pulled inward against the bodywork. At five or six psi in the tires it doesn't take a lot of lateral G's to move the tires an additional inch inward.
259
Tow Vehicles / Re: Towing in the pits
« on: November 13, 2018, 07:51:01 AM »I use a strap, for the soft start up. No jerks.
Except one time my wife was towing me back and got delayed by the e.t. shack. She forgot the fact that she was towing me and took off in the tow vehicle (Econoline van) so quickly that the tow strap (7000# test strength) stretched out so much it snapped off at the hitch. It came back at me with the speed of a rifle shot, glanced off the front wing and put a huge dent in the fuel tank that is still there today. Good that it didn't hit my face shield or I may be blind today.
260
Tow Vehicles / Re: Towing in the pits
« on: November 12, 2018, 01:28:34 PM »
Lots of fast "Shootout" door cars around here use a bar about six feet long from the rear of race car to front of tow vehicle, be it golf cart, ATV, etc. I don't know if by "pushbar" you mean that or the rear bumper type found on old drag cars, when one used to be mandated.
One suggestion - if you do push, make sure there is still a towing socket device on the front of the car. That way if you have some sort of on-track incident the car can be towed off the track quickly by track personnel. Sometimes track workers are more concerned with keeping a green track than not doing damage to your disabled race car.
One suggestion - if you do push, make sure there is still a towing socket device on the front of the car. That way if you have some sort of on-track incident the car can be towed off the track quickly by track personnel. Sometimes track workers are more concerned with keeping a green track than not doing damage to your disabled race car.
261
Six Cylinder Drag Vehicles / Re: I saw a couple Of six cylinder Altereds and Thought I would share them
« on: November 09, 2018, 07:33:02 AM »
As promised - albeit a bit slow - here are some pics of cars I currently have under construction. One is a '49 Anglia and the other is a (bit off-topic) vintage replica champ car w/ crossflow headed 300 engine first fire up. Enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZQHHJLwwi8&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZQHHJLwwi8&feature=youtu.be
262
Six Cylinder Drag Vehicles / Re: Six Cylinder Race Engine.
« on: November 09, 2018, 07:02:13 AM »
There were several teams that fielded crossflow headed Ford 300 sixes. While they may not be as familiar to some as the earlier Wayne or Duggan heads for GM sixes they were and are still a dominant force in the drag racing classes that allowed the use of hybrid heads, specifically Competition Eliminator altereds and the Gas Coupe and Sedan Classes for sixes.
Some teams that immediately come to mind that used crossflow heads on their cars (and in some cases, still are using them) include:
Ambrose, Argenta, and Huettman
Bob Andrews
David Majors
Peto and Mudge
Bruce Sizemore
Sherm Sligh
Lou Olenyk
Joe Williamson
Marv Wiegand
and me.
Can anybody add to my list?
Some teams that immediately come to mind that used crossflow heads on their cars (and in some cases, still are using them) include:
Ambrose, Argenta, and Huettman
Bob Andrews
David Majors
Peto and Mudge
Bruce Sizemore
Sherm Sligh
Lou Olenyk
Joe Williamson
Marv Wiegand
and me.
Can anybody add to my list?
263
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: front end lift range and wheelie bar?
« on: November 01, 2018, 06:00:27 PM »
Interesting.
How do you loosen a slip joint?
How do you loosen a slip joint?
264
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: November 01, 2018, 08:47:36 AM »
a beauty!
One observation: Make the return spring on the brake handle strong enough to pull the brake lever forward quickly. Especially with that long handle and knob it will have a lot of inertia as the car jerks forward tending to hold the brakes on. The return spring on my Logghe car runs horizontal to the frame to get a good pull back when I hit the loud pedal. An easy mod
One observation: Make the return spring on the brake handle strong enough to pull the brake lever forward quickly. Especially with that long handle and knob it will have a lot of inertia as the car jerks forward tending to hold the brakes on. The return spring on my Logghe car runs horizontal to the frame to get a good pull back when I hit the loud pedal. An easy mod
265
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: New 6 cylinder Magneto: Super-Mag IV
« on: November 01, 2018, 08:39:00 AM »
Are they for even-fire (inline sixes) or odd fire (many V6s)?
266
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Howdy - prepping for SHRA 2019
« on: November 01, 2018, 08:32:09 AM »
Will you have to take it back to the inspector after paint to get the chassis cert sticker or did he just give it to you and let you apply it to the car later?
Just curious
Just curious
267
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: front end lift range and wheelie bar?
« on: November 01, 2018, 08:26:32 AM »
wide,
I have found that more important than how high it lifts is how soon it lifts them. Getting all the weight on the rear tires by lifting the front is good unless you lift the wheels out of the beams before rolling out, inducing a red light. Maybe not so important on a .4 Pro Tree but I battled this phenomena all summer on a full tree. I think the short answer to your question would be "a few inches, plus or minus a few inches, as long as your car stays straight." And hooked up
I have found that more important than how high it lifts is how soon it lifts them. Getting all the weight on the rear tires by lifting the front is good unless you lift the wheels out of the beams before rolling out, inducing a red light. Maybe not so important on a .4 Pro Tree but I battled this phenomena all summer on a full tree. I think the short answer to your question would be "a few inches, plus or minus a few inches, as long as your car stays straight." And hooked up
268
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: looking for ideas
« on: October 27, 2018, 07:49:19 PM »
curly, I think you meant to say it had to have all the weight on the rear wheels.
269
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: trans cooler heat
« on: October 10, 2018, 06:43:48 AM »
Yes - I think one is useful for bracket racing.
No - I do not think it should be inside the cockpit.
No - I do not think it should be inside the cockpit.
270
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Roll out time
« on: October 07, 2018, 10:47:58 AM »
You are right Jon, on both counts - it is not easy to transition a car from .4 pro to a .5 pro or full - AND - pulling the front tires can be problematic, especially an an altered with a relatively short wheelbase.
This summer I battled the pulling the front wheels issue. I'd have a cluster of lights (w/ delay box) between .000 and .020 then - BAM! - I'd get a -.020 red light. I concluded I was pulling the tires out of the beams, and tried fixing it with tire pressure and shock adjustment changes - at both ends of the car with little success. I finally, reluctantly, made a ladder bar change - moving the IC further out. I'm getting closer to a solution but think there's still more chassis tuning needed to get to optimum.
RE: Going from a .4 tree to a .5 tree
Before I had a delay box (or at no-box races) when leaving off a .5 tree try double-counting the lights on the tree. That is to say, count down each light to yourself "two-one, two-one, two-one" and release the brake on the "...one". That will keep you green without any car changes.
I've even tried "three-two-one, three-two-one, three-two-one" or "three-two-one, three-two-one, three-two-one" to finesse the tree a little closer, breaking each bulb up into smaller and smaller increments. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Good luck with your ride.
This summer I battled the pulling the front wheels issue. I'd have a cluster of lights (w/ delay box) between .000 and .020 then - BAM! - I'd get a -.020 red light. I concluded I was pulling the tires out of the beams, and tried fixing it with tire pressure and shock adjustment changes - at both ends of the car with little success. I finally, reluctantly, made a ladder bar change - moving the IC further out. I'm getting closer to a solution but think there's still more chassis tuning needed to get to optimum.
RE: Going from a .4 tree to a .5 tree
Before I had a delay box (or at no-box races) when leaving off a .5 tree try double-counting the lights on the tree. That is to say, count down each light to yourself "two-one, two-one, two-one" and release the brake on the "...one". That will keep you green without any car changes.
I've even tried "three-two-one, three-two-one, three-two-one" or "three-two-one, three-two-one, three-two-one" to finesse the tree a little closer, breaking each bulb up into smaller and smaller increments. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Good luck with your ride.