FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: Duster360! on September 03, 2019, 10:38:54 AM
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Hi guys, new to front engine dragsters but long time onlooker. I’m looking to jump in and build a fed by myself and see what I can do. There’s a couple things that will be required. I am looking to build this in a standard 15 foot garage so wheelbase is determined by that, thinking 145-155 with removable bars. Second either a sb or bb Chevy but must be roots blown either carb or mechanical injection alky with cooling system as I want to make this a really consistent bracket car. Most likely will run a shortened power glide but I don’t have anything yet. So looking for ideas and input on which engine and why, trans and converter gearing and tire size ? Which would you pick and why for ultimate bracket car? Also can anybody teach me a little about front end design and reasoning. I’ve seen many done differently with steering right to the spindle or bell crank, different locations of radios rods, one or two rods and different torsion arm mounting location. Thanks !
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call SW race cars and order there fed blue prints, they are very detailed, think they cost 100.00 there prints are multple sheets not just 1 big print, alot of info
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Neil and Parks have a set for sale also. Frank and Scott both can be get source for info,not to mention almost every part you may need or want.
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Thanks, I’ll check in with those. Any ideas on input on as far as which power plant and why it would be better for my goal?
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How fast do you want to go?
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Really not to caught up on it, figuring any way I go as long as it’s blown I should be happy with it. Anything low 8s to low 7s but needs to be reliable and good for bracket racing
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A low 7 second 145-155” WB FED would be a wild little car! I know nothing about what it would take to make a short FED but if I did I would use a wide front axle and a torsion bar just for the fact it would look cool! You could build a 350” blown SBC with a 6-71 bug catcher and a Vertex mag and run however hard you want to run it.
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Have one for sale on the east coast. All the good parts, for 1/3 cost of build. Inj sbc been 7.80. Race next week. 908-406-6601 Please lv message. thanks.
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car can be longer than garage just go corner to corner.How do I know this?225" car in 20' garage. add in extra for 30 over nose and the cage out back. Warning it means about 5 million trips stepping over car.LOL As for power plant.Plenty SBC running in 7's with blower.Biggest thing with bracket deal will be questionable track prep and it happens more than not it seems.Keep power where it will go snow covered track and you will e upsetting lts of RED guys.
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If I make ramps for the nose raising it up will give a little more space too right? I like the idea of a sbc but still water in block and heads for total control over temp even round robin. Not sure if it’s totally required but would like to drive car up and back . What gear and tire would you guys recommend for blown sbc?
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...Keep power where it will go snow covered track and you will e upsetting lts of RED guys...
That is why I run 2.47 rear gears in my truckster. It will hook in a slime-covered mudslide.
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we went with 160", stock length powerglide coupler no driveshaft wide front end and tall rear tires (33") goes straight handles well even on no prep street races(towns allow clubs to run drags once a year) don't have a blower na sbc 406" on alky water in heads drive back to pits
good luck, have fun!
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If you are limiting it to 150 inches or so then I would say drop the idea of a front engine dragster and go with an altered roadster. You can make a good altered really work but I think it would be difficult to make a 150 inch dragster work in the 7's. Not impossible but would be a pain. Buy or build a Spitzer type design and it would work.
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Altereds are/can for fat drivers (250+) if you are below , then a dragster will be fine just make sure inside the shoulder hoop is 19.5". Nothing wrong with 150" just that the front axle needs to be wider for steering control
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I’m not to big, 5-5 170, what’s the reason for shoulder hoop width?
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I’m not to big, 5-5 170, what’s the reason for shoulder hoop width?
So that you will be comfortable in the car. I know that some older cars are as narrow as 18" but they were usually direct drive and now you need to have enough room to shift etc. My standard chassis is 20" inside the hoop as most of my customers wear a -15 firesuit. Also it is a good idea to use a double bend shoulder hoop (straight section in the middle) as that avoids having your shoulders pushed forward which happens with the big radius single bend hoop.
Roo
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Roo,
Just because you are a runt, does not mean everyone is, A small framed person can be fitted into a large car, a large driver can not be stuffed into a small car
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Concerning the length.
I have seen more than one older city garage adapted to the car by building out a doghouse on the backside.
Dog house was just tall and wide enough for the front end to go through
First time I ever saw one was when REDs came about.
I knew the car. When I drove up to his place the garage looked waaay short.
Yup, I looked outside and then inside.
Remember the old bugs bunny cartoon with the Arabian tent. Same deal. Little tent outside, palace inside.
The fellow built the dog house because zoning and property taxes for a garage add on was an impossible barrier.
With the dog house he mentioned that zoning never sees it.
I looked out back and true, he had camouflaged it by making it look like a real dog house.
Different siding and shingles than the garage.
Even painted a black hole on one end to look like an entrance.
You had to look twice to realize it was fake.
I have also seen 2 piece diggers. Even rear engine versions. Give that some thought.
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If he wants a Buck-Fifty car, let him build one, built correctly--- they work just fine. Scrap any notion of building a 2-piece chassis,
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138" mid 8's consistently never a wiggle
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I’m not to big, 5-5 170, what’s the reason for shoulder hoop width?
Most cars today are built with the shoulder hoops (21" centers) 19.5 inside, older chassis were made ( 19" centers) 17.5" inside width. Everything is bigger now because of the drivers safety equipment(firesuits and helmets) which adds bulk to your body, If a HANS is required, a wider chassis is easier to get out of. Even the thinnest of shifters take up room which makes a tight car even tighter. Dragster's are very restrictive and you have to roll your shoulders to climb out, you will be surprised what an extra 1.5" means>
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I’m not to big, 5-5 170, what’s the reason for shoulder hoop width?
Build it as big and wide as you can, you can always use extra padding to raise you up but if cage is too small you can not ever sell it unless they are smaller than you. I am 5'11" and I built my dragster to fit anyone up to 6'3" or maybe more. If you are 5'5" and you build it to only fit you then you would never be able to give the car away. And you need room for padding, helmet clearance.
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Short garage, long car? Make the chassis a 2 piece unit. My pervious car was a 2 piece chassis that worked and ran great. Never took it apart but the original owner did. The first photo shows the car backed into the trailer on the left and the front half of the chassis is suspended above it. His cackle-fest dragster is on the right with the front axle and wheel hanging above it. And this is all in a 20 foot trailer:) A blown engine like you're are wanting to install will work better and be more consistent in a longer car as opposed to a shorter car. Just another thought.
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A blown engine like you're are wanting to install will work better and be more consistent in a longer car as opposed to a shorter car. Just another thought.
Not true