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Messages - L79_Acadian

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31
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: October 21, 2014, 09:58:37 AM »
 Hi Keith (Rooman),
 For what I paid for Worms chassis, I couldn't buy the Chromoly tubing up here in Canada. That's all I bought from John. The front axle is a Mark Williams piece , the steering box and spindles are from Strange,parts came from S&W race cars, and the Chassis Shop. Why would I buy something from Worm when I can buy the same piece from somebody else for less money. I have emailed Worm for two decals to put on the car, giving credit when credit is due, but after numerous attempts, John has never replied to me. Maybe because I haven't bought anything else from him, who knows? That's why I put a full body on the car, to hide that front end mounting system, thus disguising who actually made the car.
I have a firewall in front of my feet, and a full floor, sealing out the elements, like a door car.
 Enough of a rant for now,
        Roger

32
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 30, 2014, 08:23:26 PM »
 Paul, I sold the Acadian. It was a 66 L79 Acadian Invader,2 door sedan. Numbers matching, with a 3 on the tree and a open 12 bolt with 3.08 gears.
  Roger

33
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 29, 2014, 08:44:30 PM »
 Yes Keith, I hade the body, from 5002 aluminum and the car has a firewall in front of my feet and a full floor.
  All I purchased from Worm is the basic, unwelded chassis that was tacked together. Everything else came from many different places, Mark Williams, S&W, Chassis Shop, Good Vibrations, Jegs, Summit, etc.
  Roger.
 Ps, there is a reason I put a full body on the car....................................................

34
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 29, 2014, 08:32:39 PM »
 My car wasn't welded with a Harbour freight welder. I have a Linde 250 amp square wave with a stainless chiller.Ive been welding for 30 plus years, and this isn't my first car either. Here are some pictures of the other project that you should be able to see. Oh and it has a 8 point,tig welded cage too. I wonder how many people on this forum, who are very critical of others, actually build their own cars? I received the chassis tacked together ( it was cheaper than buying the tubing up here) . I welded the chassis, made the seat, body, narrowed the 9",put the glide together, and after the block was machined, put the motor together.
  Cheers,
         Roger

35
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 29, 2014, 12:58:41 PM »
Its a 160" car. The chassis is from Worm at CenPen speed shop

36
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 29, 2014, 10:51:48 AM »
resized pictures

37
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 29, 2014, 09:45:26 AM »
 Ok a few pictures of the car as it is today. I also included a few pictures of the other project,as soon as I resize them,so they will upload
  Roger

38
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: dragster weight
« on: September 29, 2014, 04:59:29 AM »
  I haven't had it out yet. I did have it running, and tried the transmission while up on stands. I will have to wait until next spring I guess. I am trying to finish my other car this year also.
  Roger

39
Front Engine Dragsters / dragster weight
« on: September 28, 2014, 01:36:44 PM »
 Well I went to weight the dragster yesterday. Simple right, trailer it over to the weight scales at the corner truck stop, push the car up onto the scales and get the weight. Wrong, so I had to take the truck, trailer and car over the scales, Then go unload the car, and go over the scales again, Subtract the second weight from the first, gives the dragster weight. Anyway, my WORM dragster with a small block Chev, powerglide, ready to race minus me and 2 gallons of methanol, 1220 lbs. Lighter than I thought.
  Roger

40
 I did this sketch to try and better explain how I keep the steering shaft on in my dragster. I feel that by drilling a steering shaft, it weakens it.
 As you can see, the steering shaft cant go anywhere because the welded collar, presses against the "bearing tube" that is welded to a plate. This plate is intern bolted to a couple of tabs, welded to the cross tube in the chassis( plate would be on the left side of the mounting plate in this drawing).
 To get the steering shaft out, I first unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the :bearing in, then pull the steering shaft towards the back of the car.
  You could replace the welded collar with a 2 piece, "split collar" from a industrial supply house. These collars are made to clam on whatever size shaft you buy the collar for.
 Hope this helps
  Roger

41
Hi, I didn't want to drill the shaft in the box, so I made a small collar, and installed it onto the steering shaft up against the mount for the steering shaft bearing. The bearing bolts in to the cross tube that supports it bearing.The collar keeps the steering shaft from coming out because it is against the bearing. Look at the picture,(up above the tranny output, right above the bolt ) you can see the collar welded to the steering shaft, keeping it engaged onto the splined input shaft on the steering box.
 Hope this helps,
   Roger
 You could also use a split collar (industrial supply place) for the diameter of your steering shaft, if you don't want to weld to your steering shaft.

42
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Help with stack injection
« on: June 03, 2014, 08:49:57 AM »
Update, well today I had the motor running on Alcohol for about 30 seconds. I think it was running, because I had poured alcohol down the line from the barrel valve to the shut off. I took the pump off, checked the rotation, and its correct. Then I put a drill on the pump, spun the drill in reverse(engine mounted pump), and the pump put fuel out of the line as its supposed to ( I unhooked the line from the pump to the barrel valve). So that tells me the pump is working as its supposed to. I think part of the problem is the starter, its a gear reduction, and I don't think it spins fast enough. Tomorrow I'm going to check all the pill and bypass holders again, to make sure they are not leaking, or dirty. The tank is in the front of the car, lower than the engine, but with a dragster that's the only place for it.
  Thanks guys,
      Roger :-\

43
Spud Miller's Cave / Help with stack injection
« on: June 02, 2014, 08:15:24 AM »
 Hello again,
 Well I put the oil and plugs into the motor that was recommended to me on the forum, thanks. Now the problem is, if I squirt some gas down each stack, roll the motor over with the mag on, it'll fire. But I cant seem to get the Alcohol up to the pump or barrel valve. I've poured alcohol down the line from the pump back to the tank, and even poured some into the line from the pump to the barrel valve, still nothing. Many years ago I had a blown,injected on alcohol small block Chev, and I seem to remember that the motor fire on gas and almost right away the alcohol was up to the valve and into the motor.
 Is there a special way to "prime" the pump on the motor? Oh and I just received the pump and the injection back from Hilborn, being flowed and rebuilt.
  Thanks again guys,
         Roger

44
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: stupid question?
« on: May 28, 2014, 06:55:27 AM »
Thank guys. Got the parts last nights

45
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: a few questions
« on: May 28, 2014, 06:51:39 AM »
Thanks guys,got the oil and the.plugs yestetday. One step closer to the track

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